FROM THE COLLECTION
OF COOKERY BOOKS
FORMED BY
JOHN HODGKIN, F.L.S.
DOMESTIC COOKERY
Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2015
https://archive.org/details/b22024682
Thanks, ray Lord for your venison, for finer or fatter.
Never rang'd in a forest, or smok'd in a platter
.»***• **'•.
EUNJ>£ £1'S
When all the meat w» * on the table.
What man of Knife. or teeth vni able.
To stay to be entreat»»iL
S"~./ Sar*tifi.
Edinburgh, thomas nelson.
NEW SYSTEM
OF
DOMESTIC COOKERY
formrd upon
PRINCIPLES OF ECONOMY,
a.vd adapted to the use of private
families.
53)) a fLcrtJjj,
WITH MANY NEW RECEIPTS, AND EMBELLISHED
WITH THIRTY-SIX ENGRAVINGS.
EDINBURGH: THOMAS NELSON.
M.D.CCCXLIII.
H.& J. Piilans, Printers, Edinburgh
ADVERTISEMENT.
As the following directions were intended for the
conduct of the families of the Authoress’s own daugh-
ters, and for the arrangement of their table, so as to
unite a good figure with proper economy, she has
avoided all excessive luxury, such as essence of ham,
and that wasteful expenditure of large quantities of
meat for gravy, which so greatly contributes to keep up
the price, and is no less injurious to those who eat, than
to those whose penury obliges them to abstain. Many
receipts are given for things, which being in daily use,
the mode of preparing them may be supposed too well
known to require a place in a cookery-book ; yet how
rarely do we meet with fine melted butter, good toast
and water, or well-made coffee ! She makes no apology
for minuteness in some articles, or for leaving others
unnoticed, because she does not write for professed
cooks. This little work would have been a treasure to
herself when she first set out in life, and she therefore
hopes it may prove useful to others. In that expecta-
tion it is given to the Public ; and as she will receive
from it no emolument, so she trusts it will escape with-
out censure.
INDEX.
A.
ACIDS, stains caused by, in
linen, various ways of taking
out, 323
Adulterations in the making of
bread, how to detect, 205
Ale, very lifce Welsh, to brew,
207
, or strong beer, to brew,
208
, to refine, 270
Almond puddings, 149
, baked, 149
, small, 149
, custard, 179
, cheesecakes, 179
, two other ways, 180
, cream, 208
Amber pudding, a very fine
one, 150
American flour, management
of, in making bread, 204
Anchovies, to choose, 133
, to keep them when
the liquor dries, 133
, sauce, 129
• , toast, 223
, another way,
223
, essence of, 133
, to make sprats
taste like anchovies, 134
Apple-water , for the sick, 311
Apples, to prepare them for
putt's, 175
, dried, 236
• ■, dumplings or pudding,
163
, trifle, 2<'5
■ , fool, 205
Apple marmalade, 234
jelly to serve to table,
214 ; another, 214
, and rice, souffle of, 200
■ , jelly for preserving
apricots, or for any sort of
sweetmeats, 235
, or gooseberry trifle, 205
, pie, 169
, hot, 170
pudding, baked, 150
putt's, 175
sauce for goose and
roast pork, 126
, to scald codlins, 214
, to keep codlins for se-
veral months, 245
, stewed golden pippins,
214
, red apples in jelly, 235
Apricots, in brandy, 227
— -, to dry in half, 228
- — — — , a beautiful preserve
of apricots, 226
, topteservegTeen,227
, to preserve in jelly,
227
, apple jelly
for this purpose, 235
, cheese, 228
, pudding, ah excellent
one, 160
, dumplings, 163
Arrow-root jelly, for the sick,
302
Artichokes, to dress, 184
, bottoms, 184
, Jerusalem, 184
bottoms, to keep for
1 the winter, 192
Vtll
INDEX,
Articles in season in the differ-
ent months, lists of them,
333 to 33(i
Asses' milk, 308
, artificial, three
ways of making, 308
B.
Bacon, to choose, 20
, excellent, 74
■, the manner of curing
Wiltshire bacon, 75
Bamboo, English, 94
Barberries, to prepare for tart-
lets, 226
■, in bunches, 226
• , drops, 241
Barley-water, 310 ; another
way, 310
gruel, 309
Batter pudding, 154
with meat, 155
Bean (green) pudding, 160
Beans, to dress, 1!!6
• , fricasseed Windsor,
186
, French, 186
Bechamel, or white sauce, 119
Beef, to choose, 25
— — ■, to keep, 33
, to salt for eating imme-
diately, 34
• , to salt red ; which is ex-
tremely good to eat fresh
from the pickle, or to hang
to dry, 34
, the Dutch way to salt, 35
, a-la-mode, 35 "
, a fricandeau of, 36
• , stewed rump of. 36
, another way, 37
, rump roasted, 36
, stewed brisket, 37
, pressed beef, 38
, hunter's beef, 38
, an excellent mode of
dressing, 39
, collared, 39
Bee/steaks, to dress, 39
, and oyster sauce,
40
, Staffordshire, 40
j , Italian, 40
collop, 40
palates, 41
cakes for side-dish or
dressed meat, 41
, potted, two ways, 41
, to dress the inside of a
cold Sirloin, 42
' — — , fricassee of cold roast
beef, 42
, to dress cold beef that
has not been done enough,
called beef olives, 42
, to dress the same called
Sanders, 42
, to dress the same, called
Cecils, 43
, minced, 43 '
, hashed, 43
■ , a-la-vingrette, 43
, round of beef, 44
, rolled, that equals hare,
44
, heart, 46
steak pie, 40
pudding, 157
, baked, 157
, a pickle for beef, that
will keep for years, 73
pasty to eat as well as
venison, 177
patties, or podovies, 174
broth, 300
tea, 301
Beer, (strong) to brew, 268
, (table) excellent, 269
, to refine, 270
Beet-root, different ways of
using, 190
, to preserve to cat
in the winter, 192
Benton sauce, for hot or cold
roast beef, 126
tea-cakes, 259 ; another
sort, as biscuits, 259 ; another
sort, 259
INDEX
IX
Bills op Fare, Ac. 333 to
336
Birds, a very economical way
of potting, 99
Biscuit, orange, 231
cake, 259
of fruit, 239
, hard, 21i7
, plain and very crisp,
2(17
Black-caps, two ways of mak-
ing, 215
pudding, 70
, two other j
ways, 70
Blacking for shoes, fine, 333
Blanching a rabbit, fowl, & c.
explained, 104
Blanc-mange, or Blamange,
204
Boards, to give them a beauti-
ful appearance, 330
, to extract oil from,
330
Backings, 160
Boerlmave’s (Dr.) sweet butter-
milk, 312
Boiling meat, observations on,
28
Braising explained, 91
chickens braised, 93
Brandy pudding, 101
cream, 207
, apricots or peaches in
brandy, 227
, cherries in brandy,
234
Brawn, to choose, 27
, souse for, 70
, mock, 69
sauce, 126
Bread, to make, 263
, Rev. Mr Hagget’s eco-
nomical bread, 264
, management of Ameri-
can flour, 264
’, rice and wheat bread,
264
, French bread, 265
. to discover whether
brpad has been adulterated
with whitening or chalk, 265
Bread, to detect bones, jalap,
ashes, &c. in bread, 265
cake, common, 257
pudding, boiled, 153
, another, and
richer, 153
puddings, little, 152
and butter pudding, 149
, brown bread pudding,
153
, brown bread ice, 217
Brentford rolls, 266
Brewery (Home) 267 to 280
Brocoli, to dress, 186
Broth. A quick made broth
for the sick, 299
, a clear one, that will
keep long, 299
, a very supporting one,
against any kind of weak-
ness, 300
, of beef, mutton, and
veal, 300
Other broths are under differ-
ent names; as Chicken broth,
&c.
Brown-bread pudding, 153
ice, 217
Browning to colour and fla-
vour made dishes, 136
Bubble and squeak, 48
Bun, a good plain one, 260
, richer ones, 261
Burnt cream, two ways, 206
Butter, to clarify for potted
things, 99
, to melt, 130
, to serve as a little dish,
222
, orange butter, 216
Observations respecting
it in the dairy, 287
, to make, 287
, to preserve, 288
, to preserve it in pans
for winter use. 288
, to manage cream for
whey-butter. 289
X
INDEX.
Butter, to choose it at market,
290
Buttered rice, 200
lobsters, 21
— — prawns and shrimps,
Buttermilk, 2fl9
, witii bread or with-
out, for the sick, 312
-, Dr. Boerhaave’s
sweet buttermilk, 3 2
pudding, 161
C.
Cabbages (red) to pickle, 180
(red) to stew, 186;
two other ways, 186
, small, to keep for
the winter, 192
Cakes, dtc. 250 to 262
• , observations on mak.
ing and baking cakes, 250
, iceing for cakes, 252
, to ice a very large cake,
252
■ ■, a common cake, 252
— , a very
good one, 252
, an excellent cake, 252
, a very fine one, 253
■, rout drop-cakes, 251
, flat cakes that will keep
long in the house good, 254
, little white cakes, 254
, little short cakes, 254
, plum-cake, 254; ano-
ther way, 254
, very good common
plum-cakes, 255
, little ones, to
keep long, 250
, a good pound cake, 256
. a cheap seed-cake, 256 ;
another, 257
— common bread-cake,
— — , queen-cakes ; two ways
of making, 257
, Shrewsbury cakes, 25"
Cakes, rice cake; two ways
of making, 258
, Tonbridge cakes, 258
, water-cakes, 258
, sponge-cakes, 258 ; ano-
ther, without butter, 259
, tea-cakes, 259
• , Benton tea-cakes, 259;
as biscuits, 259 ; another
sort, 259
, biscuit-cake, 259
, Yorksh ire-cake, 267
Cake-trifle, 205
Cale (sea) 291
Calf’s-feet broth ; two ways,
3U0
jelly, 212
, another sort,
212
Calf s-head, to boil, 56
, to hash, 56
, another way, 57
, fricasseed, 28
, to collar, 58
, a cheaper way. 59;
another, 59 ; another, 60
Calfs-hmd pie, 141
Calf’s-liver, broiled, 60
, roasted, 60
, liver and lights, to dress,
60
Calico furniture, to clean when
taken down for the summer,
326
Camp vinegar, 130
To Candy any sort of fruit,
226
Capers, to keep, 200
, an excellent substi-
tute for caper-sauce, 128
, nasturtions pickled
for, 151
Capillaire, 309
Carmel, cover for sweetmeats.
211
Carp, to choose, 1
, boiled, 12
, stewed, 12
, (like lamprey), 12
, baked, 13
INDEX.
XI
Carpets, to dust, 305
, to dean, 305
Carrier sauce for mutton, 127
Can-ole of rice, 21!)
Carrots , to boil, 189
, to stew, 189
• , to preserve, to e ;t
in the winter, 192
, pudding, 160
, soup, 112
Casserole, or rice-edging for a
curtie or fricassee, 137
Cast-iron, to clean stoves of,
332
■ , another
way, 322
Caudle for the sick, three ways
of making, 304
•, a flour-caudle,
good for babies who have
weak stomachs, 305
Caudle, rice, 305 ; another, 305 ,
, cold, 305
, to give away to the
poor sick, and lying in, 304
Cauliflowers, to boil, 185
• •, in white sauce,
185
■ , to dress with
Parmesan, 185
Caveach, pickled mackerel so
called, 14
Cecils, 42
Celery, to stew, 185
Cement, for broken china, 321
, Roman, for out-
side plastering of brick- work,
322
Chantilly cake, 205
Chardoons, various ways of
dressing, 190
, to stew, 190
Charlotte, a, 164
Cheese, to pot, 222
, roast, to come up af-
ter dinner, 222
, Welch rabbit, 223
, toast, 223
, damson cheese, 238
— , muscle-plum cheese,
239
Cheese is also under different
names; as Cream cheese,
Apricot cheese, &c.
, Observations respect-
ing it in the dairy, 282
, to prepare rennet to
turn the milk ; two ways,
283
, to make cheese, 284
, to preserve it sound,
285
, to make sage cheese,
285
, cream cheese, 285
, rush-cream cheese,
286
Cheesecakes, light paste for, 1 71
- — ■ way of making
them, 179
, a plainer sort, 180
, another way, 180
, lemon, 180
, another,
180
-, orange, 180
, a very
fine crust for them, when to
be particularly nice, 168
, potatoe, 181
, almond, 181
, two other ways,
181
Cheese-Puffs, 176
Cherry-pie, 170
Cherries, to keep (like cur-
rants), 244
, in brandy, 234
, to dry cherries with
sugars, 233
, with-
out sugar, 233
, to dry them the best
way, 233
, jam, 234
, to preserve, 244
Chickens, to pot with ham, 53
, scallops of cold, 54
, fricassee of, 91
, to pull chickens, 92
, another way,
92
xn
INDEX,
Chickens, to braise chickens,
93
. , chicken-currie,
• , ano-
ther, more easily made, 93
, chicken and parsley
pie, 141
■ , chicken pie, 143
• raised crust for, 147
, broth, 301
• .panada, for the sick,
303
, to fatten chickens
in four or five days, 293
Chimney-pieces, stone, to
blacken the fronts of, 331
China, broken, a cement for, -
321
China-chUo, 82
• orange juice, good to
mix with water for fevers,
248
Chocolate, to prepare, 307
, cream, 209
Chopped hands, paste for, 319
lips, ointment for,
320
Clary wine, 275
Cocoa, patent, 307
Clouted cream, 216
Cockle ketchup, 199
Cod, to choose, 1
• , observations on buy-
ing and dressing, 9
, head and shoulders, 9
• , crimp, 10
, sounds boiled, lo
, broiled, 10
, dressed to look
like small chickens, 10
• , sounds ragout, 10
• , currie of cod, 10
, salt, to dress, 11
, pie, 138
Codlins, to keep for several
months, 245
■ , to scald, 214
, tart, 172
, cream, 209
, to make, 306
Coffee, cream, mueh admir-
ed, 209
, milk, 306
College (New) puddings, 152
Colouring for soups or gravies,
106
, to stain jellies,
ices, or cakes, 218
Collops, mutton, 59
, veal collops, 53
, another way, 54
, Scotch collops, 56
■, veal, dressed quick.
54
Cookery for the sick, 299
, for the poor, 313
to 316
Cough, extract of malt for, 270
Cow-heels, various ways of
dressing, 47
, jelly of, useful
for soups and gravies, 105
Cows, management of, 280
Cowslip-mead, 27
Crabs, to choose, 3
.hot, 22
, dressed, cold, 23
Crack-nuts, 260
Cracknels, 260
Cranberries, different ways of
dressing, 248
, jelly, 213
, and rice jelly, 21 4
Craster. Fish-sauce a-la cras-
ter, 128
Craw-fish, soup, 117
Crayfish in jelly, 22
Creaking of doors, how to pre-
vent, 333
Cream. A cream, 206
, an excellent one, 206
, burnt, two ways of
doing, 206
, sack, 207
, brandy, 207
, ratafia, two ways of
making, 207
, lemon, 207
, yellow lemon cream
without" cream, 208
I Nit EX.
xni
Omni, white lemon-cream,
21 it)
, imperial, 2<>H
, almond, 208
, snow, 208
, coffee-cream, much
admired, 20!)
, chocolate, 208
, codlin, 209
— , orange cream, an ex-
cellent one, 209
, raspberry, two ways
of making, 210
, spinach, 210
, pistachio, 210
, clouted cream, 218
, a froth to set on
cream , which looks and eats
well, 211
, ice creams, 217
, ratafia oeam, 217
, to manage cream
in the dairy for making
whey-butter, 289
, to scald, as in the
West of England, 289
, to keep, 290
■ , syrup of, 290
Cream-cheese, three ways of
making, 286 i
, rush-cream i
cheese, two ways of making
it, 286
Crickets, to destroy, 326
Crust, raised, for meat-pies or
fowls, 147
, for venison pasty, 1 67
, raised, for custards or
fruit, 168
, excellent short, 168
, another,
168; another, not sweet, but
rich, 168
a very fine one for or-
ange cheese-cakes, or sweet-
meats, when required to be
particularly nice, 168
• , for meat-pies or fowls,
&c. 147
, see also the article
Pasts
Cucumbers, to stew, 184
, another
way, 184
— , and onions
sliced, to pickle, 184
Cucumbers, to preserve them
green, 196
vinegar, 131
, to pickle young cu-
cumbers, 196
Cullis, or brown gravy, 119
Curd star, 204
Curds and cream, 203
, another
way, 203
, and whey, Caliino, as
in Italy, 290
■ — , puddings or puffs, 161
, pudding boiled, 162
Currants, to keep, 244
, dumplings, or
puddi ns, 163
, pie, 171
, and raspberry
pies, or tarts, 171
, jelly, red or
black, 234
, jam, black, red,
or white, 234
, sauce, the old, for
venison, 126
, white-currant shrub,
280
, water-ice, 217
, wine, 272
, another way, 272
, black-currant wine,
very fine, 272
Currie, rice boiled to eat with,
137
Custards, raised crusts for,
168
, cheap and excellent
ones, 178
, richer, 178
, baked, 179
, lemon, 179
, almond, 179
, a froth to set on
custard, which looks and
eats well, 211
XIV
INDEX,
Custard, pudding, 159
Cutlets, Maintenon, 53
• , another way 53
, other ways, 3
Cyder, to refine, 270
D.
Dairy, 280 to 290
Damsons, to keep (like cur-
rants) 244
• , to keep for win-
ter pies, 246 ; another way,
246; another, 246
, cheese, 238
, dumplings,
or pudding, 163
Davenport fowls, 90
Deeds (old) a wash to make
their writing legible, 325
Devonshire junket, 218
Dinners, general remarks con-
cerning, 333 to 336
Doors, to prevent from creak-
ing, 333
Drink, a very agreeable one
for the sick, ;i09
, a refreshing one in a
fever, 309
, two others, 309
■ , a most pleasant drink,
310
■ , draught for a cough,
310
Drops, lemon, 241
, barberry, 241
• , ginger, a good sto-
machic, 242
, peppermint, 242
, ratafia, 242
Ducks, to choose, 86
, to roast, 93
, to boil, 94
, to stew, 94
, to hash, 94
, wild, to dress, 100
, sauce for, 123
■ , pie, 144
Ducks, management of ducks
in the poultry-yard, 295
Duke of Cumberland's pud-
ding, 154
Dumplings, Oxford, 163
, suet, 163
, apple, 163
, currant, 163
, damson, 163
, yeast, or Suffolk,
163
Dun-birds, to dress, 100
Dunelm of cold veal or fowl, 57
Dutch flummery, 202
pudding or souster, 151
rice pudding, 151
sauce for meat or fish,
125
To Dye the linings of furni-
ture, &c. 324
gloves, 325
E.
Eels, to choose, 3
, spitchcock, 18
fried, 18
boiled, 18
broth, 18
for the sick, 301
, collared, 18
stewed (like lamprey), 19
soup, 1 16
pie, 138
Eggs, buttered, 223
— — , Scotch, 224
, to poach, 223
sauce, 124
wine for the sick, 313
, little eggs for turtles, 136
mince pies, 171
, different ways of prepar-
ing eggs for the sick, 303
to choose eggs at market,
and to preserve them, 294
Elder-wine, 274
, white, very much
like Frontiniac, 274
INDEX.
XV
English Bamboo, 194
wines, remarks on,
271
Essence of anchovies, 133
Eve's pudding, 153
Ex tract of malt for coughs, 270
F.
Family dinners, list of, 330,
cVc.
Feathers, care and manage-
ment of, 204
Fevers. China-orange juice, a
very useful thing to mix
with water in fevers, when
the fresh juice cannot be
had, 248
Firmity, Somersetshire, 203
Kish, 1 to 24
— — , how to choose, 1
— — , observations on dressing,
4
, to force, 135
pie, a remarkably fine
one, 139
gravy, strong, 120
sauce for fish-pies, 120
, jelly to cover cold fish,
121
sauce without butter, 128
sauce a-la-craster, 128
, a very fine fish-sauce, 127
Flannels, to make them keep
their colour, and not shrink,
324
Floating island, 202
another way,
202
Floor-cloths, directions respect-
ing them, 329
■ , to dean them,
329
Floors, to dust, 329
Flounders, to choose, 4
, to fry, 19
Flour, American ; manage-
ment of, in making bread,
204
Flummery, 202
, Dutch, 202
, rice, 203
Foot, gooseberry, 205
, apple, 205
, orange, 205
Forcemeat, to make, 134
for patties, balls, or
stuffing, 135
, ingredients for, 134
, to force meat or
fowls, 135
for cold savoury
pies, 135
, very fine force-
meat-balls for fish-soups, or
fish stewed on maigre days,
135
for turtle, 136
Forcing explained, 134
Fowls, to choose, 85
boiled, 89
boiled with rice, 89
roasted, 90
broiled, two ways, 90
, Davenport fowls, 90
-, a nice way to dress a
fowl for a small" dish, 90
, to force, 91
, to braise, 91
, fricassee of chickens,
91
, sauce for, 123
-, a good sauce for hiding
the bad colour of fowls, 122
, white sauce for fricas-
see of fowls, 122
, sauce for cold fowls,
123
— , mushroom sauce for
fowls, 123
— , lemon white sauce for
boiled fowls, 124
, to blanch, 104
, a dunelm of cold, 52
, to roast wild fowl, 100
, vingaret for cold fowl,
130
■, collops of cold chicken,
INDEX
XVI
Fowls, to pot chicken with
ham, 53
, management of fowls
in the poultry-yard, 201
■, to fatten them in four
or five days, 293
French-beans, to dress, 191
, to preserve to eat
in the winter, 191
French pie, 146
bread, 265
rolls, 266
Fricandeau of beef, ‘ 5
of veal, 54
, a cheaper,
but equally good one, 55 ;
another way, 55
Fricassee of fowls, rabbits, &c.
sauce for, 122
crust for, 147
. of parsnips, 190
Fritters, 165
, Spanish, 165
, potatoe, 166
, another way,
166
Froth, to set on cream, cus-
tard, or trifle, which looks
and eats well, 211
Fruit, to preserve for tarts or
family-deserts, 247
, raised cruits for, 168
, remark on using pre-
served fruit in pastry, 169
-, to preserve for winter
Frying herbs, the Staffordshire
dish" of frying herbs and li-
ver, 224
Furniture linings, todye them
of different colours, 324
calico to
use, 243
, to prepare for children,
a far more wholesome way
than iu pies and puddings,
216
, to green for preserving
or pickling, 225
-, to candy any sort of.
226
clean, when taken down for
the summer, 326
Furs, to preserve from moths,
324
G.
Gallino curds and whey, as in
Italy, 290
Gam k, &c. 85 to 104
, to choose, 85 to 87
, directions for dressing.
■, biscuits of, 239
stains, how to take them
out of linen, 323
Frying herbs, as dressed in
Staffordshire, 191
87
George pudding, 156
German light puddings or
puffs, 151
Giblets, to stew, 94
— 1 — soup, 107
pie, 145
, stewed giblets, 94
Gilding, to preserve and clean,
327
Ginger drops, a good sto-
machic, 242
wine, excellent, 273
■, another, 273
Gingerbread, 261
, another sort, 261
-, a good plain sort.
-, a good sort with-
261
out butter, 26l
Gloss, a fine one for oak wain-
scots, 323
Gloucester jelly for the sick,
302
Gloves, to dye them like York
tan, or Limerick, 325
, to dye white ones a
beautiful purple, 325
Golden Pippins stewed, 214
Geese, to choose, 86
INDEX.
XV||
Geese, to roast, 94
green-goose pie, 144
— , management of geese
in the poultry-yard, 295
Gooseberries, to keep, 245
• , another way,
245; another, 24G
trifle, 205
fool, 205
hops, 237
jam for tarts, 236
, another, 236
, white, 236
pudding, baked,
160
vinegar, 131
Granary, to preserve from in-
sects or weasels, 326
Grates, to clean the backs of,
332
Gravies, 115 to 121
■, general directions
respecting, 104
, colouring for, 106
, a clear brown stock
for gravy-soup or gravy, 106
soup, 106
, to draw gravy that
will keep a week, 118
, a clear gravy, 118
— — — , brown gravy or cullis,
, a rich gravy, 120
■ a gravy without
meat, 11 9
for a fowl, when
there is no meat to make it
of, 120
to make mutton eat
like venison, 120
■ , a strong fish gravy,
120 6 *
Grayline, to fry, 13
Green, to stain jellies, ices, or
cakes, 218
, to green fruits for pre-
serving or pickling, 225
Gieen sauce tor green-geese or
ducklings, 125
Green-gages, to preserve, 238
goose pie, 144
Ground-rice pudding, 163
milk, 308
Grouse, to dress, 100
Gruel, water, 309
barley, 309
Gudgeons, to choose, 3
Guinea fowl, to dress, 101
, management of
Guinea-hens in the poultry-
yard, 297
H.
Haddock, 15
, to dry, 15
, stuffing for, 15
Hagget, Rev. Mr., his econo-
mical bread, 264
Hair; an excellent water to
prevent it from falling off,
and to thicken it, 320
Halls, stone, how to clean, 306
Hams, to choose, 26
, to cure, 72
— , two other wavs
of curing them, 72
, another way,
that gives a high flavour, 72
— — — , a method of
giving a still higher flavour,
72
, a pickle for them, that
will keep for years, 73
— , to dress hams, 74
sauce, 127
Hangings, paper, to clean, 333
Hares, to choose, 87
, directions concerning,
101
, to roast, 102
, to prepare and keep,
101
, to jug an old hare, 102
— — — , broiledand hashed, 103
pic to eat cold, 146
, to pot, 103
6
xvm
INDEX.
Hare soup, 113
Uarrico of veal, 52
of mutton, 77
Harslet, 6!)
Hartshorn jelly, 213
Hay, green; to prevent it from
firing. 320
Heart, beef, 40
Hearths, (tile inner,) to clean,
332
• — , another
way, 332
Hens, to make them lay, 293
Herb pie, 147
, the Staffordshire dish of
frying-herbs and liver, 191
Herrings, to choose, 2
— , to smoke, 19
— , fried, 20
, broiled, 20
(red,) to dress, 20
• , potted, 20
, (like lobsters,)
21
, baked, 20
Hessian soup and ragout, 113
Hog's head, to make excellent
meat of, 00
cheeks, to dry, 08
ears, to force, 08
puddings, white, 71
lard, 71
Home-brewery, 207 to 280
Honey-comb, lemon, 219
water , to make, 320
Hops, gooseberry, 237
Hotch-potch, an excellent one,
81
-, another, 81
House-lamb steaks, white, 83
, brown, 83
Hungary water, to make, 320
Hunters' beef, 38
pudding, 158
I.
Jceinp for tarts, 171
• for cakes, 252
Ice, to ice a very large cake,
252
, how to prepare for iceing,
210
, ice waters, 217
, currant or
raspberry-water ice, 217
, brown bread ice, 2)7
creams, 21 7
colouring for staining ices,
218
Imperial, 277
cream, 203
Indian pickle, 193
Ink, black, to make, 321
, another
way, 321
Iron-moulds, to take them out
of linen, 323
stains, to take them out
of marble, 331
Irons, to preserve them from
rust, 331
, another way, 331
J.
Jams. Cherry jam, 234
, currant jam, red, black,
or white, 2 4
. gooseberry jam for tarts,
236
— , white,
230
, raspberry jam, 237
Jar panel pears, to preserve
most beautifully, 230
Jelly, a savoury one for pies
to eat cold, 121
to cover cold fish, 1 21
, calf's feet jelly, 212
, orange, 213
, hartshorn, 213
, cranberry, 213
, cranberry and rice jelly,
214
, apple, to serve at tahle,
two ways of making, 214
INDEX.
XIX
Jelly to rover meat or any re-
lishing pie, to be eaten cold,
121
— -• colourings to stain jellies,
, currant jelly, red or
black, 234
—7-, apple jelly, for preserv-
ing apricots or for any sort
of sweetmeats, 235
, red apples in jelly, 235
Jellies for the sick, 235
, Dr. Ratclill’s restorative
pork-jelly, 301
, shank jelly, 302
, arrow-root jelly, 302
, tapioca jelly, 302
, Gloucester jelly, 302
Other jellies are under the
names of the different prin-
cipal articles they are made
of; as Calf's feet jelly, &c.
Jerusalem artichokes, to dress,
J 'titled hare, 102
Junket, Devonshire, 218
Lamb, shoulder forced, with
sorrel sauce, 83
steaks, 83
, house lamb steaks,
white, 83
■ , brown,
83
cutlets with spinach, 84
head and hinge, 84
lamb’s fry, 84
sweetbreads, 84
Lambstones fricasseed, 84
-, Iricassee of them
and sweetbreads, another
way, 85
, a very nice dish, 85
Lamprey, to stew, as at Wor-
cester, 19
Lard, 71
Larks and ether small birds,
to dress, 98
Lavender-water, to make, 32
Laver, 91
Leek sou]>, Scotch, 113
and pilchard pie, 140
Lemons, to keep for puddings,
&c. 232
K.
Kebobbed mutton, 81
Ketchup, mushioom, 198
, another way, l1 18
, walnut, of the finest
sort, 199
cockle, 199
Kidney, veal, til
, mutton, 81
• pudding, 157
Kitchen pepper, 132
L.
Lamb, to choose, 26
• . leg, 82
• , fore quarter, 82
— - — , breast and cucumbers,
82
-, mince pies, 171
■> to preserve in jelly.
, cheesecake, 180
, another,
cream, 207
— , yellow, with-
out cream, 208
, white ditto, 208
custards, 179
drops, 241
honeycomb, 219
marmalade, 229
juice, to keep, 247
pickled lemons, 195
lemon pickle, 193
— pudding, an excellent
one, 150
puffs, 175
sauce, 127
white sauce for boiled
fowls or a fricasw ’ ■>»
INDEX.
XX
Lemon syrup, 311
water for the sick, 31 1
anil vinegar whey, 311
Lemonade, to be made a day
before wanted, 24!)
another way, 249
• * that has the flavour
and appearance of jelly, 249
for the sick, 312
Lent potatoes, 201
Light, or German puddings or
puffs, 151
Lights (calf’s) and liver, to
dress, (10
Linen, how to take stains of
fruit or acids out of. 323;
also iron-moulds and mildew,
323
Linings of furniture, to dye of
different colours, 324
List of different articles in sea-
son in each month, 333 to 336
Liver (calf’s) broiled, 60
roasted, 60
the Staffordshire dish of
frying herbs and liver, 191
sauce, 124
Lobsters, to choose, 3
• , to pot them, 20
, to pot another way,
21
stewed, as a very high
relish, 21
buttered, 21
, to roast, 22
, currie of them, 22
soup, excellent, 116
sauce, 129
sauce, another wav,
1*9
pie, 139
patties, 174
salad, 188
Jyindon syllabub, 218
Looking-glasses, to clean, 327
M.
Macaroni, as usually served. I
22 )
Macaroni, two other ways, 221
, dressed sweet, a
very nice dish of, 201
soup, 108
pudding, 159
Macaroons, 260
Mackerel, to choose, 2
boiled, 14
broiled, 14
collared, 14
potted, 14
(like lobsters,) 21
pickled, 14
pickled, called Ca-
veach, 14
pie, (like cod,) 138
Magnum bonum plums, 240
Mahogany, to give a fine co-
lour to, 328
, to take ink out of,
328
Maids, 12
Malt, extract of, for coughs,
270
Mangoes, melon, 195
Marble, to take stains out of,
331
— iron-stains, 331
Marmalade, orange, 228
, quince, 239
, lemon, 229
, transparent, 229
, apple. 234
Marrow bones, 47
Mead, sack, 276
cowslip, 277
Meat, 25 to 85
, to choose, 25 to 27
. observations on pur-
chasing, keeping, and diess-
ing, 27 to 31
, to keep meat hot, 31
Melon mangoes, 195
Melted butter, an essential ar-
ticle, rarely well done. 130
Mildew, to take itout of linen,
323
Milk, to keep in the dairy, 290
, rice and sago, 219
, coffee milk, 306
INDEX.
XXI
Milk, ground-rice milk, 31)11
, sago milk, 308
, asses, 308
porridge, 307
, French, 307
punch or verder, 279
Millet pudding, 159
Mince pie, 170
, without meat, 170
lemon, 1/1
egg, 171
patties resembling
mince-pies, 175
Mock-brawn, 09
^ turtle , 58
a cheaper way, 59
another, 59
another, 00
Moor-game, to pot, 99
Morels and truffles, useful to
thicken soups and sauces, 105
, how to
preserve them in the winter,
192
Mortar, Roman, for outside
plastering or brick-work, 322
Mu ffins, 67
Mulled wine, two ways, 306
Mullets, to choose, 3
, red, to dress, 1 4
Muscle-plum cheese, 239
Mushrooms, observations re-
specting, 187
, to dry, 132
• , an excellent way to
pickle, to preserve the fla-
vour, 198
• ketchup, 198
, another
way, 198
, to stew, 188
powder, 133
sauce, very fine for
fowls or rabbits, 123
Mustard, to make, 132
■ another way,
for immediate use, 132
Mutton, to choose, 20
, observations on keep-
ing and dressing, 75
Mutton, leg, 76
, neck, 76
, shoulder roasted, 76
, haunch, 76
, saddle, to roast, 77
, fillet braised, 77
— — — , harrico, 77
, to hash, 78
, shoulder, boiled with
oysters, 78
, breast, 78
, loin, 78
, rolled loin, 79
ham, 79
collops, 79
cutlets, in the Portu-
guese way, 80
steaks, 80
, steaks of mutton, or
lamb, and cucumbers, 80
steaks Maintenon, 80
• sausages, 80
rumps and kidney, 81
• , an excellent hotch-
potch, 81
, another, 81
kebobbed. 81
China chilo, 82
broth, Scotch, 105
pudding, 158
, another, 158
pasty, to eat as well as
venison, 177
N.
Nasturtions, to pickle for ca-
pers, 131
Nelson puddings, 153
New College puddings, 152
Norfolk punch, two ways, 279
Nuts (crack,) 260
O.
Oak-wainscot, fine, to give a
gloss to, 328
Oatmeal pudding, 151
xxu
INDEX.
Oil, how to extract from
boards, or stone, 330
Old Deeds, Charters, S/c., on
paper or parchment, when
the writing is obliterated or
sunk, to make it legible, 331
O lives, 190
Outlet, 221
Onions, pickled, 196
— , sliced with cu-
cumbers, 196
sauce, 124
'Soup, 112
• , to stew, 184
, to roast, 185
, store-onions to preserve
in winter, 192
Omngeade for the sick, 312
Orange butter, 216
marmalade, 228
biscuits, or little cakes,
231
• cheesecakes, 180
— — , a very nice
crust for orange-cheesecakes,
168
• chips, 230
■ fool, 205
cream, excellent, 206
• jelly, 213
(China) juice; a very
useful thing to mix with wa-
ter in fevers, when the fresh
juice cannot be had, 248 I
• juice, buttered, 230
pudding, three ways
of making, 149
tart, 172, 173
Orange-flower cakes, 231
Oranges, to butter, 216; to
butter-hot, 229
— , to keep, for pud- 1
dings, &tc. 232
, preserved, to fill ; a
corner dish, 230
-, whole carved, 230 I
-, to preserve in jelly,
231
Orgeat, two ways, 248
■ for the sick, 312
* , another way, 332 '
Ortolans, to roast, 101
Or-cheek stewed, plain, 46
, to dress it another
way, 47
feet, various ways of
dressing, 47
rump soup, 113
Oxford dumplings, 163
Oysters, to choose, 4
, to feed, 23
, to stew, 23
, boiled, 23
-, scalloped, 23
, fried, to garnish
boiled fish, 23
loaves, 24
, to pickle, 24
, another way, 24
, patties, 173
, or small pies,
174
sauce to beef-steaks,
40
sauce, 129
Oyster soup, H7
mouth ditto, 117
P.
Paint, to clean, 327
Palates, beef, 41
Panada, made in five minutes,
for the sick, 303
, two others, 303
, chicken, 303
Pancakes, common, 164
, fine ones, fried
without butter or lard,
164
, Irish, 165
, of rice, 165
, New England, 165
Paper, black, for drawing pat-
terns, 320
Paper-hangings, to clean, 328
Parmesan and cauliflower,
how to dress, 185
Parsley sauce, when no pars-
ley leaves are to be had, 125
pie, 146
INDEX.
xxm
Parslep, to preserve for the
winter, 192
Parsnips, fricassee of, 190
, to mash, 190
to preserve, to
eat in the winter, 192
Partridges, to choose, 1!7
, to roast, 98
— — , to pot, 99
, a very cheap
way, 99
, sauce for them
cold, 123 l
— soup, 108
pie in a dish, 145
Paste, rich puff, 160
, a less rich one, 107
, rich, for sweets, 107
rice, for relishing-
things, 107
, potatoe, 107
— , light, for tarts and
cheesecakes, 171
, strong, for paper, 303
Paste for chopped lips, 320
for chopped hands, 319
Pastry, 100 to 181
, observations on, 109
, remark on using pre-
served fruit in, 169
Pastu, to prepare venison for,
176
, venison pasty, 176
of beef, or mutton, to
eat as well as venison, 177
, potatoe, 178
Patent cocoa, 307
Patties, fried, 173
, oyster, 173
, or small pie,
174
, lobster, 174
, beef, or podovies,
174
, veal, 174
.turkey, 175
, sweet, 175
— , resembling mince-
pies, 175
• , forcemeat for, 134
Other patties are under the
names of the articles they
are made of.
Peaches in brandy, 227
Pea-fowl, to dress, 101
, management of them
in the poultry-yard, 297
Pears, stewed, 215
, baked, 215
, jarganel, to preserve
most beautifully, 236
Peas, to boil, 183
, (old) soup, 109
, (green) ditto, 110
, to stew, 183
, to keep, 183
, another way, as
practised in the emperor of
Russia’s kitchen, 183
Pepper, kitchen, 132
Peppermint drops, 242
Pepper-pot, 109, 224
Perch, 13
, to choose, 2
— -, to fry (like trout), 13
Pettttoes, 66
Pewter, (patent) porter-pots,
to clean, 332
Pheasants, to choose, 87
, to roast, 98
Pickles, 192 to 200
, rules to be observ-
ed with regard to them, 192
— — , pickle that will
keep for years, for hams,
tongues, or beef, 73
Pickles are under the names
of the articles pickled.
Pi ss, savoury, 137 to 147
—, observations
on, 137
— , fruit-pies, 169, &c.
hies are under the names of
the principal articles they
are made of ; as Apple pie,
Eel pie, &c.
Pig (sucking), to scald, 65
, to roast, 65
Pig’s check, to prepare for
bulling, 07
v
xx:v
INDEX.
Pig's head collared, 67
feet and ear , different
ways of dressing. 68
fricasseed, 69
jelly of feet and ears, fi9
• , souse for, 7o
harslet, 69
Pigeons, to choose, 86
■ > various wavs of
dressing, 95
to stew, two ways.
95
• » to broil, 95
, to roast, 96
to pickle, 66
— ”i jelly, 96
— — , the same, a beautiful
dish, 97
to pot, 97
• pie, 134
management of live
pigeons, 297
Pike, to choose, 2
Podovies, or beef patties, 174
Pomade divine, to make, 31 7
Pomatum, soft, to make, 317
— , another way,
317
, hard, 317
COOKERY FOR, 313 to
, to bake, 15
16
stuffing for,
Pilchard and leek pie, 140
Pipers, to dress, 15
Pippin pudding, 162
tart, 171
“ stewed golden pippins,
Pistachio-cream, 210
Plaice, an excellent way of
dressing a large one, 17
Plate, to clean. 326
Plovers, to choose, 87
-, to dress 101
, to dress their eggs,
Plums. Magnum bonum
plums, excellent as a sweet-
meat, or in tarts, though bad
to eat raw, 240
Plum cake, two ways of mak-
ing, 254
yery good com-
POOR,
316
, general
remarks and hints on this
subject, 213
Pork, to choose, 26
■ , to saltfor eating imme-
diately, 34
, remarks on cutting up,
&c. 61
, to roast a leg, 62
, to boil a leg, ,62
loin and neck, roast.
62
62
63
mon ones, 255
— ; , little ones to
keep long, 265
Plum pudding, common, 159
-, shoulders and breasts,
-, rolled neck, 63
-, spring or forehand, 63
-, sparerib, 63
-, griskin, 63
-, blade-bone, 63
to dress pork as lamb,
-, to pickle, 64
-, steaks, 63
sausages, 64
, an excellent sausage to
eat cold, 64
, pies, exabllent to eat
cold, 142
jelly. Dr. Ratcliff’s re-
storative, 301
Porker’s head, to roast, 67
Portable soup, 1 14
Pot-pourri, to make, 318
■ , a quicker sort of
sweetpot, 319
Potatoes, to boil, 188
, to broil, 1 89
, to roast, 189
— i , to fry, 189
, to mash, 189
, cheesecakes, 181
, Lent, 201
INDEX.
XXV
Potatoes, paste, 167
pasty, 17!t
pie, 147
pudding, an ex-
cellent plain one, 157
pudding with
meat, 157
• rolls, 267
Potted shrimps, 22
Potting birds, a very cheap
way of, !>!)
, to clarify butter of
potted things, 99
Poultry, 5ic. 98 to 194
, directions for dress-
ing, 87
Poultry-yard, 291 to 298
Pound cake, good, 256
Prawns, to choose, 3
, curry of, 22
, to butter, 22
and cray-fish in jelly,
22
soup, 117
Preserves, Sfc. 200 to 250
Preserved fruit, remarks on
using it in pastry, 169
. to preserve
fiuitfor winter use, 243 to
250
Prune tart, 1/1
Puddings, &c. 148 to 166
, observations on
making them, 148
, a quick made one,
162
, in haste, 152
• , to keep oranges or
lemons for, 232
Other puddings are under the
names of the principal
articles they are made of, or
their first names : as Bread
pudding, Light pudding, 4'c-
Puff-paste, rich, 166
, less rich, 167
, light or German purls,
, excellent light one,
176
Puff, apple-puffs, 175
lemon puffs, 175
cheese puffs, 176
- — - — to prepare apples for
putt's, 175
Putts d'amour, 201
Punch, an excellent method of
making, 278
milk, or verder, 279
, NorfolK, two ways, 2/9
Purple, a beautiful one for
dyeing gloves, 325
Q.
Quails, to dress, 100
Quaking pudding 154
Queen cakes, two ways of ma-
king 257
Quick-made pudding, 162
Quinces, to preserve whole or
half, 240
, quince marmalade,
239
H.
Rabbits, to choose, 87
, various ways of
dressing, 103
to make them taste
much like hare, 103
— to pot, 104
— — , to blanch, 104
pie (like chicken), 143
, fricasseed, crust for,
147
, management of live
rabbits, 298
Ragout (Hessian), and soup,
113
Raised crust for custards or
fruit, 168
for meat-pies, or
fowls, ifc. 168
Raisin wine, excellent, 275
Raisin wine, with cyder, 275
, without cyder,
2J6
XXVI
INDEX.
Ramakins, 222
Raspberry tart with cream, 173
~ brandy, 277
cakes, 242
- cream, two ways
210
238
-jam, 237
— , another way.
jelly, for ices or
creams, 238'
vinegar, 250
-7 — : — vinegar - water,
for the sick, 311
water ice, 217
' ; wine, two ways of
making, 272
; and currant tart
1/1
Ratafia, 217
cream, 217
another wav. 242
—drops, 242
Ratcliff’s (Dr.) restorative
pork-jelly, 301
Rece'pts, various, 317 to
«32o
Red, a beautiful one, to stain
jellies, ices or cakes, 218
Red apples, in jelly, 235
Red cabbage, to stew, 186
; — . to pickle, 198
Red herrings, to dress, 20
Red mullet, to dress, 14
Rennet, to prepare it to turn
283 111 making cheese.
Restorative, a great one, 304
■ — - — - — , two others, 304
; , another, a most
pleasant draught, 304
777—; Pork jelly, 301
Rhubarb tart, 173
Rice, savoury, 219
edging, or cassem), 137
boiled to eat with curtv
or roast meats, 340
, carrole of, 219
, buttered, 200
* cake, two ways, 258
Rice cake and wheatbread, 264
caudle for the sick, 305
another, 305
flummery, 202
and apple, souffle of, 204
milk, 219
, ground-rice milk, 308
pudding, Dutch, 151
, small, 155
■ •, plain, 155
, rich, 155
• ■, with fruit, 156
— , baked, 156
— — , another, for the
family, 156
; . ground, 63
Roasting meat, observations
on, 30
Robart, sauce, for rumps or
steaks, 125
Rolls, excellent, 266
, French, 266
, Brentford, 266
• , potatoe, 267
Roman cement, or mortar, for
outside plastering, or brick-
work, 322
Rot in sheep, to prevent, 331
Rout drop cake, 254
Ruffs and reeves, to dress, 100
Rump of beef, stewed, 36
, another way, 37
■ , roasted, 37
, ox rump soup, 113
1 mutton and kidney,
81
Rusks, 262
Russian-seed pudding, 16
Rust, to preserve irons from,
, to take it out of steel, 332
Sack cream, 207
mead, 276
Sage cheese, to make, 285
Sago to prepare, for the sick,
308
INDEX.
Sago, to prepare, to give away
to poor families, 316
milk, 308
pudding, 149
Salad, French, 188
, lobster, 188
Salmagundy, 220
Salmon, to choose, 1
, to boil, 7
, to broil, 7
, to pot, 7
, to dry, 7
, an excellent dish of
dried, 8
, to pickle, 8
, collared, 8
Saloop, 307
Sauces, Ac. 122 to 137
, a very good sauce,
especially to hide the bad
colour of fowls, 122
, whitesaucefor fricas-
see of fowls, rabbits, white
meat, fish, or vegetables,
122
, sauce for wild-fowl,
122
, another for the same,
or for ducks, 123
• , an excellent sauce for
carp, or boiled turkey, 123
, sauce for fowl of any
sort, 123
, for cold fowl, or part-
ridge, 123
, a very fine mush-
roo iff sauce for fowls or rab-
bits, 123
, lemon white sauce
for boiled fowls, 124
— — , liver-sauce, 124
, egg-sauce, 124
, onion-sauce, 124
, clear shalot sauce,124
, parsley-sauce, to
make, when no parsley-leaves
can be had, 125
, green sauce, for green
geese, or ducklings, 125
, bread-sauce, 125
xxvit
Sauce, Dutch Sauce, for meat
or fish, 125
, sauce Robart, for
rumps of steaks, 125
, Benton sauce, for hot
or cold roast beef, 128
, sauce for fish pics,
where cream is not ordered ;
two ways of making, 128
, Tomata sauce, for hot
or cold meats, 126
, apple-sauce, for goose
and roast pork, 126
, the old currant-sauce
for venison, 126
, lemon-sauce, 127
, carrier-sauce, for mut-
ton, 127
, ham-sauce, 127
, a very fine fish sauce,
127
, another 127
, fish-sauce without
butter, 128
, fish sauce a-la-C tas-
ter, 128
, an excellent substi-
tute for caper-sauce, 128
, oyter-sauce, 129
— lobster-sauce, two
ways, 129
, shrimp-sauce, 129
, anchovy-sauce, 129
, white-sauce, or be-
chamel, 119
Some other sauces, &c. are
under the names of different
dishes, or of the principal
articles the sauces are made
of
Sausages, veal, 56
— , pork, 64
, an excellent sau-
sage to eat cold, 64
, Spadbury’s Oxford
sausages, 65
, mutton, 80
Shallops of cold veal or chick-
en, 54
Scotch collops, 56
xxvm
INDEX.
Scotch mutton broth, 105
leek sou o, 1 13
eggs, 224
Sea-cale, 191
Seed cake, a cheap one, 256
— another, 257
Servants, directions for,
326
Shalot sauce, clear, 124
, vinegar, 130
Shank jelly, for the sick, 302
Sheep ; to prevent the rot in
sheep, 325
Shelfurd pudding, l(jl
Shoes, a fine blacking for, 333
Short cakes, little ones, how to
make, 254
Shrewsbury cakes, 257
Shrimps, to choose, 3
, to butter, 22
, to pot, 22
, sauce, 129
• pie, excellent, 139
Shrub, white-currant, 280
Sick persons, cookery
for, 299 to 313
• •. general remarks on
the subject, 299
Sippets for the sick, when the
stomach will not receive
meat, 303
Skate, 12
■ , to choose, 1
■ , crimp, 12
, soup, lit)
Smelts, to choose, 2
, to fry, 17
Snipes, to dress, 100
Snow may be used instead of
eggs, in puddings or pan-
cakes, 165
balls, 200
cream, 208
Soles, to choose, 2
, boiled, 16
, fried, 16; another way,
16
, stewed, 16
— - — , (like lamprey,)
46
Soles in the Portuguese wav.
16
, Portuguese stuffing for
soles baked, 17
pie, 138
Somersetshire firmitv, 203
Sorrel, to stew, for friiandeau
and roast meat. If to
Souffle of rice and apple, 200
Sounds, cod’s, to look like
small chicken, 10
Sours, <Sic. 104 to 121
, general directions re-
specting them, 104
, colouring for, 106
, an excellent soup, 10'!
, an excellent white one,
107
, a plainer white one, 107
, a-la-sap, 114
, portable, 114
, soup maigre, 115
, another, 115
, abakedone, togiveaway
to poor families, 314
for the weakly, for the
same purpose, 316
Other soups are under the
names of the principal arti-
cles they are made of
Souse for brawn, and for pig’s
feet and ears, 70
Souster, or Dutch pudding, 151
Spadbury's Oxford sausages, 65
Spareri b of pork, 63
Spinach, to boil, 186
soup, 112
Sprats, 19
, to choose, 3
, baked, 20
, to broil, 20
— - — , to make them taste
like anchovies, 134
Spunge cake, 258
■. another, without
butter, 259
Squab-pie, 143
Staffordshire dish of frying-
herbs, &c. i9i ; with liver,
224
KDEX.
XXIX
Stains, to take any kind out of
linen, 323
, stains caused by adds,
323
, another way for fruit-
stains, 323
, another, 323
, another way, 323
, stains of wine, fruit,
,kc. after they have been
long in the linen, 323
-, many other stains, 323
., to take them out of
marble, 331, Iron stains,
33i
Steaks, beef, 39
, and oyster-sauce,
40
, Staffordshire beef-
steaks, 40
, Italian beef-steaks, 40
, sauce for, 125
, beef-steak pie, 140
pudding, 157
, baked,
157
Steel, to take rust out of, 332
Stack, clear brown, for gravy-
soup or gravy , 106
, for orown or white fish
soups. 116
Stone, to extract oil from, .330
chimney pieces, to
blacken the fronts of, 331
, stairs and halls, to
clean, 306
Staves, to take the black off the
bright bars of polished ones
in a few minutes, 332
, another way, 332
Strawberries, to preserve them
whole, 232
— — , to preserve in
wine, 233
Stucco, excellent, which will
adhere to wood work, 321
, mason's washes for,
322
St affine for pike, haddock,
<kc. in
Stuffing for soles baked, 16
— for sole, cod, or tur-
bot pie, 153
— , forcemeat for, 135
Sturgeon, to dress fresh, 11
, to roast, 11
, an excellent imita-
tion of pickled, 11
Sucking pig, to scald, 65
, to roast, 65
Suet, to preserve it a twelve-
month, 225
pudding, 158
, veal-suet pudding, 158
dumplings, 163
Suffolk dumplings, 163
Suga-, good to be used in cur-
ing meats, 178
Suppers, general remarks on,
324
dish, a pretty one,
239
Sweet dishes, 200, &c.
Sweetbreads, ,60
roasted, 61
, ragout, 61
Sweetmeats, &c. 225 to 242
, observations on,
243
■, to clarify sugar
for, 225
, a very fine crust
for them, when required to
be particularly nice, 168
, a carmel cover
for sweetmeats, 21 1
, excellent sweet-
meats for tarts, when fruit
is plentiful, 240
Sweet-pot, to make, 318
Sweets, rich paste for, 167
Sweet patties, 175
Syllabub, London, 218
, Staffordshire, 218
, a very fine Somerset-
shire one, 218
-, everlasting, or solid,
219
Syrup of cream, 290
XXX
index.
T.
Table-beer, excellent, to brew,
269
Tansey , 201
Tapioca jelly for the sick, 302
Tartlets, how to prepare bar-
berries for, 226'
Tarts, iceing for them, 171
, pippin, 171
, prune, 172
, orange, 172
, codlin, 172
, rhubarb, 173
, raspberry, with cream,
173
Tea-cakes, 264
, Benton tea-cakes,
259
, another sort, as
biscuits, 259
, another sort, 259
Teal, to dress, 100
Ter.ch, 13
, to choose, 2
, to fry (like trout,) 13
broth for the sick, 3ol
Thornback , 12
Tin covers, to clean, 332
Toast, anchovy, tu o ways, 223
■ and water, for the sick,
310
Tomata sauce, for hot or cold
meats, 126
Tong ttesand udder, to roast, 44
, to pickle for boiling,
two ways, 46
, stewed, 45
, an excellent way of
doing them, to eat cold. 40
Transparent pudding, 154
• — , a pickle for them,
that will keep for years, 76
Trifle, an excellent one, 204
• , gooseberry or apple,
cake, 205
• , a froth to set on trifle,
which looks and eats well,
211
Tripe, 47
, soused, 47
Trout, to fry, 13
, to pot (like lobsters,) 21
a-la-Genevoise, 13
Truffles and morels, useful for
soups and sauces, 105
, how to preserve
them in the winter, 192
Tunbridge cakes, 258
Turbot, to choose, 1
, to keep, 6
, to boil, 7
pie, 139
Turkeys, to choose, 85
, to boil, 88
> an excellent
sauce for them boiled, 123
, to roast, 88
, (lulled, 89
patties, 175
— » management of tur-
keys in the poultry-yard, 236
Turnip soup, loy
pie, 1-0
Turtles, little eggs for them,
136
, force-meat for them,
136
U.
Udder and tongue, to roast, 44
V.
Teal, to choose, 24
, to keep, 48
leg, 46
knuckle, 46
shoulder, 49
neck, 49
, a-la-braise, 49
, breast of, 50
, rolled breast, 50
, to collar a breast, to eat
cold, 51
, a-la-daube, 51
INDEX.
XXXI
Vent, rolls of either cold meat
or fresh, 51
, harrico of, 52
, a dunelm of cold, 52
, minced, 52
■ , potted, 52
, to pot veal with ham, 53
cutlets Maintenon, 53
another way, 53
other ways, 53
collops, 53
• , to dress collops quick, 54
, scallops of cold veal, 43
fricandeau, 54
, a cheaper, but equally
good fricandeau, 55
fricandeau another way,
55
■ — - olives, 55
cake, 55
— sausages, 55
broth, 106
gravy, 120
pie, 140
, a rich one, 141
and parsley pie, lal
olive pie, 141
suet pudding, 158
patties, 174
— — broth, very nourishing,
301
Vhustabi.ks, 182 to 102
, observations on
dressing them, 182
, to boil them,
green, 182; in hard water, 182
, how to preserve
for the winter, lul, 102
— — - soup, 111; an-
other, 111
pie, 146
1 'unison, to choose, 25
• , to keep, 31
, to dress, 31
, haunch, neck, fee. 32
, stewed shoulder, 82
breast, 33
hashed, .33
, the old currant-sauce
for, 126
, to make a pasty of beef
or mutton, to eat as well as
venison, 177
Verier, or milk punch, 279
Vinegar, cam]), 130
, gooseberry, 131
, raspberry, 250
, raspberry-vinegar wa-
ter, 311
, shalot, 130
, sugar, 130
, cucumber, 131
wine,, 131
and lemon whey, 311
Vingaret, for cold fowl or
meat, 130
W.
Wafers, 260
Wainscot, fine oak, to give a
gloss to, 328
Walnuts, to pickle, 197
.another way, 197
ketchup of the finest
sort, 199
Wash-balls, to make, 319
Washes for stucco, 322
Water, an excellent one to pre-
vent the hair from falling off,
and to thicken it, 320
Water-cakes, 258
Water-gruel, 309
, another way, 309
■ souchy, 19
Welch pudding, 163
rabbit, 223
ale, to brew, 267
Whey, 311
, white-wine whey for the
sick, 311
■ , vinegar and lemon wheys,
311
White, to stain jellies, ices, or
cakes, 218
hog's puddings, 71
— - sauce, or bechamel
119
XXXll
INDEX,
Whitings, to choose, 2
, to dry (like had-
dock,) 15
Widgeon, to dress, 100
Wild fowl, to roast, 100
, sauce for, 122
, another, 123
Windsor beans fricasseed, 180
Wine, to refine, 270
roll, 210
vinegar, 131
, mulled, 300 ; another
way, 300
, to preserve strawberries
in wine, 233
- — , remarks on English
wines, 271
, a rich and pleasant wine,
271
— — , raspberry wine, 271
or currant wine,
272 : another way, 272
— — , black currant wine, very
fine. 272
• , ginger-wine, excellent,
273 ; another way, 273
Wine, cowslip-wine, excellent,
203
-, elder-wine, 274
white.
. very
much like Frontiniac, 2?4
— , clary wine, 2/5
, raisin wine, excellent, 275
, with cyder,
275
, without cy-
der, 270
Woodcocks, to dress, 100
Woollen, to preserve it from
moths, 324
V.
Yeast, to make, 202
, another way, 202
, to preserve, 270
, dumplings, 103
Yellow, to stain jellies, ices, or
cakes, 218
Yorkshire cake, 207
pudding, 102
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS
FOR TUB USE OF
THE MISTRESS OF A FAMILY.
In every rank, those deserve the greatest praise, who best
acquit themselves of the duties which their station requires.
Indeed, this line of conduct is not a matter of choice hut of
necessity, if we would maintain the dignity of our character
as rational beings.
In the variety of female acquirements, though domestic oc-
cupations stand not so high in esteem as they formerly did, yet,
when neglected, they produce much human misery. There
was a time when ladies knew nothing beyond their own family
concerns; but, in the present day, there are many who know
nothing about them. Kach of these extremes should be
avoided : but is there no way to unite, in the female character,
cultivation of talents and habits of usefulness? Happily there
are still great numbets in every situation, whose example
proves that this is possible. Instances may be found of ladies
in the higher walks of life, who condescend to examine the ac-
counts of their house-steward : and, by overlooking and wisely
directing the expenditure of that part of their husband's in-
come which falls under their own inspection, avoid the incon-
veniences of embarrassed circumstances. How much more
necessary, then, is domestic knowledge in those whose limited
fortunes press on their attention considerations of the strictest
economy ? There ought to be a material difference in the de-
gree of care which a person of a large and independent estate
bestows upon money concerns, and that of a person in confined
circumstances: yet both may very commendably employ some
portion of their time and thoughts on this subject. The cus-
tom of the times tends in some measure to abolish the distinc-
tions of rank ; and the education given to young people is
nearly the same in all : but though the leisure of the higher
may be well devoted to elegant accomplishments, the pursuits
of those in a middle line, if less ornamental, would belter se-
cure their own happiness and that of others connected with
them. We sometimes bring up children in a manner calcula-
ted rather to fit them for the station we wish, than that which
it is likely they will actually possess; and it is in all cases worth
the while of parents to consider whether the expectation or
xxxtv
OBSERVATIONS FOR THE
wXfounded"6 the'r °ffspring above their own situation be
1 he cultivation of the understanding and disposition, how-
ever, is not here alluded to; for a judicious improvement of
both, united to firm and early-taught religious principles,
would enable the happy possessor of these advantages to act
well on all occasions: nor would young ladies find domestic
Knowledge a burthen, or inconsistent with higher attainments,
it the rudiments of it were inculcated at a tender age, when
activity is so pleasing. If employment lie tiresome to a healthy
child, the fault must be traced to habits which, from many cau-
ses, are not at present favourable to the future conduct of wo-
men. It frequently happens, that before impressions of duty
are made on the mind, ornamental education commences ; and
it ever after takes the lead: thus, what should be only the
embellishment, becomes the main business of life. There is
no opportunity of attaining a knowledge of family manage-
ment at school; and, during vacation, all subjects that might
interfere with amusement are avoided.
When a girl, whose family moves in the higher ranks of life,
returns to reside at her father's house after completing her edu-
cation, her introduction to the gay world, and a continued
course of pleasures, persuade her at once that she was born to
be the ornament of fashionable circles, rather than to stoop (as
she would conceive it) to undertake the arrangement of a fa-
mily, though by that means she might in various ways aug-
ment the satisfaction and comfort of her parents. On the other
hand, persons of an inferior sptiere, and especially in the lower
order of middling life, are almost always anxious to give their
children such advantages of education as themselves did not
possess. Whether their indulgence be productive of the hap-
piness so kindly aimed at, must be judged by the effects, which
are not very favourable, if what has been taught has not pto-
duced humility in herself, and increased gratitude and respect
to the authors of her being. Were a young woman brought to
relish home society, and the calm delights of agreeable occu-
pation, before she entered into the delusive scenes of pleasure,
presented by the theatre and other dissipations, it is probable
she would soon make a comparison much in favour of the for-
mer, especially if restraint did not give to the latter additional
relish.
If we carry on our observations to married life, we shall find
a love of employment to be the source of unnumbered plea-
sures. To attend to the nursing, and at lenttearlp instruction
of children, and rear a healthy progeny in the ways of piety
and usefulness : to preside over the family and regulate the in-
come allotted to its maintenance: to make home the sweet re-
fuge of -a husband fatigued by intercourse with a jarring world :
to be bis enlightened companion and the chosen friend of his
heart: these, these, are woman’s duties ! and delightful ores
they are, if haply she be married to a man whose soul can duly
estimate her worth, and who will bring his share to the com-
MISTRESS OF A FAMILY.
XXXV
moil stock of felicity. Of such a woman, one may truly say,
“ Happy the man who can call her his wife. Blessed are the
children who call her mother.” .
When we thus observe her, exercising her activity and Dest
abilities in appropriate cares and. increasing excellence, are we
not ready to sav, she is the agent for good ot that benevolent
Being, who placed her on earth to fulfil such sacred obliga-
tions, not to waste the talents committed to her charge .
When it is thus evident that the high intellectual attainments
may find exercise in the m ultifarious occupations of the daugh-
ter, the wife, the mother, and the mistress ol the house, can
any one urge that the female mind is contracted by domestic
employ i It is, however, a great comfort that the duties ot
life are within the reach of humbler abilities, and that she
whose chief aim is to fulfil them, will rarely ever fail to acquit
herself well. United with, and perhaps crowning all the vir-
tues of the female character, is that well-directed ductility ot
mind, which occasionally bends its attention to the smaller
objects of life, knowing them to be often scarcely less essential
than the greater. . , , . . „
Hence the direction of a table is no inconsiderable branch ot
a lady’s concern, as it involves judgment in expenditure, re-
snectability of appearance, and the comfort of her husband and
those who partake their hospitality. .
The mode of covering the table differs in taste. It is not the
multiplicity of things, but the choice, the dressing and the neat
pleasing look of the whole, which gives respectability to her
who presides. Too much, or too little dinners, are extremes
not uncommon : the latter is in appearance and reality the et-
fort of poverty or penuriousness to be genteel ; and the former,
if constantly given, may endanger the circumstances ot those
who are not affluent.
Generally speaking, dinners are far less sumptuous than for-
merly, when half a dozen dishes were supplied for what one
now costs; consequently those whose fortunes are not great,
and who wish to make a genteel appearance, without extrava-
gance, regulate their table accordingly.
Perhaps there are few incidents in which the respectability
of a man is more immediately felt, than the style or dinner to
which he accidentally may bring home a visitor. Every one is
to live as he can afford, and the meal of the tradesman ought
not to emulate the entertainments of the higher classes, but if
two or three dishes are well served, with the usual sauces, the
table-linen clean, the small sideboard neatly laid, and all that
is necessary be at hand, the expectation of the husband and
friend will be gratified, because no irregularity of domestic ar-
rangement will disturb the social intercourse.
The same observation holds good on a larger scale. n all
situations of life, the entertainment should be no less suited to
the station, than to the fortune of the entertainer, and to the
number and rank of those invited.
The manner of carving is not only a very necessary branch
XXXVI
OBSERVATIONS FOR THE
of information, to enable a lady to do the honours of her table,
but makes a considerable difference in the consumption of a
family: and though in large parties she is so much assisted as
to render this knowledge apparently of less consequence, yet
she must at times feel the deficiency; and should not fail to
acquaint herself with an attainment, the advantage of which is
evident every day.
indeed, as fashions are so fleeting, it is more than probable,
that before the end of this century, great attention to guests
may be again the mode, at it was in the commencement of the
last. Some people haggle meat so much, as not to be able to
help half a dozen persons decently from a large tongue, or a
sirloin of beef; and the dish goes away with the appearance of
having been gnawed by dogs. If the daughters of the family
were to take the head of the table, under the direction of their
mother, they would fulfil its duties with grace, in the same
easy manner as an early practice in other domestic affairs
gradually fits them for their own future houses. Habit alone
can make good carvers; but some principal directions are here-
after given, with a reference to the annexed plates.
The mistress of a family should always remember that the
welfare and good management of the house depend on the eye
of the superior; and, consequently, that nothing is too trifling
for her notice, whereby waste may be avoided; and this atten-
tion is of more importance now that the price of every neces-
sarv of life is increased to an enormous degree.
if a lady has never been accustomed, while single, to think of
family management, let her not upon that account fear that
she cannot attain it: she may consult others who are more ex-
perienced, and acquaint herself with the necessary quantities
of the several articles of family expenditure, in proportion to
the number it consists of, the proper prices to pay, &c. ,Vc.
A minute account of the annual income, and the times of
payment, should be taken in writing; likewise an estimate of
the supposed amount of each article of expence ; and those
who are early accustomed to calculations on domestic articles
will acquire so accurate a knowledge of what their establish-
ment requires, as will give them the happy medium between
prodigality and parsimony, without acquiring the character of
meanness.
Perhaps few branches of female education are so useful as
great readiness at figures. Accounts should be regularly kept,
and not the smallest article omitted to be entered; and if ba-
lanced every week and month, &c. the income and out-goings
will be ascertained with facility, and their proportions to each
other be duly observed. Some people fix on stated sums to be
appropriated to each different article, and keep the money in
separate purses; as house, clothes, pocket, education of chil-
dren, .Sic. Whichever way accounts be entered, acertainmode
should be adopted, and strictly adhered to. Many women are
unfortunately ignorant of the state of their husband’s income ;
and others are only made acquainted with it when somespecu-
MISTRESS OF A FAMILY. XXXV11
lative project, or profitable transaction, leads them to form a
false estimate of what can be afforded ; and it too often happens
that both parties, far from consulting each other, squander mo-
ney in ways that they would even wish to forget : whereas mar-
riage should be a state of mutual and perfect confidence, and
similarity of pursuits, which would secure that happiness it
was intended to bestow.
There are so many valuable women who excel as wives, tnat
it is a fair inference there would be few extravagant ones, were
they consulted by their husbands on subjects that concern the
mutual interest of both parties. Within the knowledge of the
wr i ter of these pages, many families have been reduced to po-
verty by the want of openness in the man on the subject ot bis
affairs; and though on these occasions the women were
blamed, it has afterwards appeared, that they never were al-
lowed a voice of enquiry, or suffered to reason upon what some-
times appeared to them imprudent. . .,
Many families have owed their prosperity full as muen to me
propriety of female management, as to the knowledge and ac-
tivity of the father. . . .
The lady of a general officer observed to her man-cook, that
her last weekly bill was higher than usual. Some excuse was
offered to which she replied “ Such is the sum I have al-
lotted to house-keeping; should it be exceeded one week, the
next must repay it. The general will have no public day this
week." The fault was never repeated.
March’s “ Family Book-keeper” is a very useful work, and
saves much trouble ; the various articles of expense being
printed, with a column for every day in the year, so that at one
view the amount of expenditure on each, and the total sum,
may be known. . .
Ready money should be paid for all such things as come not
into weekly bills, and even for them a check is necessary. I fie
best places for purchasing should be attended to. In some ar-
ticles a discount of five per cent, is allowed for ready-money in
London and other large cities, and those who thus pay are usu-
ally best served. Under the idea of buying cheap, many go to
new shops, but it is safest to deal with people of established
credit, who do not dispose of goods by underselling.
To make tradesmen wait for their money, injures them
greatly; besides that, a higher price must be paid, and, in long
bills, articles never bought are often charged. Perhaps the ir-
regularity and failure of payment may have much evil influ-
ence on the price of various articles, and may contribute to the
destruction of many families, from the highest to the lowest.
Thus regularly conducted, the exact state of money anatrs
may be known with ease ; for it is delay of payment that
occasions confusion. A common-place book should be always
at hand, in which, to enter such hints of useful knowledge, and
other observations as are given by sensible experienced people.
Want of attention to what is advised, or supposing things too
minute to be worth hearing, are the causes why so much igno-
XXXVlii OBSERVATIONS FOR THE
ranee prevails on necessary subjects, among those who are
backward in frivolous ones.
It is very necessary for a woman to be informed of theprices
and goodness of all articles in common use, and of the best
times, as well as places, for purchasing them. She should also
be acquainted with the comparative prices of provisions, in
order that she may be able to substitute those that are most
reasonable, when they will answer as well for others of the
same kind, but which are more costly. A false notion of
economy leads many to purchase, as bargains, what is not
wanted, and sometimes never is used. Were this error avoided,
more money would remain for other purposes. It is not un-
usual among lower dealers to put off a larger quantity of goods,
by assurances that they are advancing in price ; and many who
supply fancy articles are so successful in persuasion, that pur-
chasers not utifrequently go far beyond their original intention,
even to their own future disquiet. Some things are better for
keeping, and, being in constant consumption, should be laid
in accordingly ; such as paper, soap, and candles. Of these,
more hereafter.
To give unvarying rules cannot be attempted ; for people
ought to form their conduct on their circumstances; but it is
presumed that a judicious arrangement, according to them,
will be found equally advantageous to all. The minutiar of
management must be regulated by every one's fortune and
rank; some ladies, not delicient in either, charge themselves
with giving out, once in a month, to a superintending servant,
such quantities Of household articles as by observation and
calculation they know to be sufficient, reserving for their own
key the large stock of things usually laid in for very large fa-
milies in the country. Should there be several more visitors
than usual, they can easily account for increase of consumption,
and vice versa. Such a degree of j udgment will be respectable
even in the eyes of domestics, if they are not interested in the
ignorance of their employers; and if they are, their services
will not compensate for want of honesty.
When young ladies marry, they frequently continue their
own maids in the capacity of house-keeper, s who, as they may
fce more attached to their interest than strangers, become very
valuable servants. To such, the economical observations in
this work will be as useful as the cookery ; and it is recom-
mendable in them to be strictly observant of both, which, in
the course of a year or two, wall make them familiar in the
practice.
It is much to be feared, that for the waste of many of the
good things that God has given for our use, not abuse, the mis-
tress and servants of great houses will hereafter be called to a
strict accouut.
Some part of every person’s fortune should be devoted to
charity: by which “a pious woman will build up her house
liefore God, while she that is foolish (i. e. lends nothing to the
Lord,) pulls it down with her hands.” No one can complain
MISTRESS OF A FAMILV. XXxix
of the want of gifts to the poor in this land ; but there is a
mode of relief which would add greatly to their comfort, and
which being prepared from supeifluity, and such materials as
are often thrown away, the ex| ense would not be felt. In the
latter part of this work some hints for preparing the above are
given. .
Bv good hours, especially early breakfast, a family is more
regular, and much time is saved. If orders be given soon in
the morning, there will be more time to execute them ; and
servants, by doing their work with ease, will be more equal to
it, and fewer will be necessary.
it is worthy of notice that the general expense will be reduc-
ed, and much time saved, if every thing be kept in its proper
place, applied to its proper use, and mended, when the nature
of the accident will allow, as soon as broken.
If theeconomy of time was duly considered, the useful affairs
transacted before amusements were allowed, and a regular plan
of employment was daily laid down, a great deal might be
done without hurry or fatigue; and it would be a most plea-
sant retrospect at the end of tire year, were it possible to enu-
merate all the valuable acquirements made, and the good ac-
tions performed by an active woman.
If the subject ot servants be thought ill-timed in a book upon
family arrangement, it must be by those who do not recollect
that the regularity and good management, of the heads will
be insufficient, if not seconded by those who are to execute
orders. It behoves every person to beextremely careful whom
lie-takes into his service ; to be very minute in investigating
the character he receives, and equally cautious and scrupulous-
ly just in giving one to others. Were this attended to, many
bad people would be incapacitated for doing mischief, by abus-
ing the trust reposed in them. It may be lairly asserted that
the robbery or waste, which is but a milder epithet for the un-
faithfulness of a servant, wilt be laid to the charge of that
master or mistress, who knowing, or having well-founded sus-
picions of such faults, is prevailed upon by false pity, or en-
treaty, to slide him into another place. There are, however,
some who are unfortunately capricious, and often retuse to give
a character because they are displeased that a servant leaves
their service ; but this is unpardonable, and an absolute rob-
bery, servants having no inheritance, and depending on their
fair name for employment. To refuse countenance to the evil,
and to encourage the good servant, are actions due to society
at large; and such as are honest, frugal, and attentive to their
duties, should be liberally rewarded, which would encourage
merit, and inspire servants with zeal to acquit themselves.
It may be proper to observe, that a retributive justice usually
marks persons in that station, sooner or later, even in this
world. The extravagant and idle in servitude are ill prepared
for the industry and sobriety on which their own future welfare
so essentially depends. Their faults, and the attendant punish-
ment, come home when they have children of their own ; and
xl observations for the
sometimes much sooner. They will see their own folly and
wickedness perpetuated in their offspring, whom they must
not expect to be better than the example and instruction given
by themselves.
it was the observation of a sensible and experienced woman,
that she could always read the fate of her servants who mar-
ried ; those who had been faithful and industrious in her ser-
vice, continued their good habits in their own fami ies, and
became respectable members of the community; those who
were the contrary, never were successful, and not unfrequently
were reduced to the parish.
A proper quantity of household articles should be always
ready, and more bought in before the others be consumed, io
prevent inconvenience, especially in the country.
A bill of parcels and receipt should be required, even if the
money be paid at the time of purchase ; and, to avoid mis-
takes, let the goods be compared with these when brought
home.
Though it is very disagreeable to suspect any one’s honesty,
and perhaps mistakes have been unintentional ; yet it is pru-
rient to weigh meat, sugars, Arc. when brought in. and compare
with the charge. The butcher should be ordered to send the
weight with the meat, and the cook to file these checks, to be
examined when the weekly bill shall be delivered.
Much trouble and irregularity are saved when there is com-
pany, if servants are required to prepare the table and side-
board in similar order daily.
All things likely to be wanted should be in readiness ; sugars
<% different qualities kept broken, currants washed, picked,
and perfectly dry; spices pounded, and kept in very small bot-
tles closely corked ; not more than will be used in four or five
weeks should be pounded at a time. Much less is necessary
than when boiied whole in gravies, Ac.
Where noonings or suppers are served, (and in every house
some preparation is necessary for accidental visitors,) care
should be taken to have such things in readiness as are proper
for either; a list of several will be subjoined, a change of*
which may be agreeable, and, if duly managed, will be attended
with little expense and much convenience.
A ticket should be exchanged by the cook for every loaf
of bread, which, when returned, will show the number to be
paid for ; as tallies may be altered, unless one is kept bv each
party.
Those who are served with brewer’s beer, or any other
articles not paid for weekly or on delivery, should keep a book
for entering the dates; which will not only serve to prevent
overcharges, but will shew the whole year’s consumption at
one view.
An inventory of furniture, linen, and china, should be kept,
and the things examined by it twice a-vear, or oftener, if there
be a change ot servants; into each of whose care the articles
used by him or her should be entrusted, with a list, as is done
xli
MISTRESS OF A FAMILY*
with plate. Tickets of parchment with the family name, num-
bered, and specifying what bed it belongs to, should be sewed
on each feather-bed, bolster, pillow, and blanket. Knives,
forks, and house-cloths, are often deficient : these accidents
might be obviated, if an article at the head of every list
required the former should be produced whole or broken, and
the marked part of the linen, though all the others should be
worn out. The inducement to care of glass is in some mea-
sure removed, by the increased price given for old-flint glass.
— Those who wish for trifle-dishes, butter stands, *vc. at a
lower charge than cut-glass, may buy them made in moulds, of
which there is great variety, that look extremely well, if not
placed near the more beautiful articles.
The price of starch depends upon that of flour ; the best will
keep good in a dry warm room for some years; therefore, when
bread is cheap, it may be bought to advantage, and covered
close. , , ,, „
Sugars being an article of considerable expense in all fa-
milies, the purchase demands particular attention. The
cheapest does not go so far as that more refined ; and there is
difference even in the degree of sweetness. The white should
be chosen that is close, heavy, and shining. The best sort of
brown has a bright gravelly look, and it is often to be bought
pure as imported. East India sugars are finer for the price,
but not so strong, consequently unfit for wines and sweetmeats,
but do well for common purposes, if good of their kind. To
prepare white sugar, pounded, rolling it with a bottle, and
sifting, wastes less than a mortar. .
Candles made in cool weather are best ; and when their
price, and that of soap, which rise and fall together, is likely
to be higher, it will be prudent to lay in the stock of both.
This information the chandler can always give ; they are better
for keeping eight or ten months, and will not injure for two
years, if properly placed in the cool ; and there are few articles
that better deserve care in buying, and allowing a due quantity
of, according to the size of the family.
Paper, by Keeping, improves in quality ; and if bought by
half or whole reams from large dealers, will be much cheaper
than purchased by the quire. The surprising increase of the
price of this article may be accounted for by the additional
duties, and a larger consumption, besides the monopoly of rags;
of the latter it is said there is some scarcity, which might be
obviated if an order were given to a servant in every family,
to keep a bag to receive all the waste bits from cuttings-
out, &c.
Many well-meaning servants are ignorant of the best means
of managing, and thereby waste as much as would maintain a
small family, besides causing the mistress of the house much
chagrin by their irregularity ; and many families, from a want
of methoci, have the appearance of chance rather than of regu-
lar system. To avoid this, the following hints may be useful
as well as economical : —
xlii
OBSERVATIONS FOR THE
Every article should be kept in that place best suited to it
as much waste may thereby be avoided, viz. *
Vegetables will keep best on a stone floor, if the air be ex-
cluded.—Meat in a cold dry place—Sugar and sweetmeats re-
quire a dry p are; so does salt -Candles cold, but not damp.
—Dried meats, hams, etc. the same— All sorts of seeds for
puddings, saloop, rice, etc. should be close covered to preserve
from insects ; but that will not prevent it, if long kept
n1S n°V°, hea-vy an artlcle of exPense that all waste
should be guarded against; and having it cut in the room will
tend much to prevent it. Since the scarcity in 1795 and llion,
that custom has been much adopted. It should not be cut
until a day old. Earthen pans and covers keep it best.
Straw to lay apples on should be quite dry, to prevent a
musty taste. 3 1 1
Large pears should be tied up by the stalk.
Basil, savoury, or knotted marjoram, or London thyme, to
be used when herbs are ordered ; but with discretion, as they
are very pungent. 3
The best means to preserve blankets from moths, is to fold
and lay them under the feather-beds that are in use ; and they
should be shaken occasionally. When soiled, they should be
washed, not scoured.
•Soda, by softening the water, saves a great deal of soap. 1 1
should be melted m a large jug of water, some of which pour
into the tubs and boiler; and, when the lather becomes weak,
add more. 1 he new improvement on soft soap is, if properly
used, a saving of near half in quantity ; and, though something
dearer than the hard, reduces the price of washing con-
siderably.
Many good laundresses advise soaping linen in warm water
the night previous to washing, as facilitating the operation
with less friction.
Soap should be cut with a wire or twine, in pieces that will
make a long square when first brought in. and kept out of the
air two or three weeks ; for if it dry quick, it will crack, and,
when wet, break. Put it on a shelf, leaving a space between,
and let it grow hard gradually. Thus, it will save a full third
in the consumption.
Some of the lemons and oranges used for juice should be
pared first to preserve the peel dry ; some should be halved,
and, when squeezed, the pulp cut out, and the outsides dried
tor grating, if for boiling in any liquid, the first way is best.
v\ hen these fruits are cheap, a proper quantity should be
bought and prepared as above directed, especially by those
who jive in the country, where they cannot always be had ;
and they are perpetually wanted in cookery.
vV hen whites of eggs are used for jelly, or other purposes,
contrive to have pudding, custard, etc. to employ the yolks
also- .Should you not want them for several hours, beat them
up with a little water, and put them in a cool place, or they
MISTRESS OF A FAMILY. xliii
will be hardened and useless It was a mistake of old, to
think that the whites made cakes and puddings heavy ; on the
contrary, if beaten long and separately, they contnoute greatly
to give lightness, are an advantage to paste, and make a
pretty dish beaten with fruit, to set in cream, etc.
If copper utensils be used in the kitchen, the cook should
be charged to be very careful not to let the tin be rubbed otl ;
and to nave them fresh done when the least defect appears,
and never to put by any soup, gravy, etc. in them, or any
metal utensil ; stone and earthen vessels should be provided
for these purposes, as likewise plenty of common dishes, that
the table set may be used to put by cold meat.
Tin vessels, if kept damp, soon rust, which causes holes.
Fenders, and tin linings of flower-pots, etc, should be painted
every year or two. , .
Vegetables soon sour, and corrode metals and glazed red
ware, by which a strong poison is produced. Some years ago,
the death of several gentlemen was occasioned at Salt-hill, by
the cook sending a ragout to table, which she had kept from
the preceding day in a copper vessel badly tinned.
Vinegar, by its acidity, does the same, the glazing being ot
lead or arsenic.
To cool liquors in hot weather, dip a cloth in cold water,
and wrap it round the bottle two or three times, then place it
in the sun ; renew the process once or twice.
The best way of scalding fruits, or boiling vinegar, is in a
stone jar on a hot iron hearth ; or by putting the vessel into a
saucepan of water, called a water-bath.
If chocolate, coffee, jelly, gruel, bark, etc. be suffered to bod
over, the strength is lost,
The cook should be encouraged to be careful of coals and
cinders ; for the latter there is a new contrivance to sift with-
out dispersing the dust of the ashes, by means of a covered tin
bucket.
Small coal, wetted, makes the strongest fire for the back,
but must remain untouched until it cake. Cinders, lightly
wet, give a great degree of heat, and are better than coal for
furnaces, ironing-stoves, and ovens.
The cook should be charged to take care of jelly-baas, tapes
for the collared things, etc. which if not perfectly scalded, and
kept dry, give an unpleasant flavour when next used.
Cold water thrown on cast-iron, when hot, will cause it to
crack.
In the following, and indeed all other receipts, though the
quantities may be as accurately directed as possible, yet much
must be left to the discretion of the person who uses them.
The different tastes of people require more or less of the fla-
vour of spices, salt, garlic, butter, etc. which can never be or-
dered by general rules ; and if the cook has not a good taste,
and attention to that of her employers, not all the ingredients
which nature and art can furnish, will give exquisite flavour
to her dishes. The proper articles should be at hand, and she
xliv
OBSERVATIONS FOR THE
must proportion them until the true zest be obtained, and a
ariety of flavour be given to the different dishes served at the
same time.
who require maigre dishes will find abundance in
this little woik; and where they are not strictly so, by suet
or bacon being directed in stuffings, the cook must use butter
instead : and where meat gravies (or stock as they are called)
are ordered, those made of fish must be adopted.
DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING.
The carving-knife for a lady should be light, and of a mid-
dling size and fine edge. Strength is less required than address
Lr-mann/r u,sm,g il: and> t0 facilitate this, the cook
shall grve orders to the butcher to divide the joints of the bones
£ I?utton* >and>. and veal, (such as neck,
?nd 1?ln : \ whlch ™ay then be easily cut into thin slices
attached to the adjoining bones. If the whole of the meat be-
tongmg to each bone should be too thick, a small slice may be
taken oft between every two bones. 3
The more fleshy joints (as fillet of veal, leg or saddle of mut-
ton, and beef,) are to be helped in thin slices, neatly cut and
smooth, observing to let the knife pass down to the bone in the
mutton and beef joints.
1 he dish should not be too far off the carver, as it gives an
awkward appearance, and makes the task more difficult. At-
tention is to be paid to help every one to a part of such arti-
cles as are considered the best.
In helping fish, take care not to break the flakes, which in
cod and very fresh salmon are large, and contribute much to
the beauty of its appearance. A fish knife, not being sharp,
divides it best on this account. Help a part of the roe, milt
or liver, to each person. The heads of carp, parts of those of
cod and salmon, sounds of cod and fins of turbot, are likewise
esteemed niceties, and are to be attended to accordingly.
In cutting up any wild-fowl, duck, goose, or turkey, for a
large party, if you cut the slices down from pinion to pinion
without making wings, there will be more prime pieces.
.1 Head\—Fish in general requires very little carving,
the fleshy parts being those principally esteemed . A cod's head
and shoulders, when in season, and properly boiled, is a verv
genteel and handsome dish. When cut, it should be done with
a hsli-trowel, and the parts about the back-bone on the shoul-
ders are the most firm and the best. Take off a piece quite
down to the bone, in the direction of a, b, c, d, putting in the
spoon at a, c, and with each slice of fish give a piece of the
sound, which lies underneath the back bone and lines it, the
meat of which is thin, and a little darker-coloured than the
xlv
MISTRESS OF A FAMILY.
body of the fish itself : this may be got by passing a knife ot
spoon underneath, in the direction d, f.
About the head are many delicate parts, and a great deal of
the jelly kind. The jelly part lies about the jaw, bones, and
the firm parts within the head. Some are fond of the palate,
and others the tongue, which likewise may be got by putting
a spoon into the mouth.
Edge-bone of Beef.— Cut off a slice an inch thick all the
length from a to b, and then help.
The soft fat, which resembles marrow, lies at the back of the
tone, below c ; the firm fat must be cut in honzontal slices at
the edge of the meat d. It is proper to ask which is prelerred,
as tastes differ. The skewer that keeps the meat properly
together, when boiling, is here shown at a. 1 his should no
drawn out before it is served up : or, if it is necessary to leave
the skewer in, put a silver one.
Sirloin of Beef may be begun either at the end, or by cut-
ting into the middle. ' It is usual to inquire whether the out-
side or the inside is preferred, For the outside, the slice should
to cut down to the bones ; and the same with every following
xlvi
OBSERVATION'S FOR THE
6omfoftheioftfat!nSi<le ll,keWiSe’ a“d give With each P'we
.J!‘e,infi<Je’.doneas fo'lo"S eats excellently Have readv
some shal°t>vine(rar boiling hot : mince the meat laree md a
f?0d °/‘he sprinkle it with salt, and ^VrX’sSo,-
?‘d°S Buttock of Beef is cut in the same way as fillet of
veal, in the next article. It should be kept even all over
When helping the fat, observe not to hack it but cut it
smooth. A deep slice should be cut off the beef before vou
begin to help, as directed above for the edge-bone. *
V,eal — In an ox tbis part is round of beef. Ask
shVptheThheibrOW-n °Vtslde be liked> otherwise help the next
The bone is taken out and the meat tied close before
thiVTapfi’ ,W11Ch makes the bllet very solid. It should be cut
thin and very smooth. A stuffing is put into the flan which
completely covers it ; you must cut deep into this, and help a
inn thoCioViaS llke'VIse of fat.- From carelessness in not cover-
l g the latter with paper, it is sometimes dried up, to thee rent
disappointment of the carver. 1 ’ 1 lne £reat
«/ f'etH — One part (which is called the brisket) is
fro™ o!’ a,|K 1 CS ?”stIes : Put your knife about four inches
fv,0m ule<-ei ^e tbls’ and cut through it, which will separate
cording^™ the brisket' Ask whicb «■ cto, and hoYp ac
no Calf 's-Hecul has a great deal of meat upon it, if properly ma-
bone SUCeS " “ l° b' letti,‘k’ the k,lUtg° close ,o the
sweetbrc-Td1’ UYn at *5* ,end c' thpre ”<* the throat
Vi 6 d’ ' . 1 y°u shou d help a slice of from c to d wi h
Jvi?h the/pan* .^,any like the eye ; which you mu'tcutout
th the point of your knife, and divide in two. if the iaw-
a °^*, there W>H be found some fine loan. Under
the head is the palate, which is reckoned a nicety ; the lady of
MISTRESS OF A FAMILY. xlvii
the house should be acquainted with all things that are thought
so, that she may distribute them among her guests.
Shoulder of Mutton This is a very good joint, and by many
preferred to the leg, it being very full of gravy, if properly
roasted, and produces many nice bits. The figure represents
it as laid in the dish with its' back uppermost. When it is first
cut, it should be in the hollow part of it, in the direction of
a, b, and the knife should be pas ed deep to the bone.
The prime part of the fat lies on the outer edge, and it is to he
cut out in thin slices in the direction e. if many are at table,
and the hollow part cut in the line a, 'b, is eaten, some very
good and delicate slices may be cut out on each side the ridge of
the blade-bone, in the direction c, d. The line between these
two dotted lines, is that in the direction of which the edge or
ridge of the blade-bone lies, anil cannot be cut across.
Leg of Mutton.— A leg of wether mutton (which is the best
flavoured) may be known by a round lump of fat at the edge
of the broadest part, as at a.
xlviii OBSERVATIONS FOR THE
The best part is in the midway, at b, between the knuckl and
further end. Begin to help there, by cutting thin deep slices
toe. If the outside is not fat enough, help some from the
side of the broad end in slices from e to /. This part is most
juicy ; but many prefer the knuckle, which in tine mutton
will be very tender though dry. There are very fine slices on
the back of the leg; turn it up, and cut the broad end, not in
the direction you did the other side, but longways. To cut
out the cramp-bone, take hold of the shank with your left
hand, and cut down to the thigh-bone at d ,• then pass the knife
under the cramp-bone, in the direction d, g.
A Fore-quarter of Lamb.— Separate the shoulder from the
scoven, (which is the breast and ribs,) by passing the knife
under in the direction of a, b, c, d, keeping it towards you
horizontally, to prevent cutting the meat too much oil' the
bones.
If grass-lamb, the shoulder being large, put it into another
dish. Squeeze the juice of half a Seville orange (or lemon) on
the other part, and sprinkle a little salt and pepper. Then
separate the gristly part from the ribs in the linee, c; and help
either from that, < r from the ribs, as may be chosen.
Haunch of Venison. — Cut down to the bone in the line a, b,
c, to let out the gravy ; then turn the broad end of the haunch
towards you, put in the knife at 6, and cut as deep as you cm
to the end of the haunch d; then h lp in thin slices, observing
to give some fat to each iierson.
MISTRESS OF A FAMILY. xlix
There is more fat (which is a favourite part) on the left side
' of c and rf than on the other ; and those who help must take
care to proportion it, as likewise the gravy, according to the
number of the company.
Haunch of Mutton isghe leg and part of the loin, cut so as
to resemble haunch of venison, and is to be helped at table in
the same manner.
Saddle of Mutton.— Cut long thin slices from the tail to the
end, beginning close to the back-bone. If a large joint, the
slice may be divided. Cut some fat from the sides.
Ham may be cut three ways : the common method is, to
begin in the middle, by long slices from a to b, from the centre
through the thick fat.
This brings to the prime at first ; which is likewise accom-
plished by cutting a small round hole on the top of the ham,
as at c, and with a sharp knife enlarging that by cutting suc-
cessive thin circles; this preserves the gravy, and keeps the
meat moist.
The last and most saving way is, to begin at the hock end
(which many are most fond of,) and proceed onwards.
1 lam that is used for pies, <vc. should be cut trom the under
side, first taking off' a thick slice.
• Suck mu Pig.— The cook usually divides the body before it
is sent to table, and garnishes the dish with the jaws and ears.
The first thing is, to separate a shoulder from the carcase
on one side, and then the leg, according to the direction given
by the dotted line <1, 6, c.
d
1
OBSERVATIONS FOR THE
The ribs are then to be divided into about two helpings; and
an ear or jaw presented with them, with plenty of sauce. The
joints may either be divided into two each, or pieces may be cut
from them. The ribs are reckoned the finest part : but some
people prefer the neck end, between the shoulders.
Goose.— Cut off the apron in the circular line o, b, c, and
pour into the body a glass of port wine, and a large tea-spoon-
ful of mustard, first mixed at the sideboard.
Turn the neck end of the goose towards you, and cut the
whole breast in long slices from one wing to another ; but only
remove them as you help each person, unless the company is
so large as to require the legs likewise. This way gives more
prime bits than by making wings. Take off' the leg, by putting
the fork into the small end of the bone, pressing it to the body,
and having passed the knife at d, turn the leg back, and, if a
young bird, it will easily separate. To take off the wing, put
your fork into the small end of the pinion, and press it close
to the body ; then put in the knife at d, and divide the joint,
taking it in the direction d, e. Nothing but practice will ena-
ble people to hit the joint exactly at the first trial. When the
leg and wing of one side are done, go on to the other; but it
is not often necessary to cut up the whole goose, unless the
company be very large. There are two side-bones by the wing,
which may be cut off, as likewise the back and lower side-
bones; but the best pieces are the breast, and the thighs after
being divided from the drum-sticks.
Hare.—' The best way of cutting it up is, to put the point of
the knife under the shoulder at a, and so cut all the way down
to the rump, on one side of the back-bone, in the line a, b. I)o
the same on the other side, so that the whole hare will be di-
vided into three parts. Cut the back into four, which, with
the legs, is the part most esteemed. The shoulder must be
cut off in a circular line, as c, d, « : lay the pieces neatly on the
dish as you cut them, and then help the company, giving some
pudding and gravy to every person.
MISTRESS OP A FAMILY.
li
This way can only be practised when the hare is young; if
old, do not divide it down, which will require a strong arm,
but put the knife between the leg and back, and give it a little
turn inwards at the joint, which you must endeavour to hit,
and not to break by force. When both legs are taken off, there
is a fane collop on each side the back ; then divide the back
rnto as many pieces as you please, and take off the shoulders,
which are by many preferred, and are called the sportsman’s
pieces. When every one is helped, cut oft' the head, put your
knife between the upper and lower jaw, and divide them
which will enable you to lay the upper flat on your plate; then
put the point of the knife into the centre, and cut the head
into two. The ears and brains may be helped then to those
who like them.
Carve Rabbits as directed the latter way for hare; cutting
the back into two pieces, which, with the legs, are the prime.
A Fowl. — A boiled fowl’s legs are bent inwards, and tucked
into the belly ; but, before it is served, the skewers are to be
removed. Lay the fowl on your plate, and place the joints,
as cut off, on the dish. Take the wing otf in the direction of
a to b, only dividing the joint with your knife.
your fork lift UP the Pinion. and draw the wing
c S !hL;,lcks>.and the muscles will separate in a more com-
Plete form than if cut. Slip the knife between the leg and
an,d cut to the bone; then with the fork turn the leg
wack, and the joint will give way if the bird is not old. When
I
V EN ISON 1 — Haunch.
2— Neck.
3 — Shoulder.
4 — Breast. — See jxige 31.
BEEF. — Hind Quarter:
1 — Sirloin.
2 — Ruinp.
3 — Edge- Bone.
4— Buttock.
6 — Mouse Buttock.
Veiny Piece.
7— Thick Flank.
8— Thin Flank. i 14 — Brisket.
9— Leg. 15— Clod.
10 — Fore Rib; 5 Ribs. 16 — Neck or Stick-
Fore Quarter : inff Piece.
11 — Middle Rib; 4 Ribs. 1 17 — Shin.
12— Chuck ; 3 Ribs. | 18 — Cheek.
13 — Leg of Mutton Piece. ' See page 33.
I
VEAL.
1 — Loin, best end.
2— Loin, Chump end.
3— Fillet.
4— Hind Knuckle.
6— Fore Knuckle,
fi— Neck, best end.
7— Neck, Scrag end. |
R — Blade Bone.
9 — Breast, best end.
10— Breast, Brisket end.
See page 43.
FOKK.-l-The Sparerib. | 2— Be'lyor Spring.
2 — Hand. | 4— Fore Loin.
ft— Hind Loin.
6— Lee See p>ge<H.
MUTTON.
1 — I<eir.
2 — Ixiin, be^t end.
3— Loin, Chump end.
4 Neck, best end.
ft_ Neck. Scrag end.
fi — Shoulder.
7 — Breast.
A Clone is two Loins.
A Srdd'e is t^o Necks.
Seepage 75
Turkey for Roasting— Page 88.
Turkey or Fowl for Boiling — Page 88.
Chicken or Fowl for Roasting — Page 90.
Back. Dueki
■Page 93.
Breast.
Goose— Page 94.
Woodcock or Snipe— Page 10©.
Pigeon — Page 95
Phe.isant or Partridge— Page 98.
Hire or Rabbit trussed for Roasting— Page 1P2.
Hare or Rabbit for Roasting or Boiling— Puge 102
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
PART I.
FISH.
To choose Fish.
Turbot, if good, should he thick, and the belly of a
yellowish white ; if of a bluish cast, or thin, they are
bad. They are in season the greatest part of the sum-
mer.
Salmon. — If new, the flesh is of a fine red (the gills
Particularly), the scales bright, and the whole fish stiff.
When just killed, there is a whiteness between the flakes,
which gives great firmness ; by keeping, this melts down,
and the fish is more rich. The Thames salmon bears
the highest price ; that caught in the Severn is next in
goodness, and is even preferred by some. Small heads,
and thick in the neck are best.
Cod. — The gills should be very red : the fish should
be very thick at the neck, the flesh white and firm, and
the eyes fresh. When flabby they are not good. They
are in season from the beginning of December till the
end of April.
Skate. — If good, they are very white and thick. If
A
D DOMESTIC COOKERY.
too fresh they eat tough, but must not be kept above
two days.
Herrings. — If good, their gills are of a fine red and
the eyes bright ; as is likewise the whole fish, which
must be stiff and firm.
Soles —If good, they are thick, and the belly is of a
cream-colour ; if this is of a bluish cast and flabby they
are not fresh. They are in the market almost the
whole year, but are in the highest perfection about mid-
summer.
Whitings . — The firmness of the body and fins is to be
looked to, as in herrings ; their high season is during the
first three mouths of the year, but they may be had a
great part of it.
Mackerel. — Choose as whitings. Their season is May,
June, and July. They are so tender a fish that they
carry and keep worse than any other.
Pike. — For freshness observe the above marks. The
best are taken in rivers ; they are a very dry fish, and
are much indebted to stuffing and sauce.
Carp live some time out of water, aud may therefore
get wasted ; it is best to kill them as soon as caught, to
prevent this. The same signs of freshness attend them
as other fish.
Tench. — They are a fine-flavoured fresli-water fish,
and should be killed and dressed as soon as caught.—
When they are to be bought, examine whether the gills
are red and hard to open, the eyes bright, and the body
stiff. The tench has a slimy matter about it, the clear-
ness and brightness of which shew freshness. The sea-
son is July, August, and September.
Perch. — Take the general rules given to distinguish
the freshness of other fish. They are not so delicate as
carp and tench.
Smelts, if good, have a fine silvery hue, are very firm,
and have a refreshing smell like cucumbers newly cut.—
FISH.
3
They are caught in the Thames and some other large
rivers.
Mullets. — The sea are preferred to the river mullets,
and the red to the grey. They should be very firm. — •
Their season is August.
Gudgeons. — They are chosen by the same rules as
other fish. They are taken in running streams ; come
in about midsummer, and are to be had for five or six
months.
Eels. — There is a greater difference in the goodness of
eels than of any other fish. The true silver- eel (so
called from the bright colour of the belly) is caught in
the Thames. The Dutch eels sold at Billingsgate are
very bad ; those taken in great floods are generally good,
but in ponds they have usually a strong rank flavour.
Except the middle of summer, they are always in season.
Lobsters. — If they have not been long taken, the
claws will have a strong motion when you put your fin-
ger on the eyes and press them. The heaviest are the
best, and it is preferable to boil them at home. When
you buy them ready-boiled, try whether their tails are
stiff and pull up with a spring ; otherwise that part will
be flabby. The cock lobster is known by the narrow
back part of his tail, and the two uppermost fins within
it are stiff and hard ; but those of the hen are soft, and
the tail broader. The male, though generally smaller,
has the highest flavour, the flesh is firmer, and the colour
when boiled is a deeper red.
Crabs. — The heaviest are best, and those of a mid-
dling size are sweetest. If light they are watery : when
in perfection the joints of the legs are stiff, and the body
has a very agreeable smell. The eyes look dead and
loose when stale.
Prawns and Shrimps. — When fresh they have a sweet
flavour, are firm and stiff, and the colour is bright. —
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
4
Shrimps are of the prawn kind, and. may be judged by
the same rules.
Oysters. — There are several kinds; the Pyfleet, Col-
chester, and Milford, are much the best. The native
Milton are fine, being white and fat ; but others may
be made to possess both these qualities in some degree
by proper feeding. When alive and strong the shell
closes on the knife. They should be eaten a3 soon as'
opened, the flavour becoming poor otherwise. Tho
rock oyster is largest, but usually has a coarse flavour if
eaten raw.
Flounders. — They should be thick, firm, and have
their eyes bright. They very soon become flabby and
bad. They are both sea and river fish. The Thames
produces the best. They are in season from J anuary to
March, and from July to September.
Sprats. — Choose by the same rules as herrings.
Observations on Dressing Fish.
If the fishmonger does not clean it, fish is seldom
very nicely done ; but those in great towns wash it be-
yond what is necessary for cleaning, and by perpetual
watering diminish the flavour. When quite clean, if to
be boiled, some salt and a little vinegar should be put
into the water to give firmness : but cod, whiting, and
haddock, are far better if a little salted, and kept a
day ; and if not very hot weather, they will be good two
days.
Those who know how to purchase fish, may, by tak-
ing more at a time than they want for one day, often get
it cheap ; and such kinds as will pot or pickle, or keep
by being sprinkled with salt and hung up, or by being
fried will serve for stewing the next day, may then be
bought with advantage.
Fresh- water fish has often a muddy smell and taste ;
to take off which, soak it in strong salt and water after
fish.
5
it is nicely cleaned ; or if of a size to bear it, scald it in
the same ; then dry, and dress it.
The fish must be put into the water while cold, and
set to do very gently, or the outside will break before
the inner part is done.
Crimp fish should be put into boiling water ; and
when it boils up, pour a little cold water in, to check
extreme heat, and simmer it a few minutes.
The fish-plate on which it is done may be drawn up,
to see if it be ready ; it will leave the bone when it is.
— It should then be immediately taken out of the water,
or it will be woolly. The fish-plate should be set cross-
ways over the kettle, to keep hot for serving ; and a
clean cloth cover the fish, to prevent its losing its colour.
Small fish nicely fried, covered with egg and crumbs,
make a dish far more elegant than if served plain. —
Great attention should be paid to garnishing fish : use
plenty of horse-radish, parsley, and lemon.
When well done, and with very good sauce, fish is
more attended to than almost any other dish. The liver
and roe should be placed on the dish, so that the lady
may see them, and help a part to every one.
If fish is to be fried or broiled, it must be wrapt in a
nice soft cloth after it is well cleaned and washed.' -
When perfectly dry, wet with an egg if for frying, and
sprinkle the finest crumbs of bread over it ; if done a
second time with the egg and bread, the fish will look
much better : then having a thick-bottomed frying-pan
on tbe fire, with a large quantity of lard or dripping
boiling-hot, plunge the fish into it, and let it fry mid-
dlingly quick, till the colour is a fine brown yellow,
and it is judged ready. If it is done enough before it has
obtained a proper degree of colour, the cook should
draw the pan to the side of the fire ; carefully take it
up, and either place it on a large sieve turned upwards,
and to be kept for that purpose only, or on the under
6 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
side of a disli to drain : and if wanted very nice, a sheet
of cap paper must Ire put to receive the fish, which
should look a beautiful colour, and all the crumbs ap-
pear distinct ; the fish being free from all grease. The
same dripping, with a little fresh, will serve a second
time. Butter gives a bad colour ; oil fries of the finest
colour for those who will allow the expense.
Garnish with a fringe of curled raw parsley, or pars-
ley fried, which must be thus done : When washed and
picked, throw it again into clean water : when the lard
or dripping boils, throw the parsley into it immediately
from the water, and instantly it will be green and crisp,
and must be taken up with a slice ; this may be done
after the fish is fried.
If fish is to be broiled, it must be seasoned, floured,
and put on a gridiron that is very clean ; which, when
hot, should be rubbed with a bit of suet, to prevent the
fish from sticking. It must be broiled on a very clear
fire, that it may not taste smoky ; and not too near,
that it may not be scorched.
TURBOT.
To keep Turbot.
If necessary, turbot will keep for two or three days,
and be in as high perfection as at first, if lightly rubbed
over with salt, and carefully hung in a cold place.
To boil Turbot.
The turbot-kettle must be of a proper size, and in
the nicest order. Set the fish in cold water sufficient
to cover it completely, throw a handful of salt and a
glass of vinegar into it, and let it gradually boil ; be
very careful that there fall no blacks ; but skim it well,
and preserve the beauty of the colour.
Serve it garnished with a complete fringe of curled
parsley, lemon, and horse-radish.
The sauce must be the finest lobster, and anchovy
FISH. 7
butter, and plain butter, served plentifully in separate
tureens.
SALMON.
To boil Salmon.
Clean it carefully, boil it gently, and take it out of
the water as soon as done. I .et the water be warm
if the fish be split. If underdone it is very unwhole-
some.
Shrimp or anchovy-sauce.
To broil Salmon.
Cut slices an inch thick, and season with pepper and
salt ; lay each slice in half a sheet of white paper, well
buttered, twist the ends of the paper, and broil the
slices over a slow fire six or eight minutes. Serve in
the paper with anchovy-sauce.
To pot Salmon.
Take a large piece, scale and wipe, but don't wash
it ; salt very well, let it lie till the salt is melted and
drained from it, then season with beaten mace, cloves,
and whole pepper : lay in a few bay-leaves, put it close
into a pan, cover it over with butter, and bake it ;
when well done, drain it from the gravy, put it into
the pots to keep, and when cold cover it with clarified
butter.
In this manner you may do any firm fish.
To dry Salmon.
Cut the fish down, take out the inside and roe. Rub
the whole with common salt after scaling it ; let it hang
24 hours to drain. Pound three or four ounces of salt-
petre, according to the size of the fish, two ounces of
bay salt, and two ounces of coarse sugar ; rub these,
when mixed well, into the salmon, and lay it on a large
dish or tray two days, then rub it well with common
salt, and in 24 hours more it will be fit to dry ; wipe it
well after draining. Hang it either in a wood chimney,
8
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
or in a dry place ; keeping it open with two small
sticks.
Dried salmon is eaten broiled in paper, and only just
warmed through ; egg sauce and mashed potatoes with
it; or it may be boiled, especially the bit next the head.
An excellent dish of dried Salmon.
Pull some into flakes ; have ready some eggs boiled
hard, and chopped large ; put both into half a pint of
thin cream, and two or three ounces of butter rubbed
with a tea-spoonful of flour ; skim it, and stir till boil-
ing hot ; make a wall of mashed potatoes round the in-
ner edge of a dish, and pour the above into it.
To piclde Salmon.
Boil as before directed, take the fish out, and boil the
liquor with bay-leaves, pepper-corns, and salt ; add vi-
negar when cold, and pour it over the fish.
Another icay.
After scaling and cleaning, split the salmon, and di-
vide into such pieces as you choose, lay it in the kettle
to fill the bottom, and as much water as will cover it ;
to three quarts put a pint of vinegar, a handful of salt,
twelve bay-leaves, six blades of mace, and a quarter of
an ounce of black pepper. When the salmon is boiled
enough, drain it and put it on a clean cloth, then put
more salmon into the kettle, and pour the liquor upon
it, and so on till all is done. After this, if the pickle
be not smartly flavoured with the vinegar and salt, add
more, and boil it quick three quarters of an hour.
When all is cold, pack the fish in something deep, and
let there be enough of pickle to plentifully cover. Pre-
serve it from the air. The liquor must be drained from
the fish, and occasionally boiled and skimmed.
Salmon collared.
Split such a part of the fish as may be sufficient to
make a handsome roll, wash and wipe it, and having
mixed salt, white pepper, pounded mace, and Jamaica
I'isn.
9
pepper, in quantity to season it very high, rub it inside
and out well. Then roll it tight and bandage it, put
as much water and one-third vinegar as will cover it,
with bay-leaves, salt, and both sorts of pepper. Cover
jclose, and simmer till done enough. Drain and boil
quick the liquor, and put on when cold. Serve with
fennel. It is an elegant dish, and extremely good.
COD.
Some people boil the cod whole ; but a large head
and shoulders contain all the fish that is proper to help,
the thinner parts being overdone and tasteless, before
the thick are ready. But the whole fish may be pur-
chased at times more reasonably ; and the lower half,
if sprinkled and hung up, will be in high perfection one
or two days. Or it may be made salter, and served
with egg-sauce, potatoes, and parsnips.
Cod when small is usually very cheap. If boiled
quite fresh it is watery ; but eats excellently if salted
and hung up for a day, to give it firmness, then stuffed,
and broiled, or boiled.
Cod's Head and Shoulders
Will eat much finer by having a litttle salt rubbed down
the bone, and along the thick part, even if to be eaten
the same day.
Tie it up, and put it on the fire in cold water which
will completely cover it ; throw a handful of salt into
it. Great care must be taken to serve it without the
smallest speck of black or scum. Garnish with a large
quantity of double parsley, lemon, horse-radish, and
the milt, roe, and liver, and fried smelts if approved.
If with smelts, be careful that no water hangs about
the fish ; or the beauty of the smelts will be taken off,
as well as their flavour.
Serve with plenty of oyster or shrimp sauce, and an-
chovy and butter.
10
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Crimp Cod.
Boil, broil, or fry.
Cod Sounds boiled.
Soak them in warm water half an hour, then scrape
and clean; and if to be dressed white, boil them in milk
and water ; when tender, serve them in a napkin, with
egg-sauce. The salt must not be much soaked out, un-
less for fricassee.
Cod Sounds to look like small Chickens.
A good maigre-day dish. Wash three large sounds
nicely, and boil in milk and water, but not too tender ;
when cold, put a forcemeat of chopped oysters, crumbs
of bread, a bit of butter, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and
the yolks of two eggs : spread it thin over the sounds,
and roll up each in the form of a chicken, skewering it;
then lard them as you would chickens, dust a little
flour over, and roast them in a tin oven slowly. When
done enough, pour over them a tine oyster-sauce. Serve
for side or corner dish.
To broil Cod Sounds.
Scald in hot water, rub well with salt, pull off the
dirty skin, and put them to simmer till tender : take
them out, flour, and broil. While this is being done,
season a little brown gravy with pepper, salt, a tea-
spoonful of soy, and a little mustard : give it a boil
with a bit of flour and butter, and pour it over the
sounds.
Cod Sounds ragout.
Prepare as above ; then stew them in white gravy
seasoned, cream, butter, and a little bit of flour added
before you serve, gently boiling up. A bit of lemon-
peel, nutmeg, and the least pounded mace, should give
the flavour.
Currie of Cod
Should be made of sliced cod, that has either been
crimped or sprinkled a day, to make it firm. Fry it of
FISH. 1 1
a fine brown with onions ; and stew it with a good white
gravy, a little currie powder, a bit of butter and flour,
three or four spoonfuls of rich cream, salt, and Cayenne,
if the powder be not hot enough.
To dress salt Cod.
Soak and clean the piece you mean to dress, then lay
it all night in water, with a glass of vinegar. Boil it
enough, then break it into flakes on the dish; pour over
it parsnips boiled, beaten in a mortar, and then boiled
up with cream and a large piece of butter rubbed with a
bit of flour. It may be served as above with egg-sauce
instead of the parsnip, and the root sent up whole ; or
the fish may be boiled and sent up without flaking, and
sauces as above.
STURGEON.
To dress fresh Sturgeon.
Cut slices, rub egg over them, then sprinkle with
crumbs of bread, parsley, pepper, salt : fold them in
paper, and broil gently.
Sauce, butter, anchovy, and soy.
To roast Sturgeon.
Put it on a lark-spit, then tie it on a large spit; baste
it constantly with butter ; and serve with a good gravy,
an anihovy, a squeeze of Seville orange or lemon, and a
glass of sherry.
Another.
Put a piece of butter, rolled in flour, into a stew-pan
with four cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, two onions,
some pepper and salt, half a pint of water, and a glass
of vinegar. Stir it over the fire till hot; then let it be-
come lukewarm, and steep the fish in it an hour or two.
Butter a paper well, tie it round, and roast it without
letting the spit run through. Serve with sorrel and an-
chovy-sauce.
An excellent Imitation of p idled Sturgeon.
Take a fine large turkey, but not old ; pick it very
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
12
nicely, singe, and make it extremely clean ; bone and
wash it, and tie it across and across with a bit of mat-
string washed clean. Put into a very nice tin saucepan
a quart of water, a quart of vinegar, a quart of white
(but not sweet) wine, and a very large handful of salt ;
boil and skim it well, then boil the turkey. When
done enough tighten the strings, and lay upon it a dish
with a weight of two pounds over it.
Boil the liquor half an hour; and when both are cold,
put the turkey into it. This will keep some months,
and eats more delicately than sturgeon ; vinegar, oil,
and sugar, are usually eaten with it. If more vinegar
or salt should be wanted, add when cold. Send fennel
over it to table.
Tliornbach and Skate
Should be hung one day at least before they are dress-
ed; and may be served either boiled, or fried in crumbs,
being first dipped in egg.
Crimp Skate.
Boil and send up in a napkin : or fry as above.
Maids
Should likewise be hung one day at least. They may
be broiled or fried ; or, if a tolerable size, the middle
may be boiled and the fins fried. They should be dip-
ped in egg, and covered with crumbs.
Boiled Carp.
Serve in a napkin, and ■with the sauce which you will
find directed for it under the article Stewed Carp.
Stewed Carp.
Scale and clean, take care of the roe, &c. lay the fish
in a stew-pan, with a rich beef-gravy, an onion, eight
cloves, a desert spoonful of Jamaica pepper, the same
of black, a fourth part of the quantity of gravy or port,
(cyder may do ;) simmer close covered ; when nearly
done add two anchovies chopped fine, a desert spoonful
of made mustard, and some fine walnut ketchup, a bit
FISH.
13
of butter rolled in flour, shake it, and let the gravy boil
a few minutes. Serve with sippets of fried bread, the
roe fried, and a good deal of horse-radish and lemon.
Baked Carp.
Clean a large carp; put a stuffing as for soals, dressed
in the Portuguese way. Sew it up; brush it all over
with yolk of egg, and put plenty of crumbs ; then drop
oiled butter to baste them ; place the carp in a deep
earthen dish, a pint of stock (or, if fast day, fish stock)
a few sliced onions, some bay-leaves, a faggot of herbs,
(such as basil, thyme, parsley, and both sorts of mar-
joram) half a pint of port wine, and six anchovies.
Cover over the pan, and bake it an hour. Let it be
done before it is wanted. Pour the liquor from it, and
keep the fish hot while you heat up the liquor with a
good piece of butter rolled in flour, a tea-spoonful of
mustard, a little Cayenne, and a spoonful of soy. Serve
the fish on the dish, garnished with lemon, and parsley,
and horse-radish, and put the gravy into the sauce-
tureen.
Perch and Tench.
Put them into cold water, boil them carefully, and
serve with melted butter and soy. Perch are a most
delicate fish. They may be either fried or stewed, but
in stewing they do not preserve so good a flavour.
To fi~y Trout and Grayline.
Scale, gut, and well wash ; then dry them, and lay
them separately on aboard before the fire, after dusting
some flour over them. Fry them of a fine colour with
fresh dripping ; serve with crimp parsley, and plain
butter.
Perch and Tench may be done the same way.
Trout-a-la- Genevoisc.
Clean the fish very well ; put it into your stewpan,
adding half Champaign and half Moselle, or Khenish,
or Sherry wine. Season it with pepper, salt, an onion,
14 DOMESTIC COOKERY,
a few cloves stuck in it, and a small bunch of parsley
and thyme: put in it a crust of French bread; set it on
a quick fire. When the fish is done, take the bread out,
bruise it, and then thicken the sauce ; add flour and a
little butter, and let it boil up. See that your sauce is
of a proper thickness. Lay your fish on the dish, and
pour the sauce over it. Serve it with sliced lemon and
fried bread.
MACKEREL.
Boil, and serve with butter and fennel.
To broil them, split, and sprinkle with herbs, pepper,
and salt ; or stuff with the same, crumbs, and chopped
fennel.
Collared, as Eel, page 18.
Potted : clean, season, and bake them in a pan with
spice, bay-leaves, and some butter ; when cold, lay
them in a potting-pot, and cover with butter.
Picked : boil them, then boil some of the liquor, a
few peppers, bay-leaves, and some vinegar ; when cold,
pour it over them.
Pickled Mackerd, called Caveacli.
Clean and divide them ; then cut each side into three,
or leaving them undivided, cut each fish into five or six
pieces. To six large mackerel, take near an ounce of
pepper, two nutmegs, a little mace, four cloves and a
handful of salt, all in the finest powder; mix, and
making holes in each bit of fish, thrust the seasoning
into them, rub each piece with some of it ; then fry
them brown in oil; let them stand till cold, then put
them into a stone-jar, and cover with vinegar ; if to
keep long, pour oil on the top. Thus done, they may
be preserved for months.
Bed Mullet.
It is called the Sea-Woodcock. Clean but leave the
inside, fold in oiled paper, and gently bake in a small
dish. Make a sauce of the liquor that comes from the
FTSII.
15
fish, with a piece of butter, a little flour, a little essence
of anchovy, and a glass of sherry. Give it a boil; and
serve in a boat, and the fish in the paper cases.
To dress Pipers.
Boil, or hake them with a pudding well seasoned. —
If baked, put a large cup of rich broth into the dish ;
and when done, take that, some essence of anchovy,
and a squeze of lemon, and boil them up together for
sauce.
To bake Pike.
Scale it, and open as near the throat as you can, then
stuff it with the following; grated bread, herbs, ancho-
vies, oysters, suet, salt, pepper, mace, half a pint of
cream, four yokes of eggs; mix all over the fire till it
thickens, then put it into the fish, and sew it up ; butter
should be put over it in little bits; bake it. Serve sauce
of gravy, butter, and anchovy. Note : if in helping
a pike, the back and belly are slit up, and each slice
gently drawn downwards, there will be fewer bones
given.
HADDOCK.
Boil or broil with stuffing as under, having sailed them
a day.
To dry Haddock.
Choose them of two or three pounds weight : take out
the gills, eyes, and entrails, and remove the blood from
the backbone. Wipe them dry, and put some salt into
the bodies and eyes. Lay them on a board for a night ;
then hang them up in a dry place, and after three or
four days they will be fit to eat; skin and rub them
with egg ; and strew crumbs over them. Lay them be-
fore the tire, and baste with butter until brown enough.
Serve with egg-sauce.
]Vhitings, if large are excellent this way; and it will
prove an accommodation in the country where there is
no regular supply of fish.
1C
DOM ESTI C COO K EUY.
Stuffing for Pike, Haddock, and small Cod.
Take equal parts of fat bacon, beef-suet, and fresh
butter, some parsley, thyme, and savour}' ; a little
onion, and a few leaves of scented marjoram shred fine;
an anchovy or two ; a little salt and nutmeg, and some
pepper. Oysters will be an improvement with or with-
out anchovies ; add crumbs, and an egg to bind.
SOLES.
If boiled, they must be served with great care to
look perfectly white, and should be much covered with
parsley.
If fried, dip in egg, and cover them with fine crumbs
of bread; set on a frying-pan that is just large enough,
and put into it a large quantity of fresh lard or dripping,
boil it, and immediately slip the fish into it; do them of
a fine brown. See to fry, page 13.
Soles that have been fried eat good cold with oil, vine-
gar, salt, and mustard.
Stewed Soles.
Do as carp, page 12.
Soles another way.
Take two or three soles, divide them from the back-
bone, and take off the head, fins and tail. Sprinkle
the inside with salt, roll them up tight from the tail end
upwards, and fasten with small skewers. If large or
middling, put half a fish in each roll ; small do not an-
swer. Dip them into yolks of eggs, and cover them
with crumbs. Do the egg over them again, and then
put more crumbs ; and fry them a beautiful colour in
lard, or for fast-day in clarified butter.
Soles in the Portuguese way.
Take one large or two small : if large, cut the fish in
two; if small, they need only be split. The bones be-
ing taken out, put the fish into a pan with a bit of but-
ter and some lemton juice, give it a fry, then lay the
fish on a dish, and spread a forcemeat over each piece,
FISH. ]7
and roll it round, fastening the roll with a few small
skewers. Lay the rolls into a small eartheu pan, beat
an egg and wet them, then strew crumbs over; and put
the remainder of the egg, with a little meat gravy, a
spoonful of caper-liquor, an anchovy chopped fine, and
some parsley chopped into the bottom of the pan; cover
it close, and bake till the fish are done enough in a slow
oven. Then place the rolls in the dish for serving, and
cover it to keep them hot till the gravy baked is skim-
ed; if not enough, a little fresh, flavoured as above,
must be prepared and added to it.
P oiiuguese stuffing for Soles baked.
Pound cold beef, mutton or veal, a little; then add
some fat bacon that has been lightly fried, cut small,
and some onions, a little garlick or shalot, some parslev,
anchovy, pepper, salt and nutmeg; pound all fine with
a few crumbs, and bind it with two or three yolks of
eggs-
The heads of the fish are to be left on one side of the
split part, and kept, on the outer side of the roll ; and
when served, the heads are to be turned towards each
other in the dish.
Garnish with fried or dried parsley.
An excellent way of dressing a large Plaice, especial h/ if
there be a roe.
Sprinkle with salt, and keep twenty-four hours; then
wash and wipe it dry, wet over with egg, cover with
crumbs of bread; make some lard or fine dripping, and
two large spoonfuls of vinegar, boiling hot; lay the fish
in, and fry it a fine colour, drain it from the fat, and
serve with fried parsley round, and anchovy-sauce. You
may dip the fish in vinegar, and not put it into the pan.
To fry Smelts.
They should not be washed more than is necessary to
clean them. Dry them in a cloth ; then lightly Hour
1)
IfS domestic cookery.
them, but shake it off. Dip them into plenty of egg,
then into bread-crumbs grated fine, and plunge them into
a good pan of boiling bird-, let them continue gently boil-
ing, and a few minutes will make them a bright yellow-
brown. Take care not to take off the light roughness
of the crumbs, or their beauty will be lost.
EELS.
Spitchcock Eds.
Take one or two large eels, leave the skin on, cut
them into pieces of three inches long, open them on the
belly side, and clean them nicely : wipe them dry, and
then wet them with beaten egg, and strew over on both
sides chopped parsley, pepper, salt, a very little sage,
and a bit of mace pounded tine and mixed with the sea-
soning. Rub the gridiron with a bit of suet, and broil
the fish of a fine colour.
Serve with anchovy and butter for sauce.
Fried Eels.
If small, they should be curled round and fried, being
first dipped into egg and crumbs of bread.
Boiled Eels.
The small ones are best: do them in a small quantity
of water, with a good deal of parsley, which should be
served up wfith them and the liquor.
Serve chopped parsley and butter for sauce.
Eel Broth, very nourishing for the sick.
Do as above ; but stew two hours, and add an onion
and pepper-corns : salt to taste.
Collared Eel.
Bone a large eel, but don't skin it : mix pepper, salt,
mace, allspice, and a clove or two, in the finest powdei,
and rub over the whole inside ; roll it tight, and bind
with a coarse tape. Boil in salt and water till enough,
then add vinegar, and when cold keep the collar in
pickle. Serve it either whole or in slices. Chopped
sage, parsley, and a little thyme; knotted marjoram,
FISH. 19
and savour}’, mixed with the spices, greatly improve
the taste.
To stew Lamprey as at Worcester.
After cleaning the fish carefully, remove the cartilage
which runs down the back, and season with a small
quantity of cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and all-
spice ; put it into a small stew-pot, with very strong
heef gravy, port, and an equal quantity of Madeira, or
sherry.
It must be covered close ; stew till tender, then take
out the lamprey and keep hot, while you boil up the
liquor with two or three anchovies chopped, and some
hour and butter; strain the gravy through a sieve, and
add lemon-juice and some made mustard. Serve with
sippets of bread and horse-radish.
Eels, done the same way, are a good deal like the
lamprey. When there is spawn, it must be fried and
put round.
Note. — Cyder will do in common instead of white-
wine.
FLOUNDERS.
Let them be rubbed with salt inside and out, and lie
two hours to give them some firmness. Dip them into
egg; cover with crumbs, and fry them.
Water Soucliy.
Stew two or three bounders, some parsley-leaves and
roots, thirty pepper-corns, and a quart of water, till the
fish are boiled to pieces ; pulp them through a sieve. Set
over the fire the pulped fish, the liquor that boiled them,
some perch, tench, or bounders, and some fresh leaves
and roots of parsley; simmer all till done enough, then
serve in a deep dish. Slices of bread and butter are to
be sent to table, to eat with the souchy.
HERRINGS AND SPRATS.
To Smoke Herrings.
Clean, and lay them in salt and a little saltpetre one
20 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
niglit; then hang them on a stick, through the eyes, in
a row. Have ready an old cask, on which put some
sawdust, and in the midst of it a heater red-hot; fix the
stick over the smoke, and let them remain twenty-four
hours.
Fried Herrings.
Serve them of a light brown, with onions sliced and
fried.
Broiled Herrings.
Flour them first, and do of a good colour : plain but-
ter for sauce.
Potted Herrings
Are very good done like Mackerel, see page 14.
To dress Red Herrings.
Choose those that are large and moist, cut them open,
and pour some boiling small beer over them to soak half
an hour; drain them dry, and make them just hot
through before the fire, then rub some cold butter over
them and serve. Egg-sauce, or buttered eggs and
mashed potatoes, should be sent up with them.
Baked Herrings or Sprats.
Wash and drain without wiping them; season with
allspice in fine powder, salt, and a few whole cloves ;
lay them in a pan with plenty of black pepper, an onion,
and a few bay-leaves. Add half vinegar and half small
beer, enough to cover them. Put paper over the pan,
and bake in a slow oven. If you like, throw saltpetre
over them the night before, to make them look red.
Gut, but do not open them.
Sprats,
When cleaned, should be fastened in rows h v a skewer
run through the heads, and then broiled and served hot
and hot.
LOBSTERS AND SHRIMPS.
To pot Lobsters.
Half-boil them, pick out the meat, cut it into small
FISH.
21
bits, season with mace, white pepper, nutmeg, and salt,
press close into a pot and cover with butter, bake half
an hour; put the spawn in. When cold take the lobster
out, and put it into the pots with a little of the butter.
Beat the other butter in a mortar with some of the
spawn; then mix that coloured butter with as much
as will be sufficient to cover the pots, and strain it.
Cayenne may be added, if approved.
Another toay to pot Lobsters.
Take out the meat as whole as you can ; split the tail
and remove the gut; if the inside be not watery, add
that. Season with mace, nutmeg, white pepper, salt,
and a clove or two, in the finest powder. Lay a little
fine butter at the bottom of the pan, and the lobster
smooth over it, with bay-leaves between; cover it with
butter, and bake gently. When done, pour the whole
on the bottom of a sieve; and with a fork lay the pieces
into potting-pots, some of each sort, with the seasoning
about it. When cold," pour clarified butter over, but
not hot. It will be good next day; or highly seasoned,
and thick covered with butter, will keep some time.
Potted lobster may be used cold, or as a fricassee,
with a cream-sauce : it then looks very nicely and eats
excellently, especially if there is spawn.
Mackerel , Herrings, and Trout, are good potted as
above.
Steiced Lobster, a very high Relish.
Pick the lobster, put the berries into a dish that has
a lamp, and rub them down with a bit of butter, two
spoonfuls of any sort of gravy, one of soy, or walnut-
ketchup, a little salt and Cayenne, and a spoonful of
port ; stew the lobster cut into bits with the gravy as
above.
Buttered Lobsters.
Pick the meat out, cut it, and warm with a little
weak brown gravy, nutmeg, salt, pepper, and butter,
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
22
with a little flour. If done white, a little white gravy
and cream.
To roast Lobsters.
When you have half boiled the lobster, take it out of
the water, and, while hot, rub it with butter and lay it
before the fire. Continue basting it with butter till it has
a fine froth.
Currie o f Lobsters, or Prawns.
Take them from the shells, and lay into a pan, with
a small piece of mace, three or four spoonfuls of veal-
gravy, and four of cream : rub smooth one or two tea-
spoonfuls of currie-powder, a tea-spoonful of flour, and
an ounce of butter; simmer an hour; squeeze half a
lemon in, and add salt.
Prawns and Cray-fish in jelly, a beautiful dish.
Make a savoury fish jelly, and put some into the bot-
tom of a deep small dish : when cold, lay the cray-fish
with their back downwards, and pour more jelly over
them. Turn out when cold.
■To butter Praivns or Shrimps.
Take them out of the shells; and warm them with a
little good gravy, a bit of butter and flour, a scrape of
nutmeg, salt, and pepper; simmer a minute or two, and
serve with sippets; or with a cream-sauce, instead of
brown.
To pot Shrimps.
When boiled, take them out of the skins, and season
them with salt, white pepper and a very little mace and
cloves. Press them into a pot, set it in the oven ten
minutes, and when cold put butter.
CRABS.
Hot Crab.
Pick the meat out of a crab, clear the shell from the
head, then put the meat with a little nutmeg, salt, pep-
per, a bit of butter, crumbs of bread, and three spoon
FISH. 23
fills of vinegar, into the shell again, and set it before
the fire. You may brown it with a salamander.
Dry toast should be served to eat it upon.
Dressed Crab cold.
Empty the shells, and mix the flesh with oil, vinegar,
salt, and a little white pepper and Cayenne ; then put
the mixture into the large shell, and serve. Very little
oil is necessary.
OYSTERS.
To feed Oysters.
Put them into water, and wash them with a birch
besom till quite clean ; then lay them bottom-down-
wards into a pan, sprinkle with flour or oatmeal and
salt, and cover with water. Do the same every day,
and they will fatten. The water should be pretty salt.
To stew Oysters.
Open and separate the liquor from them, then wash
them from the grit; strain the liquor, and put wTith the
oysters a bit of mace and lemon-peel, and a few white
peppers. Simmer them very gently, and put some
cream, and a little flour and butter.
Serve with sippets.
Boiled Oysters
Eat well. Let the shells be nicely cleaned first ; and
serve in them, to eat with cold butter.
To scallop Oysters.
Put them with crumbs of bread, pepper, salt, nut-
meg, and a bit of butter, into scallop-shells or saucers,
and bake before the fire in a Dutch oven.
Fried Oysters, to garnish boiled Fish.
Make a batter of Hour, milk, and eggs, season it a
very little, dip the oysters into it, and fry them a fine
yellow-brown. A little nutmeg should be put into the
seasoning, and a few crumbs of bread into the flour.
Oyster Sauce.
See Sauces.
24
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Oyster Loaves.
Open them, and save the liquor; wash them in it;
then strain it through a sieve, and put a little of it into
a tosser, with a bit of butter and flour, white pepper, a
scrape of nutmeg, and a little cream. Stew them, and
cut in dice; put them into rolls sold for the purpose.
Oyster Patties.
See Patties.
To pickle Oysters.
Wash four dozen of the largest oysters you can get in
their own liquor, wipe them dry, strain the liquor off,
adding to it a desert-spoonful of pepper, two blades of
mace, a table-spoonful of salt, if the liquor be not very
salt, three of white wine, and four of vinegar. — Simmer
the oysters a few minutes in the liquor, then put them
in small jars, and boil the pickle up, skim it, and when
cold, pour over the oysters : cover close.
Another way to pickle Oysters.
Open the number }'ou inteud to pickle, put them into
a sauce-pan with their own liquor for ten minutes, sim-
mer them very gently; then put them into a jar, one by
one, that none of the grit may stick to them, and cover
them when cold with the pickle thus made. — Boil the
liquor with a bit of mace, lemon-peel, and black pep-
pers, and to every hundred put two spoonfuls of the
best undistilled vinegar.
They should be kept in small jars, and tied close with
bladder, for the air will spoil them.
Note. — Directions for making Fisk Pics will be found
under the head Pies.
ml: AT.
PART II.
MEATS.
To choose Meats.
Venison. — If the fat be clear, bright, and thick, and
the cleft part smooth and close, it is young; but if the
cleft is wide and tough, it is old. To judge of its sweet-
ness, run a very sharp narrow knife into the shoulder
or haunch, and you will know by the scent. Few peo-
ple like it when it has much of the haut-gout.
Beef. — If the flesh of ox-beef is young, it will have a
fine smooth open grain, be of a good red, and feel ten-
der. The fat should look white rather than yellow ; for
when that is of a deep colour, the meat is seldom good;
beef fed by oil-cakes is in general so, and the flesh is
flabby. The grain of cow-beef is closer, and the fat
whiter, than that of ox-beef ; but the lean is not of so
bright a red. The grain of bull-beef is closer still, the
fat hard and skinny, the lean of a deep red, and a
stronger scent. Ox-beef is the reverse. Ox-beef is the
richest and largest ; but in small families, and to some
tastes, heifer-beef is better if finely fed. In old meat
there is a streak of horn in the ribs of beef : the harder
this is the older; and the flesh is not finely flavoured.
Veal. — The flesh of a bull-calf is firmest, but not so
white. The fillet of the cow-calf is generally preferred
for the udder. The whitest is not the most juicy, having
been made so by frequent bleeding and having had
whiting to lick. Choose the meat of which the kidney
is well covered with a white thick fat. If the bloody
vein in the shoulder looks blue, or of a bright red, it is
newly killed; but any other colour shews it stale. The
other parts should be dry and white ; if clammy or
2G
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
spotted, tlie meat is stale and bad. The kidney turns
first in the loin, and the suet will not then be firm.
Mutton. — Choose this by the fineness of its grain,
good colour, and firm white fat. It is not the better
for being you ng ; if of a good breed and well fed, it is
better for age; but this only holds with wether-mutton :
the flesh of the ewe is paler, and the texture finer.
Ram-mutton is very strong-flavoured, the flesh is of a
deep red, and the fat is spongy.
Lamb.— Observe the neck of a fore-quarter : if the
vein is bluish, it is fresh ; if it has a green or yellow
cast, it is stale. In the hind-quarter, if there is a faint
smell under the kidney, and the knuckle is limp, the
meat is stale. If the eyes are sunk, the head is not
fresh. Grrass-lamb comes into season in April or May,
and continues till August. House-lamb may be had in
great towns almost all the year, but is in highest per-
fection in December and January.
Pork. — Pinch the lean, and if young it will break.
If the rind is tough, thick, and cannot easily be im-
pressed by the finger, it is old. A thin rind is a merit
in all pork. When fresh, the flesh will be smooth and
cool ; if clammy, it is tainted. What is called measly
pork is very unwholesome ; and may be known by the
fat being full of kernels, which in good pork is never
the case. Pork fed at still-houses does not answer for
curing any way, the fat being spongy. Dairy-fed pork
is the best.
Bacon. — If the rind is thin, the fat firm, and of a red
tinge, the lean tender, of a good colour, and adhering to
the bone, you may conclude it good, and not old. If
there are yellow streaks in it, it is going, if not already
rusty.
Hams. — Stick a sharp knife under the bone ; if it
comes out with a pleasant smell, the ham is good ; but
if the knife is daubed and has a bad scent, do not buy
MEAT.
27
it. Hams short in the hock are best, and long-legged
pigs are not to be chosen for any preparation of pork.
Brawn. — The horny part of young brawn will feel
moderately tender, and the flavour will be better ; the
rind of old will be hard.
Observations on purchasing, beeping, and dressing
Meat.
In every sort of provisions, the best of the kind goe3
farthest ; it cuts out with most advantage, and affords
most nourishment. Round of beef, fillet of veal, and
leg of mutton, are joints that bear a higher price; but
as they have more solid meat, they deserve the prefer-
ence. It is worth notice, however, that those joints
which are inferior may be dressed as palatably : and
being cheaper, they ought to be bought in turn ; for,
when they are weighed with the prime pieces, it makes
the price of these come lower.
In loins of meat, the long pipe that runs by the bone
should be taken out, as it is apt to taint ; as also the
kernels of beef. Rumps and edge bones of beef are
often bruised by the blows the drovers give the beasts,
and the part that has been struck always taints : there-
fore do not purchase these joints if bruised.
The shank-bones of mutton should be saved ; and,
after soaking and brushing, may be added to give rich-
ness to gravies or soups. They are also particularly
nourishing for sick persons.
When sirloins of beef, or loins of veal or mutton,
come in, part of the suet may be cut off for puddings,
or to clarify.
Dripping will baste every thing as well as butter, ex-
cept fowls and game ; and for kitchen pies, nothing else
should be used.
The fat of a neck or loin of mutton makes a far lighter
pudding than suet.
Meat and vegetables that the frost has touched, should
28 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
be soaked in cold water two or three hours before used,
or more if they are much iced. Putting them into hot
water, or to the fire, till thawed, makes it impossible
for any heat to dress them properly afterwards.
In warm weather, meat should be examined well
when it comes in ; and if flies have touched it, the part
must be cut off, and then well washed. In the height
of summer, it is a very safe way to let meat that is to
be salted lie an hour in very cold water, rubbing well
any part likely to have been fly-blown ; then wipe it
quite dry, and have salt read)', and rub it thoroughly in
every part, throwing a handful over it besides. Turn it
every day, and rub the pickle in, which will make it
ready for the table in three or four days ; if to be very
much corned, wrap it in a well-floured cloth, after rub-
bing it with salt. This last method will corn fresh beef
fit for the table the day it comes in, but it must be put
into the pot when the water boils.
If the weather permit, meat eats much better for
hanging two or three days before it is salted.
The water in which meat has been boiled makes an
excellent soup for the poor, by adding to it vegetables,
oatmeal, or peas.
Roast-beef-bones, or shank-bones of ham, make fine
peas-soup; and should be boiled with the peas the day
before eaten, that the fat may be taken off.
In some families great loss is sustained by the spoiling
of meat. The best way to keep what is to be eaten uu-
salted, is, as before directed, to examine it well, wipe
it every day, and put some pieces of charcoal over it.
If meat is brought from a distance in warm weather,
the butcher should be ordered to cover it close, and
bring it early in the morning ; but even then, if it is
kept on the road while lie serves the customers who
live nearest to him, it will very likely be fly-b lowu.
This happens often in the country.
M RAT.
Wash all meat before 5'ou dress it ; if for boiling,
the colour will be better for soaking ; but if lor roast-
ing, dry it.
Boiling in a well-floured cloth will make meat white.
Particular care must be taken that the pot is well
skimmed the moment it boils, otherwise the foulness
will be dispersed over the meat. The more soups or
broth are skimmed, the better and cleaner they will be.
The boiler and utensils should be kept delicately
clean.
Put the meat into cold water, and flour it well first.
Meat boiled quick will be hard ; but care must be taken
that in boiling slow it does not stop, or the meat will
be underdone.
If the steam is kept in, the water will not lessen
m uch ; therefore when you wish it to boil away, take
off the cover of the soup-pot.
Vegetables should not be dressed with the meat, ex-
cept carrots or parsnips with boiled beef.
As to the length of time required for roasting and
boiling, the size of the joint must direct ; as also the
strength of the fire, the nearness of the meat to it, and
in boiling, the regular though slow progress it makes ;
for if the cook, when told to hinder the copper from
boiling quick, lets it stop from boiling up at all, the
usual time will not be sufficient, and the meat will be
underdone.
Weigh the meat ; and allow for all solid joints, a
quarter of an hour for every pound, and some minutes
(from ten to twenty) over, according as the family like
it done.
A ham of twenty pounds will take four hours and a
half, and others in proportion.
A tongue, if dry, takes four hours slow boiling, after
soaking : a tongue out of pickle, from two hours and a
30 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
half to three hours, or more if very large ; it must be
judged by feeling -whether it is very tender.
A leg of pork, or of lamb, takes the full allowance of
twenty minutes, above a quarter of an hour to a pound.
In roasting, beef of ten pounds will take above two
hours and a half ; twenty pounds will take three hours
and three quarters.
A neck of mutton will take an hour and a half, if
kept at a proper distance. A chine of pork, two hours.
Ihe meat should be put at a good distance from the
fire, and brought gradually nearer when the inner part
becomes hot, which will prevent its being scorched
while yet raw. Meat should be much basted ; and
when nearly none, floured to make it look frothed.
\ eal and mutton should have a little paper put over
the fat to preserve it. If not fat enough to allow for
basting, a little good dripping answers as well as butter.
The cook should be careful not to run the spit through
the best parts ; and should observe that it be well
cleaned before and at the time of serving, or a black
stain appears on the meat. In many joints the spit
will pass into the bones, and run along them for some
distance, so as not to injure the prime of the meat: and
the cook should hare leaden skewers to balance it with ;
for want of which, ignorant servants are often troubled
at the time of serving.
In roasting meat it is a very good way to put a little
salt and water into the dripping-pan, and baste for a
little while with this, before using its own fat or drip-
ping. When dry, dust it with iioiiv, and baste as usual.
Salting meat before it is put to roast draws out the
gravy : it should only be sprinkled when almost done.
Time, distance, basting often, and a clear fire of a
proper size for what is required, are the first articles of
a good cook’s attention in roasting.
Old meats do not require so much dressing as young;
VENISON.
31
not that they are sooner done, but they can be eaten
with the gravy more in.
A piece of writing-paper should be twisted round the
bone at the knuckle of a leg or shoulder of lamb, mut-
ton, or venison, when roasted, before they are served.
When you wish fried things to look as well as possi-
ble, do them twice over with egg and crumbs. Bread
that is not stale enough to grate quite fine, will not look
well. The fat you fry in must always be boiling hot
the moment the meat, fish, &c. are put in, and kept so
till finished; a small quantity never fries well.
To keep meat hot. — It is best to take it up when done,
though the company may not be come ; set the dish
over a pan of boiling water, put a deep cover over it so
as not to touch the meat, and then throw a cloth over
that. This way will not dry up the gravy.
VENISON.
To keep Venison.
Preserve the venison dry, wash it with milk and wa-
ter very clean, and dry it with clean cloths till not the
least damp remains, then dust pounded ginger over
every part, which is a good preventative against the
fly. By thus managing and watching, it will ban* a
fortnight. When to be used, wash it with a little luke-
warm water, and dry it. Pepper is likewise good to
keep it.
To dress Venison.
A haunch of buck will take three hours and a half,
or three quarters roasting : doe, only three hours and
a quarter. Venison should be rather under than over-
done.
Spread a sheet of white paper with butter, and put it
over the fat, first sprinkling it with a little salt; then lay
a coarse paste on strong paper, and cover the haunch ;
tie it with tine packthread, and set it at a distance from
the tire, which must be a good one. Baste it often; ten
32 DOMESTIC COOKERY,
minutes before serving take off the paste, draw the meat
nearer the fire, and baste it with butter and a good deal
of flour, to make it froth up well.
Gravy for it should be put into a boat, and not into
the dish (unless there is none in the venison,) and made
thus : Cut off the fat from two or three pounds of a
loin of old mutton, and set in steaks on a gridiron for
a few minutes just to brown one side; put them into a
sauce-pan with a quart of water, coyer quite close for an
hour, and simmer it gently ; then uncover it, and stew
till the gravy is reduced to a pint. Season with only
salt.
Currant-jelly sauce must be served in a boat.
Formerly pap-sauce was eaten with venison ; which,
as some still like it, it may be necessary to direct.
Grate white bread, and boil it with port wine, water,
and a large stick of cinnamon ; and when quite smooth
take out the cinnamon and add sugar. Claret may be
used for it.
Make the jelly-sauce thus. Beat some currant jelly
and a spoonful or two of port wine, and set it over the
fire till melted. Where jelly runs short put more wine,
and a lew lumps of sugar, to the jelly, and melt as
above. Serve with French beaus.
Haunch, Neck, and Shoulder, of Venison.
Roast with paste as directed above, and the same
sauce.
To stew a Shoulder of Venison.
Let the meat hang till you judge proper to dress it ;
then take out the bone, beat the meat with a rolling-pin,
lay some slices of mutton-fat, that have lain a few hours in
a little port wine, among it, sprinkle a little pepper and
allspice over it in fine powder, roll it up tight, and tie
it. Set it in a stew-pan that will only just hold it,
with some mutton of beef gravy not strong, half a pint
of port wine, and some pepper and allspice. Simmer
BEEF.
33
it close covered, and as close as you can, for three or
four hours. When quite tender, take off the tape, set
the meat on a dish, and strain the gravy over it. Serve
■with currant-jelly sauce.
This is the best way to dress this joint, unless it is
very fat, and then it should be roasted. The bone
should be stewed with it.
Breast of Venison.
Do it as the shoulder, or make it into a small pasty.
Hashed Venison
Should he warmed with its own gravy, or some without
seasoning, as before ; and only warmed through, not
boiled. If there is no fat left, cut some slices of mut-
ton fat, set it on the fire with a little port wine and
sugar, simmer till dry; then put to the hash, and it will
eat as well as the fat of the venison.
For Venison Past;/, look under the head Pastry; as
likewise an excellent imitation.
BEEF.
To keep ■ Beef.
The butcher should take out the kernels in the neck-
pieces where the shoulder-clod is taken off, two from
each round of beef ; one in the middle, which is called
the pope's eye ; the other from the flap : there is also
one in the thick flank, in the middle of the fat. If
these are not taken out, especially in the summer, salt
will be of no use for keeping the meat sweet. There is
another kernel between the rump and the edgebone.
As the butchers seldom attend to this matter, the
I cook should take out the kernels; and then rub the salt
1 well into such beef as is for boiling, and slightly sprin-
! kle that which is for roasting.
The flesh of cattle that are killed when not perfectly
cleared of food, soon spoils. They should fast twenty-
four hours in winter, and double that time in summer,
before being killed.
c
34 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
To salt Beef or Pork for eating immediately.
The piece should not weigh more than five or six
pounds. Salt it very thoroughly just before you put it
into the pot; take a coarse cloth, Hour it well, put the
meat in, and fold it up close. Put it into a pot of boil-
ing water, and boil it as long as you would any other
salt beef of the same size, and it will be as salt as if
done four or five days.
Great attention is requisite in salting meat : and in
the country, where large quantities are cured, this is of
particular importance. Beef and pork should he well
sprinkled, and a few hours afterwards hung to drain,
before it is rubbed with the salt ; which method, by
cleansing the meat from the blood, serves to keep it
from tasting strong. It should be turned every day ; and
if wanted soon, should be rubbed as often. A salting-
tub or lead may be used, and a cover to fit close. Those
who use a good deal of salt meat will find it answer
well to boil up the pickle, skim it, and when cold, pour
it over meat that has been sprinkled and drained. Salt
is so much increased in price, from the heavy duties, as
to require great care in using it ; and the brine ought
not to be thrown away, as is the practice of some, alter
once using.
To salt Beef red ; which is extremely good to eat fresh
from the pickle, or to hang to dry.
Choose a piece of beef with as little bone as you can,
(the flank is most proper,) sprinkle it, and let it drain
a day ; then rub it with common salt, saltpetre, and
bay-salt, but only a small proportion of the saltpetre,
and you may add a few grains of cochineal, all in fine
powder. Rub the pickle every day into the meat for a
week, then only turn it.
It will be excellent in eight days. In sixteen drain
it from the pickle ; and let it be smoked at the oven-
BEEF. 3/5
mouth when heated with wood, or send it to the ba-
ker's. A few days will smoke it.
A little of the coarsest sugar may be added to the salt.
It eats well, boiled tender with greens or carrots. If
to be grated as Dutch, then cut a lean bit, boil it till
extremely tender, and while hot put it under a press.
When cold fold it in a sheet of paper, and it will keep
in a dry place two or three months, ready for serving
on bread and butter.
The Dutch way to salt Beef.
Take a lean piece of beef ; rub it well with treacle or
brown sugar, and let it be turned often. In three days
wipe it, and salt it with common salt and saltpetre bea-
ten fine ; rub these well in, and turn it every day for a
fortnight. Roll it tight in a coarse cloth, and press it
under a large weight; hang it to dry in a wood-smoke,
but turn it upside down every day*. Boil it in pump-
water, and press it : it will grate or cut into shivers,
like Dutch beef.
Beef a-la-mode.
Choose a piece of a thick flank of a fine heifer or ox.
Cut into long slices some fat bacon, but quite free from
yellow; let each bit be near an inch thick : dip them
into vinegar, and then into a seasoning ready prepared
of salt, black pepper, allspice, and a clove, all in fine
powder, with parsley, chives, thyme, savoury, and
knotted marjoram, shred as small as possible, and well
mixed. With a sharp knite make holes deep enough
to let in the larding ; then rub the beef over with the
seasoning, and bind it up tight with tape. Set it in a
well-tinned pot over a fire or rather stove : three or four
onions must be fried brown and put to the beef, with two
or three carrots, one turnip, a head or two of celery,
and a small quantity of water; let it simmer gently ten
or twelve hours, or till extremely tender, turning the
meat twice.
36
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Put the gravy into a pan, remove the fat, keep the
l>eef covered, then put them together, and add a glass
of port wine. Take off the tape, and serve with the
vegetables ; or you may strain them off, and send them
up cut into dice for garnish. Onions roasted, and then
stewed with the gravy, are a great improvement. A
tea-cupful of vinegar should be stewed with the beef.
A Fricandeau of Beef.
Take a nice bit of lean beef ; lard it with bacon sea-
soned with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, and allspice. Put
it into a stew-pan with a pint of broth, a glass of white
wine, a bundle of parsley, all sorts of sweet herbs, a
clove of garlick, a slialot or two, four cloves, pepper,
and salt. When the meat is become tender, cover it
close : skim the sauce well, and strain it : set it on the
fire, and let it boil till it is reduced to a glaze. Glaze
the larded side with this, and serve the meat on sorrel-
sauce.
To stew a Rump of Beef.
Wash it well ; and season it high with pepper, Cay-
enne, salt, allspice, three cloves, and a blade of mace,
rII in fine powder. Bind it up tight, and lay it into a
pot that will just hold it. Fry three large onions
sliced, and put them to it, with three carrots, two tur-
nips, a shalot, four cloves, a blade of mace, and some
celery. Cover the meat with good beef-broth, or weak
gravy. Simmer it as gently as possible for several
hours, till quite tender. Clear off the fat : and add to
the gravy half a pint of port wine, a glass of vinegar,
and a large spoonful of ketchup; simmer half an hour,
and serve in a deep dish. Half a pint of table-beer
may be added. The herbs to be used should be burnet,
tarragon, parsley, thyme, basil, savoury, marjoram, pen-
nyroyal, knotted marjoram, and some chives if you can
get them, but observe to proportion the quantities to the
BEEF. 37
pungency of the several sorts; let there be a good hand-
ful together.
Garnish with carrots, turnips, or truffles and morels,
or pickles of different colours, cut small, and laid in
little heaps separate; chopped parsley, chives, beet- root,
&c. If, when done, the gravy is too much to fill the
dish, take only a part to season for serving, but the less
water the better ; and to increase the richness, add a
few beef-bones and shanks of mutton in stewing.
A spoonful or two of made mustard is a great im-
provement to the gravy.
Rump roasted is excellent ; but in the country it is
generally sold whole with the edgebone, or cut across
instead of lengthways as in London, where one piece is
for boiling, and the rump for stewing or roasting. This
must be attended to, the whole being too large to dress
together.
Stewed Rump another ii-ay.
Half roast it; then put it into a large pot with three
pints of water, one of small-beer, one of port wine,
some salt, three or four spoonfuls of vinegar, two of
ketchup, a bunch of sweet herbs of various kinds (such
as burnet, tarragon, parsley, thyme, basil, savoury, pen-
nyroyal, marjoram, knotted marjoram, and a leaf or two
of sage,) some onions, cloves, and Cayenne ; cover it
close, and simmer till quite tender : two or three hours
will do it. When done lay it into a deep dish, set it
over hot water, and cover it close. Skim the gravy ;
put in a few pickled mushrooms, truffles, morels, and
oysters if agreeable, but it is very good without; thicken
the gravy with flour and butter, and heat it with the
above, and pour over the beef. Forcemeat-balls of
veal, anchovies, bacon, suet, herbs, spice, bread, and
eggs, to bind, are a great improvement.
To stew Brisket of Beef.
Put the part that has the hard fat into a stew-pot
38
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
with a small quantity of water; let it boil up, and skim
it thoroughly ; then add carrots, turnips, onions, celery,
and a few pepper-corns. Stew till extremely tender ;
then take out the flat bones, and remove all the fat
from the soup. Either serve that and the meat in a
tureen ; or the soup alone, and the meat on a dish, gar-
nished with some vegetables. The following sauce is
much admired, served with the beef : — Take half a pint
of the soup, and mix it with a spoonful of ketchup, a
glass of port wine, a tea-spoouful of made mustard, a
little flour, a bit of butter, and salt : boil all together
a few minutes, then pour it round the meat. Chop ca-
pers, walnuts, red cabbage, pickled cucumbers, and
chives or parsley, small, and put in separate heaps over
it.
To press Beef.
Salt a bit of brisket, thin part of the flank, or the tops
of the ribs, with salt and saltpetre five days, then boil it
gently till extremely tender : put it under a great weight
or in a cheese-press, till perfectly cold.
It eats excellently cold, and for sandwiches.
To make Hunters' Beef.
To a round of beef that weighs twenty-five pounds,
take three ounces of saltpetre, three ounces of the coar-
sest sugar, an ounce of cloves, a nutmeg, half an ounce
of allspice, and three handfuls of common salt, all in
the finest powder.
The beef should hang two or three days : then rub
the above well into it, and turn and rub it every day
for two or three weeks. The bone must be taken out
at first. When to be dressed, dip it into cold water, to
take off the loose spice, bind it up tight with tape, and
put it into a pan with a tea-cupful of water at tire bot-
tom, cover the top of the meat with shred suet, and the
pan with a brown crust and paper, and bake it five or
six hours. When cold, take off the paste and tape.
BEEF.
39
Tlie gravy is very fine ; and a little of it adds greatly
to the flavour of any hash, soup, &c.
Both the gravy and the beef will keep some time.
The meat should be cut with a very sharp knife, and
(piite smooth, to prevent waste.
An excellent Mode of dressing Beef.
Hang three ribs three or four days ; take out the
hones from the whole length, sprinkle it with salt, roll
the meat tight, and roast it. Nothing can look nicer.
The above done with spices, &c. and baked as hunters’
beef, is excellent.
t To collar Beef.
Choose the thin end of the flank of fine mellow beef,
but not too fat; lay it into a dish with salt and saltpetre,
turn and rub it every day for a week, and keep it cool.
Then take out every bone and gristle, remove the skin
of the inside part, and cover it thick with the following
seasoning cut small : a large handful of parsley, the
same of sage, some thyme, marjoram, and pennyroyal,
pepper, salt, and allspice. Roll the meat up as tight as
possible, and bind it, then boil it gently for seven or
eight hours. A cloth must be put round before the
tape. Put the beef under a good weight while hot,
without undoing it : the shape will then be oval. Part
of a breast of veal rolled in with the beef, looks and eats
very well.
Beef-Steal-s
Should be cut from a rump that has hung a few days.
Broil them over a very clear or charcoal fire : put into
the dish a little minced shalot, and a table-spoonful of
ketchup : and rub a bit of butter on the steak the mo-
ment of serving. It should be turned often, that the
gravy may not be drawn out on either side.
This dish requires to be eaten so hot and fresh done,
that it is not in perfection if served with any thing else.
40
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Pepper and salt should be added when taking it off the
lire.
Beef-steaks and Oyster-sauce.
Strain off the liquor from the oysters, and throw them
into cold water to take off the grit, while you simmer
the liquor with a bit of mace and lemon-peel; then put
the oysters in, stew them a few minutes, and a little
cream if you have it, and some butter rubbed in a bit of
Hour ; let them boil up once ; and have rump-steaks,
well seasoned and broiled, ready for throwing the oys-
ter-sauce over, the moment you are to serve.
Staffordshire Beefsteaks.
Beat them a little with a rolling-pin, Hour and season,
then fry with sliced onion of a fine light brown; lay the
steaks into a stew-pan, and pour as much boiling water
over them as will serve for sauce: stew them very gently
half an hour, and add a spoonful of ketchup, or walnut-
liquor, before you serve.
Italian Beefsteaks.
Cut a fine large steak from a rump that has been well
hung, or it will do from any tender part : beat it, and
season with pepper, salt, and onion; lay it in an iron
stew-pan that has a cover to fit quite close, and set it
by the side of the fire without water. Take care it does
not burn, but it must have a strong heat : in two or
three hours it will be quite tender, and then serve with
its own gravy.
Beef-Collop.
Cut thin slices of beef from the rump, or any other
tender part, and divide them into pieces three inches
long; beat them with the blade of a knife, and flour
them. Fry the collops quick in butter two minutes ;
then lay them into a small stew-pan, and cover them
with a pint of gravy; add a bit of butter rubbed in flour,
pepper, salt, the least bit of shalot shred as fine as
possible, half a walnut, four small pickled cucumbers,
BKEF.
41
arid a tea-spoonful of capers cut small. Take cave that
that it does not boil; and serve the stew in a very hot
covered dish.
Beef-Palates.
Simmer them into water several hours, till they will
peel; then cut the palates into slices, or leave them
whole, as you choose; and stew them in a rich gravy
till as tender as possible. Before you serve, season
them with Cayenne, salt, and ketchup. If the gravy
was drawn clear, add also some butter and flour.
If to be served white, boil them in milk, and stew
them in a fricassee-sauce ; adding cream, butter, flour,
and mushroom-powder, and a little pounded mace.
Beef-Cakes for a side-dish of dressed Meat.
Pound some beef that is underdone with a little fat
bacon, or ham; season with pepper, salt, and a little
shalot, or garlick : mix them well ; and make into small
cakes three inches long, and half as wide and thick :
fry them a light brown, and serve them in a good thick
gravy.
To pot Beef.
Take two pounds of lean beef, rub it with saltpetre,
and let it lie one night; then salt with common salt,
and cover it with water four days in a small pan. Dry
it with a cloth, and season with black pepper; lay it
into as small a pan as will hold it, cover it with coarse
paste, and bake it five hours in a very cool oven. Put
no liquor in.
B hen cold, pick out the strings and fat; beat the
meat very fine with a quarter of a pound of fine butter
just warm, but not oiled, and as much of the gravy as
will make it into a paste ; put it into very small pots,
and cover them with melted butter.
A nother way. — Take beet that has been dressed, either
boiled or roasted; beat it in a mortar with some pepper.
42
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
salt, a few cloves, grated nutmeg, and a little fine butter
just warm.
This eats as well, but the colour is not so fine. It is
a good way for using the remains of a large joint.
To dress the Inside of a cold Sirloin of Beef
Cut out all the meat, and a little fat, into pieces a3
thick as your finger, and two inches long : dredge it
with flour; and fry in butter, of a nice brown : drain
the butter from the meat, and toss it up in a rich gravy,
seasoned with pepper, salt, anchovv, and shalot. Do
not let it boil on any account. Before you serve, add
two spoonfuls of vinegar. Garnish with crimped
parsley.
Fricassee of cold Roast- Beef.
Cut the beef into very thin slices, shred a handful of
parsley very small, cut an onion into quarters, and put
all together into a stew-pan, with a piece of butter and
some strong broth : season with salt and pepper, and
simmer very gently a quarter of an hour; then mix into
it the yolks of two eggs, a glass of port wine, and a
spoonful of vinegar; stir it quick, rub the disli with sha-
lot, and turn the fricassee into it.
To dress cold Beef that has not been done enough , called
Beef-Olives.
Cut slices half an inch thick, and four inches square;
lay on them a forcemeat of crumbs of bread, shalot, a
little suet, or fat, pepper, and salt. Roll them, and
fasten with a small skewer; put them into a stew-pan
with some gravy made of the beef-bones, or the gravy
of the meat, and a spoonful or two of water, and stew
them till tender. Fresh meat will do.
To dress the same, called Sanders.
Mince beef or mutton small, with onion, pepper, and
salt; add a little gravy; put it into scallop-shells or
saucers, making them three parts full, and fill them up
with potatoes, mashed with a little cream: put a bit of
BEEF. 43
butter on tlie top, and brown them in an oven or before
the tire, or with a salamander.
To dress the same, called Cecils.
Mince any kind of meat, crumbs of bread, a good deal
of onion, some anchovies, lemon-peel, salt, nutmeg,
chopped parsley, pepper, and a bit of butter warm, and
mix these over a fire for a few minutes; when cool
enough, make them up into balls of the size and shape
of a turkey’s egg, with an egg; sprinkle them with fine
crumbs, and then fry them of a yellow brown, and serve
with gravy as before directed for Beef-olives.
To mince Beef.
Shred the underdone part fine, with some of the fat ;
put it into a small stew-pan, with some onion or shalot
(a very little will do,) a little water, pepper, and salt :
boil it till the onion is quite soft; then put some of the
gravy of the meat to it, and the mince. Don’t let it
boil. Have a small hot dish with sippets of bread ready,
and pour the mince into it, but first mix a large spoonful
of vinegar with it : if shalot-vinegar is used, there will
be no need of the onion nor the raw shalot.
To hash Beef.
Do it the same as in the last receipt ; only the meat
is to be in slices, and you may add a spoodful of walnut-
liquor or ketchup.
Observe that it is owing to boiling hashes or minces,
that they get hard. All sorts of stews, or meat dressed
a second time, should be only simmered; and this last
only hot through.
Beef a-la-vingrette.
Cut a slice of underdone boiled beef three inches
thick, and a little fat; stew it in half a pint of water,
a glass of white wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion,
and a bay-leaf; season it with three cloves pounded,
and pepper, till the liquor is nearly wasted away, turning
44 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
it once. M hen cold, serve it. Strain off the gravy,
and mix it with a little vinegar for sauce.
Round of Beef
Should be carefully salted, and wet with the pickle
foi eight or ten days, i he bone should be cut out first,
and the beef skewered and tied up to make it quite
lound. It may be stuffed with parsley, if approved ;
in which case the holes to admit the parsley must be
made with a sharp-pointed knife, and the parsley coarse-
ly cut and stufled-in tight. As soon as it boils it should
be skimmed, and afterwards kept boiling very gently.
Rolled beef that equals Hare.
Take the inside of a large sirloin, soak it in a glass of
port wine and a glass of vinegar mixed, for forty- eight
hours; have ready a very fine stuffing, and bind it up
tight. Roast it on a hanging-spit; and baste it with a
glass of port wine, the same quantity of vinegar, and a
tea-spoonful of pounded allspice. Larding it improves
the look and flavour ; serve with a rich gravy in the dish ;
currant -jelly and melted butter, in tureens.
To roast Tongue and Udder.
After cleaning the tongue well, salt it with common
salt and saltpetre three days; then boil it, and likewise
a fine young udder with some fat to it till tolerably ten-
der; then tie the thick part of one to the thin part of
the other, and roast the tongue and udder together.
Serve them with good gravy, and currant-jelly sauce.
A lew cloves should be stuck in the udder. This is an
excellent dish.
Some people like neats’ tongues cured with the root,
in which case they look much larger; but otherwise the
root must be cut off close to the gullet, next to the
tongue, but without taking away the fat under the
tongue. The root must be soaked in salt and water,
and extremely well cleaned, before it is dressed : and
45
the tongue should be laid ia salt for a day and a night
before pickled.
To pickle longues for boiling.
Cut off the root, but leave a little of the kernel and fat.
Sprinkle some salt, and let it drain from the slime till
next day : then for each tongue mix a large spoonful of
common salt, the same of coarse sugar, and about half
as much of saltpetre ; rub it well in, and do so every
day. In a week add another heaped spoonful of salt.
If rubbed every day, a tongue will be ready in a fort-
night; but if only turned in the pickle daily, it will keep
four or five weeks without being too salt.
When you dry tongues, write the date on a parchment
and tie it on. Smoke them, or dry them plain, if you
like best.
When it is to be dressed, boil it till extremely tender :
allow five hours; and if done sooner, it is easily kept
hot. The longer kept after drying, the higher it will
be : if hard, it may require soaking three or four hours.
Another way. — Clean as above : for two tongues allow
an ounce of saltpetre, and an ounce of sal-prunella; rub
them well. In two days, after well rubbing, cover them
with common salt, turn them every day for three weeks,
then dry them, and rub over them bran and smoke them.
I n ten days they will be fit to eat. Keep in a cool dry
place.
To stew Tongue.
Salt a tongue with saltpetre and common salt for a
week, turning it every day. Boil it tender enough to
peel : when done, stew it in a moderately strong gravy;
season with soy, mushroom-ketchup, Cayenne, pounded
cloves, and salt if necessary.
Serve with truffles, morels, and mushrooms. In both
this receipt and the next, the roots must be taken off
the tongues before salting, but some fat left.
4G DOMESTIC COOKERY.
A n excellent way of doing Tongues to eat cold.
Season with common salt and saltpetre, brown sugar,
a little bay-salt, pepper, cloves, mace, and allspice, in
tine powder, for a fortnight : then take away the pickle,
put the tongue into a small pan, and lay some butter on
it; cover it with brown crust, and hake slowly till so
tender that a straw would go through it.
The thin part of tongues, when hung up to drv, grates
like hung beef, and also makes a fine addition to the
flavour of omlets.
Beef-heart. •
W ash it carefully; stuff as hare; and serve with rich
gravy, and currant-jelly sauce.
Hash with the same, and port wine.
Steieed Ox-cheek, plain.
Soak and cleanse a fine cheek the day before it is to
be eaten ; put it into a stew-pot that will cover close,
with three quarts of water; simmer it after it has first
boiled up and been well skimmed. In two hours put
plenty of carrots, leeks, two or three turnips, a bunch of
sweet herbs, some whole pepper, and four ounces of all-
spice. Skim it often; when the meat is tender, take it
out; let the soup get cold, take off the cake of fat, and
serve the soup separate or with the meat.
It should be of a fine brown: which may be done by
burnt sugar; or by frying some onions quite brown with
flour, and simmering them with it. This last way im-
proves the flavour of all soups and gravies of the brown
kind.
If vegetables are not approved in the soup, they mav
be taken out, and a small roll be toasted, or bread fried
and added. Celery is a great addition, and should al-
ways be served. Where it is not to be got, the seed of
it gives quite as good a flavour, boiled-in, and strained
off.
BEEF.
47
To dress Ooc-clieek another way.
Soak half a head three hours, and clean with plenty
of water. Take the meat off the hones, and put it into
a pan with a large onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, some
bruised allspice, pepper, and salt.
Lay the bones on the top ; pour-on two or three quarts
of water, and cover the pan close with brown paper, or
a dish that will fit close. Let it stand eight or ten hours
in a slow oven; or simmer it by the side of the fire, or
on a hot hearth. When done tender put the meat into
a clean pan, and let it get cold. Take the cake ol tat
off, and warm the head in pieces in the soup. Put
what vegetables you choose.
Marrow-hones.
Cover the top with floured cloth; boil them, and serve
with dry toast.
Tripe
May be served in a tureen, stewed with milk and onion
till tender. Melted butter for sauce.
Or fry it in small bits dipped in butter.
Or stew the thin part, cut into bits, in gravy ; thicken
with Hour and butter, and add a little ketchup.
Or fricassee it with white sauce.
Soused Tripe.
Boil the tripe, but not quite tender; then put it into
salt and water, which must be changed every day till it
is all used. When you dress the tripe, dip it into a
batter of flour and eggs, and fry it of a good brown.
Ox-feet, or Cone-heels,
May be dressed in various ways, and are very nutritious
in all.
Boil them ; and serve in a napkin, with melted but-
ter, mustard, and a large spoonful of vinegar.
Or boil them very tender, and serve them as a brown
fricassee : the liquor will do to make jelly sweet or relish-
ing, and likewise to give richness to soups or gravies.
4 a
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Or cut them into four parts, dip them into an egg,
and then flour and fry them ; and fry onions (if you like
them) to serve round. Sauce as above.
Or bake them as for mock-turtle.
Bubble and Squeak.
Boil, chop,, and fry it, with a little butter, pepper, and
salt, some cabbage, and lay on it slices of underdone
beef, lightly fried.
VEAL.
To keep Veal.
The first part that turns bad of a leg of veal, is where
the udder is skewered back. The skewer should he
taken out, and both that and the part under it wiped
every day, by which means it will keep good three or
four days in hot weather. Take care to cut out the
pipe that runs along the chine of a loin of veal, as you
do of beef to hinder it from tainting. The skirt of the
breast of veal is likewise to be taken off; and the inside
of the breast wiped and scraped, and sprinkle with a
little salt.
Leg of Veal.
Let the fillet be cut large or small as best suits the
number of your company. Take out the bone, fill the
space with a fine stuffing, and let it be skewered quite
round ; and send the large side uppermost. When half-
roasted, if not before, put a paper over the fat; and take
care to allow a sufficient time, and put it a good distance
from the fire, as the meat is very solid; serve with
melted butter poured over it. — You may pot some
of it.
Knuckle of Veal.
As few people are fond of boiled veal, it may be well
to leave the knuckle small, and take off some cutlets or
collops before it be dressed; but as the knuckle will
keep longer than the fillet, it is best not to cut off the
slices till wanted. Break the bones, to make it take
VEAL.
49
less room ; wash it well ; and put it into a sauce-pan with
three onions, a blade of mace or two, and a few pepper-
corns ; cover it with water, and simmer till quite ready.
In the mean time some macaroni should be boiled with
it if approved, or rice, or a little rice flour, to give it a
small degree of thickness ; but don’t put too much. Be-
fore it is served, add half a pint of milk and cream, and
let it come up either with or without the meat.
Or fry the knuckle with sliced onion and butter to
a good brown; and have ready peas, lettuce, onion, and
a cucumber or two, stewed in a small quantity of water
an hour; then add these to the veal; and stew it till the
meat is tender enough to eat, but not overdone. Throw
in pepper, salt, and a bit of shred mint, and serve all
together.
Shoulder of Veal.
Cut off the knuckle, for a stew or gravy. Roast the
other part with stuffing ; you may lard it. Serve with
melted butter.
The blade-bone, with a good deal of meat left on, eats
extremely well with mushroom or oyster-sauce, or
mushroom-ketchup in butter.
Neck of Veal.
Cut off the scrag to boil, and cover it with onion-
sauce. It should be boiled in milk and water. Parsley
and butter may be served with it, instead of onion-
sauce.
Or it may be stewed with whole rice, small onions,
and pepper-corns, with a very little water.
Or boiled and eaten with bacon and greens.
The best end may be either roasted, broiled as steaks,
or made into pies.
Neck of Veal a-la-braise.
Bard the best end with bacon rolled in parsley chop-
ped fine, salt, popper and nutmeg ; put it into a tosser,
D
50 domestic cookery.
and cover it with water. Put to it the scrag end, a little
lean bacon or ham, an onion, two carrots, two heads of
celery, and about a glass of Madeira wine. Stew it quick
two hours, or till it is tender, hut not too much. Strain
off the liquor : mix a little flour and butter in a stew-
pan till brown, and lay the veal in this, the upper side
to the bottom of the pan. Let it be over the fire till it
gets coloured ; then lay it into the dish, stir some of the
liquor in and boil it up, skim itnicely, andsqueeze orange
or lemon-juice into it.
Breast of Veal.
Before roasted, if large, the two ends may he taken off
and fried to stew, or the whole may be roasted. Butter
should be poured over it.
If any be left, cut the pieces into handsome sizes, put
them into a stew-pan, and pour some broth over it ; or if
vou have no broth, a little water will do : add a bunch
of herbs, a blade or two of mace, some pepper, and an
anchovy; stew it till the meat is tender, thicken with
butter and flour, and add a little ketchup; or the whole
breast may be stewed, after cutting off the two ends.
Serve the sweetbread whole upon it : which may either
be stewed, or parboiled, and then covered with crumbs, .
herbs, pepper, and salt, and browned in a Dutch-oven.
If you have a few mushrooms, truffles, and morels, stew
them with it, and serve.
Boiled breast of veal, smothered with onion-sauce, is
an excellent dish, if not old nor too fat.
To roll a Breast of Veal.
Bone it, take off the thick skin and gristle, and beat
the meat with a rolling-pin. Season it with herbs chop-
ped very fine, mixed with salt, pepper, and mace. Lay
some thick slices of fine ham ; or roll it into two or three'
calves tongues of a fine red, boiled first an hour or two'
and skinned. Bind it up tight in a cloth, and tape it.
Set it over the fire to simmer in a small quantity of water
VEAL.
51
till it is quite tender : this will take some hours. Lay
it on the dresser, with a board and weight on it till quite
cold.
Pigs’ or calves’ feet boiled and taken from the bones,
may be put in or round it. The different colours laid in
layers look well when cut ; and you may put in yolks of
eggs boiled, beet-root, grated ham, and chopped parsley,
in different parts.
Another way.
When it is cold, take off the tape, and pour over it
the liquor; which must be boiled up twice a- week, or it
will not keep.
Chump of Veal a-la-dauhe.
Cut off the chump end of the loin ; take out the edge-
bone; stuff the hollow with good forcemeat, tie it up
tight, and lay it in a stew-pan with the bone you took
out, a little faggot of herbs, an anchovy, two blades of
mace, a few white peppers, and a pint of good veal-broth.
Cover the veal with slices of fat bacon, and lay a sheet of
white paper over it. Cover the pan close, simmer it two
lion re, then take out the bacon, and glaze the veal. —
Serve it on mushrooms, or with sorrel-sauce, or what
else you please.
Veal-rolls of either cold Meat or fresh.
Cut thin slices; and spread on them a fine seasoning
of a very few crumbs, a little chopped bacon or scraped
ham, and a little suet, parsley, and shalot, (or instead of
the parsley and shalot, some fresh mushrooms stewed
and minced,) pepper, salt, and a small piece of pounded
mace.
This stuffing may either fill up the roll like a sausage,
or be rolled with the meat. In either case tie it up very
tight, and stew it very slowly in a gravy and a glass of
sherry.
Serve it when tender, after skimming it nicely.
52 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Harrico of Veal.
Take the best end of a small neck ; cut the bones
short, but leave it whole; then put it into a stew-pan
just covered with brown gravy; and when it is nearly
done, have ready a pint of boiled peas, six cucumbers
pared and sliced, and two cabbage-lettuces cut into quar-
ters, all stewed in a little good broth : put them to the
veal, and let them simmer ten minutes. When the veal
is in the dish, pour the sauce and vegetables over it, and
lay the lettuce with forcemeat-balls round it.
A Dunelm of Cold Vetd or Fowl.
Stew a few small mushrooms in their own liquor and
a bit of butter, a quarter of an hour; mince them very
small, and add them (with their liquor) to minced veal,
with also a little pepper and salt, some cream and a bit
of butter rubbed in less than half a tea-spoonful of flour.
Simmer three or four minutes, and serve on thin sippets
of bread.
Minced Veal.
Cut cold veal as fine as possible, but do not chop it.
Put to it a very little lemon-peel shred, two grates of
nutmeg, some salt, and four or five spoonfuls of either a
little weak broth, milk, or water ; simmer these gently
with the meat, but take care not to let it boil ; and add
a bit of butter rubbed in flour. Put sippets of tlmi
toasted bread, cut into a tliree-corned shape, round the
dish.
To pot Veal.
Cold fillet makes the finest potted veal ; or you may
do it as follows: ... ,
Season a large slice of the fillet before it is dressed,
with some mace, pepper-corns, and two or three cloves ;
lay it close into a potting-pan that will but just hold it,
fill it up with water, and bake it three hours ; then pound
it quite small in a mortar, and add salt to taste; put si
little gravy that was baked to it in pounding, if to be'
VEAL. 53
eaten soon ; otherwise only a little butter just melted.
When done, cover it over with butter.
To pot Veal or Chicken with Ham.
Pound some cold veal or white of chicken, seasoned
as directed in the last article, and put layers of it with
layers of ham pounded or rather shred; press each down,
and cover with butter.
Cutlets Maintenon.
Cut slices about three quarters of an inch thick, beat
them with a rolling-pin, and wet them on both sides with
egg : dip them into a seasoning of bread-crumbs, par-
sley, thyme, knotted marjoram, pepper, salt, and a little
nutmeg grated ; then put them into papers folded over,
and broil them; and have in a boat melted butter, with
a little mushroom -ketchup.
Cutlets another way.
Prepare as above, and fry them; lay them into a dish,
and keep them hot; dredge a little flour, and put a bit
of butter into the pan; brown it, then pour a little boil-
ing water into it, and boil quick: season with pepper,
salt, and ketchup, aud pour over them.
Other ways. — Prepare as before, and dress the cutlets
in a Dutch-oven; pour over them melted butter and
mushrooms.
Or pepper, salt, and broil them, especially neck-steaks.
They are excellent without herbs.
Veal Collops.
Cut long thin collops ; beat them well ; and lay on
them a bit of thin bacon of the same size, and spread
forcemeat on that, seasoned high, and also a little gar-
lick and Cayenne. Roll them up tight, about the size
of two fingers, but not more than two or three inches
long; put a very small skewer to fasten each firmly;
rub egg over; fry them of a fine brown, and pour a rich
brown gravy over.
54
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
To dress Collops quick.
Cut them as thin as paper with a very sharp knife,
and in small bits. Throw the skin and any odd bits of
the veal, into a little water, with a dust of pepper and
salt; set them on the fire while you beat the collops;
and dip them into a seasoning of herbs, bread, pepper,
salt, and a scrape of nutmeg, but first wet them in egg.
Then put a bit of butter into a frying-pan, and give the
collops a very quick fry; for as they are so thin, two
minutes will do them on both sides; put them into allot
dish before the fire; then strain and thicken the gravy,
give it a boil in the frying-pan, and pour it over the col-
lops. A little ketchup is an improvement.
Another way. — Fry them in butter, only seasoned with
salt and pepper; then simmer them in gravy either white
or brown, with bits of bacon served with them.
If white, add lemon-peel and mace, and some cream.
Scallops of cold Veal or Chicken.
Mince the meat extremely small; and set it over the
fire with a scrape of nutmeg, a little pepper and salt,
and a little cream, for a few minutes ; then put it into
the scallop-shells, and fill them with crumbs of bread,
over which put some bits of butter, and brown them
before the fire.
Either veal or chicken looks and eats well prepared
in this way, and lightly covered with crumbs of bread
fried; or these may be put on in little heaps.
Fricandeau of Veal.
Cut a large piece from the fat side of the leg, about
nine inches long and half as thick and broad ; beat it
with the rolling-pin ; take off the skin, and trim off the
rough edges. Lard the top and sides ; and cover it
with fat bacon, and then with white paper. Lay it into
the stew-pan with any pieces of undressed veal or mut-
ton, four onions, a carrot sliced, a faggot of sweet
herbs, four blades of mace, four "bay-leaves, a pint of
VEAL.
55
good veal or mutton broth, and four or five ounces of
lean bam or gammon. Cover the pan close, and let it
stew slowly three hours ; then take up the meat, re-
move all the fat from the gravy, and boil it quick to a
glaze. Keep the fricandeau quite hot, and then glaze
it; and serve with the remainder of the glaze in the
dish, and sorrel-sauce in a sauce-tureen.
A cheaper, hut equally pood, Fricandeau of Veal.
With a sharp knife cut the lean part of a large neck
from the best end, scooping it from the bones the length
of your hand, and prepare it the same way as in the last
receipt : three or four bones only will be necessary, and
they will make the gravy ; but if the prime part of the
leg is cut off, it spoils the whole.
Fricandeau another way.
Take two large round sweetbreads, and prepare them
as you would veal ; make a rich gravy with truffles,
morels, mushrooms, and artichoke-bottoms, and serve
it round.
Veal Olives .
Cut long thin collops, beat them, lay on them thin
slices of fat bacon, and over these a layer of forcemeat
seasoned high, with some shred shalot and Cayenne.
Roll them tight, about the size of two fingers, but not
more than two or three inches long; fasteu them round
wi tli a small skewer, rub egg over them, and fry them
of a light brown.
Serve with brown gravy, in which boil some mush-
rooms pickled or fresh. Garnish with halls fried.
Veal Cake.
Boil six or eight eggs hard; cut the yolks in two, and
lay some of the pieces in the bottom of the pot ; shake in
a little chopped parsley, some slices of veal and ham,
add then eggs again ; shaking in after each some chopped
parsley, with pepper and salt, till the pot is full. Then
put in water enough to cover it, and lay on it about an
56
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
ounce of butter; tie it over with a double paper, and
bake it about an hour. Then press it close together
with a spoon, and let it stand till cold.
It may be put into a small mould; and then it will
turn out beautifully for a supper or side dish.
Veal Sausages.
Chop equal quantities of lean veal and fat bacon, a
handful of sage, a little sage and pepper, and a few an-
chovies. Beat all in a mortar; and when used roll and
fry it, and serve with fried sippets, or on stewed vege-
tables, or on white collops.
Scotch Collops.
Cut veal into thin bits about three inches over, and
rather round ; beat with a rolling-pin, and grate a little
nutmeg over them; dip into the yolk of an egg, and fry
them in a little butter of a fine brown : pour the butter
off; and have ready warm to pour upon them half a pint
of gravy, a little bit of butter rubbed into a little flour,
a yolk of egg, two large spoonfuls of cream, and a bit
of salt. Don’t boil the sauce, but stir it till of a fine
thickness to serve with the collops.
To boil Calf's Head.
Clean it very nicely, and soak it in water, that it may
look very white ; take out the tongue to salt, and the
brains to make a little dish. Boil the head extremely
tender ; then strew it over with crumbs and chopped
parsley, and brown them ; or, if liked better, leave one
side plain. Bacon and greens are to be served to eat
with it.
The brains must be boiled ; and then mixed with
melted butter, scalded sage chopped, pepper, and salt.
If any of the head is left, it may be hashed next day,
and a few slices of bacon just warmed and put round.
Cold calf’s head eats well if grilled.
To hash Calf's Head.
When half-boiled, cut off the meat in slices, half an
VEAL.
57
inch thick, and two or three inches long : brown some
butter, flour, and sliced onion, and throw in the slices
with some good gravy, truffles, and morels : give it one
boil, skim it well, and set it in a moderate heat to sim-
mer till very tender.
Season with pepper, salt, and Cayenne, at first ; and
ten minutes before serving, throw in some shred parsley,
and a very small bit of taragon and knotted marjoram
cut as fine as possible ; just before you serve, add the
squeeze of a lemon. Forcemeat-balls, and bits of bacon
rolled round.
Another way. — Boil the head almost enough, and take
the meat of the best side nearly off the bone with a sharp
knife; lay this into a small dish, wash it over with the
yolk of two eggs, and cover it with crumbs, a few herbs
nicely shred, a little pepper and salt, and a grate of nut-
meg, all mixed together first. Set the dish before the
fire : and keep turning it now and then, that all parts of
the head may be equally brown. In the mean time
slice the remainder of the head and the tongue, but first
peel the tongue ; put a pint of good gravy into a pan,
with an onion, a small bunch of herbs (consisting of
parsley, basil, savoury, taragon, knotted marjoram, and
a little thyme,) a little salt and Cayenne, a shalot, a
glass of sherry, and a little oyster-liquor. Boil this for
a few minutes, and strain it upon the meat, which should
be dredged with some flour. Add some mushrooms
either fresh or pickled, a few truffles and morels, and
two spoonfuls of ketchup ; then beat up half the brains,
and put this to the rest with a bit of butter and flour.
Simmer the whole.
Beat the other part of the brains with shred lemon-
peel, a little nutmeg and mace, some parsley shred, and
an egg. Then fry it in little cakes of a beautiful yel-
low-brown. Dip some oysters into the yolk of an egg,
and do the same ; and also some relishing forcemeat-
68
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
balls made as mock turtle. Garnish with these, and
small hits of bacon just made hot before the fire.
Calf's Head fricasseed.
Clean and half-boil half a head ; cut the meat into
small bits, and put it into a tosser, with a little gravy
made of the bones, some of the water it was boiled in,
a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, and a blade of mace.
If you have any young cockerel in the house, use the
cockscombs ; but first boil them tender, and blanch
them ; or a sweetbread will do as well. Season the
gravy with a little pepper, nutmeg, and salt, rub down
some flour and butter, and give all a boil together; then
take out the herbs and onion, and add a little cup of
cream, but don’t boil it in.
Serve with small bits of bacon rolled round, and balls.
To collar Calf's- Head.
Scald the skin off a fine head, clean it nicely, and
take out the brains. Boil it tender enough to remove
the bones : then have ready a good quantity of chopped
parsley, mace, nutmeg, salt, and white pepper, mixed
well : season it high with these ; lay the parsley in a
thick layer, then a quantity of thick slices of fine ham,
or a beautiful-coloured tongue skinned, and then the
yolks of six nice yellow eggs stuck here and there about.
Roll the head quite close, and tie it up as tight as you
can. Boil it, and then lay a weight on it.
A cloth must be put under the tape, as for other
collars.
Mock Turtle.
Bespeak a calf’s head with the skin on, cut it in half,
and clean it well ; then half-boil it, take all the meat
off in square bits, break the bones of the head, and boil
them in some veal and beef broth to add to the rich-
ness. Fry some shalot in butter, and dredge-in flour
enough to thicken the gravy : stir this into the brown-
ing, and give it one or two boils; skim it carefully, and
VIC At,.
59
then put in the head ; put in also a pint of Madeira
wine, and simmer till the meat is quite tender. About
ten minutes before you serve, put in some hasil, tara-
gon, chives, parsley, Cayenne pepper, and salt, to your
taste ; also two spoonfuls of mushroom-ketchup, and
one of soy. Squeeze the juice of a lemon into the
tureen, and pour the soup upon it. Forcemeat-balls,
and small eggs.
A cheaper way. — Prepare half a calf’s head, without
the skin, as above : when the meat is cut off, break the
bones, and put them into a sauce-pan with some gravy
made of beef and veal bones, and seasoned with fried
onions, herbs, mace, and pepper. Have ready two or
three ox-palates boiled so tender as to blanch, and cut
into small pieces; to which a cow-heel, likewise cut into
pieces, is a great improvement. Brown some butter,
Hour, and onion, and pour the gravy to it; then add the
meats as above, and stew. Half a pint of sherry, an
anchovy, two spoonfuls of walnut-ketchup, the same of
mushroom-ketchup, and some chopped herbs as before.
Balls, &c.
Another. — Put into a pan a knuckle of veal, two fine
cow-heels, two onions, a few cloves, peppers, berries of
allspice, mace, and sweet herbs : cover them with water,
then tie a thick paper over the pan, and set it in an oven
for three hours. When cold, take off the fat very
nicely; cut the meat and feet into bits an inch and a
half square, remove the bones and coarse parts ; and
then put the rest on to warm, with a large spoonful of
walnut and one of mushroom-ketchup, half a pint of
sherry or Madeira wine, a little mushroom-powder,
and the jelly of the meat. When hot, if it wants any
more seasoning, add some ; and serve with hard eggs,
forcemeat-balls, a squeeze of lemon, and a spoonful of
soy.
This is a very easy way, and the dish is excellent.
GO
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Another. — Stew a pound and a half of scrag of mut-
ton, with from three pints of water to a quart; then set
the broth on, with a calf’s foot and a cow-heel, cover
the stew-pan tight, and simmer till you can cut off the
meat from the bones in proper bits. Set it on again
with the broth, a quarter of a pint of Madeira wine or
sherry, a large onion, half a tea-spoonful of Cayenne
pepper, a bit of lemon-peel, two anchovies, some sweet
herbs, eighteen oysters cut into pieces and then chopped
fine, a tea-spoonful of salt, a little nutmeg, and the
liquor of the oysters; cover it tight, and simmer three
quarters of an hour. Serve with forcemeat-balls, and
hard eggs in the tureen.
An excellent and very cheap mock turtle may be
made of two or three cow-heels baked with two pounds
and a half of gravy beef, herbs, &c. as above with cow-
heels and veal.
Calf's Liver.
Slice it, season with pepper and salt, and broil nicely:
rub a bit of cold butter on it, and serve hot and hot.
Calf's Liver roasted.
Wash and wipe it ; then cut a long hole in it, and
stuff it with crumbs of bread, chopped anchovy, herbs,
a good deal of fat bacon, onion, salt, pepper, a bit of
butter, and an egg : sew the liver up ; then lard it, or
wrap it in a veal cawl, and roast it.
Serve with a good brown gravy, and currant-jelly.
To dress the Liver and Lights.
Half-boil an equal quantity of each, then cut them in
middling-sized mince, put to it a spoonful or two of the
water that boiled it, a bit of butter, flour, salt, and pep-
per ; simmer ten minutes, and serve hot.
Sweetbreads.
ITalf-boil them, and stew them in a white gravy; add
cream, Hour, butter, nutmeg, salt, and white pepper.
Or do them in brown sauce seasoned.
PORK.
61
Or parboil them, and then cover them with crumbs,
herbs, and seasoning, and brown them in a Dutch oven.
Serve with butter, and mushroom-ketchup or gravy.
Sweetbreads roasted.
Parboil two large ones ; when cold, lard them with
bacon, and roast them in a Dutch oven. For sauce,
plain butter and mushroom-ketchup.
Sweetbread Ragout.
Cut them about the size of a walnut, wash and dry
them, then fry them of a fine brown ; pour to them a
good gravy seasoned with salt, pepper, allspice, and
either mushrooms, or mushroom-ketchup : strain, and
thicken with butter and a little flour. You may add
truffles, morels, and mushrooms.
Kidney.
Chop veal- kidney, and some of the fat ; likewise a
little leek or onion, pepper, and salt; roll it up with an
egg into balls, and fry them.
Calves’ heart stuff and roast as a beef’s heart, or
sliced, make it into a pudding, as directed for steak or
kidney pudding.
PORK, &c.
Bacon-hogs and porkers, are differently cut up.
Hogs are kept to a larger size ; the chine (or back-
bone) is cut down on each side, the whole length, and
is a prime part either boiled or roasted.
The sides of the hog are made into bacon, and the
inside is cut out with a very little meat to the bone. Oil
each side there is a large spare- rib ; which is usually
divided into two, one sweet-bone and a blade-bone.
The bacon is the whole outside, and contains a fore-
leg, and a ham ; which last is the hind-leg, but if left
with the bacon is called a gammon. There are also
griskins. Hog’s lard is the inner fat of the bacon-hog.
Pickled pork is made of the flesh of the hog, as well
as bacon.
62
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Porkers are not so old as hogs ; their flesh is whiter
and less rich, but it is not so tender. It is divided iuto
four quarters. The fore-quarter has the spring or
fore-leg, the fore-loin or neck, the spare-rib and gris-
kin. The hind has the leg and the loin.
The feet of pork make various good dishes, and
should be cut off before the legs are cured. Observe
the same of the ears.
The bacon-hog is sometimes scalded to take off the
hair, and sometimes singed. The porker is always
scalded.
To roast a Leg of Pork.
Choose a small leg of fine young pork ; cut a slit in
the knuckle with a sharp knife ; and fill the space with
sage and onion chopped, and a little pepper ahd salt.
When half-done, score the skin in slices, but don’t cut
deeper than the outer rind.
Apple-sauce and potatoes should be served to eat
with it.
To boil a Leg of Pork.
Salt it eight or ten days : when it is to be dressed,
weigh it; let it lie half an hour in cold water to make
it white ; allow a quarter of an hour for every pound,
and half an hour over, from the time it boils up ; skim
it as soon as it boils, and frequently after. Allow water
enough. Save some of it to make peas-soup. Some
broil it in a very nice cloth, floured; which gives a very
delicate look. It should be small and of a fine grain.
Serve peas-pudding and turnips with it.
Loin and Neck of Pork.
Roast them. Cut the skin of the loin across, at dis-
tances of half an inch, with a sharp pen-knife.
Shouldeis and Breasts of Pork.
Put them into pickle, or salt the shoulder as a leg :
when very nice, they may be roasted.
P011K.
63
Rolled Neck of Pork.
Bone it; put a forcemeat of chopped sage, a very few
crumbs of bread, salt, pepper, and two or three berries
of allspice, over the inside ; then roll the meat as tight
as you can, and roast it slowly, and at a good distance
at first.
Spring or Forehand of Pork.
Cut out the bone ; sprinkle salt, pepper, and sage
dried, over the inside ; but first warm a little butter to
baste it, and then flour it ; roll the pork tight, and tie
it; then roast by a hanging jack. About two hours will
do it.
Spare- Rib
Should be basted with a very little butter and a little
flour, and then sprinkled with dried sage crumbled.
Apple-sauce, and potatoes, for roasted pork.
Pork Grishin
Is usually very hard; the best way to prevent this is, to
put it into as much cold water as will cover it. and let
it boil up ; then instantly take it off, and put it into a
Dutch oven ; a very few minutes will do it. Remem-
ber to rub butter over it, and then flour it, before you
put it to the fire.
Blade-bone of Pork
Is taken from the bacon-hog; the less meat left on it in
moderation, the better. It is to be broiled ; and when
just done, pepper and salt it. Put to it a piece of but-
ter, and a tea-spoonful of mustard; and serve it covered,
quickly. This is a Somersetshire dish.
To dress Pork as Lamb.
Kill a young pig of four or five months old; cut up
the fore-quarter for roasting as you do lamb, and truss
the shank close. The other parts will make delicate
pickled pork; or steaks, pies, &c.
Pork Steaks.
Cut them from a loin or neck, and of middling thick-
64 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
ness; pepper and broil them, turning them often; when
nearly done, put on salt, rub a bit of butter over, and
serve the moment they are taken off the fire, a few at a
time.
To pickle Pork.
The quantities proportioned to the middlings of a
pretty large hog, the hams and shoulders being cut off.
Mix, and pound fine, four ounces of saltpetre, a pound
of coarse sugar, an ounce of sal-prunel, and a little
common salt : sprinkle the pork with salt, and drain it
twenty-four hours : then rub with the above ; pack the
pieces tight in a small deep tub, filling up the spaces
with common salt. Place large pebbles on the pork,
to prevent it swimming in the pickle which the salt
will produce. If kept from air, it will continue very
fine for two years.
Sausages.
Chop fat and lean of pork together; season it with
sage, pepper, and salt, and you may add two or three
berries of allspice: half fill hog’s guts that have been
soaked and made extremely clean : or the meat may be
kept in a very small pan, closely covered; and so rolled
and dusted with a very little flour before it is fried.
Serve on stewed red cabbage ; or mash potatoes put in
a form, brown with salamander, and garnish wth the
above; they must be pricked with a fork before they
are dressed, or they will burst.
An excellent Sausage to eat cold.
Season fat and lean pork with some salt, saltpetre,
black pepper, and allspice, all in fine powder, and rub
into the meat : the sixth day cut it small ; and mix with
it some shred slialot or garlick, as fine as possible
Have ready an ox-gut that has been scoured, salted, and
soaked well, and fill it with the above stuffing; tie up
the ends, and hang it to smoke as you would hams, but
first wrap it in a fold or two of old muslin. It must bo
roiuc.
do
high-dried. Some eat it without boiling, but others
like it boiled iirst. The skin should be tied in different
places, so as to make each link about eight or nine inches
long.
Spadlury's Oxford Sausages.
Chop a pound and a half of pork, and the same of
veal, cleared of skin and sinews ; add three quarters of
a pound of beef-suet; mince, and mix them; steep the
crumb of a penny-loaf in water, and mix it with the
meat, with also a little dried sage, pepper, and salt.
To scald a Sucking Pig.
The moment the pig is killed, put it into cold water
for a few minutes; then rub it over with a little resin
beaten extremely small, and put it into a pail of scald-
ing water half a minute : take it out, lay it on a table,
and pull off the hair as quickly as possible; if any part
does not come off, put it in again. When quite clean,
wash it well with warm water, and then in two or three
cold waters, that no flavour of the resin may remain.
Take off all the feet at the first joint; make a slit down
the belly, and take out the entrails; put the liver, heart,
and lights, to the feet. Wash the pig well in cold wa-
ter, dry it thoroughly, and fold it in a wet cloth to keep
it from the air.
To roast a Sucking Pig.
If you can get it when just killed, tliis is of great ad-
vantage. Let it he scalded, which the dealers usually
-do; then put some sage, crumbs of bread, salt, and
pepper, into the belly, and sew it up. Observe to
skewer the legs back, or the under part will not crisp.
Lay it to a brisk fire till thoroughly dry; then have
ready some butter in a dry cloth, and rub the pie with
it in every part. Dredge as much flour over as will
possibly lie, and do not touch it again till ready to
serve ; then scrape off the Hour very carefully with a
66 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
blunt knife, rub it well with the buttered cloth, and
take off the head -while at the fire ; take out the brains,
and mix them with the gravy that comes from the pig.
Then take it up ; and without withdrawing the spit, cut
it down the back and belly, lay it into the dish, and
chop the sage and bread quickly as fine as you can, and
raix them with a large quantity of fine melted butter
that has very little flour. Put the sauce into the dish
after the pig has been split down the back, and gar-
nished with the ears and the two jaws ; take off the
upper part of the head down to the snout.
In Devonshire it is served whole, if very small ; the
head only being cut off, to garnish as above.
Pettitoes.
Boil them, the liver, and the heart, in a small quan-
tity of water, very gently; then cut the meat fine, and
simmer it with a little of the water and the feet split,
till the feet are quite tender; thicken with a bit of but-
ter, a little flour, a spoonful of cream, and a little salt
and pepper; give it a boil up, pour it over a few sippets
of bread, and put the feet on the mince.
To make excellent Meat o f a Hog s Head.
Split the head, take out the brains, cut off the ears,
and sprinkle it with common salt for a day; then drain
it : salt it well with common salt and saltpetre three
days, then lay the salt and head into a small quantity
of water for two days. Wash it, and boil till all the
bones will come out; remove them, and chop the head.,
as quick as possible; but first skin the tongue, and take
the skin carefully off the head, to put under and oyer.
Season with pepper, salt, and a little mace or allspice-
berries. Put the skin into a small pan, press the cut
head in, and put the skin over; press it down. When
cold, it will turn out, and make a kind of brawn. If
too fat, you may put a few bits of lean pork to be pre-i
PORK. 67
pared the same way. Add salt and vinegar, and boil
these with some of the liquor for a pickle to keep it.
To roast Porker's Head.
Choose a fine young head, clean it well, and put bread
and sage as for pig ; sow it up tight, and on a string or
hanging jack roast it as a pig, and serve with the same
sauce.
To prepare Pip's Cheek for boiling.
Cut off the snout, and clean the head ; divide it, and
take out the eyes and the brains ; sprinkle the head
with salt, and let it drain twenty-four hours. Salt it
with common salt and saltpetre : let it lie eight or ten
days if to be dressed without stewing with peas, but
less if to be dressed with peas ; and it must be washed
first, and then simmered till all is tender.
To collar Pip's Head.
Scour the head and ears nicely ; take off the hair and
snout, and take out the eyes and the brain ; lay it into
water one night; then drain, salt it extremely well with
common salt and saltpetre, and let it lie five days. Boil
it enough to take out the bones ; then lay it on a dresser,
turning the thick end of one side of the head towards
the thin end of the other, to make the roll of equal
size; sprinkle it well with salt and white pepper, and
roll it with the ears ; and if you approve, put the pig’s
feet round the outside when boned, or the thin parts of
two cow-licels. Put it in a cloth, bind with a broad
tape, and boil it till quite tender; then put a good
weight upon it, and don’t take off the covering till cold.
If you choose it to be more like brawn, salt it longer,
and let the proportion of saltpetre be greater, and put in
also some pieces of lean pork ; and then cover it with
cow-heel, to look like the horn.
This may be kept either in or out of pickle of salt
and water boiled, with vinegar ; and is a very conve-
nient thing to have in the house.
68 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
If likely to spoil, slice and fry it either with or with-
out batter.
To dry Hoy's Cheelcs.
Cut out the snout, remove the brains, and split the
head, taking off the upper bone, to make the cliawl a
good shape; rub it well with salt; next day take away
the brine, and salt it again the following day : cover the
head with half an ounce of saltpetre, two ounces of bay-
salt, a little common salt, and four ounces of coaise
sugar. Let the head be often turned ; after ten days,
smoke it for a week like bacon.
To force Hog's Ears.
Parboil two pair of ears, or take some that have been
soused; make a forcemeat of an anchovy, some sage,
parsley, a quarter of a pound of suet chopped, bread-
crumbs, pepper, and only a little salt. . Mix all these
-with the yolks of two eggs; raise the skin of the upper
side of the ears, and stuff them with the above, t ry
the ears in fresh butter, of a fine colour ; then pour
away the fat, and drain them : make ready half a pint
of rich ‘gravy, with a glass of fine sherry, three tea-
spoonfuis of made mustard, a little bit of flour and but-
ter, a small onion whole, and a little pepper or Cay-
enne. Put this with the ears into a stew-pan, and cover
it close '; stew it gently for half an hour, shaking the
pan often. When done enough, take out the onion,
place the ears carefully in a dish, and pour the sauce
over them. If a larger dish is wanted, the meat from
two feet may be added to the above.
Different Ways of Dressing Pig's Feet and Ears.
Clean carefully, and soak some hours, and boil them '
tender; then take them out; boil some vinegar and a
little salt with some of the water, and when cold put it
over them. When they are to be dressed, dry them,
cut the feet in two, and slice the ears ; fry, and sene
I
rORK.
G9
■with butter, mustard, and vinegar. They may be either
done in batter, or only floured.
Pig's Feet and Ears fricasseed.
Put no vinegar into the pickle, if to be dressed with
cream. Cut the feet and ears into neat bits, and boil
them in a little milk; then pour that from them, and
simmer in a little veal-broth, with a bit of onion, mace,
and lemon-peel. Before you serve, add a little cream,
flour, butter, and salt.
J elly of Pig's Feet and Ears.
Clean and prepare as in the last article, then boil
them in a very small quantity of water till every bone
can be taken out ; throw in half a handful of chopped
sage, the same of parsley, and a seasoning of pepper,
salt, and mace, in fine powder; simmer till the herbs
are scalded, then pour the whole in a melon-form.
Pig's Harslet.
Wash and dry some liver, sweetbreads, and fat and
lean bits of pork, beating the latter with a rolling-pin to
make it tender ; season with pepper, salt, sage, and a
little onion shred fine; when mixed, put all into a cawl,
and fasten it up tight with a needle and thread. Boast
it on a hanging jack, or by a string.
Or serve in slices with parsley for a fry.
Serve with a sauce of port- wine and water, and mus-
tard, just boiled up, and put into the dish.
Mock Brawn.
Boil a pair of neat’s feet very tender ; take the meat
off, and have ready the belly-piece of pork salted with
common salt and saltpetre for a week. Boil this almost
enough ; take out any bones, and roll the feet and the
pork together. Then roll it very tight with a strong
cloth and coarse tape. Boil it till very tender, then
hang it up in the cloth till cold ; after which keep it in
a sousing-liquor, as is directed in the next article.
70 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Souse for Braic/i, and for Pig s Teet and Pars.
Boil a quarter of a peck of wheat-bran, a sprig of
bay, and a sprig of rosemary, in two gallons of water,
with four ounces of salt in it, for half an hour. Strain
it, and let it get cold.
To make Black Puddings.
The blood must be stirred with salt till cold. Put a
quart of it, or rather more, to a quart of whole grits, to
soak one night; and soak the crumb of a quartern loaf
in rather more than two quarts of new milk made hot.
In the mean time prepare the guts by washing, turning,
and scraping with salt and water, and changing the water
several times. Chop fine a little winter-savoury and
thyme, a good quantity of penny-royal, pepper, and salt,
a few cloves, some allspice, ginger, and nutmeg : mix
these with three pounds of beef-suet, and six eggs well
beaten and strained; and then beat the bread, grits, &c.
all up with the seasoning : when well mixed, have ready
some hogs’ fat cut into large bits ; and as you fill the
skins, put it in at proper distances. Tie in links, only
half filled; and boil in a large kettle, pricking them as
they swell, or they will burst. When boiled, lay them
between clean cloths till cold, and hang them up in the
kitchen. When to be used, scald them a few minutes
in water, wipe and put them into a Dutch oven.
If there are not skins enough, put the stuffing into i
basins, and boil it covered with floored cloths ; and
slice and fry it when used.
Another way. — Soak all night a quart of bruised giits
in as much boiling-hot milk as will swell them and leave
half a pint of liquid. Chop a good quantity of penny-
royal, some savoury, and thyme ; salt, pepper, and all-
spice, finely powdered. Mix the above with a quart of
the blood, prepared as before directed; then half fill
the skins, after they have been cleaned thoroughly, and
put as much of the leaf (that is, the inward fat) of the
l
PORK.
71
pig as will make it pretty rich. Boil as before directed.
A small quantity of leeks finely shred and well mixed,
is a great improvement.
Another way. — Boil a quart of half-grits in as much
milk as will swell them to the utmost; then drain them
and add a quart of blood, a pint of rich cream, a pound
ot suet, some mace, nutmeg, allspice, and four cloves,
all in fine powder; two pounds of the hogs’ leaf cut into
dice, two leeks, a handful of parsley, ten leaves of sage,
a large handful of penny-royal, and a sprig of thyme and
knotted marjoram, all minced fine ; eight eggs well
beaten, half a pound of bread-crumbs that have been
scalded with a pint of milk, pepper, and salt. Half fill
the skins; which must first be cleaned with the greatest
care, turned several times, and soaked in several waters,
and last in rose-water. Tie the skins in links, boil and
prick them with a clean fork to prevent their bursting.
Cover them with a clean cloth till cold.
White Hoy's Puddings.
^ hen the skins have been soaked and cleaned as
before directed, rinse and soak them all night in rose-
water, and put into them the following filling: Mix
half a pound of blanched almonds cut into seven or eight
bits, with a pound of grated bread, two pounds of mar-
row or suet, a pound of currants, some beaten cinna-
mon, cloves, mace, and nutmeg, a quart of cream, the
yolks of six and whites of two eggs, a little orange-
flower water, a little fine Lisbon sugar, and some lemon-
peel and citron sliced, and half-fill the skins. To know
whether sweet enough, warm a little in a panikin. In
boiling, much care must be taken to prevent the pud-
dings from bursting. Prick them with a small fork as
they rise, and boil them in milk and water. Lay them
in a table-cloth till cold.
Hoy's Lard
Should be carefully melted in a jar put into a kettle of
72 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
■water, and boiled ; run it into bladders that have been
extremely well cleaned. The smaller they are, the bet-
ter the lard keeps; as after the air reaches it, it becomes
rank. Put in a sprig of rosemary when melting.
This being a most useful article for frying fish, it
should be prepared with care. Mixed with butter, it
makes fine crust.
To cure Hams.
Hang them a day or two ; then sprinkle them with a
little salt, and drain them another day; pound an ounce
and a half of saltpetre, the same quantity of bay-salt,
half an ounce of sal-prunel, and a pound of the coarsest
sugar. Mix these well ; and rub them into each ham
every day for four days, and turn it. If a small one,
turn it every day for three weeks: if a large one, a week
longer; but don’t rub after four days. Before you dry
it, drain and cover with bran. Smoke it ten days.
Another way. — Choose the leg of a hog that is fat and
well-fed ; hang it as above ; if large, put to it a pound
of bay-salt, four ounces of saltpetre, a pound of the
coarsest sugar, and a handful of common salt, all in fine
powder, and rub it thoroughly. Lay the rind down-
wards, and cover the fleshy part with the salts. Baste it
as often as you can with the pickle ; the more the bet-
ter. Keep it four weeks, turning it every day. Drain
it, and throw bran over it ; then hang it in a chimney
where wood is burnt, and turn it sometimes for ten days.
Another way.— Hang the ham, and sprinkle it with
salt as above; then rub it every day with the following,
in fine powder : half a pound of common salt, the same
quantity of bay-salt, two ounces of saltpetre, and two
ounces of black pepper, mixed with a pound and a half
of treacle. Turn it twice a day in the pickle, for three
weeks. Lay it into a pail of water for one night, wipe
it quite dry, and smoke it two or three weeks.
Another way, that gives a high flavour, — When the
PORK.
73
weather will permit, hang the liam three days; mix an
ounce of saltpetre with a quarter of a pound of bay-salt,
the same quantity of common salt, and also of coarse
sugar, and a quart of strong beer; boil them together,
and pour them immediately upon the ham ; turn it twica
a day in the pickle for three weeks. An ounce of black
pepper, and the same quantity of allspice, in fine pow-
der, added to the above, will give still more flavour.
Cover it with bran when wiped : and smoke it from
three to four weeks, as you approve ; the latter will
make it harder and give it more of the flavour of West-
phalia. Sew hams in hessings (that is, coarse wrap-
pers,) if to be smoked where there is a strong fire.
A method of giving a still higher flavour. — Sprinkle
the ham with salt, after it has hung two or three days ;
let it drain ; make a pickle of a quart of strong beer, half
a pound of treacle, an ounce of coriander seeds, two
ounces of juniper-berries, an ounce of pepper, the same
quantity of allspice, an ounce of saltpetre, half an ounce
of sal-prunel, a handful of common salt, and a head of
shalot, all pounded or cut fine. Boil these all together
a few minutes, and pour them over the ham : this quan-
tity is for one of ten pounds. Rub and turn it every
day, for a fortnight; then sew it up in a thin linen bag,
and smoke it three weeks. Take care to drain it from
the pickle, and rub it in bran, before drying.
To make a Pickle that will keep for years, for Hams,
Tongues or Beef if boiled and slammed between each
parcel of them.
To two gallons of spring-water put two pounds of
coarse sugar, two pounds of bay and two pounds and a
half of common salt, and half a pound of saltpetre, in a
deep earthen glazed pan that will hold four gallons, and
with a cover that will fit close. Keep the beef or hams
as long as they will bear, before you put them into the
pickle ; and sprinkle them with coarse sugar in a pan
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
74
from which they must drain. Rub the hams, &c. well
with the pickle, and pack them in close ; putting as
much as the pan will hold, so that the pickle may cover
them. The pickle is not to be boiled at first. A small
ham may lie fourteen days, a large one three weeks ; a
tongue twelve days, and beef in proportion to its size.
They will eat well out of the pickle without drying.
When they are to be dried, let each piece be drained
over the pan ; and when it will drop no longer, take a
clean spunge and dry it thoroughly. Six or eight hours
will smoke them, and there should be only a little saw-
dust and wet straw burnt to do this ; but if put into a
baker’s chimney, sew them in coarse cloth, and hang
them a week.
To dress Hams.
If long hung, put the ham into water a night ; and let
it lie either in a hole dug in the earth, or on damp stones
sprinkled with water, two or three days, to mellow ;
covering it with a heavy tub, to keep vermin from it.
Wash well, and put it into a boiler with plenty of water ;
let it simmer four, five, or six hours, according to the
size. When done enough, if before the time of serving,
cover it with a clean cloth doubled, and keep the dish
hot over boiling water. Take off the skin, and strew
raspings over the ham. Garnish with carrot. Preserve
the skin as whole as possible, to keep over the ham
w'hen cold, which will prevent its drying.
Excellent Bacon.
Divide the hog, and take the chine out ; it is common
to remove the spare-ribs, but the bacon will be preserved
better from being rusty if they are left in. Salt the ba-
con six days, then drain it from that first pickle : mix
as much salt as you judge proper with eight ounces of
bay-salt, three ounces of saltpetre, and a pound of
coarse sugar, to each hog, but first cut off the hams.
MUTTON.
75
Rub the salts well in, and turn it every day for a month-
Drain, and smoke it a few days: or dry without by
hanging in the kitchen, not near the fire.
The manner of curing Wiltshire Bacon.
Sprinkle each Hitch with salt, aud let the blood drain
off for twenty-four hours : then mix a pound and a half
of coarse sugar, the same quantity of bay-salt, not quite
so much as half a pound of saltpetre, and a pound of
common salt ; and rub this well on the bacon, turning
it every day for a month : then hang it to dry, and after-
wards smoke it ten days. This quantity of salts is suffi-
cient for the whole hog.
MUTTON.
Observations on keeping and, dressing Mutton.
Take away the pipe that runs along the bone of the
inside of a chine of mutton ; and if to be kept a great
time, rub the part close round the tail with salt, after
first cutting out the kernel.
The kernel in the fat on the thick part of the leg
should be taken out by the butcher, for it taints first
there. The chine and rib bones should be wiped every
day ; and the bloody part of the neck be cut off, to preserve
it. The brisket changes first in the breast; and if it is
to be kept, it is best to rub it with a little salt, should
the weather be hot.
Every kernel should be taken out of all sorts of meat
as soon as brought in : then wipe dry.
For roasting, it should hang as long as it will keep,
the hind-quarter especially, but not so long as to taint;
for whatever fashion may authorize, putrid juices ought
not to be taken into the stomach.
Mutton for boiling will not look of a good colour if it
has hung long.
(ireat care should be taken to preserve by paper the
fat of what is roasted.
76
Domestic cookery.
Leg of Mutton.
If roasted, serve with onion or currant-jelly sauce; if
boiled, with caper-sauce and vegetables.
Neck of Mutton
Is particularly useful, as so many dishes may be made
of it; but it is not advantageous for the family. The
bones should be cut short, which the butchers will not
do unless particularly desired.
The best end of the neck may he boiled, and served
with turnips; or roasted; or dressed in steaks, in pies,
or harrico.
The scrags may be stewed in broth ; or with a small
quantity of water, some small onions, a few pepper-corns
and a little rice, and served together.
When a neck is to he boiled to look particularly nice,
saw down the chine-bone, strip the ribs half-way down,
and chop off the ends of the bones about four inches.
The skin should not be taken off till boiled, and then
the fat will look the whiter.
When there is more fat to a neck or loin of mutton,
than is agreeable to eat with the lean, it makes an un-
commonly good suet-pudding, or crust for a nreat-pie if
cut very fine.
Shoulder of Mutton roasted.
Serve with onion sauce. The blade-bone may ba
broiled.
To dress ILaunch of Mutton.
Keep it as long as it can be preserved sweet by the
different modes : let it be washed with warm milk and
water, or vinegar, if necessary ; but when to be dressed,
observe to wash it well, lest the outside should have a
bad flavour from keeping. Put a paste of coarse flour
on strong paper, and fold the haunch in : set it at a great
distance from the fire, and allow proportionable time
for the paste; don't take it off till about thirty-five or
forty miuutes before serving, and then baste it coutinu-
MUTTON.
77
ally. Bring tlie haunch nearer to the fire before you
take off the paste, and froth it up as you would venison.
A gravy must he made of a pound and a half of loin
of old mutton, simmered in a pint of water to half, and
no seasoning but salt : brown it with a little burnt sugar
and send it up in the dish ; but there should be a good
deal of gravy in the meat; for though long at the fire,
the distance and covering will prevent its roasting out.
Serve with currant-jelly sauce.
To roast a Saddle of M utton.
Let it he well kept first. Raise the skin, and then
skewer it on again ; take it off a quarter of an hour be-
fore serving, sprinkle it with some salt, baste it, and
dredge it well with Hour. The rump should be split, and
skewered back on each side. The joint may be large
or small according to the company : it is the most ele-
gant if the latter. Being broad, it requires a high and
strong fire.
Fillet of Mutton braised.
Take off the chump end of the loin, butter some pa-
per, and put over it, and then a paste as for venison ;
roast it two hours. Don’t let it be the least brown. Have
ready some French beans boiled and drained on a sieve;
and while the mutton is being glazed, give them one
heat-up in gravy, and lay them on the dish with the
meat over them.
Harrico.
Take off some of the fat, and cut the middle or best
end of the neck into rather thin steaks; flour and fry
them in their own fat of a fine light brown, but not
enough for eating. Then put them into a dish while you
fry the carrots, turnips, and onions; the carrots and tur-
nips in dice, the onions sliced : but they must only be
warmed, not browned, or you need not fry them. Then
lay the steaks at the bottom of a stew-pan, the vegetables
over them, and pour as much boiling water as will just
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
78
cover them; give one boil, skim well, and then set the
pan on the side of the fire to simmer gently till tender.
In three or four hours skim them ; and add pepper, salt,
and a spoonful of ketchup.
To hash Mutton.
Cut thin slices of dressed mutton, fat and lean; flour
them; have ready a little onion boiled in two or three
spoonfuls of water; add to it a little gravy and the meat
seasoned, and make it hot, but not to boil. Serve in a
covered dish. Instead of onion, a clove, a spoonful of
currant- jelly, and half a glass of port wine, will give an
agreeable flavour of venison, if the meat be fine.
Pickled cucumber, or walnut, cut small, warm in it
for change.
To boil shoulder of Mutton with Oi/sters.
Hang it some days, then salt it well for two days :
bone it, and sprinkle it with pepper and a bit of mace
pounded : lay some oysters over it, and roll the meat up
tight and tie it. Stew it in a small quantity of water,
with an onion and a few pepper-corns, till quite tender.
Have ready a little good gravy, and some oysters
stewed in it ; thicken this with flour and butter, and pour
over the mutton when the tape is taken off. The stew-
pan should be kept close covered.
Breast of Mutton.
Cut off the superfluous fat, and roast and serve the
meat with stewed cucumbers : or to eat cold, covered
with chopped parsley. Or half boil and then grill it
before the fire ; in which case cover it with crumbs and
herbs, and serve with caper-sauce. Or if boned, take
off a good deal of the fat, and cover it with bread, herbs,
and seasoning; then roll and boil; and serve with chop-
ped walnuts, or capers and butter.
Loin of Mutton
Roasted; if cut lengthways as a saddle, some think it
cuts better. Or for steaks, pies, or broth.
MUTTON.
79
To roll Loin of Mutton.
Hang the mutton till tender; bone it; and la)- a sea-
soning of pepper, allspice, mace, nutmeg, and a few
cloves, all in tine powder, over it. Next day prepare a
stuffing as for hare; beat the meat, and cover it with the
stuffing; roll it up tight, and tie it. rHalf-bake it in a
slow oven; let it grow cold; take off the fat, and put the
gravy into a stew-pan; flour the meat, and put it in
likewise; stew it till almost ready; and add a glass of
port wine, some ketchup, an anchovy, and a little lemon-
pickle, half an hour before serving; serve it in the gravy,
and with jelly-sauce. A few fresh mushrooms are a
great improvement; but if to eat like hare, do not use
these nor the lemon-pickle.
Mutton Ham.
Choose a fine grained leg of wether-mutton, of twelve
or fourteen pounds weight; let it be cut ham-shape, and
hang two days. Then put into a stew-pan half a pound
of bay-salt, the same of common salt, two ounces of
saltpetre, and half a pound of coarse sugar, all in pow-
der; mix, and make it quite hot; then rub it well into
the bam. Let it be turned in the liquor every day; at
the end of four days put two ounces more of common
salt; in twelve days take it out, dry it, and hang it up
in wood-smoke, a week. It is to be used in slices with
stewed cabbage, mashed potatoes, or eggs.
Mutton Collops.
Take a loin of mutton that has been well hung;"and
cut from the part next the leg, some collops very thin.
Take out the sinews. Season the collops with salt, pep-
per, and mace; and strew over them shred parsley,
thyme, and two or three shalots : fry them in butter till
half-done; add half a pint of gravy, a little juice of le-
mon, and a piece of butter rubbed in flour; and simmer
the whole very gently five minutes. They should be
served immediately, or they will be hard.
80
DOMESTIC COOK ICR Y.
Mutton Cutlets in the Portuguese way.
Cut the chops ; and half-fry them with sliced shalot or
onion, chopped parsley, and two hay- leaves; season with
pepper and salt : then lay a forcemeat on a piece of
w'hite paper, put the chop on it, and twist the paper up,
leaving a hole for the end of the bones to go through.
Broil on a gentle fire. Serve with sauce Robart; or, as
the seasoning makes the cutlets high, a little gravy.
Mutton Steaks
Should be cut from a loin or neck that has hung; if a
neck the bones should not be long. They should be
broiled on a clear fire, seasoned when half-done, and
often turned; take them up into a very hot dish, rub a
bit of butter on each, and serve hot and hot the moment
they are done.
Steaks of Mutton, or Lamb, and Cucumbers.
Quarter cucumbers, and lay them into a deep dish,
sprinkle them with salt, and pour vinegar over them.
Fry the chops of a fine brown, and put them into a stew-
pan; drain the cucumbers, and put over the steaks; add
some sliced onions, pepper, and salt; pour hot water or
weak broth on them; stew and skim well.
Mutton Steaks Maintenon.
Half-fry, strew them while hot with herbs, crumbs,
and seasoning; put them in paper immediately, and finish
on the gridiron. Be careful the paper does not catch ;
rub a bit of butter on it first to prevent that.
Mutton Sausages.
Take a pound of the rawest part of a leg of mutton
that has been either roasted or boiled ; chop it extremely
small, and season it with pepper, salt, mace, and nut-
meg : add to it six ounces of beef-suet, some sweet herbs,
two anchovies, and a pint of oysters, all chopped very
small; a quarter of a pound of grated bread, some of
the anchovy-liquors and the yolks and wdiites of two
eggs well beaten. Put it all, when well mixed, into a
MUTTON.
81
little pot : and use it by rolling it into balls or sausage-
shape and frying. If approved, a little shalot may be
added, or garlick, which is a great improvement.
To clress Mutton Rumps and Kidney.
Stew six rumps in some good mutton-gravy half an
hour; then take them up, and let them stand to cool.
Clear the gravy from the fat; and put into it four oun-
ces of boiled rice, an onion stuck with cloves, and a
blade of mace; boil them till the rice is thick. Wash
the rumps with yolks of eggs well beaten; and strew
over them crumbs of bread, a little pepper and salt,
chopped parsley and thyme, and grated lemon-peel.
Fry in butter of a fine brown. While the rumps are
stewing, lard the kidneys, and put them to roast in a
Dutch oven. When the rumps are fried, the grease
must be drained before they are put on the dish, and the
pan being cleared likewise from the fat, warm the rice
in it. Lay the latter on the dish; the rumps put round
on the rice, the narrow ends towards the middle, and the
kidneys between. Garnish with hard eggs cut in half,
the white being left on ; or with different coloured
pickles.
An excellent Hotch-potch.
Stew peas, lettuce, and onions, in a very little water,
with a beef or ham-bone. While these are doing, fry
some mutton or iamb-steaks seasoned, of a nice brown:
three quarters of an hour before dinner, put the steaks
into a stew-pan, and the vegetables over them; stew
them, and serve altogether in a tureen.
Another .■ — Knuckle of veal, and scrag of mutton, stew-
ed with vegetables as above; to both add a bit of butter
rolled in fiour.
Mutton kehobbed.
Take all the fat out ol a loin ot mutton, and that on
the outside also if too fat, and remove the skin. Joint
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
82
it at every bone : mix a small nutmeg grated with a little
salt and pepper, crumbs, and herbs; dip the steaks into
the yolks of three eggs, and sprinkle the above mixture
all over them. Then place the steaks together as they
were before they were cut asunder, tie them, and fasten
them on a small spit. Roast them at a quick fire; seta
dish under, and baste them with a good piece of butter
and the liquor that comes from the meat ; but throw some
more of the above seasoning over. When done enough,
take it up, and lay it in a dish : have half a pint of good
gravy ready besides that in the dish : and put into
it two spoonfuls of ketchup, and rub down a tea-spoonful
of flour with it; give this a boil and pour it over the
mutton, but first skim off the fat well. Mind to keep
the meat hot till the gravy is quite ready.
China Chilo.
Mince a pint-basin of undressed neck of mutton, or
leg, and some of the fat; put two onions, a lettuce, a
pint of green peas, a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful
of pepper, four spoonfuls of water, and two or three
ounces of clarified butter, into a stew-pan closely cover-
ed ; simmer two hours, and serve in the middle of a ■
dish of boiled dry rice. If Cayenne is approved, add a
little.
LAMB.
Leg of Lamb
Should be boiled in a cloth, to look as white as possible.
The loin fried in steaks and served round, garnished
with dried or fried parsley; spinach to eat with it; or
dressed separately or roasted.
Fore-quarter of Lamb.
Roast it either whole, or in separate parts. If left to
be cold, chopped parsley should be sprinkled over it.
The neck and breast together is called a scoveu.
I tread of Lamb and Cucumbers.
Cut off the chine-bone from the breast, and set it on:
i
LAMB.
8.3
to stew with a pint of gravy. When the bones would
draw out, put it on the gridiron to grill; and then lay it
in a dish on cucumbers nicely stewed.
Shoulder of Lumh forced, with Sorrel-sauce.
Bone a shoulder of lamb, and fill it up with force-
meat; braise it two hours over a slow stove. Take it
up, glaze it; or it may be glazed only, and not braised. —
The method for both, see page 91. Serve with sorrel-
sauce under the lamb.
Lamb Steaks.
Fry them of a beautiful brown; when served, throw
over them a good quantity of crumbs of bread fried, and
crimped parsley; the receipt for doing which of a fine
colour will be given under the head of Vegetables.
Mutton or Lamb steaks, seasoned and broiled in but-
tered papers, either with crumbs and herbs, or without,
are a genteel dish, and eat well.
Sauce for them, called Sauce Robart, will be found iu
the list of Sauces.
House-Lamb Steaks white.
Stew them in milk and water till very tender, with a
bit of lemon-peel, a little salt, some pepper, and mace.
Have ready some veal gravy, and put the steaks into it ;
mix some mushroom powder, a cup of cream, and the
least bit of flour; shake the steaks in this liquor, stir it,
and let it get quite hot. J ust before you take it up, put
in a few white mushrooms. This is a good substitute
when poultry is very dear.
House-Lamb Steaks brown.
Season them with pepper, salt, nutmeg, grated lemon-
peel and chopped parsley; but dip them first into egg :
fry them quick. Thicken some good gravy with a bit
of flour and butter; and add to it a spoonful of port wine,
and some oysters : boil it up, and then put in the steaks
Marm; let them heat up, and serve. You may add pa-
84
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Lamb Cutlets with Spinach.
Cut the steaks from the loin, and ft')' them : the
spinach is to be stewed and put into the dish first, and
then the cutlets round it.
Lambs Head and Hinge.
This part is best from a house-lamb ; but any, if soak-
ed in cold water, will be white. Boil the head separate-
ly till very tender. Have ready the liver and lights
three parts boiled and cut small : stew them in a little
of the water in which they are boiled, season and thick-
en with flour and butter, and serve the mince round the
head.
Lamb's Fry.
Serve it fried of a beautiful colour, and with a good
deal of dried or fried parsley over it.
Lamb's Sweetbreads.
Blanch them, and put them a little while into cold
water. Then put them into a stew-jan with a ladleful
of broth, some pepper and salt, a small bunch of small
onions, and a blade of mace; stir in a bit of butter and
flour, and stew half an hour. Have ready two or three
eggs well beaten in cream, with a little minced parsley
and a few grates of nutmeg. Put in some boiled aspara-
gus-tops to the other things. Don’t let it boil after
the cream is in; but make it hot, and stir it well all the
while. Take great care it does not curdle. Young
French beans or peas may be added, first boiled of a .
beautiful colour.
Fricasseed Lambstones.
Skin and wash, then dry and flour them ; fry of a
beautiful brown, in hogs’ lard. Lay them on a sieve be-
fore the fire till you have made the following sauce :
Thicken almost half a pint of veal-gravy with a bit of
flour and butter, and then add to it a slice of lemon, a
large spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a tea-spoonful of
lemon-pickle, a grate of nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg
i
LAMB.
8.5
beaten well in two large spoonfuls of thick cream. Put
this over the tire, and stir it well till it is hot, and looks
white; but don’t let it boil, or it will curdle. Then put
in the fry, and shake it about near the fire for a minute
or two. Serve in a very hot dish and cover.
Fricassee of Lambstones and Sweetbreads, another way.
Have ready some lambstones blanched, parboiled, and
sliced. Flour two or three sweetbreads : if very thick,
cut them in two. Fry all together, with a few large
oysters, of a fine yellow brown. Pour the butter off ; and
add a pint of good gravy, some asparagus-tops about an
inch long, a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt, two shalots
shred fine, and a glass of white wine. Simmer ten mi-
nutes; then put a little of the gravy to the yolks of three
eggs well beaten, and by degrees mix the whole. Tur.
the gravy back into the pan, and stir it till of a fine
thickness without boiling. Garnish with lemon.
A very nice Dish.
Take the best end of a neck of lamb, cut it into steaks,
and chop each bone so short as to make the steaks almost
round. Egg, and strew with crumbs, herbs, and season-
ing; fry them of the finest brown; mash some potatoes
with a little butter and cream, and put them into the
middle of the dish raised high. Then place the edge of
one steak on another with the small bone upward, all
round the potatoes.
Pies of the different meats are directed under the ge-
neral head of savoury pies.
PART III.
POULTRY, GAME, &c.
To choose Poultry, Game, < Jv.
A Turhey-cock. — If young, it has a smooth black leg,
86
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
■with a short spur. The eyes full and bright, if fresh,
and the feet supple and moist. If stale, the eyes will
be sunk, and the feet dry.
Hen-turkey is known by the same rules ; but if old, her
legs will be red and rough.
Fowls. — If a cock is young, his spurs will be short;
but take care to see they have not been cut or pared,
which is a trick often practised. If fresh, the vent will
be close and dark. Pullets are best just before they
begin to lay, and yet are full of egg : if old hens, their
combs and legs will be rough; if young they will be
smooth. A good capon has a thick belly and a large
rump ; there is a particular fat at his breast, and the
comb is very pale. Black-legged fowls are most moist,
if for roasting.
Geese. — The bill and feet of a young one will be yel-
low, and there will be but few hairs upon them; if old,
they will be red: if fresh, the feet will be pliable; if
stale, dry and stiff. Geese are called green till three or
four months old. Green geese should be scalded : a
stubble goose should be picked dry.
Ducks. — Choose them by the same rules, of having
supple feet, and by their being hard and thick on the
breast and belly. The feet of a tame duck are thick,
and inclining to dusky yellow; a wild one has the feet
reddish, and smaller than the tame. They should be
picked dry. Ducklings must be scalded.
Pigeons should be very fresh ; when they look flabby
about the vent, and this part is discoloured, they are stale.
The feet should be supple; if old the feet are harsh.
The tame ones are larger than the wild, and are thought
best by some persons; they should be fat and tender; but
many are deceived in their size, because a full crop is
as large as the whole body of a small pigeon.
The wood pigeon is large, and the flesh dark-coloured :
i
POULTRY. 87
if properly kept, ami not over-roasted, the flavour is
equal to teal. Serve with a good gravy.
Plovers. — Choose those that feel hard at the vent,
which shews they are flit. In other respects, choose
them by the same marks as other fowl. When stale,
the feet are dry. They will keep sweet a long time.
There are three sorts : the grey, green, and bastard plo-
ver, or lapwing.
Hare or rabbit. — If the claws are blunt and rugged,
the ears dry and tough, and the haunch thick, it is old;
but if the claws are smooth and sharp, the ears easily
tear, and the cleft in the lip is not much spread, it is
young. If fresh and newly killed, the body will be stiff,
and in hare the flesh pale. But they keep a good while
by proper care ; and are best when rather beginning to
turn, if the inside is preserved from being musty. To
know a real leveret, you should look for a knob or small
bone near the foot on its fore leg; if there is none it is
a hare.
Partridges. — They are in season in autumn. If young,
the bill is of a dark colour, and the legs yellowish ; if
fresh, the vent will be firm ; but this part will look green-
ish if stale.
Pheasants.— The cock-bird is accounted best, except
when the hen is with egg. If young, he has short blunt
or round spurs; but if old, they are long and sharp.
Directions for dressing Poultry and Game.
All poultry should be very carefully picked, every plug
removed, and the hair nicely singed with white paper.
The cook must be careful in drawing poultry of all
sorts, not to break the gall-bag, for no washing will take
off the bitter where it has touched.
In dressing wild fowl, be careful to keep a clear brisk
fire. Let them be done of a fine yellow brown, but
leave the gravy in : the fine flavour is lost if done too
much.
8 8
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Tame fowls require more roasting, anil are longer in
heating through than others. All sorts should be conti-
nually basted; that they may be served with a froth,
and appear of a fine colour.
A large fowl will take three quarters of an hour; a
middling one half an hour; and a very small one, or a
chicken, twenty minutes. The fire must be very quick
and clear before any fowls are put down. A capon will
take from half an hour to thirty-five minutes; a goose
an hour; wild ducks a quarter of an hour; pheasants
twenty minutes; a small turkey stuffed, an hour and a
quarter; turkey-poults, twenty minutes; grouse, a quar-
ter of an hour; quails, ten minutes; and partridges, from
twenty to twenty-five minutes. A hare will take near
an hour, and the hind part requires most heat.
Pigs and geese require a brisk fire, and quick turning.
Hares and rabbits must be well attended to ; and the
extremities brought to the quick part of the fire, to be
done equally with the backs.
POULTRY.
To boil Turkey.
Make a stuffing of bread, herbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg,
lemon-peel, a few oysters or an anchovy, a bit of butter,
some suet, and an egg : put this into the crop, fasten up
the skin, and boil the turkey in a floured cloth to make
it very white. Have ready a fine oyster-sauce made rich
with butter, a little cream, and a spoonful of soy, if ap-
proved; and pour it over the bird; or liver and lemon-
sauce. Hen birds are best for boiling, and should be
young.
To roast Turkey.
The sinews of the legs should be drawn, whichever
way it is dressed. The head should be twisted under
the wing; and in drawing it, take care not to tear the
liver, nor let the gall touch it.
Put a stuffing of sausage-meat; or if sausages are to
POULTRY.
89
be served in the dish, a bread- stuffing. As this makes
a large addition to the size of the bird, observe that the
heat of the fire is constantly to that part; for the breast
is often not done enough. A little strip of paper should
be put on the bone, to hinder it from scorching while
the other parts roast. Baste well, and froth it up.
Serve with gravy in the dish, and plenty of bread-sauce
in a sauce-tureen. Add a few crumbs, and a beaten egg
to the stuffing of sausage-meat.
Pulled Turkey.
Divide the meat of the breast by pulling instead of
cutting; then warm it in a spoonful or two of white gravy,
and a little cream, grated nutmeg, salt, and a little flour
and butter ; don’t boil it. The leg should be seasoned,
scored, and broiled, and put into the dish with the above
round it. Cold chicken does as well.
To boil Foivl.
For boiling, choose those that are not black-legged.
Pick them nicely, singe, wash, and truss them. Flour
them, and put them into boiling water. — See time of
dressing, page 88.
Serve with parsley and butter; oyster, lemon, liver,
or celery sauce.
If for dinner, ham, tongue, or bacon, is usually served
to eat with them; as likewise greens.
To boil Fold with Rice.
Stew the fowl very slowly in some clear mutton-broth
well skimmed; and seasoned with onion, mace, pepper,
and salt. About half an hour before it is l'eady, put in
a quarter of a pint of rice'well washed and soaked. Sim-
mer till tender ; then strain it from the broth, and put the
rice on a sieve before the fire. Keep the fowl hot, lay it
in the middle of the dish, and the rice round it without
the broth. The broth will he very nice to eat as such,
but the less liquor the fowl is done with the better,
(iravy, or parsley and butter, for sauce.
90
DOMESTIC COOKERY
Fowls roasted.
Serve with egg-sauce, bread-sauce, or garnished with
sausages and scalded parsley.
A large barn-door fowl, well hung, should be stuffed
in the crop with sausage-meat; and served with gravy
in the dish, and with bread-sauce.
The head should be turned under the wing, as a
turkey.
Fowls broiled.
Split them down the back; pepper, salt, and broil.
Serve with mushroom-sauce.
Another way. — Cut a large fowl into four quarters, put
them on a bird-spit, and tie that on another spit; and
half-roast; or half-roast the whole fowl, and finish either
on the gridiron, which will make it less dry than if
wholly broiled. The fowl that is not cut before roasted,
must be split down the back after.
Davenport Fowls.
Hang young fowls a night : take the livers, hearts, and
tenderest parts of the gizzards, shred very small, with
half a handful of young clary, an anchovy to each fowl,
an onion, and the yolks of four eggs boiled hard, with
pepper, salt, and mace, to your taste. Stuff the fowls
with this, and sew up the vents and necks quite close,
that the water may not get in. Boil them in salt and
water till almost done : then drain them, and put them
into a stew-pan with butter enough to brown them.
Serve them with fine melted butter, and a spoonful of
ketchup, of either sort, in the dish.
A nice way to dress a Fowl for a small dish.
Bone, singe, and wash, a young fowl : make a force-
meat of four ounces of veal, two ounces of scraped
lean of ham, two ounces of fat bacon, two hard yolks
of eggs, a few sweet herbs chopped, two ounces of beef
suet, a tea-spoonful of lemon-peel minced quite fine,
an anchovy, salt, pepper, and a very little Cayenne.
POULTRY.
91
Beat all in a mortar, with a tea-cupful of crumbs, and
the yolks and whites of three eggs. Stuff the inside of
the fowl, and draw the legs and wings inwards ; tie
the neck and rump close. Stew the fowl in a white
gravy : when it is done through and tender, add a large
cupful of cream, and a bit of butter and flour ; give it
one boil, and serve : the last thing, add the squeeze of
a lemon.
To force Fend, <|r.
Is to stuff any part with forcemeat, and it is put usually
between the skin and flesh.
To braise,
Is to put meat into a stew-pan, covered with fat bacon :
then add six or eight onions, a faggot of herbs, carrots
if to be brown, celeryr, any bones, or trimmings of meat
or fowls, and some stock (which you will find among
Soups and Gravies.') The bacon must be covered with
a paper, and the lid of the pan must be put down close.
Set it on a slow stove ; and according to what it is, it
will require two or three hours. The meat is then to be
taken out ; and the gravy very nicely skimmed, and set
on to boil very quick till it is thick. The meat is to
be kept hot ; and if larded, put into the oven for a few
minutes : and then put the jelly over it, which is called
glazing, and is used for ham, tongue, and many made
dishes. White wine is added to some glazing. The
glaze should be of a beautiful clear yellow brown, and
it is best to put it on with a nice brush.
Fricassee of Chickens.
Boil rather more than half, in a small quantity of
water: let them cool; then cut up; and put to simmer
in a little gravy made of the liquor they were boiled in,
and a bit of veal or mutton, onion, mace, and lemon-
peel, some white pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs.
hen quite tender, keep them hot while you thicken the
sauce in the following manner : Strain it off, and put
92
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
it back into the sauce-pan with a little salt, a scrape of
nutmeg, and a bit of Hour and butter; give it one boil;
and when you are going to serve, beat up the yolk of
an egg, add half a pint of cream, and stir them over tho
fire, but don’t let it boil. It will be quite as good with-
out the egg.
The gravy may be made (without any other meat) of
the necks, feet, small wing-bones, gizzards, and livers;
which are called the trimmings of the fowls.
To pull Chickens.
Take off the skin; and pull the flesh off the zone of a
cold fowl, in as large pieces as you can : dredge it with
flour, and fry it of a nice brown in butter. Drain the
butter from it ; and then simmer the flesh in a good
gravy well-seasoned, and thickened with a little flour
and butter. Add the juice of half a lemon.
Another way. — Cut off the legs, and the whole back,
of a dressed chicken; if underdone the better. Pull all
the white part into little flakes free from skin ; toss it
up with a little cream thickened with a piece of butter
mixed with flour, half a blade of mace in powder, white
pepper, salt, and a squeeze of lemon. Cut off the neck-
end of the chicken ; and broil the hack and sidesmen
in one piece, and the two legs seasoned. Put the hash
in the middle, with the back on it; and the two legs at
the end.
Chicken Currie.
Cut up the chickens raw, slice onions, and fry both
in butter with great care, of a fine light brown ; or if
you use chickens that have been dressed, fry only the
onions. Lay the joints, cut into two or three pieces
each, into a stew-pan ; with a veal or mutton gravy, and
a clove or two of garlick. Simmer till the chicken is
quite tender. Half an hour before you serve it, rub
smooth a spoonful or two of currie-powder, a spoonful
of flour, and an ounce of butter; and add this, with four
. „n.rr.r.
93
large spoonfuls of cream, to the stew. Salt to your
taste. When serving, squeeze in a little lemon.
Slices of underdone veal, or rabbit, turkey, &c. make
excellent currie.
A dish of rice boiled dry must be served. For direc-
tions to do this, see the article Rice.
Another, more easily made. — Cut up a chicken or
young rabbit ; if chicken, take off the skin. Roll each
piece in a mixture of a large spoonful of flour, and half
an ounce of currie-powder. Slice two or three onions;
and fry them in butter, of a light brown : then add the
meat, and fry all together till the meat begins to brown.
Put it all into a stew-pan, and pour boiling water
enough just to cover it. Simmer very gently two or
three hours. If too thick, put more water half an hour
before serving.
If the meat has been dressed before, a little broth
will be better than water : but the currie is richer when
made of fresh meat.
To braise Chickens.
Bone them, and fill them with forcemeat. Lay the
bones, and any other poultry trimmings, into a stew-
pan, and the chickens on them. Put to them a few
onions, a faggot of herbs, three blades of mace, a pint
of stock, and a glass or two of sherry. Cover the
chickens with slices of bacon, and then white paper ;
cover the whole close, and put them on a slow stove for
two hours. Then take them up, strain the braise, and
skim off the fat carefully : set it on to boil very quick to
a glaze, and do the chickens over with it with a brush.
Serve with a brown fricassee of mushrooms. Before
glazing, put the chicken into an oven for a few minutes,
to give a little colour.
Ducks roasted.
Serve with a fine gravy : and stuff one with sage and
94
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
onion, a desert-spoonful of crumbs, a bit of butter, and
pepper and salt; let the other be unseasoned.
To boil Ducks.
Choose a fine fat duck; salt it two days, then boil it
slowly in a cloth. Serve it with onion-sauce, but melt
the butter with milk instead of water.
To stew Ducks.
Half-roast a duck ; put it into a stew-pan with a pint
of beef-gravy, a few leaves of sage and mint cut small,
pepper and salt, and a small bit of onion shred as line
as possible. Simmer a quarter of an hour, and skim
clean ; then add near a quart of gTeen peas. Cover
close, and simmer near half an hour longer. Put in a
piece of butter and a little flour, and give it one boil ;
then serve in one dish.
To hash Ducks.
Cut a cold duck into joints; and warm it, without
boiling in gravy, and a glass of port wine.
To roast Goose.
After it is picked, the plugs of the feathers pulled
out, and the hairs carefully singed, let it be well washed
and dried, and a seasoning put in of onion, sage, and
pepper and salt. Fasten it tight at the neck and rump,
and then roast. Put it first at a distance from the fire,
and by degrees draw it nearer. A slip of paper should
be skewered on the breast-bone. Baste it very well.
When the breast is rising, take off the paper ; and be
careful to serve it before the breast falls, or it will be
spoiled by coming flatted to table. Let a good gravy
be sent in the dish.
Gravy and apple-sauce: gooseberry- sauce for a green
goose.
To stew Giblets.
Do them as will be directed for giblet-pie (under the
head Pics;') season them with salt and pepper, and a
very small piece of mace. Before serving, give them
TOULTRY. 95
one boil with a cup of cream, and a piece of butter rub-
bed in a tea-spoonful of flour.
Pigeons '
May be dressed in so many ways, that they are very
useful. The good flavour of them depends very much
on their being cropped and drawn as soon as killed.
No other bird requires so much washing.
Pigeons left from dinner the day before may be
stewed, or made into a pie; in either case, care must
be taken not to overdo them, which will make them
stringy. They need only be heated up in gravy made
ready; and forcemeat-balls may be fried and added, in-
stead of putting a stuffing into them. If for a pie, let
beef-steaks be stewed in a little water, and put cold
under them, and cover each pigeon with a piece of fat
bacon, to keep them moist.
Season as usual, and put eggs.
To steiv Pigeons.
Take care that they are quite fresh, and carefully
cropped, drawn, and washed ; then soak them half an
hour. In the mean time cut a hard white cabbage in
slices (as if for pickling) into water: drain it, and
then boil it in milk and water : drain it again, and
lay "some of it at the bottom of a stew-pan. Put
the pigeons upon it, but first season them well with
pepper and salt ; and cover them with the remainder
of the cabbage. Add a little broth, and stew gently
till the pigeons are tender ; then put among them two
or three spoonfuls of cream, and a piece of butter and
flour, for thickening. After a boil or two, serve tbe
birds in the middle, and the cabbage placed round them.
Another wag. — Stew the birds in a good brown gravy,
either stuffed or not ; and seasoned high with spice and
mushrooms fresh, or a little ketchup.
To broil Pigeons.
After cleaning, split the backs, pepper and salt them,
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
%
and broil them very nicely ; pour over them either
stewed or pickled mushrooms in melted butter, and
serve as hot as possible.
Roast Pigeons
Should be stuffed with parsley, either cut or whole ; and
seasoned within. Serve with parsley and butter. Peas
or asparagus should be dressed to eat with them.
To pickle Pigeons.
Bone them ; turn the inside out, and lard it. Season
with a little allspice and salt, in fine powder; then turn
them again, and tie the neck and rump with thread. Put
them into boiling water: let them boil a minute or two
to plump : take them out, and dry them well ; then put
them boiling hot into the pickle, which must be made
of equal quantities of white wine and white wine vine-
gar, with white pepper and allspice, sliced ginger and
nutmeg, and two or three bay-leaves. When it boils
up, put the pigeons in. If they are small, a quarter of
an hour will do them : but they will take twenty mi-
nutes if large. Then take them out, wipe them, and
let them cool. When the pickle is cold, take the fat
off from it, and put them in again. Keep them in a
stone jar, tied down with a bladder to keep out the air.
Instead of larding, put into some a stuffing made of
hard yolks of eggs and marrow in equal quantities, with
sweet herbs, pepper, salt, and mace.
Pigeons in Jelly.
Save some of the liquor in which a knuckle of veal
has been boiled : or boil a calf's or neat’s foot ; put the
broth into the pan with a blade of mace, a bunch of
sweet herbs, some white pepper, lemon-peel, a slice of
lean bacon, and tile pigeons. Bake them, and let them
stand to be cold. Season them as you like, before ba-
king. When done, take them out of the liquor, cover
them close to preserve the colour, and clear the jelly
by boiling it with the whites of two eggs; then strain
POULTRY.
£>7
it through a thick cloth dipped in boiling water, and
put into a sieve. The fat must be perfectly removed,
before it be cleared. Put the jelly over and round them
rough.
The same , a beautiful dish. — Pick two very nice
pigeons; and make them look as well as possible by
singeing, washing, and cleaning the heads well. Leave
the heads and the feet on, but the nails must be clipped
close to the claws. Roast them of a very nice brown;
and when done, put a little sprig of myrtle into the bill
of each. Have ready a savoury jelly, as before, and
with it half-fill a bowl of such a size as shall be proper
to turn down on the dish you mean it to be served in.
When the jelly and the birds are cold, see that no
gravy hang to the birds, and then lay them upside down
in the jelly. Before the rest of it begin to set, pour it
over the birds, so as to be three inches above the feet.
This should be done full twenty-four hours before serv-
ing.
This dish has a very handsome appearance in the
middle range of a second course ; or when served with
the jelly roughed large, it makes a side or corner thing,
its size being then less. The head should be kept up
as if alive, by tying the neck with some thread, and
the legs bent as if the pigeon sat upon them.
To pot Pigeons.
Let them be quite fresh, clean them carefully, and
season them with salt and pepper : lay them close in a
small deep pan ; for the smaller the surface, and the
closer they are packed, the less butter will be wanted.
Cover them with butter, then with very thick paper tied
down, and bake them. When cold, put them dry into
pots that will hold two or three in each ; and pour
butter over them, using that which was baked as part.
Observe that the butter should be pretty thick over
a
08
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
them, if they are to be kept. If pigeons were boned,
and then put in an oval form into the pot, they would
lie closer, and require less butter. They may be stuffed
with a fine forcemeat made with veal, bacon, &c. and
then they will eat excellently. If a high flavour is ap-
proved of, add mace, allspice, and a little Cayenne, be-
fore baking.
Laris, and other small Birds.
Draw, and spit them on a bird-spit ; tie this on an-
other spit, and roast them. Baste gently with butter,
and strew bread-crumbs upon them till half-done:
brown and serve with fried crumbs round.
game, &c.
To leep Game, §c.
Game ought not to be thrown away even when it has
been kept a very long time ; for when it seems to be
spoiled it may often be made fit for eating, by nicely
cleaning it, and washing with vinegar and water. If
there is danger of birds not keeping, draw, crop and
pick them ; then wash in two or three waters, and rub
them with salt. Have ready a large sauce pan of boil-
ing water, and plunge them into it one by one; drawing
them up and down by the legs, that the water may pass
through them. Let them stay five or six minutes in ;
then hang them up in a cold place. When drained,
pepper and salt the insides well. Before roasting, wash
them well.
The most delicate birds, even grouse, may be pre-
served thus. Those that live by suction cannot be done
this way, as they are never drawn ; and perhaps the heat
might make them worse, as the water could not pass
through them ; but they bear being high.
Lumps of charcoal put about birds and meat will
preserve them from taint, and restore what is spoiling.
Pheasants and Partridges.
Roast them as turkey; and serve with a fine gravy
99
GAME, See.
(into which put a very small bit of garlick,) and bread-
sauce. When cold, they may he made into excellent
patties, hut their flavour should not be overpowered by
lemon.
To pot Partridges.
Clean them nicely; and season with mace, allspice,
white pepper, and salt, in fine powder. Rub every part
well ; then lay the breasts downwards in a pan, and
pack the birds as close as you possibly can. Put a good
deal of butter on them ; then cover the pan with a
coarse flour-paste and a paper over, tie it close, and
bake. When cold, put the birds into pots, and cover
them with butter.
A very cheap ivay of pottivg Birds.
Prepare them as directed in the last receipt ; and
when baked and grown cold, cut them into proper
pieces for helping, pack them close into a large potting-
pot, and (if possible) leave no spaces to receive the but-
ter. Cover them with butter, and one-third part less
will be wanted than when the birds are done whole.
The butter that has covered potted things will serve
for basting, or for paste for meat-pies.
To clarify Butter for potted Things.
Put it into a sauce-boat, and set that over the fire in a
stew-pan that has a little water in. When melted, take
care not to pour the milky parts over the potted things :
they will sink to the bottom.
To pot Moor Game.
Pick, singe, and wash the birds nicely : then dry them ;
and season, inside and out, pretty high, with pepper,
mace, nutmeg, allspice, and salt. Pack them in as
small a pot as will hold them, cover them with butter,
and bake in a very slow oven. When cold, take ott
the butter, dry them from the gravy, and put one bird
into each pot, which should just fit. Add as much more
butter as will cover them, but take care that it does not
DOMESTIC. COOKERY.
100
oil. The best way to melt it is, by warming it in a
basin set in a bowl of hot water.
Grouse.
Roast them like fowls, but the head is to be twisted
under the wing. They must not be over-done. Servo
with a rich gravy in the dish, and bread-sauce. The
sauce for wild-fowl, as will be described hereafter under
the head of Sauces, may be used instead of common
gravy.
To roast Wild Fowl.
The flavour is best preserved without stuffing. Put
pepper, salt, and a piece of butter, into each.
Wild fowl require much less dressing than tame :
they should be served of a fine colour, and well frothed
up. A rich brown gravy should be sent in the dish ;
and when the breast is cut into slices, before taking off
the bone, a squeeze of lemon, with pepper and salt, is a
great improvement to the flavour.
To take off the fishy taste which wild fowl sometimes
have, put an onion, salt, and hot water, into the drip-
ping-pan, and baste them for the first ten minutes with
this; then take away the pan, and baste constantly with
butter.
Wild Duels, Teed, Widgeon, Dun-birds, dye
Should be taken up with the gravy in. Baste them with
butter, and sprinkle a little salt before they are taken
up ; put a good gravy under them, and serve with sha-
lot-sauce in a boat.
Woodcocks , Snipes, and Quails,
Keep good several days. Roast them without drawing,
and serve on toast. Butter only should be eaten with
them, as gravy takes off from the fine flavour. The
thigh and back are esteemed the most.
Buff's and Reeves
Are skewered as quails; put bars of bacon over them,
GAME, &C. 101
and roast them about ten minutes. Serve with a good
gravy, in the dish.
To dress Plovers.
Roast the green ones in the same way as woodcocks
and quails (see above,) without drawing; and serve on
a toast. Grey plovers may be either roasted, or stewed
with gravy, herbs, and spice.
Plovers' Eggs
Are a nice and fashionable dish. Boil them ten mi-
nutes, and serve either hot or cold on a napkin.
To roast Ortolans.
Pick and singe, but do not draw them. Tie on a
bird-spit, and roast them. Some persons like bacon
in slices tied between them, but the taste of it spoils
the flavour of the ortolan. Cover them with crumbs of
bread.
Guinea and Pea Fowl
Eat much like pheasants. Dress them in the same
way (see page i;8.)
Hares,
If properly taken care of, will keep a great time : and
even when the cook fancies them past eating, may be in
the highest perfection; which if eaten when fresh-killed
they are not. As they are usually paunched in the field,
the cook cannot prevent this ; but the hare keeps longer,
and eats much better, if not opened for four or five
days, or according to the weather.
If paunched, as soon as a hare comes in, it should be
wiped quite dry, the heart and liver taken out, and the
liver scalded to keep for the stuffing. Repeat this wip-
ing every day; mix pepper and ginger, and rub on the
inside ; and put a large piece of charcoal into it. If
the spice is applied early, it will prevent that musty
taste which long keeping in the damp occasions, and
which also affects the stuffing.
O
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
102
An old liare should be kept as long as possible, if to
be roasted. It must also be well soaked.
To roast Hare.
After it is skinned, let it be extremely well washed,
and then soaked an hour or two in water ; and if old,
lard it; which will make it tender, as also will letting
it lie in vinegar.
If however it is put into vinegar, it should he ex-
ceedingly well washed in water afterwards. Put a
large relishing stuffing into the belly, and then sew it
up. Baste it well with milk till half-done, and after-
wards with butter. If the blood has settled in the
neck, soaking the part in warm water, and putting it
to the fire warm, will remove it ; especially if you
also nick the skin here and there with a small knife
to let it out. The hare should be kept at a distance
from the fire at first Serve with a fine froth, rich gra-
vy, melted butter, and currant-jelly sauce ; the gravy
in the dish. For stuffing use the liver, an anchovy,
some fat bacon, a little suet, herbs, pepper, salt, nut-
meg, a little onion, crumbs of bread, and an egg to bind
it all.
The ears must be nicely cleaned and singed. They
are reckoned a dainty.
To jug cm old Hare.
After cleaning and skinning, cut it up; and season it
with pepper, salt, allspice, pounded mace, and a little
nutmeg. Put it into a jar with an onion, a clove or
two, a bunch of sweet herbs, a piece of coarse beef, and
the carcase-bones over all. Tie the jar down with a
bladder, and leather or strong paper; and put it into
a sauce-pan of water up to the neck, but no higher.
Keep the water boiling five hours. When it is to be
served, boil the gravy up with a piece of butter and
flour; and if the meat gets cold, warm it in this, but
not to boil.
103
GAME, &C.
Broiled und hashed Hare.
The flavour of broiled bare is particularly fine ; tile
legs or wings must be seasoned first ; rub with cold
butter, and serve very hot.
The other parts, warmed with gravy, and a little
stuffing, may be served separately.
To pot Hare ,
For which an old one does well, as likewise for soup
and pie.
After seasoning it, bake it with butter. When cold,
take the meat from the bones, and beat it in a mortar.
If not high enough, add salt, mace, pepper, and a piece
of the fiuest fresh butter melted in a spoonful or two of
the gravy that came from the hare. When well mixed,
put it into small pots, and cover with butter. *rhe legs
and back should be baked at the bottom of the jar, to
keep them moist, and the bones be put over them.
Rabbits
May be eaten various ways, as follows :
Roasted with stuffing and gravy, like hare, or without
stuffing; with sauce of the liver and parsley chopped in
melted butter, pepper, and salt; or larded.
Boiled, and smothered with onion-sauce; the butter
to be melted with milk instead of water.
Fried in joints, with dried or fried parsley. The same
liver-sauce, this way also.
Fricasseed, as before directed (in page 91.) for chick-
ens.
In a pie, as chicken, with forcemeat, &c. In this way
they are excellent when young.
Potted.
To make a Rabbit taste much like Hare.
Choose one that is young, but full-grown : hang it in
the skin three or four days; then skin it; and lay it,
without washing, in a seasoning of black pepper and
allspice in a very fine powder, a glass of port wine, and
10-1
DOMESTIC COOKKKY.
tlie same quantity of vinegar. Baste it occasionally,
for forty hours; then stuff it; and roast it as a hare, and
with the same sauce. Do not wash off the liquor that
it was soaked in.
To pot Rabbits.
Cut up two or three young but full-grown ones, and
take the leg-bones off at the thigh; pack them as closely
as possible in a small pan, after seasoning them with
pepper, mace, Cayenne, salt, and allspice, all in very
fine powder. Make the top as smooth as you can. Keep
out the heads and the carcasses, but take off the meat
about the neck. Put a good deal of butter, and bake
the whole gently. Keep it two days in the pan ; then
shift it into small pots, adding butter. The livers also
should be added, as they eat well.
To blanch Rabbit, Fowl, <£c.
Is to set it on the lire in a small quantity of cold water,
and let it boil : as soon as it boils, it is to be taken out,
and put into cold water for a few minutes.
PART IV.
SOUPS AND GRAVIES.
General Directions respecting Soups and Gravies.
When there is any fear of gravy-meat being spoilt
before it be wanted, season well, and fry it lightly,
which will preserve it two days longer; but the gravy
is best when the juices are fresh.
When soups or gravies are to be put by, let them be
changed every day into fresh scalded pans. Whatever
has vegetables boiled in it, is apt to turn sour sooner than
juices of meat. Never keep any gravy, &c. in metal.
i
SOUPS.
105
When fat remains on any soup, a tea-cupful of flour
and water mixed quite smooth, and boiled-in, will take
it off.
If richness, or greater consistency be wanted, a good
lump of butter mixed with flour, and boiled in the soup,
will give either of these qualities.
Long boiling is necessary to give the full flavour of
the ingredients, therefore time should be allowed for
soups and gravies ; and they are best if made the'day be-
fore they are wanted.
Soups and gravies are far better when the meat is put
at the bottom of the pan, and stewed, and the herbs,
roots, &c. with butter, than when water is put to the
meat at first ; and the gravy that is drawn from the meat
should be almost dried up before the water is put to it.
Don’t use the sediment of gravies, &c. that have stood
to be cold. When onions are strong, boil a turnip with
them, if for sauce ; this will make them mild.
If soups or gravies are too weak, do not cover them
in boiling, that the watery particles may evaporate.
A clear jelly of Cow-heels is very useful to keep in
the house, being a great improvement to soups and
gravies.
Truffles and morels thicken soups and sauces, and give
them a fine flavour. Wash half an ounce of each care-
fully, then simmer them a few minutes in water, and
add them with the liquor, to boil in the sauce, &c. till
tender.
SOUPS, &c.
Scotch Mutton Broth.
Soak a neck of mutton in water for an hour ; cut off
the scrag, and put it into a stew-pot with two quarts of
water. As soon as it boils, skim it well, and then sim-
mer it an hour and a half; then take the best end of the
mutton, cut it into pieces (two bones in each,) take
some of the fat off, and put as many as you think proper :
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
10G
skim the moment the fresh meat boils up, and every
quarter of an hour afterwards. Have ready four or five
carrots, the same number of turnips and three onions,
all cut, but not small; and put them in soon enough to
get quite tender : add four large spoonfuls of Scotch bar-
ley, first wetted with cold water. The meat should stew
three hours. Salt to taste, and serve all together.
Twenty minutes before serving, put in some chopped
parsley. It is an excellent winter-dish.
Veal Broth.
Stew a small knuckle in about three quarts of water,
two ounces of rice, a little salt, and a blade of mace, till
the liquor is half wasted away.
Colouring for Soups or Gravies.
Put four ounces of lump sugar, a gill of water, and
half an ounce of the finest butter, into a small tosser, and
set it over a gentle fire. Stir it with a wooden spoon,
till of a bright brown. Then add half a pint of water;
boil, skim, and when cold, bottle and cork it close. Add
to soup or gravy as much of this as will give a proper
colour.
A clear brown Stock for Gravy-Soup or Gravy.
Put a knuckle of veal, a pound of lean beef, and a
pound of the lean of a gammon of bacon, all sliced, into
a stew-pan with two or three scraped carrots, two onions,
two turnips, two heads of celery sliced, and two quarts
of water. Stew the meat quite tender, but do not let it
brown. When thus prepared, it will serve either for
soup, or brown or white gravy; if for brown gravy, put
some of the above colouring, and boil a few minutes.
An excellent Soup.
Take a scrag or knuckle of veal, slices of undressed
gammon of bacon, onions, mace, and a small quantity of
water; simmer till very strong; and lower it with a good
beef-broth made the day before, and stewed till the meat
soups. 107
is done to rags. Add cream, vermicelli, and almonds,
as will be directed in tlie next receipt, and a roll.
A n excellent white Soup.
Take a scrag of mutton, a knuckle of veal after cutting
off as much meat as will make collops, two or three
shank-bones of mutton nicely cleaned, and a quarter of
a pound of very fine undrest lean gammon of bacon ; with
a bunch of sweet herbs, a piece of fresh lemon-peel, two
or three onions, three blades of mace, and a desert-spoon-
ful of white pepper; boil all in three quarts of water, till
the meal falls quite to pieces. Next day take oil the fat,
clear the jelly from the sediment, and put it into a sauce-
pan of the nicest tin. If macaroni is used, it should be
added soon enough to get perfectly tender, after soaking
in cold water. Vermicelli may be added after the thick-
ening, as it requires less time to do. Have ready the
thickening, which is to be made as follows :
Blanch a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, and
beat them to a paste in a marble mortar, with a spoonful
of water to prevent their oiling; mince a large slice of
drest veal or chicken, and beat with it a piece of stale
white bread ; add all this to a pint of thick cream, a bit
of fresh lemon-peel, and a blade of mace, in the finest
powder. Boil it a few minutes ; add to it a pint of soup,
and strain and pulp it through a coarse sieve : this thick-
ening is then fit for putting to the rest, which should
boil for balf an hour afterwards.
A plainer white Soup.
Two or three pints of soup may be made of a small
knuckle of veal, with seasoning as directed in the last
article ; and both served together, with the addition of
a quarter of a pint of good milk. Two spoonfuls of
cream, and a little ground rice, will give it a proper
thickness.
Cl Met Soup.
Scald and clean three or four sets of goose or duck
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
108
giblets : set them to stew, with a pound or two of gravy-
beef, scrag of mutton, or the bone of a knuckle of veal ;
an ox-tail, or some shanks of mutton ; with three onions,
a large bunch of sweet herbs, a tea-spoonful of white
pepper, and a large spoonful of salt. Put five pints of
water, and simmer till the gizzards (which must be each
in four pieces) are quite tender : skim nicely, and add
a quarter of a pint of cream, two tea-spoonfuls of mush-
room-powder, and an ounce of butter mixed with a
desert-spoonful of flour. Let it boil a few minutes, and
serve with the giblets. It may be seasoned, instead of
cream, with two glasses of sherry or Madeira, a large
spoonful of ketchup, and some Cayenne. When in the
tureen, add salt.
Partridge Soup.
Take two old partridges ; skin them ; and cut them
into pieces, with three or four slices of ham, a stick of
celery, and three large onions cut into slices. Fry them
all in butter till brown, but take care not to burn them.
Then put them into a stew-pan with five pints of boil-
ing water, a few pepper-corns, a shank or two of mut-
ton, and a little salt. Stew it gently two hours; then
strain it through a sieve, and put it again into a stew-
pan, with some stewed celery and fried bread ; when it
is near boiling, skim it, pour it into a tureen, and serve
it up hot.
Macaroni Soup.
Boil a pound of the best macaroni in a quart of good
stock till quite tender; then take out half, and put it
into another stew-pot. To the remainder add some
more stock, and boil it till you can pulp all the macaro-
ni through a fine sieve. Then add together that, the
two liquors, a pint or more of cream boiling-hot, the
macaroni that was first taken out, and half a pound of
grated Parmesan cheese ; make it hot, but do not let it
109
SOUPS.
boil. Serve with the crust of a French roll cut into the
size of a shilling.
A Pepper-poi, to be served in a Tureen.
To three quarts of water put vegetables according to
the season; in summer, peas, lettuce, and spinach; in
winter, carrots, turnips, celery, and onions in both. Cut
small, and stew with two pounds of neck of mutton, or
a fowl, and a pound of pickled pork, in three quarts of
water, till quite tender.
On first boiling, skim. Half an hour before serving,
add a lobster, or crab, cleared from the bones. Season
with salt and Cayenne. A small quantity of rice should
be put in with the meat. Some people choose very small
suet dumplings boiled with it. Should any fat rise, skim
nicely, and put half a cup of water with a little flour.
Pepper-pot may be made of various things, and is un-
derstood to be a due proportion of fish, flesh, fowl, ve-
getables, and pulse.
Turnip Soup.
Take off a knuckle of veal all the meat that can be
made into cutlets, &c. and set the remainder on to stew
with an onion, a bunch of herbs, a blade of mace, and
five pints of water; cover it close; and let it do on a
slow fire, four or five hours at least. Strain it, and set
it by till next day; then take the fat and sediment from
it, and simmer it with turnips cut into small dice till
tender, seasoning it with salt and pepper. Before serv-
ing, rub down half a spoonful of flour with half a pint
of good cream, and the size of a walnut of butter. Let
a small roll simmer in the soup till wet through, and
serve this with it. It should be as thick as middling
cream.
Old-Peas Soup.
Save the water of boiled pork or beef ; and if too salt,
put as much fresh water to it; or use fresh water entire-
ly with roast-beef bones, a ham or gammon-bone, or an
DOMESTIC COOKERT.
110
anchovy or two. Simmer these with some good whole
or split peas ; the smaller the quantity of water at first,
the better. Simmer till the peas will pulp through a
colander; then set the pulp, and more of the liquor that
boiled the peas, with two carrots, a turnip, a leek, and
a stick of celery cut into bits, to stew till all is quite
tender. The last requires less time; an hour will do
for it.
When ready, put fried bread cut into dice, dried mint
rubbed fine, pepper, and (if wanted) salt, into the
tureen, and pour the soup in.
Green-Peas Soup.
In shelling the peas, divide the old from the yonng ;
put the old ones, with an ounce of butter, a pint of
water, the outside leaves of a lettuce or two, two onions,
pepper and salt, to stew till you can pulp the peas; and
when you have done so, put to the liquor that stewed
them some more water, the hearts and tender stalks of
the lettuces, the young peas, a handful of spinach cut
small, and salt and pepper to relish properly, and stew
till quite soft. If the soup is too thin, or not rich enough,
either of these faults may be removed by adding an
ounce or two of butter, mixed with a spoonful of rice
or wheat, Hour and boiled with it half an hour. Be-
fore serving, boil some green mint shred fine in the
soup.
When there is plenty of vegetables, no meat is neces-
sary; but if meat be preferred, a pig’s foot or ham-bone,
&c. may be boiled with the old peas, which is called
the stock. More butter than is mentioned above may
be used with advantage, if the soup is required to be
very rich.
When peas first come in, or are very young, the stock
may be made of the shells washed, and boiled till they
will pulp with the above; more thickening will then be
wanted.
SOUPS.
Ill
Gravy Soup.
Wash and soak a leg of beef; break the bone, and set
it on the fire with a gallon of water, a large bunch of
sweet herbs, two large onions sliced and fried a fine
brown (but not burnt,) two blades of mace, three cloves,
twenty berries of allspice, and forty black peppers.
Stew till the soup is as rich as you choose; then take
out the meat, which will be fit for the servants’ table
with a little of the gravy. Next day take off the cake
of fat, which will serve for hasting, or for common pie-
crust. Have ready such vegetables as you choose to
serve. Cut carrots, turnips, and celery, small, and sim-
mer till tender : some people do)not like them to be sent
to table, only the flavour of them. Boil vermicelli a
quarter of an hour ; and add to it a large spoonful of soy,
and one of mushroom-ketchup. A French roll should
he made hot, put into the soup till moist through, and
served in the tureen.
Vegetable Soup.
Pare and slice five or six cucumbers ; and add to these
the inside of as many cos-lettuces, a sprig or two of mint,
two or three onions, some pepper and salt, a pint and a
half of young peas, and a little parsley. Put these, with
half a pound of fresh butter, into a sauce-pan, to stew in
their own liquor, near a gentle fire, half an hour; then
pour two quarts of boiling- water to the vegetables, and
stew them two hours; rub down a little flour into a tea-
cupful of water, boil it with the rest fifteen or twenty
minutes, and serve it.
Another way. — Peel and slice six large onions, six po-
tatoes, six carrots, and four turnips ; fry them in half a
pound of butter, and pour on them four quarts of boiling
water. Toast a crust of bread as brown and hard as pos-
sible, but do not burn it ; put that, some celery, sweet
herbs, white pepper, and salt to the above; stew it all
gently four hours, then strain it through a coarse cloth :
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
112
have ready sliced carrot, celery', and a little turnip, and
add to your liking; and stew them tender in the soup.
If approved, you may. add an anchovy, and a spoonful
of ketchup.
Carrot Soup.
Put some beef-bones, with four quarts of the liquor in
which a leg of mutton or beef has been boiled, two large
ouions, a turnip, pepper, and salt into a sauce-pan, and
stew for three hours. Have ready six large carrots
scraped and cut thin; strain the soup on them, and stew
them till soft enough to pulp through a hair sieve or
coarse cloth : then boil the pulp with the soup, which is
to be as thick as peas-soup. Use two wooden spoons to
rub the carrots through. Make the soup the day before
it is to be used. Add Cayenne. Pulp only the red part
of the carrot, and not the yellow.
Onion Soup.
Into the water that has boiled a leg or neck of mutton,
put carrots, turnips, and (if you have one) a shank-bone,
and simmer two hours. Strain it on six onions, first
sliced and fried of a light brown ; simmer three hours,
skim it carefully, and serve. Put into it a little roll, or
fried bread.
Spinach Soup.
Shred two handfuls of spinach, a turnip, two onions,
a head of celery, two carrots, and a little thyme and
parsley. Put all into a stew-pot, with a bit of butter the
size of a walnut, and a pint of broth, or the water in
which meat has been boiled; stew till the vegetables are
quite tender; work them through a coarse cloth or sieve
with a spoon; then to the pulp of the vegetables, and
liquor, put a quart of fresh water, pepper and salt, and
boil all together. Have ready some suet-dumplings, the
size of a walnut; and before you put the soup into the
tureen, put them into it. The suet must not be shred
too fine; and take care that it is quite fresh.
SOUPS.
113
Scotch- Leek Soup.
Put the water that has boiled a leg of mutton into a
stew-pot, with a quantity of chopped leeks, and pepper
and salt; simmer them an hour : then mix some oatmeal
with a little cold water quite smooth, pour it into the
soup, set it on a slow part of the fire, aud let it sim-
mer gently ; but take care that it does not burn to the
bottom.
Hare Soup.
Take an old hare that is good for nothing else, cut it
into pieces, and put to it a pound and a half of lean beef,
two or three shank-bones of mutton well cleaned, a slice
of lean bacon or ham, an onion, and a bunch of sweet
herbs; pour on it two quarts of boiling water; cover the
jar into which you put these, with bladder and paper,
and set it in a kettle of water. Simmer till the hare is
stewed to pieces; strain off the liquor, and give it one
boil, with an anchovy cut into pieces; and add a spoon-
ful of soy, a little Cayenne, and salt. A few fine force-
meat-balls, fried of a good brown, should be served in
the tureen.
Ox- Rump Soup.
Two or three rumps of beef will make it stronger than
a much larger quantity of meat without these; and form
a very nourishing soup.
Make it like gravy-soup, and give it what flavour or
thickening you like. ,
Hessian Soup and Ragout.
Clean the root of a neat’s tongue very nicely, and half
an ox’s head, with salt and water, and soak them after-
wards in water only. Then stew them in five or six
quarts of water, till tolerably tender. Let the soup stand
to be cold ; take off the fat, which will make good paste
for hot meat-pies, or will do to baste. Put to the soup
a pint of split peas, or a quart of whole ones, twelve car-
H
DOMESTIC tOOKEKY.
114
rots, six turnips, six potatoes, six large onions, a bunch
of sweet herbs, and two heads of celery. Simmer them
without the meat, till the vegetables are done enough to
pulp with the peas through a sieve : and the soup will
then be about the thickness of cream. Season it with
pepper, salt mace, allspice, a clove or two, and a little
Cayenne, all in fine powder. If the peas are bad, the
soup may not be thick enough; then boil in it a slice of
roll, and put it through the colander; or add a little rice-
liour, mixing it by degrees.
For the Ragout, cut the nicest part of the head, the
kernels, and part of the fat of the root of the tongue,
into small thick pieces. Rub these with some of the
above seasoning, as you put them into a quart of the li-
quor, kept out for that purpose before the vegetables
were added; flour well, and simmer them till nicely
tender. Then put a little mushroom and walnut-ket-
chup, a little soy, a glass of port wine, and a tea-spoon-
ful of made mustard; and boil all up together before
served. If for company, small eggs and forcemeat-
balls.
This way furnishes an excellent soup and a ragout at
a small expense, and they are not common. The other
part will warm for the family.
Soup a-la-sap.
Boil half a pound of grated potatoes, a pound of beef
sliced thin, a pint of grey peas, an onion, and three
ounces of rice, in six pints of water to five; strain it
through a colander: then pulp the peas to it, and turn it
into a sauce-pan again with two heads of celery sliced.
Stew it tender, and add pepper and salt; and when you
serve add also fried bread. v
Portable Soup.
Boil one or two knuckles of veal, one or two shins of
beef, and three pounds of beef, in as much water only
as will cover them, 'lake the marrow out of the bones :
SOUPS.
115
put any sort of spice you like, and three large onions.
When the meat is done to rags, strain it off, and put it
into a very cold place. When cold, take off the cake of
fat (which will make crusts for servants’ pies,) put the
soup into a doubled-bottomed tin sauce-pan, and set it on
a pretty quick fire, hut don’t let it burn. It must boil
fast and uncovered, and be stirred constantly, for eight
hours. Put it into a pan, and let it stand in a cold place
a day ; then pour it into a round soup china-dish, and
set the dish into a stew-pan of boiling water on a stove,
and let it boil, and be now and then stirred, till the soup
is thick and ropy ; then it is enough. Pour it into the
little round part at the bottom of cups or basins turned
upside down, to form cakes ; and when cold, turn them
out on flannel to dry. Keep them in tin canisters.
When they are to be used, melt them in boiling water ;
and if you wish the flavour of herbs, or any thing else,
boil it first, strain off the water, and melt the soup in it.
This is very convenient in the country, or at sea, where
fresh meat is not always at hand ; as by this means a
basin of soup may be made in five minutes.
Soup maiyre.
Melt half a pound of butter into a stew-pan, shake it
round, and throw in six middling onions sliced. Shake
the pan well for two or three minutes ; then put to it five
heads of eelery, two handfuls of spinach, two cabbage-
lettuces cut small, and some parsley. Shake the pan
well for ten minutes ; then put in two quarts of water,
some crusts of bread, a tea-spoonful of beaten pepper,
three or four blades of mace ; and if you have any white
beet leaves, add a large handful of them cut small.
Boil gently an hour. J ust before serving, beat-in two
yolks of eggs and a large spoonful of vinegar.
Another. — Flour and fry a quart of green peas, four
onions sliced, the coarse stalks of celery, a carrot, a tur-
nip, and a parsnip; then pour on them three quarts of
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
116
water. Let it simmer till the whole will pulp through
a sieve. Then boil in it the best of the celery cut
thin.
Stock for brown or while Fish-Soups.
Take a pound of skate, four or five flounders, and two
pounds of eels. Clean them well, and cut them into
pieces : cover them with water; and season them with
mace, pepper, salt, an onion stuck with cloves, a head
of celery, two parsley-roots sliced, and a bunch of sweet
herbs. Simmer an hour and a half closely covered, and
then strain it off for use. If for brown soup, first fry
the fish brown in butter, and then do as above. It will
not keep more than two or three days.
Eel Soup.
Take three pounds of small eels : put to them two
quarts of water, a crust of bread, three blades of mace,
some whole pepper, an onion, and a bunch of sweet
herbs ; cover them close, and stew till the fish is quite
broken ; then strain it off. Toast some bread, cut it into
dice, and pour the soup on it boiling. A piece of car-
rot may be put in at first. This soup will be as rich as if
made of meat. A quarter of a pint of rich cream, with
a tea-spoonful of flour rubbed smooth in it, is a great
improvement.
Skate Soup.
Make it of the stock for fish-soup (as directed above,
with an ounce of vermicelli boiled in it, a little before
it is served. Then add half a pint of cream, beaten with
the yolks of two eggs. Stir it near, but not on, the fire.
Serve it with a small French roll made hot in a Dutch
oven, and then soaked in the soup an hour.
Excellent Lobster Soup.
Take the meat from the claws, bodies, and tails, of
six small lobsters ; take away the brown fur, and the bag
in the head ; beat the fins, chine, and small claws, in a
mortar. Boil it very gently in two quarts of water, with
SO ITS.
117
the crumb of a French roll, some white pepper, salt, two
anchovies, a large onion, sweet herbs, and abit of lemon-
peel, till you have extracted the goodness of them all.
Strain it off. Beat the spawn in a mortar, with a bit
of butter, a quarter of a nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of
flour; mix it with a quart of cream. Cut the tails into
pieces, and give them a boil up with the cream and soup.
Serve with forcemeat-ball3 made of the remainder of
the lobster, mace, pepper, salt, a few crumbs, and an
egg or two. Let the balls be made up with a hit of flour,
and heated in the soup.
Craw-fish or Prawn Soup.
Boil six whitings, and a large eel, (or the eel and half
a thornback, well cleaned,) with as much water as will
cover them ; skin them clean, and put in whole pepper,
mace, ginger, parsley, an onion, a little thyme, and
three cloves. Boil to a mash. Pick fifty crawfish, or
a hundred prawns ; pound the shells, and a little roll ; but
first boil them with a little water, vinegar, salt, and herbs;
put this liquor over the shells in a sieve; then pour the
other soup, clear from the sediment. Chop a lobster,
and add this to it, with a quart of good beef-gravy : add
also the tails of the crawfish or the prawns, and some
flour and butter ; and season as may be liked, if not high
enough.
Oyster Soup.
Take two quarts of fisli-stock, as directed in page. 116;
beat the yolks of ten hard eggs, and the hard part of two
quarts of oysters, in a mortar, and add this to the stock.
Simmer it all for half an hour; then strain it off, and
put it and the oysters (cleared of the beards, and nicely
washed) into the soup. Simmer five minutes : have
ready the yolks of six raw eggs well beaten, and add
them to the soup. Stir it all well one way on the side of
the fire till it is thick and smooth, but don't let it boil.
Serve all together.
118
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Oyster Mouth Soup.
Make a rich mutton broth, with two large onions,
three blades of mace, and black pepper. When strained
pour it on a hundred and fifty oysters, without the beards,
and a bit of butter rolled in flour. Simmer gently a
quarter of an hour, and serve.
GRAVIES.
General directions respecting Gravies.
Gravy may be made quite as good of the skirts of
beef, and the kidney, as of any other meat, prepared in
the same way.
An ox kidney, or milt, makes good gravy, cut all to
pieces, and prepared as other meat; and so will the
shank-end of mutton that has been dressed, if much be
not wanted.
The shank-bones of mutton are a great improvement
to the richness of gravy ; but first soak them well, and
scour them clean.
Taragon gives the flavour of French cookery, and in
high gravies is a great improvement ; but it should be
added only a short time before serving.
To draw Gravy that will keep a Week.
Cut lean beef thin, put it into a frying-pan without
any butter, and set it on a fire covered, but take care it
does not burn : let it stay till all the gravy that comes
out of the meat is dried up into it again ; put as much
water as will cover the meat, and let that stew away.
Then put to the meat a small quantity of water, herbs,
onions, spice, and a bit of lean ham ; simmer till it is
rich, and keep it in a cool place. Don’t take off the fat
till going to be used.
Ctear Gravy.
Slice beef thin ; broil a part of it over a very clear
quick fire, just enough to give colour to the gravy, but
not to dress it : put that and the raw into a very nicely
GRAY IKS.
119
tinned stew-pan, with two onions, a clove or two, whole
hlack peppers, berries of allspice, and a bunch of sweet
herbs : cover it with hot water, give it one boil, and skim
it well two or three times ; then cover it, and simmer till
quite strong.
Cullis, or broivn Gravy.
Lay over the bottom of a stew-pan as much lean veal
as will cover it an inch thick ; then cover the veal with
thin slices of undressed gammon, two or three onions,
two or three bay-leaves, some sweet herbs, two blades
of mace, and three cloves. Cover the stew-pan, and
set it over a slow fire ; but when the juices come out,
let the fire be a little quicker. When the meat is of a
fine brown, fill the pan with good beef-broth, boil and
skim it, then simmer an hour : add a little water mixed
with as much flour as will make it properly thick : boil
it half au hour, and strain it. This will keep a week.
Bechamel, or xvhite Sauce.
Cut lean veal into small slices, and the same quantity
of lean bacon or ham : put them into a stew-pan with s
good piece of butter, an onion, a blade of mace, a few
mushroom-buttons, a bit of thyme, and a bay-leaf; fry
the whole over a very slow fire, but not to brown it ;
thicken it with flour; then put an equal quantity of good
broth, and rich cream ; let it boil half an hour, and stir
it all the time ; strain it through a soup-strainer.
A Gravy without Meat.
Put a glass of small beer, a glass of water, some pep-
per, salt, lemon-peel grated, a bruised clove or two, and
a spoonful of walnut-pickle, or mushroom-ketchup, into
a basin. Slice an onion, flour and fry it in a piece of
butter till it is brown. Then turn all the above into a
small tosser with the onion, and simmer it covered
twenty minutes. Strain it off for use, and when cold
take off the fat.
120
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
A rich Gravy.
Cut beef into thin slices, according to the quantity
wanted ; slice onions thin, and flour both; fry them of
a light pale-brown, but don’t on any account suffer them
to get black : put them into a stew-pan, pour boiling
water on the browning in the frying-pan, boil it up, and
pour on the meat. Put to it a bunch of parsley, thyme,
and savoury, a small bit of knotted marjoram, the same
of taragon, some mace, berries of allspice, whole black
peppers, a clove or two, and a bit of ham, or gammon
of bacon. Simmer till you have extracted all the juices
of the meat ; and be sure to skim the moment it boils,
and often after. If for a hare, or stewed fish, anchovy
should be added.
Gravy for a Fowl when there is no Meat to make it of.
Wash the feet nicely, and cut them and the neck
small ; simmer them with a little bread browned, a slice
of onion, a bit of parsley and thyme, some pepper and
salt, and the liver and gizzard, in a quarter of a pint of
water till half-wasted. Take out the liver, bruise it,
and strain the liquor to it. Then thicken it with flour
and butter, and add a tea- spoonful of mushroom-ket-
chup, and it will be very good.
Veal Gravy.
Make it as directed forCullis, ( page 119;) but leave
out the spice, herbs, and flour. It should be drawn
very slowly; and if for white dishes, don’t let the meat
brown.
Gravy to make Mutton eat like Venison.
Pick a very stale woodcock, or snipe, cut it to pieces
(but first take out the bag from the entrails,) and sim-
mer with as much unseasoned meat-gravy as you will
want. Strain it, and serve in the dish.
Strong Fish Gravy.
Skin two or three eels, or some flounders ; gut and
wash them very clean; cut them into small pieces, and
G HA V I E3.
121
put into a sauce-pan. Cover them with water, and add
a little crust of bread toasted brown, two blades of
mace, some whole pepper, sweet herbs, a piece of le-
mon-peel, an anchovy or two, and a tea-spoonful of
horse-radish. Cover close, and simmer ; add a bit of
butter and flour, and boil with the above.
Savoury Jelly , to put over Cohl Pies.
Make it of a small bare knuckle of leg or shoulder of
veal, or a piece of scrag of that, or mutton ; or, if the
pie be of fowl or rabbit, the carcases, necks, and heads,
added to any piece of meat, will be sufficient, observing
to give consistence by cow-heel or shanks of mutton.
Put the meat, a slice of lean ham or bacon, a faggot of
different herbs, two blades of mace, an onion or two, a
small bit of lemon-peel, and a tea-spoonful of Jamaica
pepper bruised, and the same of whole pepper, and
three pints of water, in a stew-pot that shuts very close.
As soon as it boils skim it well, and let it simmer very
slowly till quite strong; strain it, and when cold take
off the fat with a spoon first, and then, to remove every
particle of grease, lay a clean piece of cap or blotting-
paper on it. When cold, if not clear, boil it a few
minutes with the whites of two eggs, (but don’t add the
sediment,) and pour it through a uice sieve, with a nap-
kin in it, which has been dipped in boiling water, to
prevent waste.
Jelly, to cover cold Fish.
Clean a maid, and put it into three quarts of water,
with a calfs-foot, or cow-heel, a stick of horse-radish,
an onion, three blades of mace, some white pepper, a
piece of lemon-peel, and a good slice of lean gammon.
Stew until it will jelly; strain it off; when cold remove
every bit of fat; take it up from the sediment, and boil
it with a glass of sherry, the whites of four or five eggs,
and a piece of lemon. Boil without stirring; and after
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
122
a few minutes set it by to stand half an hour, and strain
it through a bag, or sieve, with a cloth in it. Cover the
tish with it when cold.
PART V.
SAUCES, &c.
A very good Sauce, especially to hide the had Colour
of Fowls.
Cut the livers, slices of lemon in dice, scalded par-
sley, and hard eggs : add salt, and mix them with but-
ter, boil them up, and pour over the fowls.
This will do for roast rabbit.
White Sauce for Fricassee of Fowls, Rabbits, White
Meat, Fish, or Vegetables.
It is seldom necessary to buy meat for this favourite
sauce, as the proportion of that flavour is but small.
The water that has boiled fowls, veal, or rabbit ; or a
little broth, that may be in the house; or the feet and
necks of chicken, or raw or dressed veal, will suffice.
Stew with a little water any of these, with a bit of le-
mon-peel, some sliced onion, some white pepper-corns,
a little pounded mace, or nutmeg, and a bunch of sweet
herbs, until the flavour be good, then strain it, and add
a little good cream, a piece of butter, and a little flour;
salt to your taste. A squeeze of lemon may be added
after the sauce is taken off the fire, shaking it well.
Y oik of egg is often used in fricassee, but if you have
any cream it is better; and the former is apt to curdle
Sauce for Wild Fowl.
Simmer a tea-cupful of port- wine, the same quantity
SAUCES.
123
of good meat-gravy, a little shalot, a little pepper, salt, a
grate of nutmeg, and a bit of mace, for ten minutes ; put
in a bit of butter and flour, give it all one boil, and
pour it through the birds. In general they are not
stuffed as tame, but may be done so it liked.
Another for the same, or for Ducks.
Serve a rich gravy in the dish : cut the breast into
slices, but don’t take them off ; cut a lemon, and put
pepper and salt on it; then squeeze it on the breast, and
pour a spoonful of gravy over before you help.
An excellent Sauce for Carp, or boiled Turkey .
Rub half a pound of butter with a tea-spoonful of
flour, put to it a little water, melt it, and add near a
quarter of a pint of thick cream, and half an ancho-
vy chopped fine, not washed; set it over the fire; and
as it boils up, add a large spoonful of red India soy. If
that does not give it a fine colour, put a little more.
Turn it into the sauce-tureen, and put some salt and
half a lemon : stir it well to hinder it from curdling.
Sauee for Fold of any sort.
Boil some veal-gravy, pepper, salt, the juice of a
Seville orange and a lemon, and a quarter as much of
port wine as of gravy; and pour it into the dish, or a
boat.
Sauce for cold Forcl, or Partridge.
Rub down in a mortar the yolks of two eggs boiled
hard, an anchovy, two desert- spoonfuls of oil, three of
vinegar, a shalot, Cayenne if approved, and a tea-
spoonful of mustard. All should be pounded before
the oil is added. Then strain it. Slialot-vinegar in-
stead of shalot, eats well.
A very fine Mushroom Sauce for Fowls, or Rabbits.
Wash and pick a pint of young mushrooms, and rub
them with salt, to take off the tender skin. Put them
into a sauce- pan with a little salt, some nutmeg, a blade
of mace, a pint of cream, and a good piece of butter
124
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
rubbed in flour. Boil them up, and stir them till done;
then pour it round the chickens, &c. Garnish with
lemon.
If you cannot get fresh mushrooms, use pickled ones
done white, with a little mushroom-powder with the
cream, &c.
Lemon White Sauce, for boiled, Fowls.
Put the peel of a small lemon, cut very thin, into a
pint of sweet rich cream, with a sprig of lemon-thyme,
and ten white pepper-corns. Simmer gently till it
tastes well of the lemon : then strain it ; and thicken
it with a quarter of a pound of butter, and a desert-
spoonful of flour rubbed in it. Boil it up ; then pour
the juice of the lemon strained into it, stirring it well.
Dish the chickens, and then mix a little white gravy,
quite hot, with the cream, but don’t boil them together ;
add salt to your taste.
Liver Sauce.
Chop boiled liver of rabbits or fowls, and do it as
directed for lemon-sauce, ( page 127,) with a very iittle
pepper and salt, and some parsley.
Egg Sauce.
Boil the eggs hard, and cut them into small pieces ;
then put them to melted butter.
Onion Sauce.
Peel the onions, and boil them tender : squeeze the
water from them, then chop them, and add them to
butter that has been melted rich and smooth, as will be
hereafter directed, but with a little good milk instead of
water ; boil it up once, and serve it for boiled rabbits,
partridges, scrag or knuckle of veal, or roast mutton.
A turnip boiled with the onion makes them milder.
Clear Shalot Sauce.
Put a few chopped shalots into a little gravy boiled
clear, and near half as much vinegar ; season with pep-
per and salt : boil half an hour.
sauces. 12.5
To make Parsley Sauce when no Parsley-leaves are to
be had.
Tie up a little parsley-seed in a bit of clean muslin,
and boil it ten minutes in some water. Use this water
to melt the butter ; and throw into it a little boiled
spinach minced, to look like parsley.
Green Sauce, for green Geese, or Ducklings.
Mix a quarter of a pint of sorrel-juice, a glass of white
wine, and some scalded gooseberries. Add sugar, and
a bit of butter. Boil them up.
Bread Sauce.
Boil a large onion, cut into four, with some black
peppers and milk, till the onion is quite a pap. Pour
the milk strained on grated white stale bread, and co-
ver it. In an hour put it into a sauce- pan, with a good
piece of butter mixed with a little Hour; boil the whole
up together, and serve.
Dutch Sauce for Meat or Fish.
Put six spoonfuls of water, and four of vinegar, into a
sauce-pan warm, and thicken it with the yolks of two
eggs. Make it quite hot, but do not boil it ; squeeze
in the juice of half a lemon, and strain it through a
sieve.
Sauce Robart, for Rumps or Steaks.
Put a piece of butter, the size of an egg, into a sauce-
pan, set it over the fire, and when browning, throw in a
handful of sliced onions cut small ; fry them brown, but
don’t let them burn ; add half a spoonful of flour, shake
the onions in it, and give it another fry : then pour four
spoonfuls of gravy, and some pepper and salt, and boil
it gently ten minutes; skim off the fat; add a tea-spoon-
ful of made mustard, a spoonful of vinegar, and the
juice of half a lemon; boil it all, and pour it round the
steaks. They should be of a fine yellow brown, and
garnished with fried parsley and lemon.
126
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Benton Sauce, for hot or cold Roast Beef.
Grate, or scrape very fine, some horse-radish, a little
made mustard, some pounded white sugar, and four
large spoonfuls of vinegar. Serve in a saucer.
Sauce for Fish Pies, where cream is not ordered.
Take equal quantities of white wine not sweet, vine-
gar, oyster-liquor, and mushroom-ketchup ; boil them
up with an anchovy; strain ; and pour it through a fun-
nel into the pie after it is baked.
Another. — Chop an anchovy small, and boil it up
with three spoonfuls of gravy, a quarter of a pint of
cream, and a bit of butter and flour.
Toinata Sauce, for hot or cold Meats.
Put tomatas, when perfectly ripe, into an earthen jar;
and set it in an oven, when the bread is drawn, till they
are quite soft; then separate the skins from the pulp;
and mix this with capsicum-vinegar, and a few cloves
of garlick pounded, which must both be proportioned
to the quantity of fruit. Add powdered ginger and salt
to your taste. Some white-w’ine vinegar and Cayenne
may he used instead of capsicum-vinegar. Keep the
mixture in small wide-mouthed bottles, well corked,
and in a dry cool place.
Apple Sauce, for Goose and Roast Pork.
Pare, core, and slice some apples; and put them in a
stone jar, into a sauce-pan of water, or on a hot hearth.
If on a hearth, let a spoonful or two of water be put in,
to hinder them from burning. When they are done,
bruise them to a mash, and put to them a bit of butter
the size of a nutmeg, and a little brown sugar. Serve
it in a sauce-tureen.
The Old Currant Sauce for Venison.
Boil an ounce of dried currants in half a pint of wa-
ter a few minutes ; then add a small tea-cupful of bread-
crumbs, six cloves, a glass of port wine, and a bit of
butter. Stir it till the whole is smooth.
SAUCES.
127
Lemon Sauce.
Cut thin slices of lemon into very small dice, and put
them into melted butter; give it one boil, and pour it
over boiled fowls.
Carrier Sauce for Mutton.
Chop six shalots fine; and boil them up with a gill of
gravy, a spoonful of vinegar, some pepper, and salt.
Serve in a boat.
Ham Sauce.
When a ham is almost done with, pick all the meat
clean from the bone, leaving out any rusty part ; beat
the meat and the bone to mash with a rolling-pin ; put
it into a sauce-pan, with three spoonfuls of gravy; set
it over a slow fire, and stir it all the time, or it will stick
to the bottom. When it has been on some time, put to
it a small bundle of sweet herbs, some pepper, and half
a pint of beef-gravy ; cover it up, and let it stew over a
gentle fire. When it has a good flavour of the herbs,
strain off the gravy. A little of this is an improvement
to all gravies.
A very fine Fish Sauce.
Put into a very nice tin sauce-pan a pint of fine port
wine, a gill of mountain, half a pint of fine walnut-
ketchup, twelve anchovies, and the liquor that belongs
to them, a gill of walnut-pickle, the rind and juice of a
large lemon, four or five shalots, some Cayenne to taste,
three ounces of scraped horse-radish, three blades of
mace, and two tea-spoonfuls of made mustard ; boil it
all gently, till the rawness goes off ; then put it into
small bottles for use. Cork them very close, and seal
the top.
Another. — Chop twenty-four anchovies not washed,
and ten shalots, and scrape three spoonfuls of horse-
radish; which, with ten blades of mace, twelve cloves,
two sliced lemons, half a pint of anchovy-liquor, a quart
of hock, or Rhenish wine, and a pint of Water, boil to
128
P051EST1C COOKERY.
a quart: then strain off; and when cold, add three large
spoonfuls of walnut-ketchup, and put into small bottles,
well corked.
Fish Sauce without Butter.
Simmer very gently a quarter of a pint of vinegar
and half a pint of water (which must not be hard,)
with an onion, half a handful of horse-radish, and the
following spices lightly bruised; four cloves, two blades
of mace, and half a tea-spoonful of black pepper.
When the onion is quite tender, chop it small with two
anchovies, and set the whole on the fire to boil for a
few minutes, with a spoonful of ketchup. In the mean
time, have ready and well beaten, the yolks of three
fresh eggs; strain them, mix the liquor by degrees with
them, and when well mixed, set the sauce-pan over a
gentle fire, keeping a basin in one hand, into which toss
the sauce to and fro, and shake the sauce pan over the
fire, that the eggs may not curdle. Don’t boil them,
only let the sauce be hot enough to give it the thickness
of melted butter.
Fish Sauce a-la-Craster.
Thicken a quarter of a pound bf butter with flour,
and brown it; then put to it a pound of the best ancho-
vies cut small, six blades of pounded mace, ten cloves,
forty berries of black pepper and allspice, a few small
onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, (namely, savoury,
thyme, basil, and knotted marjoram,) and a little par-
sley and sliced horse-radish : on these pour half a pint
of the best sherry, and a pint and a half of strong gra-
vy. Simmer all gently for twenty minutes, then strain
it through a sieve, and bottle it for use : the way of
using it is, to boil some of it in the butter while melt-
ing.
A n excellent su!>stitute for Caper Sauce.
Boil slowly some parsley, to let it become a bad co-
lour, out, but don't chop it fine ; put it to melted butter,
SAUCES. J '2.0
with a tea-spoonful of salt, and a desert-spoonful of
vinegar. Boil up and serve.
Oyster Sauce.
Save the liquor in opening the oysters ; and boil it
with the beards, a bit of inace, and lemon-peel. In the
mean time throw the oysters into cold water, and drain
it off. Strain the liquor, and put it into a sauce-pan
with them, and as much butter, mixed with a little
milk, as will make sauce enough ; but first rub a little
ilour with it.
Set them over the fire, and stir all the time ; and
when the butter has boiled once or twice, take them off,
and keep the sauce-pan near the fire, but not on it ; for
if done too much, the oysters will be hard. Squeeze a
little lemon-juice, and serve.
If for company, a little cream is a great improve-
ment. Observe, the oysters will thin the sauce, so put
butter accordingly.
Lobster Sauce.
Pound the spawn, arid two anchovies; pour on them
two spoonfuls of gravy ; strain all into some butter
melted, as will be hereafter directed; then put in the
meat of the lobster, give it all one boil, and add a
squeeze of lemon.
Another way. — Leave out the anchovies and gravy;
and do it as above, either with or without a little salt
and ketchup, as you like. Many prefer the flavour of
the lobster and salt only.
Shrimp Sauce.
If the shrimps are not picked at home, pour a little
water over them to wash them ; put them to butter
melted thick and smooth, give them one boil, and add
the juice of a lemon.
A twhovy Sauce.
Chop one or two anchovies without washing, put
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
no
them to some flour and butter, and a little drop of wa-
ter ; stir it over the fire till it boils once or twice.
When the anchovies are good, they will be dissolved;
and the colour will he better than by the usual way.
To melt Butter, which is rarely well done, though a very
essential article.
Mix in the proportion of a tea-spoonful of flour to
four ounces of the best butter, on a trencher. Put it
into a small sauce-pan, and two or three table-spoonfuls
of hot water, boil quick a minute, shaking it all the
time. Milk used instead of water, requires rather less
' butter, and looks whiter.
Vingaret, for cold Fowl, or Meat.
Chop mint, parsley, and shalot, mix with salt, oil,
and vinegar. Serve in a boat.
Shalot Vinegar.
Split six or eight slialots; put them into a quart bot-
tle, and fill it up with vinegar, stop it, and in a mouth
it will be fit for use.
Camp Vinegar.
Slice a large head of garlick; and put it into a wide-
mouthed bottle, with half an ounce of Cayenne, two tea-
spoonfuls of real soy, two of walnut-ketchup, four an-
chovies chopped, a pint of vinegar, and enough cochi-
neal to give it the colour of lavender-drops. Let it
stand six weeks; then strain off quite clear, and keep
in small bottles sealed up.
Sugar Vinegar.
To every gallon of water put two pounds of the very
coarsest sugar, boil and skim thoroughly, then put one
quart of cold water for every gallon of hot. When cool,
put into it a toast spread with yeast. Stir it nine days;
then barrel, and set it in a place where the sun will lie
on it, with a bit of slate on the bung-hole. Make in
March, it will be ready in six months.
SAUCES.
131
When sufficiently sour it may be bottled, or may be
used from the cask with a wooden spigot and faucet.
Gooseberry Vinegar.
Boil spring water: and when cold, prtt to every three
quarts, a quart of bruised gooseberries in a large tub.
Let them remain sixty hours, stirring often; then strain
through, a hair bag, and to each gallon of liquor add a
pound of the coarsest sugar. Put it into a barrel, and a
toast and yeast; cover the bung-hole with a bit of slate,
&c. as above. The greater quantity of sugar and fruit,
the stronger the vinegar.
Cucumber Vinegar.
Pare and slice fifteen large cucumbers, and put them
in a stone jar, with three pints of vinegar, four large
onions sliced, two or three shalots, a little garlick, two
large spoonfuls of salt, three tea-spoonfuls of pepper,
and half a tea-spoonful of Cayenne. After standing
four days, give the whole a boil ; when cold, strain, and
filtre the liquor through paper. Keep in small bottles,
to add to salad, or eat with meat.
Wine Vinegar.
After making raisin wine, when the fruit has been
strained, lay it on a heap to heat, then to every hundred
weight put fifteen gallons of water — set the cask, and
put yeast, &c. as before.
As vinegar is so necessary an article in a family, and
one on which so great a profit is made, a barrel or two
might always be kept preparing, according to what
suited. If the raisins of wine were ready, that kind
might be made; if a great plenty of gooseberries made
them cheap, that sort; or if neither, then the sugar vine-
gar— so that the cask may not be left empty, and grow
musty.
Nasturtions , for Ccrpers.
Keep them a few days after they are gathered; then
pour boiling vinegar over them, and when cold, cover.
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
132
They will not be fit to eat for some months; but are
then finely flavoured, and by many preferred to capers.
T o make Mustard.
Mix the best Durham flour of mustard by degrees,
with boiling water, to a proper thickness, rubbing it
perfectly smooth ; add a little salt, and keep it in a small
jar close covered, and put only as much into the glass
as will be used soon; which should be wiped daily round
the edges.
Another way, for immediate use.
Mix the mustard with new milk by degrees, to be
quite smooth, and add a little raw cream. It is much
softer this way, is not bitter, and will keep well.
The patent mustard is by many preferred, and it is
perhaps as cheap, being always ready; and if the pots
are returned, three-pence is allowed for each.
A. tea-spoonful of sugar, to half a pint of mustard, is
a great improvement, and softens it.
Kitchen Pepper.
Mix in the finest powder, one ounce of ginger; of
cinnamon, black pepper, nutmeg, and Jamaica pepper,
half an ounce each ; ten cloves, and six ounces of salt.
Keep it in a bottle — it is an agreeable addition to any
brown sauces or soups.
Spice in powder, kept in small bottles close stopped,
goes much further than when used whole. It must be
dried before pounded ; and should be done in quantities
that may be wanted in three or four months. Nutmeg
need not be done— but the others should be kept in se-
parate bottles, with a little label on each.
To dry Mushrooms.
Wipe them clean ; and of the large take out the
brown, and peel off the skin. Lay them on paper to
dry in a cool oven, and keep them in paper bags, in a
dry place. AVhen used, simmer them in the gravy, and
they will swell to near their former size ; to simmer
SAUCES.
133
them in tlieir own liquor till it dry up into them, shak-
ing the pan, then drying on tin plates, is a good way,
with spice or not, as above, before made into powder.
Tie down with bladder; and keep in a dry place, or
in paper.
Mushroom Powder.
Wash half a peck of large mushrooms while quite
fresh, and free them from grit and dirt with flannel;
scrape out the black part clean, and do not use any that
are worm-eaten ; put them into a stew-pan over the fire
without water, with two large onions, some cloves, a
quarter of an ounce of mace, and two spoonfuls of white
pepper, all in powder; simmer and shake them till all
the liquor be dried up, but be careful they don’t burn.
Lay them on tins or sieves in a slow oven till they are
dry enough to beat to powder, then put the powder in
small bottles, corked, and tied closely, and keep in a
dry place.
A tea-spoonful will give a very fine flavour to any
soup or gravy, or any sauce ; and it is to be added just
before serving, and one boil given to it after it is put in.
To choose Anchovies.
They are preserved in barrels, with bay salt; no other
fish has the fine flavour of the anchovy. The best look
red and mellow, and the bones moist and oily: the flesh
should be high flavoured, the liquor reddish, and have a
fine smell.
Essence of Anchovies.
Take two dozen of anchovies, chop them, and with-
out the bone, but with some of their own liquor strained,
add them to sixteen large spoonfuls of water; boil gently
till dissolved, which will be in a few minutes — when
cold, strain and bottle it.
To keep Anchovies when the liquor dries.
Pour on them beef-brine.
134
DOMESTIC COOKKUV.
To malce Sprats taste like A nchovies.
Salt them well, and let tlie salt drain from them. In
twenty-four hours wipe them dry, hut don’t wash them.
Mix four ounces of common salt, an ounce of bay salt,
an ounce of saltpetre, a quarter of an ounce of sal pru-
nel, and half a tea-spoonful of cochineal; all in the finest
powder. Sprinkle it among three quarts of the fish,
and pack them in two stone jars. Keep in a cold place,
fastened down with a bladder.
These are pleasant on bread and butter; but use the
best for sauce.
Forcemeat,
Whether in the form of stuffing-balls, or for patties,
makes a considerable part of good cooking, by the fla-
vour it imparts to whatsoever dish it is added, if pro-
perly made.
Exact rules for the quantity cannot easily be given;
but the following observations may be useful, and habit
will soon give knowledge in mixing it to the taste.
At many tables, where every thing else is well done,
it is common to find very bad stuffing.
According to what it is wauted for, should be the se-
lection from the following list, observing that ot the
most pungent articles, least must be used. No one fla-
vour should predominate greatly; yet, if several dishes
be served the same day, there should be a marked va-
riety in the taste of the forcemeat, as well as of the gra-
vies. It should be consistent enough to cut with a
knife, but not dry and heavy.
Forcemeat Ingredients.
Cold fowl or veal.
Scraped ham.
Fat bacon.
Beef- suet.
Crumbs of bread.
Parsley.
Oysters.
Anchovy.
Taragon.
Savory.
Pennyroyal.
Knotted marjoram.
SAUCES.
135
White Pepper. Thyme.
Suit. Basil.
N utmeg. Y oiks of hard eggs.
Yolk and white of eggs Cayenne,
well beaten, to bind Garlick.
the mixture. Shalot.
Chives.
Jamaica pepper, in fine pow-
der, or two or three cloves.
The first column contains the articles of which the
forcemeat may be made, without any striking flavour;
and to those, may be added some of the different ingre-
dients of the second column, to vary the taste.
Forcemeat, to force Fowls or Meat.
Shred a little ham, or gammon, some cold veal, or
fowl, some beef-suet ; a small quantity of onion, some
parsley, very little lemon-peel, salt, nutmeg, or pounded
mace, and either white pepper, or Cayenne, and bread
crumbs.
Pound it in a mortar, and bind it with one or two
eggs beaten and strained. For forcemeat patties, the
mixture as above.
For cold savoury Pies.
The same; only substituting fat, or bacon, for suet.
The livers, (if the pie be of rab*bit or fowls) mixed with
fat and lean of pork, instead of bacon, and seasoned as
above, is excellent.
For Hare, see to roast, page 1 02.
Ditto, for baked Pike, page 15.
Ditto, for Pike, Haddock, and small Cod, page 16.
Ditto, for Soles, page 16.
Ditto, for Mackerel, page 14.
Ditto, for Fish Pie, page 139.
Very fine Forcemeat-balls, for Fish Soups, or Fish
Steweii, on maiyre days.
Beat the flesh and soft parts of a middling lobster,
136 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
half an anchovy, a large piece of boiled celery, the yolk
ol a hard egg, a little Cayenne, mace, salt, and white
pepper, with two table-spoonfuls of bread crumbs, one
ditto of oyster liquor, two ounces of butter warmed, and
two eggs long bea- eu : make into balls, and fry of a line
brown in butter.
Forcemeat fir Turtle.
A pound of fine fresh suet, one ounce of ready dressed
veal or chicken cnopped fine, crumbs of bread, a little
shalot or onion, salt, white pepper, nutmeg, mace,
penny-royal, paisley, and lemon-thyme finely shred;
beat as many fresh eggs, yolks and whites separately,
as will make the above ingredients into a moist paste;
roll into small ba Is, and boil them in fresh lard, put-
ting them in just is it l oils up. When of a light brown,
take them out, at.d dr tin them before the fire. If the
suet be moist or stale, a great many more eggs will be
necessary.
Balls made tb s ws y are remarkably light ; but be-
ing greasy, some peopls prefer them with less suet and
eggs.
Little Eggs for Tuttle.
Beat three ha1 d yolks of eggs in a mortar, and make
into a paste with the yolk of a raw one, roll it into
small balls, and throw'them into boiling water for two
minutes to harden.
Browning fo colour and flavour made-dislies.
Beat to powder four ounces of double refined sugar,
put it into a ve»y nice iron frying-pan, with one ounce
ol fine fresh butter, mix it well over a clear fire, and,
when it begins to froth, hold it up higher ; when of a
very fine dark brown, pour in a small quantity of a pint
of port, and the vliole by very slow degrees, stirring all
the time. Put to the above half an ounce of Jamaica,
and the same of black pepper, six cloves of shalot
peeled, three blades of mace bruised, three spooniuls of
SAVOURY PIES,
137
mushroom, and the same of walnut-ketchup, some salt,
and the finely pared rind of a lemon; boil gently fifteen
minutes, pour it into a basin till cold, take off the scum,
and bottle for use.
Casserol, or Rice Edging, for a Currie, or Fricassee.
After soaking and picking fine Carolina rice, boil it in
water, and a little salt, until tender, but not to a mash;
drain, and put it round the inner edge of the dish, to
the height of two inches; smooth it with the back of a
spoon, 'and wash it over with yolk of egg, and put it
into tiie oven for three or four minutes, then serve the
meat in the middle.
PART VI.
PIES, PUDDINGS, AND PASTRY.
SAVOURY PIES.
(Fruit Pies roill be placed under the head pastry.)
Observations on Savoury Pies.
There are few articles of cookery more generally
liked than relishing pies, if properly made; and they
may be made so of a great variety of things. Some are
best eaten when cold, and, in that case, there should be
no suet put into the forcemeat that is used with them.
If the pie is either made of meat that will take more
dressing, to make it extremely tender, than the baking
of the crust will allow; or, if it is to be served in an
earthen pie-form; observe the following preparation :
Take three pounds of the veiny piece of beef (for in-
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
138
stance) that has fat and lean; wash it, and season it
with salt, pepper, mace, and allspice, in fine powder,
rubbing them well in. Set it by the side of a slow fire,
in a stew-pot that will just hold it; put to it a piece of
butter, of about the weight of two ounces, and cover
it quite close; let it just simmer in its own steam till
it begins to shrink. When it is cold, add more season-
ing, forcemeat, and eggs : and if it is in a dish, put
some gravy to it before baking; hut if it is only in crust,
don’t put the gravy till after it is cold and in jelly, as
has been described in pages 118 and 119. Forcemeat
may he put both under and over the meat, if preferred
to halls.
Ed Pie.
Cut the eels in lengths of two or three inches, season
with pepper and salt, and place in the dish, with some
hits of butter, and a little water; and cover it with
paste.
Cod Pie.
Take a piece of the middle of a small cod, and salt it
well one night; next day wash it: season with pepper,
salt, and a very little nutmeg, mixed; place in a dish,
and put some butter on it, and a little good broth of
any kind into the dish.
Cover it with a crust; and when done, add a sauce of
a spoonful of broth, a quarter of a pint of cream, a little
flour and butter, a grate of lemon and nutmeg, and give
it one boil. Oysters may be added.
Mackerel will do well, hut do not salt them till used.
Parsley picked and put in, may be used instead of
oysters.
Sole Pie.
Split some soles from the hone, and cut the fins close;
season with a mixture of salt, pepper, a little nutmeg and
pounded mace, and put them in layers, with oysters.
They eat excellently. A pair of middling-sized ones
SAVOURY PIES.
139
will do, and half a hundred of oysters. Put in the dish
the oyster-liquor, two or three spoonfuls of broth, and
some butter. When the pie comes home, pour in a cup-
ful of thick cream.
Shrimp Pie, excellent.
Pick a quart of shrimps; if they are very salt, season
them with only mace and a clove or two. Mince two
or three anchovies; mix these with the spice, and then
season the shrimps. Put some butter at the bottom of
the dish, and over the shrimps, with a glass of sharp
white wine. The paste must be light and thin. They
do not take long baking.
Lobster Pie,
Boil two lobsters, or three small, take out the tails,
cut them in two, take out the gut, cut each in four pieces,
and lay in a small dish, put in then the meat of the claws,
and that you have picked out of the body; pick off the
furry parts from the latter, and take out the lady; the
spawn, beat in a mortar ; likewise all the shells : set them
on to stew with some water, two or three spoonfuls of
vinegar, pepper, salt, and some pounded mace; a large
piece of butter rolled in flour, must be added when the
goodness of the shells is obtained : give a boil or two,
and pour iuto the dish strained; strew some crumbs, and
put a paste over all; bake slowly, but only till the paste
be done.
A rema rkably fine Fish Pie.
Boil two pounds of small eels ; having cut the fins
quite close, pick the flesh off, aud throw the bones into
the liquor, with a little mace, pepper, salt, and a slice
of onion; boil it till quite rich, and strain it. Make
forcemeat of the flesh, an anchovy, parsley, lemon-peel,
salt, pepper, and crumbs, and four ounces of butter warm-
ed, and lay it at the bottom of the dish. Take the flesh
of soles, small cod, or dressed turbot, and lay them on
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
140
the forcemeat, having rubbed it with salt and pepper :
pour the gravy over and bake.
Observe to take off the skin and fins, if cod or soles.
Pilchard and Leek Pie.
Clean and skin the white part of some large leeks ;
scald in milk and water, and put them in layers into a
dish, and between the layers, two or three salted pil-
chards which have been soaked for some hours the day
before. Cover the whole with a good plain crust.
When the pie is taken out of the oven, lift up the side
crust with a knife, and empty out all the liquor; then
pour in half a pint of scalded cream.
Beef-steak Pie.
Prepare the steaks as in page 39, and when seasoned
and rolled with fat in each, put them in a dish with puff
paste round the edges; put a little water in the dish, and
cover it with a good crust.
Veal Pie.
Take some of the middle, or scrag, of a small neck ;
season it; and either put to it, or not, a few slices of lean
bacon or ham. If it is wanted of a high relish, add mace,
Cayenne, and nutmeg, to the salt and pepper; and also
forcemeat and eggs; and if you choose, add truffles, mo-
rels, mushrooms, sweetbreads cut into small bits, and
cocks’-combs blanched if liked. Have a rich gravy
ready to pour in after baking. — It will be very good
without any of the latter additions.
A rich Veal Pie.
Cut steaks from a neck or breast of veal ; season them
with pepper, salt, nutmeg, aud a very little clove in pow-
der. Slice two sweetbreads, and season them in the same
manner. Lay a puff paste on the ledge of the dish ; then
put the meat, yolks of hard eggs, the sweetbreads, and
some oysters up to the top of the dish. Lay over the
whole some very thin slices of ham, and fill up the dish
with water; cover; and when it is taken out of the oven,
SAVOURY PIES.
141
pour in at the top, through a funnel, a few spoonfuls of
good veal-gravy, and some cream to till up ; hut first
boil it up with a tea-spoonful of Hour. Truffles, &c. if
approved.
Veal ( or Chicken ) and Parsley Pie.
Cut some slices from the leg or neck of veal ; if the
leg, from about the knuckle. Season them with salt ;
scald some parsley that is picked from the stems, and
squeeze it dry ; cut it a little, and lay it at the bottom
of the dish ; then put the meat, and so on, in layers.
Fill the dish with new milk, but not so high as to touch
the crust. Cover it ; and when baked, pour out a little
of the milk, and put in half a pint of good scalded cream.
Chicken may be cut up skinned, and made in the same
way.
Veal- Olive Pie.
Make the olives as directed in page 51 ; put them
round and round the dish, making the middle highest.
Fill it up almost with water, and cover it. Add gravy,
cream, and flour.
Ccdfs-head Pie.
Stew a knuckle of veal till fit for eating, with two
onions, a few isinglass shavings, a bunch of herbs, a blade
of mace, and a few pepper-corns, in three pints of water.
Keep the broth for the pie. Take off a bit of the meat
for the balls, and let the other be eaten, but simmer the
bones in the broth till it is very good. Half-boil the
head, and cut it into square bits ; put a layer of ham at
the bottom ; then some head, first fat, then lean, with
balls and hard eggs cut in half, and so on till the dish be
full : but be particularly careful not to place the pieces
close, or the pie will be too solid, and there will be no
space for the jelly. The meat must be first pretty well
seasoned with pepper and salt, and a scrape or two of
nutmeg. Put a little water and a little gravy into the
dish, and cover it with a tolerably thick crust; bake it
DOMESTIC COOKEUY.
142
in a slow oven, and, when done, pour it into as much
gravy as it can possibly hold, and do not cut it till per-
fectly cold; in doing which observe to use a very sharp
knife, and first cut out a large bit, going down to the
bottom of the dish; and when done thus, thinner slices
can be cut ; the different colours, and the clear jelly, have
a beautiful marbled appearance.
A small pie may be made to eat hot, which with high
seasoning, oysters, mushrooms, truffles, morels, &c. has
a very good appearance.
The cold piewill keep many days. Slices make a
pretty side-dish.
Instead of isinglass, use a calf's-foot, or a cow-heel, if
the jelly is not likely to be stiff enough.
The pickled tongues of former calves’-heads may be
cut in, to vary in the colour, instead of, or besides
ham.
Excellent Pork Pies, to eat cold.
Raise common boiled crust into either a round or oval
form, as you choose; have ready the trimming and small
bits of pork cut off when a hog is killed ; and if these
are not enough, take the meat off a swTeet bone. Beat
it well with a rolling-pin; season with pepper and salt,
and keep the fat and lean separate. Put it in layers,
quite close up to the top; lay on the lid; cut the edge
smooth round, and pinch it ; bake it in a slow soaking
oven, as the meat is very solid. Directions for raising
the crust will be given hereafter. The pork may be put
into a common dish, with a very plain crust ; and be quite
as good. Observe to put no bone or water into pork-
pie ; the outside of the pieces will be hard, unless they
are cut small and pressed close.
Mutton Pie.
Cut steaks from a loin or neck of mutton that has hung ;
beat them, and remove some of the fat. Season with
salt, pepper, and a little onion; put a little water at the
SAVOURY FIKS.
143
bottom of the dish, and a little paste on the edge; then
cover with a moderately thick paste. Or raise small
pies, and breaking each bone in two to shorten it, season,
and cover it over, pinching the edge. When they come
out, pour into each a spoonful of gravy made of a bit of
mutton.
Srpiab Pie.
Cut apples as for other pies, and lay them in rows
with mutton-chops; shred onion, and sprinkle it among
them, and also some sugar.
Lamb Pie.
Make it of the loin, neck, or breast; the breast of
house-lamb is one of the most delicate things that cau be
eaten. It should be very lightly seasoned with pepper
and salt ; the bone taken out, but not the gristles ; and a
small quantity of jelly gravy be put in hot; but the pie
should not be cut till cold. Put two spoonfuls of water
before baking.
Grass lamb makes an excellent pie, and may either be
boned or not, but not to bone it is perhaps the best.
Season with only pepper and salt; put two spoonfuls of
water before baking, and as much gravy when it comes
from the oven.
Nate. — Meat-pies being fat, it is best to let out the
gravy on one side, and put it in again by a funnel, at the
centre, and a little may be added.
Chicken Pie.
Cut up two young fowls; season with white pepper,
salt, a little mace, and nutmeg, all in the finest powder;
likewise a little Cayenne. Put the chicken, slices of ham
or fresh gammon of bacon, force-meat balls, and hard
eggs, by turns, in layers. If it is to be baked in a dish,
put a little water; but none if in a raised crust. By the
time it returns from the oven, have ready a gravy of
knuckle of veal, or a bit of the scrag with some shank-
bones of mutton, seasoned with herbs, onion, mace, and
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
144
-white pepper. If it is to be eaten hot, you may artel
truffles, morels, mushrooms, &c. but not if to be eaten
cold. If it is made in a dish, put as much gravy as will
fill it; hut, in raised crust, the gravy must he nicely
strained, and then put in cold as jelly. To make the
jelly clear, you may give it a boil with the whites of two
eggs, after taking away the meat, and then run it through
a tine lawn sieve.
Rabbits , if young and in flesh, do as well : their legs
should he cut short, and the breast-bones must not go in,
but will help to make the gravy.
Green-goose Pie.
Bone two young green geese, of a good size; but
first take away every plug, and singe them nicely.
Wash them clean ; and season them high with salt, pep-
per, mace, and allspice. Put one inside the other; and
press them as close as you can, drawing the legs inwards.
Put a good deal of butter over them, and bake them
either with or without crust; if the latter, a cover to
the dish must fit close to keep in the steam. It will
keep long.
Duck Pie.
Bone a full-grown young duck and a fowl ; wash them,
and season with pepper and salt, and a small proportion
of mace and allspice in the finest powder. Put the fowl
within the duck, and in the former a calf’s-tongue pic-
kled red, boil very tender and peeled. Press the whole
close ; the skins of the legs should be drawn inwards,
that the body of the fowls may be quite smooth. If ap-
proved, the space between the sides of the crust may be
filled with a fine forcemeat, made according to the se-
cond receipt given for making forcemeat in page 134.
Bake it in a slow oven, either in a raised crust, or pie-
dish with a thick crust, ornamented.
The large pies in Staffordshire are made as above : hut
with a goose outwards, then a turkey, a duck next, then
SAVOURY PIES. 145
a fowl ; and either tongue, small birds, or forcemeat, in
the middle.
Gihlet Pie.
After very nicely cleaning goose or duck giblets, stew
them with a small quantity of water, onion, black pep-
per, and a bunch of sweet herbs, till nearly done. Let
them grow cold; and if not enough to till the dish, lay a
beef, veal, or two or three mutton steaks, at bottom. Put
the liquor of the stew to bake with the above; and
when the pie is baked, pour into it a large tea-cupful of
cream.
Sliced potatoes added to it, eat extremely well.
Pigeon Pie.
Rub the pigeons with pepper and salt, inside and out;
in the latter put a bit of butter, and, if approved, some
parsley chopped with the livers, and a little of the same
seasoning. Lay a beef-steak at the bottom of the dish,
and the birds on it; between every two, a hard egg.
Put a cup of water in the dish ; and if you have any ham
in the house, lay a bit on each pigeon : it is a great im-
provement to the flavour.
Observe, when ham is cut for gravy or pies, to take
the under part rather than the prime.
Season the gizzards, and two joints of the wings, and
put them in the centre of the pie; and over them, in a
hole made in the crust, three feet nicely cleaned, to
shew what pie it is.
Partridge Pie in a dish.
Pick and singe four partridges; cut off the legs at the
knee; season with pepper, salt, chopped parsley, thyme,
and mushrooms. Lay a veal-steak, and a slice of ham,
at the bottom of the dish; put the partridge in, and half
a pint of good broth. Put puff paste on the ledge of the
dish, and cover with the same; brush it over with egg,
and bake an hour.
K
146
DOMESTIC COOXETIY.
Ilare Pie, to eat cold.
Season the hare after it is cut up; and hake it, with
eggs and forcemeat, in a raised crust or dish. When it
is to be served, cut off the lid, and cover it with jelly-
gravy, as in page 121.
A French Pie.
Lay a puff-paste round on the ledge of the dish : and
put in either veal in slices, rabbits or chickens jointed;
with forcemeat-balls, sweetbreads cut in pieces, arti-
choke-bottoms, and a few truffles.
Vegetable Pie.
Scald and blanch some broad beans; cut young
carrots, turnips, artichoke-bottoms, mushrooms, peas,
onions, lettuce, parsley, celery, or any of them you have ;
make the whole into a nice stew, with some good veal-
gravy. Bake a crust over a dish, with a little lining
round the edge, and a cup turned up to keep it from
sinking. When baked, open the lid, and pour in the
stew.
Par shy Pie.
Lay a fowl, or a few bones of the scrag of veal, sea-
soned, into a dish ; scald a colander-full of picked pars-
ley in milk; season it; and add it to the fowl or meat,
with a tea-cupful of any sort of good broth, or weak
gravy. When it is baked, pour into it a quarter of a pint
of cream scalded, with the size of a walnut of butter, and
a bit of flour. Shake it round, to mix with the gravy
already in.
Lettuces, white mustard leaves, or spinach, may be
added to the parsley, and scalded before put in.
Turnip Pie.
Season mutton-chops with salt and pepper, reserving
the ends of the neck-bones to lay over the turnip^ which
must be cut into small dice, and put on the steaks.
Put two or three good spoonfuls of milk in. \ ou
may add sliced onion. Cover with a crust.
SAVOURY PIES.
147
Potatoe Pie.
Skin some potatoes, and cut them into slices: season
them; and also some mutton, heef, pork, or veal. Put
layers of them and of the meat.
An Herb Pie.
Pick two handfuls of parsley from the stems, half the
quantity of spinach, two lettuces, some mustard and
cresses, a few leaves of borage, and white beet-leaves;
wash, and boil them a little; then drain, and press out
the water : cut them small ; mix, and lay them in a dish,
sprinkled with some salt. Mix a batter of Hour, two eggs
well beaten, a pint of cream, and half a pint of milk,
and pour it on the herbs; cover with a good crust, and
bake.
Raised Crust for Meat-pies, or Fowls, 8[C.
Boil water with a little fine lard, and an equal quantity
of fresh dripping, or of butter, but not much of either.
AVhile hot, mix this with as much flour as you will want,
making the paste as stiff as you can to be smooth, which
you will make it hy good kneading and beating it with
the rolling-pin. When quite smooth, put in a lump iuto
a cloth, or under a pan, to soak till near cold.
Those who have not a good hand at raising crust may
do thus : Roll the paste of a proper thickness, and cut
out the top and bottom of the pie, then a long piece for
the sides. Cement the bottom to the sides with egg,
bringing the former rather further out, and pinching
both together : put egg between the edges of the paste,
to make it adhere at the sides. Fill your pie, and put
on the cover, and pinch it and the side crust together.
The same mode of uniting the paste is to be observed
if the sides are pressed into a tin form, in which the
paste must be baked, after it shall be filled and covered;
hut in the latter case, the tin should be buttered, and
carefully taken off when done enough; and as the form
usually makes the sides of a lighter colour than is pro-
]48 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
per, the paste should be put into the oven again for a
quarter of an hour. With a feather, put egg over at
first.
PUDDINGS, &C.
Observations on making Puddings and Pancakes.
The outside of a boiled pudding often tastes disagree-
ably; which arises from the cloth not being nicely wash-
ed, and kept in a dry place. It should be dipped in
boiling water, squeezed dry, and floured when to be
used.
If bread, it should be tied loose: if batter, tight over.
The water should boil quick when the pudding is put
in ; and it should be moved about for a minute, lest the
ingredients should not mix.
Batter-pudding should be strained through a coarse
sieve, when all is mixed. In others the eggs sepa-
rately.
The pans and basins must be always buttered.
A pan of cold water should be ready, and the pudding
dipt in as soon as it comes out of the pot, and then it
will not adhere to the cloth.
Very good puddings may be made without eggs; but
they must have as little milk as will mix, and must boil
three or four hours. A few spoonfuls of fresh small
beer, or one of yeast, will answer instead of eggs.
Or Snore is an excellent substitute for eggs, either in
puddings or pancakes. Two large spoonfuls will supply
the place of one egg, and the article it is used in will be
equally good. This is an useful piece of information,
especially as snow often falls at the season when eggs are
dearest. Fresh small beer, or bottled malt liquors, like-
wise serve instead of eggs. The snow may be taken up
from any clean spot before it is wanted, and will not
lose its virtue, though the sooner it is used the better.
Xote. — The yolks and whites beaten long and sepa-
rately, make the article they are put into much lighter.
I
PUDDINGS.
14!)
Almoml Puddings.
Beat lialf a pound of sweet and a few bitter almonds
with a spoonful of water; then mix four ounces of but-
ter, four eggs, two spoonfuls of cream, warm with the
butter, one of brandy, a little nutmeg, and sugar to taste.
Butter some cups, half fill, and bake the pudding.
Serve with butter, wine, and sugar.
Baked Almond Pudding.
Beat fine four ounces of almonds, four or five bitter
ditto, with a little wine, yolks of six eggs, peel of two
lemons grated, six ounces of butter, near a quart of
cream, and juice of one lemon. When well mixed,
bake it half an hour, with paste round the dish.
Small Almond Puddings.
Pound eight ounces of almonds, and a few bitter, with
a spoonful of water; mix with four ounces of butter
warmed, four yolks and two whites of eggs, sugar to
taste, two spoonfuls of cream, and one of brandy; mix
well, and bake in little cups buttered. Serve with pud-
ding-sauce.
Sago Pudding.
Boil a pint and a half of new milk, with four spoon-
fuls of sago nicely washed and picked, lemon-peel, cin-
namon, and nutmeg; sweeten to taste; then mix four
eggs, put a paste round the dish, and bake slowly.
Bread and Butter Pudding.
Slice bread spread with butter, and lay it in a dish
with currants between each layer ; and sliced citron,
orange, or lemon, if to be very nice. Pour over an un-
boiled custard of milk, two or three eggs, a few pimentos,
and a very little ratafia, two hours at least before it is
to be baked; and lade it over to soak the bread.
A paste round the edge makes all puddings look bet-
ter, but is not necessary.
Orange Pudding.
Grate the rind of a Seville orange; put to it six ounces
DOMESTIC COOKl'.KY.
150
of fresh butter, six or eight ounces of lump sugar pound-
ed : beat them all in a marble mortar, and add as j ou do
it the whole of eight eggs well beaten and strained;
scrape a raw apple, and mix with the rest; put a paste
at the bottom and sides of the dish, and over the orange
mixture put cross bars of paste. Half an hour will bake
it.
Another. — Mix of orange paste two full spoons, with
six eggs, four of sugar, four ounces of butter warm, and
put into a shallow dish with a paste lining. Bake twenty
minutes.
Another. — Rather more than two table-spoonfuls of
the orange paste, mixed with six eggs, four ounces of
sugar, and four ounces of butter, melted, will make a
good-sized pudding, with a paste at the bottom of the disli.
Bake twenty minutes.
An excellent Lemon Pudding.
Beat the yolks of four eggs; add four ounces of white
sugar, the rind of a lemon being rubbed with some lumps
of it to take the essence; then peel, and beat it in a
mortar with the juice of a large lemon, and mix all with
four or five ounces of butter warmed. Put a crust into
a shallow dish, nick the edges, and put the above into it.
'When served, turn the pudding out of the dish.
A very fine Amber Pudding.
Put a pound of butter into a sauce-pan, with three
quarters of a pound of loaf sugar finely powdered; melt
the butter, and mix well with it; then add the yolks of
fifteen eggs well beaten, and as much fresh candied-
orange as will add colour and flavour to it, being first
beaten to a fine paste. Line the dish with paste for
turning out; and when filled with the above, lay a crust
over, as you would a pie u ike in a slow oven.
It is as good cold as hot.
Baked Apple Pudding.
Tare and quarter four large apples; boil them tender,
PUDDINGS.
l.)l
with the l-ind of a lemon, in so little water that, when
done, none may remain; beat them quite fine in a mor-
tar; add the crumb of a small roll, four ounces ol butter
melted, the yolks of five and whites of three eggs, juice
of half a lemon, and sugar to taste; beat all together,
and lay it in a dish with paste to turn out.
Oatmeal Pudding.
Pour a quart of boiling milk over a pint of the best
fine oatmeal : let it soak all night ; next day beat two
eugs, and mix a little salt; butter a basin that will just
hold it; cover it tight with a floured cloth, and boil it
an hour and a half. Eat it with cold butter and salt.
When cold, slice and toast it, and eat it as oatcake
buttered.
Dutch Pudding, or Souster.
Melt one pound of butter in half a pint of milk; mix
it into two pounds of flour, eight eggs, four spoonfuls of
yeast; add one pound of currailts and a quarter of a
pound of sugar beaten and sifted.
This is a very good pudding hot; and equally so as
a cake when cold. If for the latter, caraways may be
used instead of currants. An hour will bake it in a
quick oven.
A Dutch Rice Pudding.
Soak four ounces of rice in warm water half an hour;
drain the latter from it, and throw it into a stew-pan,
with half a pint of milk, half a stick of cinnamon, and
simmer till tender. When cold, add four whole eggs
well beaten, two ounces of butter melted in a tea-cupful
of cream ; and put three ounces of sugar, a quarter of a
nutmeg, and a good piece of lemon-peel.
Put a light puff-paste into a mould or dish, or grated
tops and bottoms, and.,! '-e hi a quick oven.
Light or Ge Ad 'uddings or Puffs.
Melt three ounces of butter in a pint of cream; let it
stand till nearly cold ; then mix two ounces of fine flour,
152 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
and two ounces of sugar, four yolks and two whites of
eggs, au(l a little rose or orange-flower water. Bake in
little cups buttered, half an hour. They should be serv-
ed the moment they are done, and only when going to
be eaten, or they will not be light.
Turn, out of the cups, and serve with white wine and
sugar.
Little Bread Puddings.
Steep the crumb of a penny loaf grated, in about a
pint of warm milk; when soaked, beat six eggs, whites
and yolks, and mix with the bread, and two ounces of
butter warmed, sugar, orange- flower water, a spoonful
of brandy, a little nutmeg, and a tea-cupful of cream.
Beat all well, and bake in tea-cups buttered. If cur-
rants are chosen, a quarter of a pound is sufficient; if
not, they are good without : or you may put orange or
lemon candy. Serve with pudding-sauce.
Puddings in haste.
Shred suet, and put with grated bread, a few cur-
rants, the yolks of four eggs and the whites of two, some
grated lemon-peel, and ginger. Mix; and make into
little balls about the size and shape of an egg, with a
little flour.
Have ready a skillet of boiling water, and throw them
in. Twenty minutes will boil them; but they will rise
to the top when done.
Pudding-sauce.
New College Puddings.
Grate the crumb of a twopenny loaf, shred suet eight
ounces, and mix with eight ounces of currants, one of
citron mixed fine, one of orange, a handful of sugar,
half a nutmeg, three eggs beaten, yolk and white sepa-
rately. Mix, and make into the size and shape of a
goose-egg. Put half a pound of butter into a frying-
pan; and, when melted and quite hot, stew them gently
in it over a stove; turn them two or three times till of
PUDDINGS.
153
a fine light brown. Mix a glass of brandy with the
batter.
Serve with pudding-sauce.
Boiled Bread Pudding.
Grate white bread; pour boiling milk over it, and
cover close. When soaked an hour or two, beat it fine,
and mix with it two or three eggs well beaten.
Put it into a basin that will just hold it; tie a floured
cloth over it, and put it into boiling water. Send it up
with melted butter poured over.
It may be eaten with salt or sugar.
Prunes or French plums, make a fine pudding in-
stead of raisins, either with suet or bread pudding.
Another and richer. — On half a pint of crumbs of
bread pour half a pint of scalding milk; cover for an
hour. Beat up four eggs, and when strained, add to the
bread, with a tea-spoonful of flour, an ounce of butter,
two ounces of sugar, half a pound of currants, an ounce
of almonds beaten, with orange flower water, half an
ounce of orange, ditto lemon, ditto citron. Butter a
basin that will exactly hold it, flour the cloth, and tie
tight over, and boil one hour.
Brou'ii Bread Pudding.
Half a pound of stale brown bread grated, ditto of
currants, ditto of shred suet, sugar and nutmeg; mix
with four eggs, a spoonful of brandy, and two spoonfuls
of cream; boil in a cloth or basin that exactly holds it
three or four hours.
Nelson Puddings.
Put into a Dutch oven six small cakes called Nelson-
balls, or rice-cakes made in small tea-cups. When
quite hot, pour over them boiling melted butter, white
wine, and sugar; and serve.
Eve's Pudding.
Grate three quarters of a pound of bread ; mix it with
the same quantity of shred suet, the same of apples,
154
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
and also of currants; mix with these the whole of four
eggs, and the rind of half a lemon shred fine. Put it
into a shape; boil three hours; and serve with pudding-
sauce, the juice of half a lemon, and a little nutmeg.
Quaking Pudding.
Scald a quart of cream ; when almost cold, put to it
four eggs well beaten, a spoonful and a half of Hour,
some nutmegs and sugar ; tie it close in a buttered cloth ;
boil it an hour; and turn it out with care, lest it should
crack. Melted butter, a little wine, and sugar.
Duke of Cumberland's Pudding.
Mix six ounces of grated bread, the same quantity of
currants well cleaned and picked, the same of beef-suet
finely sln'ed, the same of chopped apples, and also of
lump sugar, six eggs, half a nutmeg, a pinch of salt,
the rind of a lemon minced as fine as possible; and
citron, orange, and lemon, a large spoonful of each cut
thin. Mix thoroughly, and put into a basin; cover very
close with floured cloths, and boil three hours. Serve
it with pudding-sauce, and the juice of half a lemon,
boiled together.
Transparent Pudding.
Beat eight eggs very well; put them into a stew-pan,
with half a pound of sugar pounded fine, the same quan-
tity of butter, and some nutmeg grated. Set it on the
fire, and keep stirring it till it thickens. Then set it
into a basin to cool; put a rich puff paste round the edge
of the dish; pour in your pudding, and bake it in a mode-
rate oven. It will cut light and clear. You may add
candied orange and citron, if you like.
Batter Pudding.
Rub three spoonfuls of fine flour extremely smooth by
degrees into a pint of milk : simmer till it thickens, stir
in two ounces of butter; set it to cool; then add the
Volks of three eggs : flour a cloth that lias been wet, or
butter a basin, and put the batter into it; tie it tight, and
PUDDINGS.
J 55
plunge it into boiling water, the bottom upwards. Boil
it an hour and a half, and serve with plain butter. It
approved, a little ginger, nutmeg, and lemon-peel may
be added. Serve with sweet sauce.
Batter Pudding with Meat.
Make a batter with flour, milk, aud eggs; pour a
little into the bottom of a pudding-dish; then put sea-
soned meat of any kind into it, and a little shred onion ;
pour the remainder of the batter over, and bake in a
slow oven.
Some like a loin of mutton baked in batter, being
first cleared of most of the fat.
Rice small Puddings.
Wash two large spoonfuls of rice, and simmer it with
half a pint of milk till thick, then put the size of an egg
of butter, and near half a pint of thick cream, and give
it one boil. When cold, mix four yolks and two whites
of eggs well beaten, sugar and nutmeg to taste; and add
grated lemon, and a little cinnamon.
Butter little cups, and fill three parts full, putting at
bottom some orange or citron. Bake three quarters of
an hour in a slowish oven. Serve the moment before
to be eaten, with sweet sauce in the dish, or a boat.
Plain Rice Pudding.
Wash and pick some rice; throw among it some pi-
mento finely pounded, but not much; tie the rice in a
cloth, and leave plenty of room for it to swell. Boil it
in a quantity of water for an hour or two. When done,
eat it with butter and sugar, or milk. Put lemon-peel
if you please.
It is very good without spice, and eaten with salt and
butter.
A rich Rice Pudding.
Boil half a pound of rice in water, with a little bit of
salt, till quite tender ; drain it dry; mix it with the
yolks and whites of four eggs, a quarter of a pint of
150‘
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
cream, with two ounces of fresh butter melted in the
latter, four ounces of beef-suet or marrow, or veal-suet
taken from a lillet of veal, finely shred, three quarters
of a pound of currants, two spoonfuls of brandy, one
of peach-water, or ratafia, nutmeg, and grated lemon-
peel. When well mixed, put a paste round the edge,
and fill the dish. Slices of candied orange, lemon, and
citron if approved. Bake in a moderate oven.
Rice Pudding with Fruit.
Swell the rice with a very little milk over the fire;
then mix fruit of any kind with it (currants, gooseberries
scalded, pared and quartered apples, raisins, or black
currants;) with one egg into the rice, to hind it; boil it
well, and serve with sugar.
Baked Rice Pudding.
Swell rice as above : then add some more milk, an
egg, sugar, allspice, and lemon-peel. Bake in a deep
dish.
Another , for the. Family.— Put into a very deep pan
half a pound of rice washed and picked; two ounces of
butter, four ounces of sugar, a few allspice pounded,
and two quarts of milk. Less butter will do, or some
suet. Bake in a slow oven.
A George Pudding.
Boil very tender a handful of whole rice in a small
quantity of milk, with a large piece of lemon-peel. Let
it drain; then mix with it a dozen of good sized apples,
boiled to pulp as dry as possible ; add a glass of white
wine, the yolks of five eggs, two ounces of orange and
citron cut thin; make it pretty sweet. Line a mold or
basin with a very good paste; beat the five whites of the
eggs to a very strong froth, and mix with the other in-
gredients; fill the mold, and bake it of a fine brown
colour. Serve it with the bottom upward with the fol-
lowing sauce : two glasses of wine, a spoonful of sugar,
the yolks of two eggs, and a bit of butter as large as a
PUDDINGS. 157
■walnut; simmer without boiling, and pour to and from
the sauce-pan, till of a proper thickness ; and put in the
dish.
A n excellent plain Potatoe Pudding.
Take eight ounces of boiled potatoes, two ounces of
butter, the yolks and whites of two eggs, a quarter of
a pint of cream, one spoonful of white wine, a morsel of
salt, the juice and rind of a lemon; beat all to froth;
sugar to taste. A crust or not, as you like. Bake it.
If wanted richer, put three ounces more butter, sweet-
meats and almonds, and another egg.
Potatoe Pudding with Meat.
Boil them till fit to mash ; rub through a colander,
and make into a thick batter with milk and two eggs.
Lay some seasoned steaks in a dish, then some batter;
and over the last layer pour the remainder of the batter.
Bake a line brown.
Steak or Kidney Pudding.
If kidney, split and soak it, and season that or the
meat. Make a paste of suet, Hour and milk ; 1 oil it,
and line a basin with some; put the kidney or steaks in,
cover with paste, and pinch round the edge. Cover
with a cloth, and boil a considerable time.
Beef-steak Pudding.
Prepare some fine steaks as in page 40; roll them with
fat between ; and if you approve shred onion, add a
very little. Lay a paste of suet in a basin, and, put in
the rollers of steaks; cover the basin with a paste, and
pinch the edges to keep the gravy in. Cover with a
cloth tied close ; and let the pudding boil slowly, but
for a length of time.
Baked Beef-tea Pudding.
Make a batter of milk, two eggs and flour, or, which
is much better, potatoes boiled and mashed through a
colander ; lay a little of it at the bottom of the dish ;
then put in the steaks prepared as above, and very well
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
15ft
seasoned; pour the remainder of the hatter over them,
and bake it.
Mutton Pudding.
Season with salt, pepper, and a bit of onion; lay one
layer of steaks at the bottom of the dish ; and pour a
batter of potatoes boiled and pressed through a colan-
der, and mixed with milk and an egg, over them ; then
putting the rest of the steaks and batter, bake it.
Batter with flour, instead of potatoes, eats well, but
requires more egg, and is not so good.
Another. — Cut slices off a leg that has been under-
done, and put them into a basin lined with a tine suet-
crust. Season with pepper, salt, and finely-shred onion
or shalot.
Suet Pudding.
Shred a pound of suet; mix with a pound and a quar-
ter of flour, two eggs beaten separately, a little salt, and
as little milk as will make it. Boil four hours. It eats
well next day, cut in slices and broiled.
The outward fat of loins or necks of mutton finely
shred, makes a more delicate pudding than suet.
Vccd-Suet Pudding.
Cut the crumb of a threepenny loaf into slices; boil
and sweeten two quarts of new milk, and pour over it.
When soaked, pour out a little of the milk ; and mix
with six eggs well beaten, and half a nutmeg. Lay the
slices of bread into a dish with layers of currants and
veal-suet shred, a pound of each. Butter the dish well,
and bake ; or you may boil it in a basin, if you pre-
fer it.
Hunter's Pudding.
Mix a pound of suet, ditto flour, ditto currants, ditto
raisins stoned and a little cut, the rind of half a lemon
shred as fine as possible, six Jamaica peppers in fine
powder, four eggs, a glass of brandy, a little salt, and
as little milk as will make it of a proper consistence;
PUDDINGS.
] .5.0
boil it in a floured cloth, or a melon-mould, eight or
nine hours. Serve with sweet sauce. Add sometimes
a spoonful of peach-water for change of flavour.
This pudding will keep, after it is boiled, six months,
if kept tied up in the same cloth, and hung up, folded
in a sheet of cap-paper to preserve it from dust, being
lirst cold. When to be used, it must boil a full hour.
Common Plum Pudding.
The same proportions of flour and suet, and half the
quantity of fruit, with spice, lemon, a glass of wine or
not, and one egg and milk, will make an excellent pud-
ding, if long boiled.
Custard Pudding.
Mix by degrees a pint of good milk with a large
spoonful of flour, the yolks of five eggs, some orange-
flower water, and a little pounded cinnamon. Butter
a basin that will exactly hold it, pour the batter in, and
tie a floured cloth over. Put in boiling-water over the
fire, and turn it about a few minutes to prevent the egg
going to one side. Half an hour will boil it.
Put currant-jelly on it, and serve with sweet sauce.
Macaroni Pudding.
Simmer an ounce or two of the pipe-sort, in a pint of
milk, and a bit of lemon and cinnamon, till tender;
put it into a dish, with milk, two or three eggs but
only one white, sugar, nutmeg, a spoonful of peach-
water, and half a glass of raisin-wine. Bake with a
paste round the edges.
A layer of orange-marmalade, or raspberry jam, in
a macaroni pudding, for change, is a great improvement;
in which case omit the almond-water, or ratafia, which
you would otherwise flavour it with.
Millet Pudding.
Wash three spoonfuls of the seed; put it into the dish
with a crust round the edges; pour over it as much new
milk as will nearly fill the dish, two ounces of butter
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
1U0
warmed with it, sugar, shred lemon, and a little scrape
of ginger and nutmeg. As you put it in the oven, stir
in two eggs beaten, and a spoonful of shred suet.
Carrot Pudding.
Boil a large carrot tender; then bruise it in a marble
mortar, and mix with it a spoonful of biscuit-powder,
or three or four little sweet biscuits without seeds, four
yolks and two whites of eggs, a pint of cream either raw
or scalded, a little ratafia, a large spoonful of orange or
rose-water, a quarter of a nutmeg, and two ounces of
sugar. Bake it in a shallow dish lined with paste; and
turn it out to serve, with a little sugar dusted over.
An excellent Apricot Pudding.
Halve twelve large apricots, give them a scald till
they are soft; meantime pour on the grated crumbs of
a penny loaf, a pint of boiling cream; when half cold,
four ounces of sugar, the yolks of four beaten qggs, and
a glass of white wine. Pound the apricots in a mortar,
with some or all of the kernels; mix then the fruit and
other ingredients together; put a paste round a dish, and
bake the pudding half an hour.
Baked Gooseberry Pudding.
Stew gooseberries in a jar over a hot hearth, or in a
sauce-pan of water till they will pulp. Take a pint of
the juice pressed through a coarse sieve, and beat it with
three yolks and whites of eggs beaten and strained, one
ounce and a half of butter; sweeten it well, and put a
crust round the dish. A few crumbs of roll should he
mixed with the above to give a little consistence, or lour
ounces of Naples biscuits.
A Green-bean Pudding.
Boil and blanch old beans, beat them in a mortar,
with very little pepper and sal,t, some cream, and the
yolk of an egg. A little spinach juice will give it a finer
colour, but it is as good without. Boil it in a basin that
PUDDINGS. 161
will just hold it, an hour : and pour parsley and butter
over.
Serve bacon to eat with it.
Slid ford Pudding.
Mix three quarters of a pound of currants or raisins,
one pound of suet, one pound of Hour, six eggs, a little
good milk, some lemon-peel, a little salt. Boil it in a
melon-shape six hours.
Brandy Pudding.
Line a mould with jar-raisins stoned, or dried cher-
ries, then with thin slices of French roll, next to which
put ratifias, or macaroons ; then the fruit, rolls, and
cakes in succession, until the mould be full; sprinkling
in at times two glasses of brandy. Beat four eggs,
yolks and whites; put to a pint of milk or cream, lightly
sweetened, half a nutmeg, and the rind of half a lemon
finely grated. Let the liquid sink into the solid part;
then flour a cloth, tie it tight over, and boil one hour;
keep the mould the right side up. Serve with pudding-
sauce.
Bidtermillc Pudding.
Warm three quarts of new milk; turn it with a quart
of buttermilk ; drain the curd through a sieve ; when
dry, pound it in a marble mortar, with near half a
pound of sugar, a lemon boiled tender, the crumb of a
roll grated, a nutmeg grated, six bitter almonds, four
ounces of warm butter, a tea-cupful of good cream, the
yolks of five and whites of three eggs, a glass of sweet
wine, and ditto of brand)'.
When well incorporated, bake in small cups or bowls
well buttered ; if the bottom be not brown, use a sala-
mander ; but serve as quick as possible, and with pud-
ding-sauce.
Curd Puddings, or Puffs.
Turn two quarts of milk to curd, press the whey
L
DOMESTIC COOICERY.
162
from it, rub through a sieve, and mix lour ounces of
butter, the crumb of a penny loaf, two spoonfuls of
cream, aud half a nutmeg, a small quantity of sugar,
and two spoonfuls of white wine. Butter little cups, of
small pattv-pans, and till them three parts. Orange-
flower water is an improvement. Bake them with care.
Serve with sweet sauce in a boat.
Boiled Curd Pudding.
Rub the curd of two gallons of milk when drained
through a sieve. Mix it with six eggs, a little cream,
two spoonfuls of orange-flower water, half a nutmeg,
flour and crumbs of bread each three spooufuls, currants
and raisins half a pound of each. Boil an hour in a
thick well-floured cloth.
Pippin Pudding.
Coddle six pippins in vine-leaves covered with water,
very gently, that the inside be done without breaking
the skins. When soft, skin, and with a tea-spoon take
the pulp from the core. Press it through a colander;
add two spoonfuls of orange- flower water, three eggs
beaten, a glass of raisin-wine, a pint of scalded cream,
sugar and nutmeg to taste. Lay a thin puff paste at the
bottom and sides of the dish : shred very thin lemon-
peel as fine as possible, and put it into the dish ; like-
wise lemon, orange, and citron, in small slices, but not
so thin as to dissolve in the baking.
Yorkshire Pudding.
Mix five spoonfuls of flour, with a quart of milk, and
three eggs well beaten. Butter the pan. When brown:
by baking under the meat, turn the other side upwards,
and brown that. It should be made in a square pan,
and cut into pieces to come to table. Set it over a
chafing-dish at first, and stir it some minutes.
A quick made Pudding.
Flour and suet half a pound each, four eggs, a quar-
ter of a pint of new milk, a little mace and nutmeg, a
PUDDINGS, &c. Ifi3
quarter of a pound of raisins, ditto of currants ; mi\
well, and boil three quarters of an hour with the cover
of the pot on, or it will require longer.
Russian Seed, or ground Rice Pudding.
Boil a large spoonful heaped, of either, in a pint of
new milk, with lemon- peel and cinnamon. When cold,
add sugar, nutmeg, and two eggs well beaten. Bake
with a crust round the dish.
A Welch Pudding.
Let half a pound of fine butter melt gently, beat with
it the yolks of eight, and whites of four eggs, mix in six
ounces of loaf sugar, and the rind of a lemon grated.
Put a paste into a dish for turning out, and pour the
above in, and nicely bake it.
Oxford Dumplings.
Of grated bread two ounces, currants and shred suet
four ounces each, two large spoonfuls of Hour, a great
deal of grated lemon-peel, a bit of sugar, and a little
pimento in fine powder. Mix with two eggs and a little
milk into five dumplings, and fry of a fine yellow brown.
Made with flour instead of bread, but half the quantity,
they are excellent.
Serve with sweet sauce.
Suet Dumplings.
Make as pudding ( page 158;) and drop into boil-
ing water, or into the boiling of beef : or you may boil
them in a cloth.
Apple, Currant, or Damson Dumplings, or Pudding.
Make as above, and line a basin with the paste toler-
ably thin ; fill with the fruit, and cover it ; tie a cloth
over tight, and boil till the fruit shall be done enough.
Yeast, or Suffolk Dumplings.
Make a very light dough with yeast, as for bread, but
with milk instead of water, and put salt. Let it rise an
hour before the fire.
Twenty minutes before you are to serve, have ready
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
164
a largo stewpan of boiling water; make tlie dough into
balls, the size of a middling apple; throw them in, and
boil twenty minutes. If you doubt when done enough,
stick a clean fork into one, and if it come out clear, it
is done.
The way to eat them is to tear them apart on the top
with two forks, for they become heavy by their own
steam. Eat immediately with meat, or sugar and but-
ter, or salt.
A Charlotte.
Cut as many very thin slices of white bread as will
cover the bottom and line the sides of a baking-dish,
but first rub it thick with butter. Put apples, in thin
slices, into the dish, in layers, till full, strewing sugar
between, and bits of butter. In the mean time, soak
as many thin slices of bread as will cover the whole,
in warm milk, over which lay a plate, and a weight to
keep the bread close on the apple. Bake slowly three
hours. To a middling-sized dish use half a pound of
butter in the whole.
Common Pancakes.
Make a light batter of eggs, flour, and milk. Fry in
a small pan, in hot dripping or lard. Salt, or nutmeg,
and ginger, may be added.
Sugar and lemon should be served to eat with them.
Or, when eggs are scarce, make the batter with flour,
and small beer, ginger, &c. ; or clean snow, with flour,
and a very little milk, will serve as well as egg.
Fine Pancakes, fried without Butter or Lard.
Beat six fresh eggs extremely well ; mix, when strain-
ed, with a pint of cream, four ounces of sugar, a glass of
wine, half a nutmeg grated, and as much flour as will
make it almost as thick as ordinary pancake batter, but
not quite. Heat the frying-pan tolerably hot, wipe it
with a clean cloth ; then pour in the batter, to make
thin pancakes.
165
PUDDINGS, &C.
Pancakes of Rice.
Boil half a pound of rice to a jelly in a small quantity
of water; when cold, mix it with a pint of cream, eight
eggs, a bit of salt and nutmeg : stir in eight ounces of
butter just warmed, and add as much flour as will make
the hatter thick enough. Fry in as little lard or drip-
ping as possible.
Irish Pancakes.
Beat eight yolks and four whites of eggs, strain them
into a pint of cream, put a grated nutmeg, and sugar to
your taste; set three ounces of fresh butter on the fire,
stir it, and as it warms pour it to the cream, which
should be warm when the eggs are put to it : then mix
smooth almost half a pint of flour. Fry the pancakes
very thin ; the first with a bit of butter, but not the others.
Serve several, on one another.
New-England Pancakes.
Mix a pint of cream, live spoonfuls of fine flour, seven
yolks and four whites of eggs, and a very little salt; fry
them very thin in fresh butter, and between each strew
sugar and cinnamon. Send up six or eight at once.
Fritters.
Make them of any of the batters directed for pan-
cakes, by dropping a small quantity into the pan : or
make the plainer sort, and put pared apple sliced and
cored into the batter, and fry some of it with each slice.
Currants, or sliced lemon as thin as paper, make an
agreeable change. — Fritters for company should be
served on a folded napkin in the dish. Any sort of
sweetmeat, or ripe fruit, may be made into fritters.
Spajiish Fritters.
Cut the crumb of a French roll into lengths, as thick
as your finger, in what shape you will. Soak in some
cream, nutmeg, sugar, pounded cinnamon, and an egg.
When well soaked, fry of a nice brown; and serve with
butter, wine, and sugar- sauce.
1GG
DOMESTIC COOKEUY.
Potatoe Fritters.
Boil two large potatoes, Scrape them fine ; heat four
yolks and three whites of eggs, and add to the above
one large spoonful of cream, another of sweet wine, a
squeeze of lemon, and a little nutmeg. Beat this batter
half an hour at least. It will be extremely light. Put
a good quantity of fine lard in a stew-pan, and drop a
spoonful of the batter at a time into it. Fry them; and
serve as a sauce, a glass of white wine, the juice of a
lemon, one desert-spoonful of peach-leaf or almond-
water, and some white sugar warmed together : not to
be served in the dish.
Another way. — Slice potatoes thin, dip them in a fine
batter, and fry. Serve with white sugar, sifted over
them. Lemon-peel, and a spoonful of orange-flower
water, should be added to the batter.
Bookings.
Mix three ounces of buck-wheat flour, with a tea-
cupful of warm milk, and a spoonful of yeast ; let it
rise before the fire about an hour ; then mix four eggs
well beaten, and as much milk as will make the batter
the usual thickness for pancakes, and fry them the same.
PASTRY.
Rich Puff Paste.
Puffs may be made of any sort of fruit, but it should
be prepared first with sugar.
Weigh an equal quantity of butter with as much fine
flour as you judge necessary; mix a little of the former
with the latter, and wet it with as little water as will
make into a stiff paste. Roll it out, and put all tlio
butter over it in slices, turn in the ends, and roll it
thin ; do this twice, and touch it no more than can be
avoided. The butter may be added at twice ; and to
those who are not accustomed to make paste it may be
better to do so.
A quicker oven than for short crust.
pastry.
107
A less rich Paste.
Weigh a pound of flour, and a quarter of a pound of
butter, rub them together, and mix into a paste with a
little water, and an egg well beaten of the former as
little as will suffice, or the paste will be tough. Roll,
and fold it three or four times.
Rub extremely tine in one pound of dried flour, six
ounces of butter, and a spoonful of white sugar ; work
up the Avhole into a stiff paste with as little hot water as
possible.
Crust for Venison Pasty.
To a quarter of a peck of fine flour use two pounds
and a half of butter, and four eggs; mix into paste with
warm water, and work it smooth and to a good consis-
tence. Put a paste round the inside, but not to the
bottom of the dish, and let the cover bo pretty thick,
to bear the long continuance in the oven.
Rica Paste for Sweets.
Boil a quarter of a pound of ground rice in the small-
est quantity of water : strain from it all the moisture
as well as you can ; beat it in a mortar with half an
ounce of butter, and one egg well beaten, and it will
make an excellent paste for tarts, &c.
Rice PasU' for relishing things.
Clean, and put some rice, with an onion and a little
water and milk, or milk only, into a sauce-pan, and
simmer till it swell. Put seasoned chops into a dish,
and cover it with the rice ; by the addition of an egg,
the rice will adhere better.
Rabbits fricasseed, and covered thus, are very good.
Potatoe Paste.
Pound boiled potatoes very fine, and add, while
warm, a sufficiency ot butter to make the mash hold
together, or you may mix it with an egg ; then before
it gets cold, flour the board pretty well to prevent it
from sticking, and roll it to the thickness wanted.
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
108
If it is become quite cold before it be put on the
dish, it will be apt to crack.
Raised Crust for Custards or Fruit.
Put four ounces of butter into a sauce-pan with wa-
ter, and when it boils, pour it into as much flour as you
choose; knead and beat it till smooth; cover it, as at the
top of page 147. Raise it ; and if for custard, put a
paper within to keep out the sides till half done, then
(ill with a cold mixture of milk, egg, sugar, and a little
peach- water, lemon-peel, or nutmeg. By cold is meant
that the egg is not to be warmed, but the milk should
be warmed by itself — not to spoil the crust.
The above butter will make a great deal of raised
crust, which must not be rich, or it will be difficult to
prevent the sides from falling.
Excellent short Crusts.
Make two ounces of white sugar, pounded and sifted,
quite dry; then mix it with a pound of flour well dried;
rub into it three ounces of butter, so fine as not to
be seen — into some cream put the yolks of two eggs,
beaten, and mix the above into a smooth paste; roll it
thin, and bake it in a moderate oven.
Another. — Mix with a pound of fine flour dried, an
ounce of sugar pounded and sifted; then crumble three
ounces of butter in it, till it looks all like flour, and,
with a gill of boiling cream, work it up to a fine paste.
Another, not siveet, hut rich. — Rub six ounces of but-
ter in eight ounces of fine flour; mix it into a stiffish
paste, with as little water as possible ; beat it well, and
roll it thin. This, as well as the former, is proper for
tarts of fresh or preserved fruits. Bake in a moderate
oven.
A very fine Crust for Orange-cheesecalces, or Sweetmeats,
when to be particularly nice.
Dry a pound of the finest flour, mix it with three
ounces of refined sugar ; then work half a pound of
PASTRY.
169
butter with your hand till it come to froth ; put the
Hour into it by degrees, and work into it, well beaten
and strained, the yolks of three, and whites of two eggs.
If too limber, put some flour and sugar to make it fit
to roll. Line your pattypans, and fill. A little above
fifteen minutes will bake them. Against they come out,
have ready some refined sugar beat up with the white
of an egg, as thick as you can ; ice them all over, set
them in the oven to harden, and serve cold. Use fresh
butter.
Salt butter will make a very fine flaky crust ; but if
for mince-pies, or any sweet things, should be washed.
Observations on Pastry.
An adept in pastry never leaves any part of it adher-
ing to the board, or dish used in making. It is best
when rolled on marble, or a very large slate. In very
hot weather, the butter should be put into cold water
to make it as firm as possible; and if made early in the
morning, and preserved from the air until it is to be
baked, the cook will find it much better. A good hand
at pastry will use much less butter, and produce lighter
crust than others. Salt butter, if very good, and well
washed, makes a fine flaky crust.
Remark on using preserved Fruit in Pastry.
Preserved fruits should not be baked long; those that
have been done with their full proportion of sugar, re-
quire no baking ; the crust should be baked in a tin
shape, and the fruit be afterwards added ; or it may be
put into a small dish, or tart-pans, and the covers be
baked on a tin cut out according to your taste.
Apple Pie.
Pare and core the fruit, having wiped the outside ;
which, with the cores, boil with a little water till it tastes
well; strain, and put a little sugar, and a bit of bruised
cinnamon, and simmer again. In the mean time place
tho apples in a dish, a paste being put round the edge;
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
170
when one layer is in, sprinkle half the sugar, and slu ed
lemon-peel, and squeeze some juice, or a glass of cycler
if the apples have lost their spirit; put in the rest of the
apples, sugar, and the liquor that you have boiled.
Cover with paste. Y ou may add some butter when cut,
if eaten hot ; or put quince-marmalade, orange-paste,
or cloves, to flavour.
Hot Apple Pie. — Make with the fruit, sugar, and a
clove, and put a bit of butter in when cut open.
Cherry Pie
Should have a mixture of other fruit; currants or rasp-
berries, or both.
Currant Pie
With or without raspberries.
Mince Pie.
Of scraped beef free from skin and strings, weigh 21b.,
41b. of suet picked and chopped, then add 61b. of cur-
rants nicely cleaned and perfectly dry, 31b. of chopped
apples, the peel and juice of two lemons, a pint of sweet
wine, a nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, ditto
mace, ditto pimento, in finest powder; press the whole
into a deep pan when well mixed, and keep it covered
in a dry cool place.
Half the quantity is enough, unless for a very large
family.
Have citron, orange, and lemon-peel ready, and put
some of each in the pies when made.
Mince Pies without A feat.
Of the best apples six pounds, pared, cored, and min-
ced; of fresh suet, and raisins stoned, each three pounds,
likewise minced : to these add of mace and cinnamon a
quarter of an ounce to each, and eight cloves, in finest
powder, three pounds of the finest powder sugar, three
quarters of an ounce of salt, the rinds of four and juice
of two lemons, half a pint of port, the same of brandy.
Mix well, and put into a deep pan.
pastry. 171
Ilnve ready washed and dried four pounds of currants,
and add as you make the pies, with candied fruit.
Lemon Mince Pies.
Squeeze a large lemon, boil the outside till tender
enough to heat to a mash, add to it three large apples
chopped, and four ounces of suet, half a pound of cur-
rants, four ounces of sugar ; put the juice, of the lemon,
and candied fruit, as for other pies. Make a short
crust, and fill the pattypans as usual.
Egg Mince Pies.
Boil six eggs hard, shred them small ; shred double
the quantity of suet : then put currants washed and
picked, one pound, or more if the eggs were large ;
the peel of one lemon shred very fine, and the juice,
six spoonfuls of sweet wine, mace, nutmeg, sugar, a
very little salt : orange, lemon, and citron, candied.
Make a light paste for them.
Currant and Raspberry.
For a tart, line the dish, put sugar and fruit, lay bais
across, and bake.
Light Paste for Tarts and Cheesecakes.
Beat the white of an egg to a strong froth; then mix
it with as much water as will make three quarters ot a
pound of fine flour into a very stiff paste; roll it very
thin, then lay the third part of half a pound of butter
upon it in little bits; dredge it with some flour left out
at first and roll it up tight. Roll it out again, and put
the same proportion of butter; and so proceed till all be
worked up.
Jceing for Tarts.
Beat the yolk of an egg and some melted butter well
together, wash the tarts with a feather, and sift sugar
over as you put them in the oven. Or beat white of
egg, wash the paste, and sift white sugar.
Pippin Tarts.
Tare thin two Seville or China oranges, boil the peel
172 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
tender, and shred it fine; pare and core twenty apples,
put them in a stew-pan, and as little water as possible;
when half done, add half a pound of sugar, the orange-
peel and juice; boil till pretty thick. When cold, put
it in a shallow dish, or pattypans lined with paste, to
turn out, and be eaten cold.
Prune Tart.
Give prunes a scald, take out the stones and break
them; put the kernels into a little cranberry juice, with
the prunes and sugar; simmer; and when cold, make a
tart of the sweetmeat.
Orange Tart.
Squeeze, pulp, and boil two Seville oranges tender,
weigh them, and double of sugar : beat both together to
a paste, and then add the juice and pulp of the fruit, and
the size of a walnut of fresh butter, and beat all together.
Choose a very shallow dish, line it with a light puff-
crust, and lay the paste of orange in it. You may ice
it.
Codlin Tart.
Scald the fruit as will be directed under that article;
when ready take off the thin skin, and lay them whole
in a dish, put a Utile of the water that the apples were
boiled in at the bottom, strew them over with lump
sugar or fine Lisbon; when cold, put a paste round the
edges and over.
You may wet it with white of egg, and strew sugar
over, which looks well: or cut the lid in quarters, with-
out touching the paste on the edge of the dish; and
either put the broad end downwards, and make the point
stand up or remove the lid altogether. Pour a good cus-
tard over it when cold; sift sugar over.
Or line the bottom of a shallow dish with paste, lay
the apples in it, sweeten, and lay little twists of paste
over in bars.
pastry.
173
Rhubarb Tart.
Cut the stalks in lengths of four or five inches, and
take off the thin skin. If you have a hot hearth, lay
them in a dish, and put over a thin syrup ot sugar and
water, cover with another dish, and let it simmer very
slowly an hour — or do them in a block-tin sauce-pan.
When cold, make into a tart, as codlin. When ten-
der, the baking the crust will be sufficient.
Raspberry Tart with Cream.
Roll out some thin puff paste, and lay it in a patty-
pan of what size you choose; put in raspberries; sttew
over them fine sugar; cover with a thin lid, and then
bake. Cut it open, and have ready the following mix-
ture warm ; half a pint of cream, the yolks of two or
three eggs well beaten, and a little sugar ; and when this
is added to the tart, return it to the oven for five or six
minutes.
Orange Tart.
Line a tart- pan with thin puff- paste : put into it orange
marmalade that is made with apple-jelly : lay bars ot
paste, or a croquant cover over, and bake in a moderate
oven.
Fried Patties.
Mince a bit of cold veal, and six oysters, mix with a
few crumbs of bread, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a very
small bit of lemon peel — add the liquor of the oysters ;
warm all in a tosser, but don’t boil; let it go cold; have
ready a good puff-paste, roll thin, and cut it in round oi
square bits; put some of the above between two of them,
twist the edges to keep in the gravy, and fry them ot a
fine brown.
This is a very good thing; and baked, is a fashionable
dish.
Wash all patties over with egg before baking.
Oyster Patties.
Put a fine puff-paste into small patty-pans, and cover
174 DOMESTIC COOK ERT.
with paste, with a bit of bread in eacli ; and against they
are baked have ready the following to (ill with, taking
out the beard. Take oil' the beards of the oysters, cut
the other parts in small bits, put them in a small tosser,
with a grate of nutmeg, the least white pepper, and salt,
a morsel of lemon-peel, cut so small that you can scarcely
see it, a little cream, and a little of the oyster-liquor.
Simmer for a few minutes before you fill.
Observe to put a bit of crust into all patties, to keep
them hollow while baking.
Oyster Patties, or Small Pie.
As you open the oysters separate them from the liquor,
which strain ; parboil them, after taking off the beards.
Parboil sweetbreads, and cutting them in slices, lay them
and the oysters in layers, season very lightly with salt,
pepper and mace. Then put half a tea-cup of liquor,
and the same of gravy. Bake in a slow oven ; and be-
fore you serve, put a tea-cup of cream, a little more
oyster-liquor, and a cup of white gravy all warmed, but
not boiled. If for patties, the oysters should be cut
in small dice, gently stewed and seasoned as above, and
put into the paste when ready for table.
Lobster Patties.
Make with the same seasoning, a little cream, and the
smallest bit of butter.
Podovies, or Beef-Patties.
Shred under-done dressed beef with a little fat, season
with pepper, salt, and a little shalot or onion. Make a
plain paste, roll it thin, and cut it in shape like an apple
puff, fill it with the mince, pinch the edges, and fry
them of a nice brown. The paste should he made with
a small quantity of butter, egg, and milk.
Veal Patties.
Mince some veal that is not quite done with a little
parsley, lemon-peel, a scrape of nutmeg, and a bit of
salt; add -a little cream and gravy just to moisten the
PASTRY.
175
meat; and if you have any ham, scrape a little, and add
to it. Don’t warm it till the patties are baked.
Turkey Patties.
Mince some of the white part, and with grated lemon,
nutmeg, salt, a very little white pepper, cream and a
very little bit of butter warmed, fill the patties.
Street Patties.
Chop the meat of a boiled calf’s foot, of which you
use the liquor for jelly, two apples, one ounce of orange
and lemon-peel candied, and some fresh peel and juice;
mix with them half a nutmeg grated, the yolk of an egg,
a spoonful of brandy, and four ounces of currants washed
and dried.
Cake in small pattypans.
Patties resembling Mince Pies.
Chop the kidney and fat of cold veal, apple, orange,
and lemon-peel candied, and fresh currants, a little wine,
two or three cloves, a little brandy, and a bit of sugar.
Bake as before.
Apple Puffs.
Pare the fruit, and either stew them in a stone jar on
a hot hearth, or bake them. When cold, mix the pulp
of the apple with sugar and lemon-peel shred fine, taking
as little of the apple-juice as you can. Bake them in
thin paste, in a quick oven ; a quarter of an hour will do
them, if small. Orange or quince-marmalade, is a great
improvement. Cinnamon pounded, or orange flower-
water, in change.
Lemon Puffs.
Beat and sift a pound and a quarter of double-refined
sugar; grate the rind of two large lemons, and mix it
well with the sugar; then beat the whites of three new-
laid eggs a great while, add them to the sugar and peel,
and beat it for an hour; make it up in any shape you
please, and bake it on paper put on tin-plates, in a mo-
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
176
derate oven. Don’t remove the paper till cold. Oiling
the paper will make it come off with ease.
Cheese Puffs.
Strain cheese-curd from the whey, and heat half a pint
basin of it line in a mortar, with a spoonful and a half of
flour, three eggs, but only one white, a spoonful of
orange-flower water, a quarter of a nutmeg, and sugar to
make it pretty sweet. Lay a little of this parte, in small
very round cakes, on a tin plate. If the oven is hot, a
quarter of an hour will bake them. Serve with pud-
ding sauce.
Excellent light Puffs.
Mix two spoonfuls of flour, a little grated lemon-peel,
some nutmeg, half a spoonful of brandy, a little loaf-
sugar, and one egg ; then fry it enough, but not brown ;
beat it in a mortar with five eggs, whites and yolks; put
a quantity of lard in a frying-pan, and when quite hot,
drop a desert-spoonfnl of batter at a time : turn as they
brown. Serve them immediately, with sweet sauce.
To prepare Venison for Pasty.
Take the bones out, then season and beat the meat,
lay it in a stone jar in large pieces, pour upon it some
plain drawn-beef gravy, but not a strong one, lay the
bones on the top, then set the jar in a water-bath, that
is a sauce-pan of water over the fire, simmer three or
four hours — then leave it in a cold place till next day.
Remove the cake of fat, lay the meat in handsome pieces
on the dish; if not sufficiently seasoned, add more pep-
per, salt, or pimento, as necessary. Put some of the
gravy, and keep the remainder for the time of serving.
If the venison be thus prepared, it will not require so
much time to bake, or such a very thick crust as is
usual, and by which the under part is seldom done
through.
Venison Pasty.
A .shoulder-bone makes a good pasty, but it must be
PASTRY.
177
beaten and seasoned, and tlie want of fat supplied by that
of a tine well-hung loin of mutton, steeped twenty-four
hours in equal parts of rape, vinegar, and port.
The shoulder being sinewy, it will be ol advantage to
rub it well with sugar for two or three days, and when
to be used wipe it perfectly clean from it, and the wine.
A mistake used to prevail, that venison could not be
baked too much; but, as above directed, three or four
hours in a slow oven will be sufficient to make it tender,
and the flavour will be preserved. Either in shoulder
or side, the meat must be cut in pieces, and lauWith
fat between, that it maybe proportioned to each person,
without breaking up the pasty to find it. Lay some
pepper and salt at the bottom of the dish, and some
butter; then the meat nicely packed, that it may be
sufficiently done, but not lie hollow to harden at the
edges.
The venison bones should be boiled with some fine old
mutton — of this gravy put half a pint cold into the dish;
then lay butter on the venison, and cover as well as line
the sides with a thick crust, but don’t put one under the
meat. Keep the remainder of the gravy till the pasty
comes from the oven ; put it into the middle by a funnel,
quite hot, and shake the dish to mix well. It should be
seasoned with pepper and salt.
To make a Pasty of Beef or Mutton, to eat as well as
Venison.
Bone a small rump or a piece of sirloin of beef, or a
fat loin of mutton, after hanging several days. Beat it
very well with a rolling-pin ; then rub ten pounds of
meat with four ounces of sugar, and pour over it a glass
of port, and the same of vinegar. Let it lie five days and
nights; wash and wipe the meat very dry, and season it
very high with pepper, Jamaica pepper, nutmeg and salt.
Lav it in your dish, and to ten pounds put one pound or
M
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
178
near of butter, spreading it over the meat. Put a crust
round the edges, and cover with a thick one, or it will be
overdone before the meat be soaked — it must be done
in a slow oven.
Set the bones in a pan in the oven, with no more wa-
ter than will cover them, and one glass of port, a little
pepper and salt, that you may have a little rich gravy to
add to the past)' when drawn.
Note. Sugar gives a greater shortness, and better
flavour to meats than salt, too great a quantity of which
hardens — and it is quite as great a preservative.
Potatoe Pasty.
Boil, peel, and mash potatoes as fine as possible; mix
them with salt, pepper, and a good bit of butter. Make
a paste; roll it out thin like a large puff, and put in the
potatoe; fold over one half, pinching the edges. Bake
in a moderate oven.
Cheap and excellent Custards.
Boil three pints of new milk, with a bit of lemon-
peel, a bit of cinnamon, two or three bay- leaves, and
sweeten it. Meanwhile rub down smooth a large spoon-
ful of rice flour into a cup of cold milk, and mix with
it two yolks of eggs well beaten. Take a basin of the
boiling milk and mix with the cold, and then pour that
to the boiling; stirring it one way till it begins to thick-
en, and is just going to boil up; then pour it into a pan,
stir it some time, add a large spoonful of peach-water,
two tea-spoonfuls of brandy, or a little ratafia.
Marbles boiled in custard, or any thing likely to burn,
will, by shaking them in the sauce-pan, prevent it from
catching.
Richer Custard.
Boil a pint of milk with lemon-peel and cinnamon;
mix a piut of cream, and the yolks of five eggs well
beaten ; when the milk tastes of the seasoning, sweeten
**■ enough for the whole; pour it into the cream, stirring
PA ST 11 Y.
179
it welt ; then give the custard a simmer till of a proper
thickness. Don’t let it boil ; stir the whole time one
way ; season as above. If to be extremely rich, put no
milk, but a quart of cream to the eggs.
Baked Custard.
Boil one pint of cream, half a pint of milk; with t
mace, cinnamon, and lemon-peel, a little of each.
When cold, mix the yolks of three eggs ; sweeten and
make your cups or paste nearly full. Bake them ten
minutes.
Lemon Custards.
Beat the yolks of eight eggs till they are as white as
milk ; then put to them a pint of boiling water, the rinds
of two lemons grated, and the juice sweetened to your
taste. Stir it on the fire till thick enough ; then add
a large glass of rich wine, and half a glass of brandy ;
give the whole one scald, and put it in cups to be eaten
cold.
Almond Custard.
Blanch and beat four ounces of almonds fine with a
spoonful of water; beat a pint of cream with two spoon-
fuls of rose-water, and put them to the yolks of four eggs,
and as much sugar as will make it pretty sweet; then
add the almonds; stir it all over a slow fire till it is of
a proper thickness; but don't boil. Pour it into cups.
Cheesecakes.
Strain the whey from the curd of two quarts of milk;
when rather dry, crumble it through a coarse sieve, and
mix with six ounces of fresh butter, one ounce of pound-
ed blanched almonds, a little orange-flower water, half
a glass of raisin wine, a grated biscuit, four ounces of
currants, some nutmeg, and cinnamon, in fine powder,
and beat all the above with three eggs, and half a pint
of cream, till quite light; then fill the pattypans three
parts full.
180
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
A plainer sort.
Turn three quarts of milk to curd, break it and drain
the whey : when dry, break it in a pan, with two ounces
of butter, till perfectly smooth ; put to it a pint and a half
of thin cream, or good milk, and add sugar, cinnamon,
nutmeg, and three ounces of currants.
Cheesecakes another way.
Mix the curd of three quarts of milk, a pound of cur-
rants, twelve ounces of Lisbon sugar, a quarter of an
ounce of cinnamon, ditto of nutmeg, the peel of one
lemon chopped so fine that it becomes a paste, the yolks
of eight and whites of six eggs, a pint of scalded cream,
and a glass of brandy. Put a light thin puff-paste in the
pattypans, and three parts fill them.
Lemon Cheesecakes.
Mix four ounces of sifted lump-sugar, and four ounces
of butter, and gently melt it; then add the yolks of two
and the white of one egg, the rind of three lemons shred
fine, and the juice of one and a half, one Savoy biscuit,
some blanched almonds pounded, three 'spoonfuls of
brandy; mix well, and put in paste made as follows :
eight ounces of flour, six ounces of butter; two-thirds of
which mix with the flour first; then wet it with six
spoonfuls of water, and roll the remainder in.
Another way. — Boil two large lemons, or three small
ones, and after squeezing, pound them well together in
a mortar, with four ounces of loaf-sugar, the yolks of six
eggs, and eight ounces of fresh butter. Fill the patty-
pans half full.
Orange cheesecakes are done the same way, only you
must boil the peel in two or three waters to take out
the bitterness; or make them of orange marmalade well
beaten in a mortar.
Orange Cheesecakes.
When you have blanched half a pound of almonds,
beat them very fine, with orange-flower water, and halt
PASTRY.
a pound of fine sugar beaten and sifted, a pound of but-
ter that has been melted carefully without oiling, and
which must be nearly cold before you use it; then beat
the yolks of ten, and whites of four eggs ; pound two
candied oranges, and a fresh one with the bitterness
boiled out, in a mortar, till as tender as marmalade,
without any lumps ; and beat the whole together, and
put into pattypans.
Potcitoe Cheesecakes.
Boil six ounces of potatoes, and four ounces of lemon-
peel ; beat the latter in a marble mortar, with four
ounces of sugar ; then add the potatoes, beaten, and
four ounces of butter melted in a little cream. A\ hen
well mixed, let it stand to grow cold. Put crust in
pattypans, rather more than half fill them. Bake in a
quick oven half an hour ; sifting some double refined
sugar on them when going to the oven.
This quantity will make a dozen.
Almond Cheesecakes.
Blanch and pound four ounces of almonds, and a few
bitter, with a spoonful of water; then add four ounces
of sugar pounded, a spoonful of cream, and the whites of
two eggs well beaten, mix all as quick as possible ; put
into very small pattypans, and bake in a pretty warm
oven under twenty minutes.
Another way. — Blanch and pound four ounces of al-
monds, with a little orange-flower, or rose-water ; then
stir in the yolks of six, and whites of three eggs, well
beaten, five ounces of butter warmed, the peel of a le-
mon grated, and a little of the juice; sweeten with fine
Lisbon sugar. When well mixed, bake in a delicate
paste, in small pans.
Another way.— Press the whey from as much curd as
will make two dozen small ones ; then put it on the back
of a sieve, and with half an ounce of butter rub it
through with the back of a spoon; put to it six yolks,
182
DOMESTIC COOK CRT.
and three whites of eggs, and a few bitter almonds
pounded with as much sugar as will make the curd pro-
perly sweet : mix with it the rind of a lemon grated,
and a glass of brandy. Put a puff-paste into the pans,
and ten minutes will bake them.
PART VII.
VEGETABLES.
Observations on dressing Vegetables.
Vegetables should be carefully cleaned from insects
and nicely washed. Boil them in plenty of water, and
drain them the moment they are done enough. If
overboiled, they lose their beauty and crispness. Bad
cooks sometimes dress them with meat, which is wrong,
except carrots with boiling beef.
To boil Vegetables green.
Be sure the water boils when you put them in.
Make them boil very fast. Don’t cover, but watch
them ; and if the water has not slackened, you may be
sure they are done when they begin to sink. Then take
them out immediately, or the colour will change. Hard
water, especially if chalybeate, spoils the colour of such
vegetables as should be green.
To boil them green in hard water, put a tea-spoonful
of salt of wormwood into the water when it boils, before
the vegetables are put in.
To keep green Peas.
Shell, and put them into a kettle of water when it
boils ; give them two or three walms only, and pour
them into a colander. When the water drains off, turn
VEGETABLES*
183
them out on a dresser covered with cloth, and pour
them on another cloth to dry perfectly. Then bottle
them in wide-mouthed bottles ; leaving only room to
pour clarilied mutton-suet' upon them an inch thick,
and for the cork. Rosin it down ; and keep it in a cel-
lar or in the earth, as will be directed for gooseberries
under the head of keeping for Winter. — When they are
to be used, boil them till tender, with a bit of butter, a
spoonful of sugar, and a bit of mint.
Another way, as practised in the Emperor of Russia's
kitchen. — Shell, scald, and dry them as above : put
them on tins or earthen dishes in a cool oven once or
twice to harden. Keep them in paper bags hung up in
the kitchen. When they are to be used, let them lie an
hour in water; then set them on with cold water and a
bit of butter, and boil them till ready. Put a sprig of
dried mint to boil with them.
Boiled Peas
Should not be overdone, nor in much water. Chop
some scalded mint to garnish them, and stir a piece of
butter in with them.
To stew green Peas.
Put a quart of peas, a lettuce and an onion both
sliced, a bit of butter, pepper, salt, and no more water
than hangs round the lettuce from washing. Stew
them two hours very gently. When to be served, beat
up an egg, and stir it into them : or a bit of flour aud
butter.
Some think a tea-spoonful of white powdered sugar
is an improvement. Gravy may be added, but then
there will be less of the flavour of the peas. Chop a
bit of mint, and stew in them.
To stew old Peas.
Steep them in water all night, if not fine boilers ;
otherwise only half an hour : put them into water
enough just to cover them, with a good bit of butter,
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
o! a piece o( bed or pork. Stew tliem very gently till
the peas are soft, and the meat is tender; if it is not salt
meat, add salt and a little pepper. Serve them round
the meat.
To dress A rtichokes.
Irim a few of the outside leaves off, and cut the stalk
even. If young, half an hour will boil them. They are
better for being gathered two or three days first. Serve
them with melted butter in as many small cups as there
are artichokes, to help with each.
Artichoke Bottoms.
If dried, they must be soaked, then stewed in weak
gravy, and served with or without forcemeat in each.
Or they may be boiled in milk, and served with cream-
sauce; or added to ragouts, French pies, &c.
Jerusalem Artichokes
Must he taken up the moment they are done, or they
will be too soft.
They may he boiled plain, or served with white fri-
cassee-sauce.
To stew Cucumbers.
Slice them thick; or halve and divide them into two
lengths; strew some salt and pepper, and sliced onions:
add a little broth, or a bit of butter. Simmer very
slowly; and before serving, if no butter was in before,
put some, and a little flour; or if there was butter in,
only a little flour, unless it wants richness.
Another war/. — Slice the onions, and cut the cucum-
bers large; flour them, and fry them in some butter,
then pour on some good broth or gravy, and stew them
till done enough. Skim off the fat.
To stew Onions.
Peel six large onions; fry gently of a fine brown, but
do not blacken them; then put them into a small stew-
pan, with a little weak gravy, pepper, and salt ; cover
VEGETABLES. 185
and stew two hours gently. They should he lightly
iloured at first.
Roast Onions
Should he done with all the skins on. They eat well
alone, with only salt and cold butter; or with roast po-
tatoes; or with beet- roots.
To ste'w Celery.
Wash six heads, and strip off their outer leaves ; either
halve, or leave them whole, according to their size: cut
into lengths of four inches. Put them into a stew-pan
with a cup of broth, or weak white gravy : stew till ten-
der; then add two spoonfuls of cream, and a little flour
and butter seasoned with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and
simmer all together.
To boil Cauliflowers.
Choose those that are close and white. Cut off the
green leaves, and look carefully that there are no cater-
pillars about the stalk. Soak an hour in cold water :
then boil them in milk and water ; and take care to
skim the sauce-pan, that not the least foulness may fall
on the flower. It must be served very white, and rather
crimp.
Cauliflower in white Sauce.
Half-boil it ; then cut it into handsome pieces, and
lay them in a stew-pan with a little broth, a bit of mace,
a little salt, and a dust of white pepper; simmer half an
hour; then put a little cream, butter, and flour : shake,
and simmer a few minutes, an d serve.
To dress Cauliflower and Parmesan.
Boil a cauliflower; drain it on a sieve, and cut the
stalk so that the flower will stand upright about two
inches above the dish. Put it into a stew-pan, with a
little white sauce ; let it stew till done enough, which
will be but a few minutes; then dish it with the sauce
round, and put Parmesan grated over it. Brown it with
a salamander.
186
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
To dress Brocoli.
Cut the heads with short stalks, and pare the tough
skin off them. 1 ie the small shoots into bunches, and
boil them a shorter time than the heads. Some salt
must be put into the water. Serve with or without
toast.
Spinach
Requires great care in washing and picking it. When
that is done, throw it into a sauce-pan that will just
hold it, sprinkle it with a little salt, and cover close.
The pan must be set on the fire, and well shaken.
When done, beat the spinach well with a small bit of
butter : it must come to table pretty dry ; and looks
well if pressed into a tin mould in the form of a large
leaf, which is sold at the tin shops. A spoonful of cream
is an improvement.
To dress Beans.
Boil tender, with a bunch of parsley, which must he
chopped to serve with them. Bacon or pickled pork
must be served to eat with, but not boiled with them.
Fricasseed Windsor Beans.
When grown large, but not mealy, boil, blanch, and
lay them in a white sauce ready-hot : just heat them
through in it, and serve. If any are not of a fine green,
do not use them for this dish.
French Beans.
String, and cut them into four or eight ; the last
looks best. Lay them in salt and water; and when the
sauce-pan boils, put them in with some salt. As soon
as they are done, serve them immediately, to preserve
the green colour.
Or when half-done, drain the water off, and put
them into two spoonfuls of broth strained; and add a
little cream, butter, and flour, to finish doing them.
To stew red Cabbage.
Slice a small, or half a large, red cabbage; wash and
VEGETABLES.
187
put it iuto a sauce-pan with pepper, salt, no water but
what hangs about it, and a piece of butter. Stew till
quite tender; and when going to serve, add two or three
spoonfuls of vinegar, and give one boil over the fire.
Serve it for cold meat, or with sausages on it.
Another way. — Shred the cabbage ; wash it ; and put
it over a slow fire, with slices of onion, pepper, and salt,
and a little plain gravy. When quite tender, and a
few minutes before serving, add a bit of butter rubbed
with flour, and two or three spoonfuls of vinegar, and
boil up.
Another. — Cut the cabbage very thin; and put it into
the stew-pan with a small slice of ham, and half an ounce
of butter, at the bottom, half a pint of broth, and a gill
of vinegar. Let it stew covered three hours. When it
is very tender, add a little more broth, salt, pepper, and
a table-spoonful of pounded sugar. Mix these well, and
boil them all till the liquor is wasted ; then put it into
the dish, and lay fried sausdges on it.
Mushrooms.
The cook should be perfectly acquainted with the dif-
ferent sort of things called by this name by ignorant
people, as the death of many persons has been occa-
sioned by carelessly using the poisonous kinds.
The eatable mushrooms first appear very small, and
of a round form, on a little stalk. They grow very fast,
and the upper part and stalk are white. As the size in-
creases, the under part gradually opens, and shews a
fringy fur of a very fine salmon-colour, which continues
more or less till the mushroom has gained some size,
and then turns to a dark brown. These marks should
be attended to, and likewise whether the skin can be
easily parted from the edges and middle. Those that
have a white or yellow fur should be carefully avoided,
though many of them have the same smell (but not so
strong) as the right sort.
183
DOJfESTIC COOKKRY.
To stew Mushrooms.
The large buttons are best, and the small flaps while
the fur is still red. Rub the large buttons with salt and
a hit of flannel; cut out the fur, and take off the skin,
from the others. Sprinkle them with salt, and put into
a stew-pan with some pepper-corns : simmer slowly till
done ; then put a small bit of butter and flour, and two
spoonfuls of cream; give them one boil, and serve with
sippets of bread.
To stew Sorrel for Fricandeau and roast Meat.
Wash the sorrel; and put it into a silver vessel, or
stone jar, with no more wrater than hangs to the leaves.
Simmer it as slow as you can ; and wheu done enough,
put a bit of butter, and beat it well.
French Salad.
Chop three anchovies, a shalot, and some parsley,
small; put them into a bowl with two table-spoonfuls of
vinegar, one of oil, a little mustard, and salt. When
well mixed, add by degrees some cold roast or boiled
meat in very thin slices; put in a few at a time, not ex-
ceeding two or three inches long. Shake them in the
seasoning, and then put more : cover the bowl close,
and let the salad be prepared three hours before it is to
be eaten. Garnish with parsley, and a few slices of
the fat.
Lobster Salad.
Make a salad; and put some of the red part of the
lobster to it, cut. This forms a pretty contrast to the
white and green of the vegetables. Don't put much
oil, as shell-fish absorb the sharpness of vinegar. Serve
in a dish, not a bowl.
To boil Potatoes.
Set them on a fire, without paring them, in cold wa-
ter; let them half boil; then throw some salt in, and a
pint of cold water, and let them boil again till almost
done. Pour off the water; and put a clean cloth over
VEGETABLES. W
them, and then the sauce-pan cover, and set them by
the fire to steam till ready. Many persons prefer
steamers. Potatoes look best 'when the skin is peeled,
not cut.
Do new potatoes the same ; but be careful they are
taken off in time, or they will be watery. Before dress-
ing, rub off the skin with a cloth and salt, and then wash.
To broil Potatoes.
Parboil, then slice and broil them. Or parboil, and
then set. them whole on the gridiron over a very slow
fire ; and when thoroughly done, send them up with
their skins on. This last way is practised in many Irish
families.
To roast Potatoes.
Half-boil, take off the thin peel, and roast them of a
beautiful brown.
To fry Potatoes.
Take the skin off raw potatoes, sliee and fry them,
either in butter or thin batter.
To mash Potatoes.
Boil the potatoes, peel them, and break them to
paste ; then to two pounds of them, add a quarter ol
a pint of milk, a little salt, and two ounces of butter,
and stir it all well over the fire. Either serve them in
this manner, or place them on the dish in a form, and
then brown the top with a salamander, or in scallops.
Carrots
Require a good deal of boiling when young, wipe off
the skin after they are boiled; when old, boil them with
the salt meat, and scrape them first.
To stew Carrots.
Half-boil, then nicely scrape, and slice them into a
stew-pan. Put to them half a tea-cupful of any weak
broth, some pepper and salt, and half a cupful of
cream: simmer them till they are very tender, but not
broken. Before serving, rub a very little flour, with
190 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
a bit of butter, and warm up with them. If approved,
chopped parsley may be added ten minutes before served.
To mash Parsnips.
Boil them tender; scrape, then mash them into a
stew-pan with a little cream, a good piece of butter, and
pepper and salt.
Fricassee of Parsnips.
Boil in milk till they are soft. Then cut them
lengthways into bits twro or three inches long; and sim-
mer in a white sauce, made of two spoonfuls of broth,
a bit of mace, half a cupful of cream, a bit of butter,
and some flour, pepper, and salt.
To dress Chardoons.
Cut them into pieces of six inches long, and put on a
string : boil till tender, and have ready a piece of but-
ter in a pan ; flour, fry them brown, and serve.
Or tie them into bundles ; and serve as asparagus
boiled, on toast, and pour butter over.
Or boil, and then beat them up in fricassee-sauce.
Or boil in salt and water, dry, then dip them into
butter, and fry them. Serve with melted butter.
Or stew them; boil as directed in the last page : toss
them up with a brown or white gravy; add Cayenne,
ketchup, and salt. Thicken with a bit of butter and
flour.
Beet -roots
Make a very pleasant addition to winter-salad ; of
which they may agreeably form a full half, instead of
being only used to ornament it. This root is cooling,
and very wholesome.
It is extremely good boiled, and sliced with a small
quantity of onion; or stewed with whole onions, large
or small, as follows :
Boil the beet tender with the skin on; slice it into a
stew-pan with a little broth, and a spoonful of vinegar :
simmer till the gravy is tinged with the colour; then put
VEGETABLES.
191
it into a small dish, and make a round of the bottom-
onions, first boiled till tender; take off the skin just be-
fore serving, and mind they are quite hot, and clear.
Or roast three large onions, and peel off the outer
skins till they look clear; and serve the beet- root stew-
ed, round them.
If beet- root is in the least broken before dressed, it
parts with its colour, and looks ill.
Frying Herbs, as dressed in Staffordshire.
Clean and drain a good quantity of spinach-leaves,
two large handfuls of parsley, and a handful of green
onions. Chop the parsley and onions, and sprinkle
them among the spinach. Set them all on to stew with
some salt, and a bit of butter the size of a walnut : shake
the pan when it begins to grow warm, and let it be
closely covered over a slow stove till done enough. It
is served with slices of broiled calves’-liver, small rashers
of bacon, and eggs fried ; the latter ou the herbs, the
other in a separate dish.
Sea Cale
Must be boiled very white, and served ou toast like as-
paragus.
Laver.
This is a plant that grows on the rocks near the sea
in the West of England, and is sent in pots prepared for
eating.
Set some of it on a dish over a lamp, with a bit of
butter, and the squeeze of a Seville orange. Stir it till
hot. It is eaten with roast meat, and is a great sweet-
ener of the blood. It is seldom liked at first, but peo-
ple become extremely fond of it by habit.
To preserve several Vegetables to eat in the Winter.
For French beans, pick them young, aud throw into a
little wooden keg a layer of them three inches deep;
then sprinkle them with salt, put another layer of beans,
aud do the same as high as you think proper, alternately
192
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
■with salt, but not too much of this. Lav over them a
plate, or cover of wood, that will go into the keg, and
put a heavy stone on it. A pickle will rise from the
beans and salt. If they are too salt, the soaking and
boiling will not be sufficient to make them pleasant to
the taste. When they are to be eaten, cut, soak, an<J
boil them as if fresh.
Carrots, Parsnips, and Beet-roots, should be kept in
layers of dry sand for winter-use; and neither they nor
potatoes should be cleared from the earth. Potatoes
should be carefully kept from frost.
Store-onions keep best hung up in a dry cold room.
Parsley should be cut close to the stalks; and dried
in a warm room, or on tins in a very cool oven : it
preserves its flavour and colour, and is very useful in
winter.
Artichoke-bottoms, slowly dried, should be kept in
paper bags; and Truffles, Morels, Lemon-peel, &c. in a
dry place, ticketed.
Small close Cabbages, laid on a stone floor before the
frost sets in, will blaucli and be very fine, after many
weeks keeping.
PICKLES.
Rules to be observed with Pickles.
Keep them closely covered ; and have a wooden
spoon, with holes, tied to each jar; all metal being im-
proper. They should be well kept from the air; the
large jars be seldom opened; and small ones, for the dif-
ferent pickles in use, should be kept for common supply,
into which what is not eaten may be returned, and the
top closely covered.
Acids dissolve the lead that is in the tinning of sauce-
pans. When necessary to boil vinegar, do it in a stone
jar, on the hot hearth. Pickles should never be put
into glazed jars, as salt and vinegar penetrate the glaze,
which is poisonous.
PICKLES. I!)3
Lemon Pickle.
Wipe six lemons, cut each into eight pieces ; put on
them a pound of salt, six large cloves of garlick, two
ounces of horse-radish sliced thin, likewise of cloves,
mace, nutmeg, and Cayenne, a quarter of an ounce
each, and two ounces of flour of mustard ; to these put
two quarts of vinegar. Boil a quarter of an hour in a
well-tinned sauce pan ; or, which is better, do it in a
strong jar, in a kettle of boiling water: or set the jar
on the hot hearth till done. Set the jar by, and stir it
daily for six weeks ; keep the jar close covered. Put
it into small bottles.
Indian Pickle.
Lay a pound of white ginger in water one night; then
scrape, slice, and lay it in salt in a pan till the other in-
gredients shall be ready.
Peel, slice, and salt a pound of garlick three days,
then put it in the sun to dry. Salt and dry long pep-
per in the same way.
Prepare various sorts of vegetables thus :
Quarter small white cabbages, salt three days,
squeeze, and set them in the sun to dry.
Cauliflowers cut in their branches; take off the green
from radishes ; cut celery in three-inch lengths ; ditto
young French beans whole, likewise the shoots of elder,
which will look like bamboo. Apples and cucumbers,
choose of the least seedy sort ; cut them in slices, or quar-
ters, if not too large. All must be salted, drained, and
dried in the sun, except the latter; over which you must
pour boiling vinegar, and in twelve hours drain them,
but no salt must be used.
Put the spice, garlick, a quarter of a pound of mus-
tard-seed, and as much vinegar as you think enough for
the quantity you are to pickle, into a large stone jar,
and one ounce of turmeric, to be ready against the ve-
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
1.94
getables shall he dried. When they are ready, observe
the following directions : Put some of them into a two-
quart stone jar, and pour over them one quart of boil-
ing vinegar. Next day take out those vegetables; and
when drained, put them into a large stone jar, and boil-
ing the vinegar, pour it over some more of the vege-
tables ; let them lie a night, and do as above. Thus
proceed till you have cleansed each set from the dust
which must inevitably fall on them by being so long in
doing; then, to every gallon of vinegar put two ounces
of flour of mustard, mixing, by degrees, with a little of
it boiling-hot. The whole of the vinegar should have
been previously scalded, but set to be cool before it was
put to the spice. Stop the jar tight.
This pickle will not be ready for a year ; but you
may make a small jar for eating in a fortnight, only by
giving the cauliflower one scald in water, after salting
and drying as above, but without the preparative vine-
gar; then pour the vinegar, that has the spice and gar-
lick, boiling-hot over. If at any time it be found that
the vegetables have not swelled properly, boiling the
pickle, and pouring it over them hot, will plump them.
English Bamboo.
Cut the large young shoots of elder, which put out
in the middle of May, (the middle stalks are most ten-
der;) peel off the outward peel, or skin, and lay them
in salt and water very strong, one night. Dry them
piece by piece in a cloth. Have in readiness a pickle
thus made and boiled : to a quart of vinegar put an
ounce of white pepper, an ounce of sliced ginger, a little
mace and pimento, and pour boiling on the elder-shoots,
in a stone jar; stop close, and set by the fire two hours,
turning the jar often, to keep it scalding hot. If not
green when cold, strain off the liquor, and pour boiling-
hot again ; keep it hot as before. — Or, if you intend to
make ludianr-pickle, the above shoots are a great im-
PICKLES.
195
provement to it; in which case you need only pour boil-
ing vinegar and mustard-seed on them; and keep them
till your jar of pickles shall be ready to receive them.
The cluster of elder-flowers before it opens, makes a
delicious pickle to eat with boiled mutton. It is only
done by pouring boiling vinegar over.
Melo?i Mangoes.
There is a particular sort for this purpose, which the
gardeners know. Cut a square small piece out of one
side, and through that take out the seeds, and mix with
them mustard-seeds and shred garlick ; stuff the melon
as full as the space will allow, and replace the square
piece. Bind it up with a small new pack-thread. Boil
a good quantity of vinegar, to allow for wasting, with
peppers, salt, ginger, and pour boiling hot over the
mangoes four successive days ; the last, put flour of
mustard, and scraped horse-radish, into the vinegar just
as it boils up. Stop close. Observe that there is
plenty of vinegar. All pickles are spoiled if not well
covered. Mangoes should be done soon after they are
gathered. Large cucumbers, called green turley, pre-
pared as mangoes, are excellent, and come sooner into
eating.
Mark, the greater number of times boiling vinegar is
poured over either sort, the sooner it will be ready.
Pickled Lemons.
They should be small, and with thick rinds; rub them
with a piece of flannel ; then slit them half down in four
quarters, but not through to the pulp : fill the slits with
salt hard pressed in, set them upright in a pan for four
or five days, until the salt melts; turn them thrice a day
in their own liquor, until tender; make enough pickle
to cover them, of rape- vinegar, the brine of the lemons,
Jamaica pepper, and ginger; boil and skim it; when
cold, put it to the lemons, with two ounces of mustard-
seed, and two cloves of garlick to six lemons. When
196 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
the lemons are used, the pickle will he useful in fish or
other sauces.
Olives
Are of three kinds, Italian, Spanish, and French, of
different sizes and flavour; each sort should be firm,
though some are most fleshy.
Preserve them from the air.
Pickled Onions.
In the month of September, choose the small white
round onions, take off the brown skin, have ready a very
nice tin stew-pan of boiling water, throw in as man}'
onions as will cover the top; as soon as they look clear
on the outside, take them up as quick as possible with a
slice, and lay them on a clean cloth ; cover them close
with another, and scald some more, and so on. Let
them lie to be cold, then put them in a jar, or glass
wide-mouth bottles, and pour over them the best white
wine vinegar, just hot, but not boiling. When cold,
cover them. Should the outer skin shrivel, peel it oil.
They must look quite clear.
To pickle Cucumbers and Onions sliced.
Cut them in slices, and sprinkle salt over them : next
day drain them for five or six hours; then put them into
a stone jar, pour boiling vinegar over them, and keep
them in a warm place. The slices should be thick.
Repeat the boiling vinegar, and stop them up again in-
stantly; and so on till green; the last time put pepper
and ginger. R.eep it in small stone jars.
To pickle young Cucumbers.
Choose nice young gerkins, spread them on dishes,
salt them and let them lie a week— drain them, and,
putting them in a jar, pour boiling vinegar over them.
Set them near the fire, covered with plenty of vine
leaves ;if they do not become a tolerably good green,
pour the vinegar into another jar, set it over the hot
hearth, and when it boils, pour it over them again, co-
PICKLES.
197
vering with fresh leaves; and thus do till they are of as
good a colour as you wish : but as it is now known that
the very fine green pickles are made so by using brass
or bell-metal vessels, which, when vinegar is put into
them, become highly poisonous, few people like to eat
them.
To pickle Walnuts.
When they will bear a pin to go into them, put a brina
of salt and water boiled, and strong enough to bear an
egg on them, being quite cold first. It must be well
skimmed while boiling. Let them soak six days ; then
change the brine, let them stand six more; then drain
them, and pour over them in the jar a pickle of the best
white wine vinegar, with a good quantity of pepper, pi-
mento, ginger, mace, cloves, mustard-seed, and horse-
radish; all boiled together, but cold. To every hundred
of walnuts put six spoonfuls of mustard-seed, and two
or three heads of garlick or shalot, but the latter is least
strong.
Thus done, they will be good for several years, if
close covered. The air will soften them. They will
not be fit to eat under six months.
The pickle will serve as good ketchup, when the wal-
nuts are used.
Another v>ay. — Put them into a jar, cover them with
the best vinegar cold, let them stand four months; then
pour off the pickle, and boil as much fresh vinegar as
will cover the walnuts, adding to every three quarts of
vinegar one quarter pound of best Durham mustard, a
stick of horse-radish sliced, one half-ounce of black pep-
per, one half-ounce of cloves, one ounce of ginger, one
half-ounce of allspice, and a good handful of salt — pour
the whole, boiling hot, upon the walnuts, and cover them
close; they will be fit for use in three or four months.
You may add two ounces of garlick, or shalot, but not
boiled in the vinegar.
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
193
Of the pickle in which the walnuts stood for the first
four months, you may make excellent ketchup.
An excellent way to pickle Mushrooms, to preserve the
flavour.
Buttons must be rubbed with a bit of flannel and salt;
and from the larger, take out the red inside, for when
they are black they will not do, being too old. Throw a
little salt over, and put them into a stew-pan with some
mace and pepper; as the liquor comes out, shake them
well, and keep them over a gentle lire till all of it be
dried into them again ; then put as much vinegar into
the pan as will cover them, give it one warm, and turn
all into a glass or stone jar. They will keep two years,
and are delicious.
To' pickle Red Cabbage.
Slice it into a colander, and sprinkle each layer with
salt ; let it drain two days, then put it into a jar, and
pour boiling vinegar enough to cover, and put a few
slices of red beet-root. Observe to choose the purple
red cabbage. Those who like the flavour of spice will
boil it with the vinegar. Cauliflower cut in branches,
and thrown in after being salted, will look of a beauti-
ful red.
Mushroom Ketchup.
Take the largest broad mushrooms, break them into
an earthen pan, strew salt over, and stir them now and
then for three days. Then let them stand for twelve,
till there is a thick scum over; strain, and boil the liquor
with Jamaica and black peppers, mace, ginger, a clove
or two, and some mustard-seed. When cold, bottle it,
and tie a bladder over the cork ; in three months boil
it again with some fresh spice, and it will then keep a
twelvemonth.
Mushroom Ketchup, another ivay.
Take a stew-pan full of the large-flap mushrooms,
that are not worm-eaten, and the skins and fringe of
PICKLES.
199
those you have pickled; throw a handful of salt among
them, and set them by a slow tire ; they will produce a
great deal of liquor, which you must strain ; and put to it
four ounces of shalots, two cloves of garlick, a good deal
of pepper, ginger, mace, cloves, and a few bay leaves —
boil and skim very well. When cold, cork close. In
two months boil it up again with a little fresh spice,
and a stick of horse-radish, and it will then keep the
year ; which mushroom ketchup rarely does, if not
boiled a second time.
Walnut Ketchup, of the finest sort.
Boil or simmer a gallon of the expressed juice of wal-
nuts when they are tender, and skim it well; then put
in two pounds of anchovies, bones and liquor, ditto of
shalots, one ounce of cloves, ditto of mace, ditto of pep-
per, and one clove of garlick. Let all simmer till the
shalots sink ; then put the liquor into a pan till cold;
bottle, and divide the spice to each. Cork closely, and
tie a bladder over.
It will keep twenty years, and is not good the first.
Be very careful to express the juice at home; for it is
rarely unadulterated, if bought.
Some people make liquor of the outside shell when
the nut is ripe; but neither the flavour nor colour is
then so fine.
Cockle Ketchup.
Open the cockles, scald them in their own liquor;
add a little water when the liquor settles, if you have
not enough; strain through a cloth, then season with
every savoury spice; and if for brown sauce, add port,
anchovies, and garlick — if for white, omit these, and put
a glass of sherry, lemon-juice and peel, mace, nutmeg,
and white pepper. If for brown, bum a bit of sugar for
colouring.
It is better to have cockles enough than to add water;
and they are cheap.
200
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
To keep Capers.
Add fresh vinegar that has been scalded, and become
cold — and tie them close, to keep out the air, which
make's them soft.
PART VIII.
SWEET DISHES, PRESERVES, SWEET-
MEATS, &c.
*
SWEET DISHES.
Buttered, Rice.
W ash and pick some rice, drain, and put it with
some new milk, enough just to swell it, over the fire;
when tender, pour off the milk, and add a bit of butter,
a little sugar, and pounded cinnamon. Shake it, that
it do not burn, and serve.
Souffle of Rice and Apple.
Blanch Carolina rice, strain it, and set it to boil in
milk, with lemon-peel and a bit of cinnamon. Let it
boil till the rice is dry ; then cool it, and raise a rim
three inches high round the dish; having egged the dish,
where it is put, to make it stick. Then egg the rice all
over. Fill the dish half way up with a marmalade of
apples ; have ready the whites of four eggs beaten to a
fine froth, and put them over the marmalade : then sift
fine sugar over it, and set it in the oven, which should
be warm enough to give it a beautiful colour.
Snow-balls.
Swell rice in milk, strain it off, and having pared and
SWEET DISHES.
201
cored apples, put the rice round them, tying each up in
a cloth. Put a bit of lemon-peel, a clove or cinnamon
in each, and boil them well.
Lent Potatoes.
Beat three or four ounces of almonds, and three or
four bitter, when blanched, putting a little orange-
dower water to prevent oiling; add eight ounces of but-
ter, four eggs well beaten and strained, half a glass of
raisin wine, and sugar to your taste. Beat all well till
quite smooth, and grate-in three Savoy biscuits. Make
balls of the above with a little dour, the size of a ehes-
nut; throw them into a stew-pan of boiling lard, and
boil them of a beautiful yellow brown. Drain them on
a sieve.
Serve sweet sauce in a boat, to eat with them.
A Tansey.
Beat seven eggs, yolks and whites separately ; add a
pint of cream, near the same of spinach-juice, and a
little tansey-juice gained by pounding in a stone mor-
tar, a quarter of a pound of Naples biscuit, sugar to
taste, a glass of white-wine, and some nutmeg. Set all
in a sauce- pan, just to thicken, over the fire; then put
it into a dish, lined with paste, to turn out, and bake it.
Puits d' Amour.
Cut a Rne rich puff paste rolled thin, with tin shapes
made on purpose, one size less than another, in a pyra-
midical form, and lay them so ; then bake in a moderate
oven, that the paste may be done sufficiently, but very
pale. Lay different-coloured sweetmeats on the edges.
A very nice Dish of Macaroni dressed siceet.
Boil two ounces in a pint of milk, with a bit of le-
mon-peel, and a good bit of cinnamon, till the pipes
are swelled to their utmost size without breaking. Lay
them on a custard-dish, and pour a custard over them
hot. Serve cold.
202
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Floating Island.
Mix three half pints of thin cream with a quarter of
a pint of raisin wine, a little lemon-juice, orange-liower
water, and sugar : put into a dish for the middle of the
table, and put on the cream a froth, as will be directed
in page 211, which may be made of raspberry or cur-
rant-jelly.
Another way. — Scald a codlin before it be ripe, or any
sharp apple ; pulp it through a sieve. Beat the whites
of two eggs with sugar, and a spoonful of orange-flower
water; mix in by degrees the pulp, and beat all together
until you have a large quantity of froth; serve it on a
raspberry cream ; or you may colour the froth with beet-
root, raspberry, currant-jelly, and set it on a white
cream, having given it the flavour of lemon, sugar, and
wine, as above; or, put the froth on a custard.
Flummery.
Put three large handfuls of very small white oatmeal
to steep a day and night in cold water; then pour it off
clear, and add as much more water, and let it stand the
same time. Strain it through a fine hair sieve, and boil
it till it be as thick as hasty pudding ; stirring it well
all the time. When first strained, put to it one large
spoonful of white sugar, and two of orange-flower wa-
ter. Pour it into shallow dishes ; and serve to eat
with wine, cyder, milk, or cream and sugar. It is very
good.
Dutch Flummery.
Boil two ounces of isinglass in three half pints of wa-
ter very gently half an hour; add a pint of white wine,
the juice of three, aud the thin rind of one lemon, and
rub a few lumps of sugar on another lemon to obtain
the essence, and with them add as much more sugar
as shall make it sweet enough ; and having beaten the
yolks of seven eggs, give them and the above, when
mixed, one scald; stir all the time, and pour it into a
SWEET DISHES. 203
basin; stir it till half cold; then let it settle, and put it
into a melon shape.
Rice Flummery.
Boil with a pint of new milk, a bit of lemon-peel,
and cinnamon ; mix with a little cold milk as much
rice-lioui as will make the whole of a good consistence,
sweeten, and add a spoonful of peach- water, or a bitter
almond beaten; boil it; observing it don’t burn; pour it
into a shape or pint-basin, taking out the spice. When
cold, turn the flummery into a dish, and serve with
cream, milk, or custard round ; or put a tea-cupful of
cream into half a pint of new milk, a glass of white
wine, half a lemon squeezed, and sugar,
Somersetshire Firmity.
To a quart of ready-boiled wheat, put by degrees two
quarts of new milk, breaking the jelly, and then four
ounces of currants picked clean, and washed; stir them,
and boil till they are done. Beat the yolks of three
eggs, and a little nutmeg, with two or three spoonfuls of
milk; add this to the wheat; stir them together while
over the fire ; then sweeten, and serve cold in a deep
dish. Some persons like it best warm.
Curds and Cream.
Put three or four pints of milk into a pan a little
warm, and then add rennet or gallino. When the curd
is come, lade it with a saucer into an earthen shape per-
forated, of any form you please. Fill it up as the whey
drains oft', without breaking or pressing the curd. If
turned only two hours before wanted, it is very light ;
but those who like it harder, may have it so, by mak-
ing it earlier, and squeezing it. Cream, milk, or a
whip of cream, sugar, wine, and lemon, to be put in
the dish, or into a glass bowl, to serve with the curd.
Another way. — To four quarts of new milk warmed,
put from a pint to a quart of buttermilk strained, ac-
cording to its sourness; keep the pan covered until tho
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
204
curd be of firmness to cut three or four times across with
a saucer, as the whey leaves it; put it into a shape, and
fill up until it he solid enough to take the form. Serve
with cream plain, or mixed with sugar, wine, and lemon.
A Curd Star.
Set a quart of new milk upon the fire with two or
three blades of mace; and when ready to boil, put to it
the yolks and whites of nine eggs well beaten, and as
much salt as will lie upon a small knife’s point. Let it
boil till the whey is clear; then drain it in a thin cloth,
or hair sieve ; season it with sugar, and a little cinna-
mon, rose-water, orange-flower water, or white wine, to
your taste; and put into a star form, or any other. Let
it stand some hours before you turn it into a dish ; then
put round it thick cream or custard.
Blanc mange, or Blamange.
Boil two ounces of isinglass in three half pints of
water half an hour : strain it to a pint and a half of cream ;
sweeten it, and add some peach- water, or a few bitter
almonds; let it boil once up, and put it into what forms
you please. If not to be very stiff, a little less isinglass
will do. Observe to let the blamange settle before you
turn it into the forms, or the blacks will remain at the
bottom of them, and be on the top of the blamange
when taken out of the moulds.
An Excellent Trifle.
Lay macaroons and ratafia-drops over the bottom of
your dish, and pour in as much raisin-wine as they will
suck up; which, when they have done, pour on them
cold rich custard made with more eggs than directed in
the foregoing pages, and some rice-flour. It must stand
two or three inches thick ; on that put a layer of raspberry
jam, and cover the whole with a very high whip, made
the day before, of rich cream, the whites of two well-
beaten eggs, sugar, lemon-peel, and raisin-wine, well
beat with a whisk, kept only to whip syllabubs and
SWEET DISHES. 205
creams. If made the day before used, it has quite a
different taste, and is solid and far better.
Gooseberry or Apple Trifle.
Scald such a quantity of either of these fruits, as,
when pulped through a sieve, will make a thick layer
at the bottom of your dish ; if of apples, mix the rind of
half a lemon grated fine; and to both as much sugar as
will be pleasaut.
Mix half a pint of milk, half a pint of cream, and the
yolk of one egg; give it a scald over the fire, and stir
it all the time; don’t let it boil; add a little sugar only,
and let it grow cold. Lay it over the apples with a
spoon ; and then put on it a whip made the day before,
as for other Trifle.
Chantilly Cake, or Cake Trifle.
Bake a rice cake in a mould. When cold, cut it
round about two inches from the edge with a sharp
knife, taking care not to perforate the bottom. Put in
a thick custard, and some tea-spoonfuls of raspberry jam,
and then put on a high whip.
Gooseberry Fool.
Put the fruit into a stone jar, and some good Lisbon
sugar : set the jar on a stove, or in a sauce- pan of water
over the fire; if the former, a large spoonful of water
should be added to the fruit. When it is done enough
to pulp, press it through a colander; have ready a suf-
ficient quantity of new milk, and a tea-cup of raw
cream, boiled together : or an egg instead of the latter,
and left to be cold; then sweeten it pretty well with fine
Lisbon sugar, and mix the pulp by degrees with it.
Apple Fool.
Stew apples as directed for gooseberries, and then
peel and pulp them. Prepare the milk, &c. and mix
as before.
Orange. Fool.
Mix the juice of three Seville oranges, three eggs
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
206
well beaten, a pint of cream, a little nutmeg and cinna-
mon, and sweeten to your taste. Set the whole over a
glow fire, and stir it till it becomes as thick as good
melted butter, but it must not be boiled ; then pour it
into a dish for eating cold.
A Cream.
Boil half a pint of cream, and half a pint of milk,
with two bay-leaves, a bit of lemon-peel, a few almonds
beaten to paste, with a drop of water, a little sugar,
orange-flower-water, and a tea-spoonful of flour, hav-
ing been rubbed down with a little cold milk, aud
mixed with the above. When cold, put a little lemon-
juice to the cream, and serve it in cups or lemonade-
glasses.
A n excellent Cream.
Whip up three quarters of a pint of very rich cream
to a strong froth, with some finely-scraped lemon-peel,
a squeeze of the juice, half a glass of sweet wine, and
sugar to make it pleasant, but not too sweet ; lay it on a
sieve or in a form, and next day put it on a dish, and
ornament it with very light puff-paste biscuits, made in
shapes the length of a finger, and about two thick,
over which sugar may be strewed, or a light glaze with
isinglass. Or you may use macaroons, to line the edges
of the dish.
Bund Cream.
Boil a pint of cream with a stick of cinnamon, and
some lemon-peel; take it off the fire, and pour it very
slowly into the yolks of four eggs, stirring till half cold;
sweeten, and take out the spice, &c. ; pour it into the
dish; when cold, strew white pounded sugar over, and
brown it with a salamander.
Another way. — Make a rich custard without sugar,
boiling lemon-peel in it. When cold, sift a good deal
of sugar over the whole, and brown the top with a sala-
mander.
SWEET DISHES.
207
Suck Cream.
Boil a pint of raw cream, the yolk of an egg well beat-
en, two or three spoonfuls of white wine, sugar, and
lemon-peel; stir it over a gentle lire till it be as thick
as rich cream, and afterwards till cold; then serve it in
glasses, with long pieces of dry toast.
Brandy Cream.
Boil two dozen of almonds blanched, and pounded
hitter almonds, in a little milk. When cold, add to
it the yolks of five eggs beaten well in a little cream,
sweeten, and put to it two glasses of the best brandy;
and when well mixed, pour to it a quart of thin cream :
set it over the tire, hut don’t let it boil ; stir one way
till it thickens, then pour into cups, or low glasses.
W hen cold it will be ready. A ratafia-drop may be put
in each if you choose it. If you wish it to keep, scald
the cream previously.
Ratafia Cream.
Boil three or four laurel, peach, or nectarine leaves,
in a full pint of cream; strain it; and when cold, add
the yolks of three eggs beaten and strained, sugar, and
a large spoontul of brandy stirred quick into it. Scald
till thick, stirring it all the time.
Another way. — Mix half a quarter of a pint of rata-
fia, the same quantity of mountain wine, the juice of
two or three lemons, a pint of rich cream, and as much
sugar as will make it pleasantly flavoured. Beat it with
a whisk, and put it into glasses. This cream will keep
eight or ten days.
Lemon Cream.
Take a pint of thick cream, and put to it the yolks of
two eggs well beaten, four ounces of fine sugar, and the
thin rind of a lemon; boil it up; then stir it till almost
coid; put the juice of a lemon in a dish or bowl, and
pour the cream upon it, stirring it til! quite cold.
208
domestic cookery.
Yellow Lemon Cream, without Cream..
Pare four lemons very thin into twelve large spoon-
fuls of water, and squeeze the juice on seven ounces o
finely pounded sugar; heat the yolks of nine eggs well:
add the peels and juice beaten together for some time;
then strain it through a flannel into a silver or very nice
block-tin sauce-pan; set it over a gentle fire, and stir
it one way till pretty thick, and scalding hot hut not
boiling, or it will curdle. Pour it into jelly-glasses. A
few lumps of sugar should he rubbed hard on the lemons
before they are pared, or after, as the peel wil le so
thin as not to take all the essence, and the sugar will
attract it, and give a better colour and flavour.
White Lemon Cream.
Is made the same as the above; only put the whites of
the eggs in lieu of the yolks, whisking it extremely well
to froth.
Imperial Cream.
Boil a quart of cream with the thin rind of a lemon,
then stir it till nearly cold ; have ready in a dish or
bowl that you are to serve in, the juice of three lemons
strained with as much sugar as will sweeten the cream ;
which pour into the dish from a large tea-pot, holding
it high, and moving it about to mix with the juice. 1
should be made at least six hours before it be served,
and will be still better if a day.
Almond Cream.
Beat four ounces of sweet almonds, and a few bitter,
in a mortar, with a tea-spoonful of water to prevent
oiling, both having been blanched. Put the paste to a
quart of cream, and add the juice of three lemons
sweetened; beat it up with a wlnsk to a froth, which
take off on the shallow part of a sieve; fill glasses wi 1
some of the liquor and the froth.
Snow Cream.
Put to a quart of cream the whites of three eggs well
SWEET DISHES. 209
beaten, four spoonfuls of sweet wine, sugar to your taste,
and a bit of lemon-peel; whip it to a froth, remove the
peel, and serve in a dish.
Coffee Cream, much admired.
Boil a calf’s foot in water till it wastes to a pint of
jelly, clear of sediment and fat. Make a tea-cup of very
strong coffee ; clear it with a bit of isinglass to be per-
fectly bright; pour it to the jelly, and add a pint of very
good cream, and as much fine Lisbon sugar as is plea-
sant; give one boil-up, and pour into the dish. '
It should jelly, but not be stiff. Observe that your
coffee be fresh.
Chocolate Cream.
Scrape into one quart of thick cream, one ounce of
the best chocolate, and a quarter of a pound of sugar;
boil and mill it ; when quite smooth, take it off, and
leave it to be cold; then add the whites of nine eggs.
TV hisk ; and take up the froth on sieves, as others are
done; and serve the froth in glasses, to rise above some
of the cream.
Cocllin Cream.
Pare and core twenty/good cod] ins ; beat them in a
mortar, with a pint of cream; strain it into a dish; and
put sugar, bread-crumbs, and a glass of wine, to it. Stir
it well.
Excellent Orange Cream.
Boil the rind of a Seville orange very tender; beat it
fine in a mortar; put to it a spoonful of the best brandy,
the juice of a Seville orange, four ounces of loaf susrar,
and the yolks of four eggs ; beat all together for ten
minutes ; then by gentle degrees, pour in a pint of boil-
ing cream; beat till cold; put into custard-cups set into
a deep dish of boiling water, and let them stand till
cold again. Put at the top small strips of orange-paring
cut thin, or preserved chips.
0
210
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Raspberry Cream.
Mash the fruit gently, and let them drain ; then
sprinkle a little sugar over, and that will produce more
juice; then put the juice to some cream, and sweeten
it ; after which, if you choose to lower it with some
milk, it will not curdle; which it would, if put to the
milk before the cream; but it is best made of raspberry-
jelly, instead of jam, when the fresh fruit cannot be
obtained.
Another way. — Boil one ounce of isinglass-shavings
in three pints of cream, and new milk mixed, for fifteen
minutes, or until the former be melted; strain it through
a hair-sieve into a basin ; when cool put about half a pint
of raspberry-juice, or syrup, to the milk and cream ; stir
it till well incorporated ; sweeten, and add a glass of
brandy ; whisk it about till three parts cold ; then put it
into a mould till quite cold. In summer use the fresh
juice; in winter, syrup of raspberries.
Spinach Cream.
Beat the yolks of eight eggs with a wooden spoon or
a whisk ; sweeten them a good deal ; and put to them a
stick of cinnamon, a pint of rich cream, three quarters
of a pint of new milk; stir it well; then add a quarter
of a pint of spinach-juice; set it over a gentle stove, and
stir it one way constantly till it is as thick as a hasty
pudding. Put into a custard-dish some Naples biscuits,
or preserved orange, in long slices, and pour the mix-
ture over them. It is to be eaten cold ; and is a dish
either for supper, or for a second course.
Pistachio Cream.
Blanch four ounces of pistachio nuts; beat them fine
with a little rose-water, and add the paste to a pint of
cream; sweeten; let it just boil, and put it into glasses.
Clouted, Cream.
String four blades of mace on a thread ; put them to a -
gill of new milk, and six spoonfuls of rose water; sim-
SWEET DISHES.
211
mer a few minutes; then by degrees stir this liquor
strained into tlie yolks of two new eggs well beaten.
Stir the whole into a quart of very good cream, and set
it over the fire; stir it till hot, but not boiling hot; pour
it into a deep dish, and let it stand twenty-four hours.
Serve it in a cream dish, to eat with fruits. Many peo-
ple prefer it without any flavour but that of cream ; in
which case use a quart of new milk and the cream, or
do it as the Devonshire scalded cream.
When done enough, a round mark will appear on the
surface of the cream, the size of the bottoms of the pan
it is done in, which in the country they call the ring;
and when that is seen, remove the pan from the fire.
A Froth to set on Cream, Custard, or Trifle, which looks
and eats well.
Sweeten half a pound of the pulp of damsons, or any
other sort of scalded fruit, put to it the whites of four
eggs beaten, and beat the pulp with them until it will
stand as high as you choose ; and being put on the cream,
&c. with a spoon, it will take any form ; it should be
rough, to imitate a rock.
A Carmel Cover for Sweetmeats.
Dissolve eight ounces of double-refined sugar in three
or four spoonfuls of water, and three or four drops of
lemon-juice; then put it into a copper untinned skillet;
when it boils to be thick, dip the handle of a spoon in
it, and put that into a pint-basin of water, squeeze the
sugar from the spoon into it, and so on till you have all
the sugar. Take a bit out of the water, and if it snaps,
and is brittle when cold, it is done enough ; but only
let it be three parts cold, when pour the water from the
sugar, and having a copper form oiled well, run the su-
gar on it, in the manner of a maze, and when cold you
may put it on the dish it is to cover; hut if on trial the
sugar is not brittle, pour off the water, and return it
into the skillet, and boil it again. It should look thick
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
212
like treacle, but of a bright light gold-colour. It is a
most elegant cover.
Calfs Feet Jelly.
Boil two feet in two quarts and a pint of water till
the feet are broken, and the water half wasted; strain
it, and, when cold, take off the fat, and remove th & jelly
from the sediment; then put it into a sauce-pan, with
sugar, raisin wine, lemon-juice to your taste, and some
lemon-peel. When the flavour is rich, put to it the
whites of five eggs well beaten, and their shells broken.
Set the sauce-pan on the fire, but don’t stir the jelly
after it begins to warm. Let it boil twenty minutes
after it rises to a head ; then pour it through a flannel
jelly-bag, first dipping the bag in hot water to prevent
waste, and squeezing it quite dry. Run the jelly
through and through until clear; then put it into
glasses or forms.
The following mode will greatly facilitate the clearing
of jelly : When the mixture has boiled twenty minutes,
throw in a tea-cupful of cold water; let it boil five mi-
nutes longer; then take the sauce-pan off the fire covered
close, and keep it half an hour; after which, it will be
so clear as to need only once running through the bag,
and much waste will be saved.
Observe, feet for all jellies are boiled so long by the
people who sell them, that they are less nutritious ; they
should be only scalded to take off the hair. The liquor
will require greater care in removing the fat ; but the
jelly will be far stronger, and, of course, allow more
water.
Note. — Jelly is equally good made of cow-heels nicely
cleaned ; and as they bear a less price than those of
calves, and make a stronger jelly, this observation may
be useful.
Another sort. — Boil four quarts of water with three
calfs feet, or two cow-heels, that have been only scalded,
SWEET DISHES.
213
till half wasted ; take the jelly from the fat and sedi-
ment ; mix with it the juice of a Seville orange, and
twelve lemons, the peels of three ditto, the whites and
shells of twelve eggs, brown sugar to taste, near a pint
of raisin wine, one ounce of coriander seeds, a quarter
of an ounce of allspice, a bit of cinnamon, and six cloves,
all bruised, after having previously mixed them cold.
The jelly should boil fifteen minutes without stirring;
then clear it through a flannel bag. While running
take a little jelly, and mix with a tea-cupful of water,
in which a bit of beet-root has been boiled, and run it
through the bag when all the rest is run out; and this is
to garnish the other jelly, being cooled on a plate ; but
this is matter of choice. This jelly lias a very tine high
colour and flavour.
Orange Jelly.
Grate the rind of two Seville and two China oranges,
and two lemons; squeeze the juice of three of each, and
strain, and add the juice to a quarter of a pound of lump
sugar, and a quarter of a pint of water, and boil till it
almost candies. Have ready a quart of isinglass-jelly
made with two ounces; put to it the syrup, and boil it
once up ; strain off the jelly, and let it stand to settle as
above, before it is put into the mould.
Hartshorn Jelly.
Simmer eight ounces of hartshorn shavings with two
quarts of water to one; strain it, and boil it with the
rinds of four China oranges and two lemons pared thin ;
when cool, add the juice of both, half a pound of sugar,
and the whites of six eggs beaten to a froth; let the jelly
have three or four boils without stirring, and strain it
through a jelly-bag.
Cranberry Jelly.
Make a very strong isinglass-jelly. When cold, mix
it with a double quantity of cranberry-juice pressed aa
214
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
directed in page 247, sweeten and boil it up; then strain
it into a shape.
The sugar must be good loaf, or the jelly will not be
clear.
Cranberry and Rice JeUy.
Boil and press the fruit, strain the juice, and by de-
grees mix into it as much ground rice as will, when
boiled, thicken to a jelly; boil it gently, stirring it,
and sweeten to your taste. Put it in a basin or form,
and serve to eat as the afore-directed jelly, with milk
or cream.
Apple Jelly to serve at table.
Prepare twenty golden pippins; boil them in a pint
and a half of water from the spring, till quite tender;
then strain the liquor through a colander. To every
pint put a pound of fine sugar ; add grated orange or
lemon; then boil to a jelly.
Another. — Prepare apples as before by boiling and
straining; have ready half an ounce of isinglass boiled
in half a pint of water to a jelly; put this to the apple
water, and apple as strained through a coarse sieve ; add
sugar, a little lemon-juice and peel ; boil all together,
and put into a dish. Take out the peel.
To scald Codlins.
Wrap each in a vine-leaf, and pack them close in a
nice sauce- pan; and when full, pour as much water as
will cover them. Set it over a gentle fire, and let them
simmer slowly till done enough to take the thin skin
off when cold. Place them in a dish, with or without
milk, cream, or custard; if the latter, there should be
no ratafia. Dust fine sugar over the apples.
Stewed Golden Pippins.
Scoop out the core, pare them Very thin, and as you
do it, throw them in water. For every pound of fruit,
make half a pound of single-refined sugar into syrup,
with a pint of water; when skimmed, put the pippins
215
SWEET DISHES,
in, and stew till clear; then grate lemon over, and serve
ia the syrup. Be careful not to let them break.
They are an elegant and good dish for a corner or
desert.
Black Caps.
Halve and core some fine large apples, put them in
a shallow pan, strew white sugar over, and hake them.
Boil a glass of wine, the same of water, and sweeten it
for sauce.
Another wciy. — Take off a slice from the stalk end of
some apples, and core without paring them. Make
ready as much sugar as may be sufficient to sweeten
them, and mix it with some grated lemon, and a few
cloves in fine powder. Stuff the holes as close as possi-
ble with this, and turn the flat end down on a stew-pan ;
set them on a very slow fire, with half of raisin wine,
and the same of water; cover them close, and now and
then baste them with the liquor ; when done enough,
black the tops with a salamander.
Stewed Pears.
Pare and halve, or quarter, large pears, according to
their size; throw them into water, as the skin is taken
off before they are divided, to prevent their turning
black. Pack them round a block-tin stew-pan, and
sprinkle as much sugar over as will make them pretty
sweet, and add leinon-peel, a clove or two, and some
allspice cracked ; just cover them with water, and put
some of the red liquor, as directed in another article.
Cover them close, and stew three or four hours ; when
tender, take them out, and pour the liquor over them.
Baked Pears.
These need not be of a fine sort : but some taste better
than others, and often those that are least fit to eat raw.
Wipe, but don't pare, and lay them on tin plates, and
bake them in a slow oven. When enough to bear it,
flatten them with a silver spoon. When done through,
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
put them on a dish. They should be baked three or
four times, and very gently.
Grange Butter.
Boil six hard eggs, beat them in a mortar with two
ounces of fine sugar, three ounces of butter, and two
ounces of blanched almonds beaten to a paste. Moisten
with orange-flower water, and when all is mixed, rub it
through a colander on a dish, and serve sweet biscuits
between.
Wine Roll.
Soak a penny French roll in raisin wine till it will
hold no more ; put it in the dish, and pour round it a
custard, or cream, sugar, and lemon-juice. Just before
it is served, sprinkle over it some nonpareil comfits; or
stick a few blanched slit almonds into it.
Sponge biscuits may be used instead of the roll.
To prepare Fruit for Children , a far more wholesome
way than in Pies and Puddings.
Put apples sliced, or plums, currants, gooseberries,
&c. into a stone jar, and sprinkle as much Lisbon sugar
as necessary among them; set the jar on a hot hearth,
or in a sauce-pan of water, and let it remain till the fruit
is perfectly done.
Slices of bread, or hce, may be either stew:ed with
the fruit, or added when eaten; the rice being plain
boiled.
To prepare Ice for Iceing.
Get a few pounds of ice, break it almost to powder,
throw a large handful and a half of salt among it. You
must prepare it in a part of the house where as little of
the warm air comes as you can possibly contrive. The
ice and salt being in a bucket, put your cream into an
ice-pot, and cover it; immerse it in the ice, and draw
that round the pot, so as to touch every possible part.
In a few minutes put a spatula or spoon in, and stir it
well, removing the parts that ice round the edges to the
SWEET DISHES. 217
centre. If the ice-cream, or water be in a form, shut
the bottom close, and move the whole in the ice, as you
cannot use a spoon to that without danger of waste.
There should be holes in the bucket, to let off the ice
as it thaws.
Note. — When any fluid tends towards cold, the mov-
ing it quickly accelerates the cold; and likewise, when
any fluid is tending to heat, stirring it will facilitate its
boiling.
Ice Waters.
Rub some fine sugar on lemon or orange, to give the
colour and flavour, then squeeze the juice of either on
its respective peel; add water and sugar to make a fiue
sherbet, and strain it before it be put into the ice-pot.
If orange, the greater proportion should be of the China
juice, and only a little of Seville, and a small bit of the
peel grated by the sugar.
Currant or Raspberry/ Water Ice.
The juice of these, or any other sort of fruit, being
gained by squeezing, sweetened and mixed with water
will be ready for iceing.
Ice Creams.
Mix the juice of the traits with as much sugar as will
be wanted, before you add cream, which should be of a
middling richness.
Brown Bread Ice.
Grate as fine as possible stale brown bread, soak a
small proportion in cream two or three hours, sweeten
and ice it.
Ratafia Cream.
Blanch a quarter of an ounce of bitter almonds, and
beat them with a tea-spoonful of water in a marble mor-
tar; then rub with the paste two ounces of lump-sugar,
and simmer ten minutes with a tea-cup of cream, which
add to a quart more of cream, and having strained,
ice it.
210
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Colourings to stain Jellies, Ices, or Cakes.
For a beautiful red, boil fifteen grains of cochineal in
the finest powder, with a dram and a half of cream of
tartar, in half a pint of water, very slowly, half an hour.
Add in boiling a bit of alum the size of a pea. Or use
beet-root sliced, and some liquor poured over.
For white, use almonds finely powdered, with a little
drop of water ; or use cream.
For yellow, yolks of eggs, or a bit of saffron steeped
in the liquor and squeezed.
For green, pound spinach-leaves or beet-leaves, ex-
press the juice, and boil-in a tea-cupful in a sauce-pan
of water to take off the rawness.
London Syllabub.
Put a pint and a half of port or white wine into a
bowl, nutmeg grated, and a good deal of sugar, then
milk into it near two quarts of milk, frothed up. If
the wine be not rather sharp, it will require more for
this quantity of milk.
In Devonshire, clouted cream is put on the top, and
pounded cinnamon and sugar.
Staffordshire Syllabub.
Put a pint of cyder, and a glass of brandy, sugar, and
nutmeg, into a bowl, and milk into it ; or pour warm
milk from a large tea-pot some height into it.
A very fine Somersetshire Syllabub.
In a large China bowl put a pint of port, and a pint
of sherry, or other white wine ; sugar to taste. Milk
the bowl full. In twenty minutes time cover it pretty
high with clouted cream; grate over it nutmeg, put
pounded cinnamon and nonpareil comfits.
Devonshire Junket.
Put warm milk into a bowl; turn it with rennet;
then put some scalded cream, sugar, and cinnamon, on
the top, without breaking the curd.
SWEET DISHES.
219
Everlasting, or Solid, Syllabubs.
Mix a quart of thick raw cream, one pound of refined
sugar, a pint and half of fine raisin wine in a deep pan;
put to it the grated peel and the juice of three lemons.
Beat, or whisk it one way half an hour; then put it on
a sieve with a bit of thin muslin laid smooth in the
shallow end till next day. Put it in glasses. It will
keep good, in a cool place, ten days.
Lemon Honeycomb.
Sweeten the juice of a lemon to your taste, and put it
in the dish that you serve it in. Mix the white of an
egg that is beaten with a pint of rich cream, and a little
sugar; whisk it, and as the froth rises, put it on the le-
mon-juice. Do it the day before it is to be used.
Rice and Sago Milks
Are made by washing the seeds nicely, and simmering
with milk over a slow fire till sufficiently done. The
former sort requires lemon, spice and sugar; the latter is
good without anything to flavour it.
A pretly Supper Dish.
Boil a tea-cupful of rice, having first washed it in
milk, till tender : strain off the milk, lay the rice in little
heaps on a dish, strew over them some finely powdered
sugar and cinnamon, and put warm wine and a little
butter into the dish.
Savoury Rice.
Wash and pick some rice, stew it very gently in a
small quantity of veal, or rich mutton broth, with an
onion, a blade of mace, pepper, and salt. When swell-
ed, but not boiled to mash, dry it on the shallow end of
a sieve before the fire, and either serve it dry, or put it
in the middle of a dish, and pour the gravy round, having
heated it.
Carrole of Rice.
Take some well-picked rice, wash it well, and boil
it five minutes in water, strain it, and Tut jj into a
220
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
stew-pan, with a bit of butter, a good slice of bam, and
an onion. Stew it over a very gentle fire till tender ;
have ready a mould lined with very thin slices of bacon ;
mix the yolks of two or three eggs with the rice, and
then line the bacon with it about half an inch thick ;
put into it a ragout of chicken, rabbit, veal, or of any
thing else. Fill up the mould, and cover it close with
rice. Bake it in a quick oven an hour, turn it over,
and send it to table in a good gravy, or curry-sauce.
Casserol, or Rice Edging , see page 137.
Salmagundy
Is a beautiful small dish, if in nice shape, and if the
colours of the ingredients are varied. For this purpose
chop separately the white part of cold chicken or veal,
yolks of eggs boiled hard, the whites of eggs, parsley,
half a dozen anchovies, beet- root, red pickled cabbage,
ham, and grated tongue, or any thing well-flavoured,
and of a good colour. Some people like a small pro-
portion of onion, but it may be better omitted. A
saucer, large tea-cup, or any other base, must be put
into a small dish; then make rows round it wide at bot-
tom, and growing smaller, towards the top; choosing
such of the ingredients for each row as will most vary
the colours. At the top a little sprig of curled parsley
may be stuck in ; or, without any thing on the dish,
the salmagundy may be laid in rows, or put into the
half- whites of eggs, which may be made to stand upright
by cutting off a little bit at the round end. In the latter
case, each half egg has but one ingredient. Curled
butter and parsley may be put as garnish between.
Macaroni as usually served.
Boil it in milk, or a weak veal broth, pretty well fla-
voured with salt. When tender, put it into a dish
without the liquor, and among it put some bits of
butter and grated cheese, and over the top grate more,
and a little more butter. Set the dish into a Dutch
SWEET DISHES. 221
oven a quarter of an hour, hut do not let the top be-
come hard.
Another way. — Wash it well, and simmer in half milk,
and half broth of veal or mutton, till it is tender. To
a spoonful of this liquor, put the yolk of an egg beaten
in a spoonful of cream ; just make it hot to thicken, but
not boil: puti t over the macaroni, and then grate tine
old cheese all over, and bits of butter. Brown with
the salamander.
Another. — Wash the macaroni, then simmer it in a
little broth, with a little pounded mace and salt. When
quite tender, take it out of the liquor, lay it in a dish,
grate a good deal of cheese over, than cover that with
bread grated fine. Warm some butter without oiling,
and pour it from a boat through a little earthen colan-
der all over the crumbs, then put the dish in a Dutch
oven, to roast the cheese, and brown the bread of a fine
colour. The bread should be in separated crumbs, and
look light.
Omlet.
Make a batter of eggs and milk, and a very little
flour; put to it chopped parsley, green onions, or chives,
(the latter is best) ora very small quantity of shalot,
a little pepper, salt, and a scrape or two of nutmeg.
Make some butter boil in a small frying-pan, and pour
the above batter into it; when one side is of a fine yel-
low brown, turn it and do the other. Double it when
served. Some scraped lean ham, or grated tongue, put
in at first, is a very pleasant addition. Four eggs will
make a pretty sized omlet; but many cooks will use
eight or ten. A small proportion of flour should be used.
If the taste be approved, a little taragon gives a fine
flavour. A good deal of parsley should be used.
Ramakins and omlet, though usually served in the
course, would be much better if they were sent up after,
that they might be eaten as hot as possible.
222 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Butter to serve as a little Dish.
Roll butter in different forms; either like .1 pine,
and make the marks with a tea-spoon, or roll it in
crimping rollers, work it through a colander, or scoop
with a tea-spoon, and mix with grated beef, tongue, or
anchovies. Make a wreath of curled parsley to garnish.
Itamakins.
Scrape a quarter of a pound of Cheshire, and ditto
of Gloucester cheese, ditto of good fresh butter; then
beat all in a mortar with the yolks of four eggs, and
the inside of a small French roll boiled in cream till
soft; mix the paste then with the whites of the eggs
previously beaten, and put into small paper pans made
rather long than square, and bake in a Dutch oven till
of a fine brown. They should be eaten quite hot. Some
like the addition of a glass of white wine.
The batter for ramakins is equally good over macaroni
when boiled tender; or on stewed brocoli, celery, or
cauliflower, a little of the gravy they have been stewed
in being put in the dish with them, but not enough to
make the vegetable swim.
Potted Cheese.
Cut and pound four ounces of Cheshire cheese, one
ounce and a half of fine butter, a tea-spoonful of white
pounded sugar, a little bit of mace, and a glass of white
wine. Press it down in a deep pot.
Roast Cheese, to come up after Dinner.
Grate three ounces of fat Cheshire cheese, mix it
with the yolks of two eggs, four ounces of grated bread,
and three ounces of butter; beat the whole well in a
mortar, with a desert-spoonful of mustard, and a little
salt and pepper. Toast some bread, cut it into proper
pieces, lay the paste as above thick upon them, put
them into a Dutch oven covered with a dish till hot
through, remove the dish, and let the cheese brown a
little. Serve as hot as possible.
SWEET DISHES.
223
Welch Rabbit.
Toast a slice of bread on both sides, and butter it;
toast a slice of Gloucester cheese on one side, and lay
that next the bread, and toast the other with a sala-
mander; rub mustard over, and serve very hot, and
covered.
Cheese Toast.
Mix some fine butter, made mustard, and salt, into
a mass; spread it on fresh-made thin toasts, and grate
or scrape Gloucester cheese upon them.
Anchovy Toast.
Bone and skin six or eight anchovies ; pound them to
a mass with an ounce of fine butter till the colour is
equal, and then spread it on toast or rusks.
Another way. — Cut thin slices of bread into any form,
and fry them in clarified butter. Wash three anchovies
split, pound them in a mortar with some fresh butter,
rub them through a hair-sieve, and spread on the toast
when cold. Then quarter and wash some anchovies,
and lay them on the toast. Garnish with parsley or
pickles.
To poach Eggs.
Set a stew-pan of water on the fire; when boiling,
slip an egg, previously broken into a cup, into the
water; when the white looks done enough, slide an egg-
slice under the egg, and lay it on toast and butter, or
spinach. As soon as enough are done, serve hot. If
not fresh-laid, they will not poach well, and without
breaking. Trim the ragged parts of the whites, and
make them look round.
Buttered Eggs.
Beat four or five eggs, yolk and white together, put
a quarter of a pound of butter in a basin, and then put
that in boiling water, stir it till melted, then pour
that butter and the eggs into a sauce-pan; keep a basin
in your hand, just hold the sauce-pan in the other over
224
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
a slow part of the fire, shaking it one way, as it begins
to warm ; pour it into a basin, and back, then hold it
again over the fire, stirring it constantly in the sauce- pan,
and pouring it into the basin, more perfectly to mix the
egg and butter, until they shall be hot without boiling.
Serve on toasted bread; ‘or in a basin, to eat with salt
fish, or red herrings.
Scotch Eggs.
Boil hard five pullets eggs, and without removing the
white, cover completely with a fine relishing forcemeat,
in which let scraped ham, or chopped anchovy, bear a
due proportion. Fry of a beautiful yellow brown, and
serve with a good gravy in the dish.
A Pepper-pot.
To three quarts of water, put such vegetables as you
choose; in summer, peas, lettuce, spinach, and two or
three onions; in winter, carrot, turnip, onions, and ce-
lery. Cut them very small, and stew them with two
pounds of neck of mutton, and a pound of pickled pork,
till quite tender. Half an hour before serving, clear a
lobster or crab from the shell, and put it into the stew.
Some people choose very small suet-dumplings boiled in
the above. Season with salt and Cayenne.
Instead of mutton, you may put a fowl. Pepper-pot
may be made of various things, and is understood to be
a proper mixture of fish, flesh, fowl, vegetables, and
pulse. A small quantity of rice should be boiled with
the whole.
The Staffordshire Dish of frying Herbs and. Liver.
Prepare the frying herbs as has been directed among
the vegetables, page 191; on which lay slices of liver
fried a beautiful brown, and slices of bacon just warmed
at the fire, and laid on each. On the outside part of
the herbs lay eggs fried very nicely, and then trimmed
round ; or they may be served on the herbs, and the
liver garnished with the bacon separately.
SWEETMEATS.
225
To preserve Suet a twelvemonth.
As soon as it comes in, choose the firmest part, and
pick free from skin and veins. In a very nice sauce-
pan, set it at some distance from the fire, that it may
melt without frying, or it will taste.
When melted, pour it into a pan of cold water. When
in a hard cake, wipe it very dry, fold it in line paper,
and then in a linen bag, and keep in a dry but not hot
place. When used, scrape it fine, and it will make a
tine crust, either with or without butter.
SWEETMEATS.
To green Fruits for preserving or pickling.
Take pippins, apricots, pears, plums, peaches, while
green lor the first, or radish-pods, French beans for the
latter, aud cucumbers for both processes; and put them,
with vine-leaves under and over, into a block-tin pre-
serving-pan, with spring-water to cover them, and then
the tin cover to exclude all air. Set it on the side of a
fire, and when they begin to simmer, take them oft, pour
off the water, and if not green, put fresh leaves when
cold, and repeat the same. Take them out carefully
with a slice : they are to be peeled, and then done ac-
cording to the receipts for the several modes.
To clarify Sugar for Sweetmeats.
Break as much as required in large lumps, and put a
pound to half a pint of water, in a bowl, and it will dis-
solve better than when broken small. Set it over the
fire, and the well-whipt white of an egg; let it boil up,
and, when ready to run over, pour a little cold water in
to give it a check; but when it rises a second time, take
it off the fire, and set it by in the pan for a quarter of an
hour, during which the foulness will sink to the bottom,
and leave a black scum on the top, which take off gently
with a skimmer, and pour the syrup into a vessel very
quickly from the sediment.
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
226
To candy any sort of Fruit.
When finished in the syrup, put a layer into a new
sieve, and dip it suddenly into hot water, to take off the
syrup that hangs about it; put it on a napkin before the
fire to drain, and then do some more in the sieve. Have
ready sifted double-refined sugar, which sift over the
fruit on all sides till quite white. Set it on the shallow
end of sieves in a lightly-warm oven, and turn it two or
three times. It must not be cold till dry. Watch it
carefully, and it will be beautiful.
To 'prepare Barberries for Tartlets.
Pick barberries that have no stones, from the stalks,
and to every pound weigh three quarters of a pound of
lump-sugar; put the fruit into a stone jar, and either set
it on a hot hearth, or in a sauce-pan of water, and let
them simmer very slowly till soft; put them and the su-
gar into a preserving-pan, and boil them gently fifteen
minutes. Use no metal but silver.
Barberries in bunches.
Have read}’ bits of flat white wood, three inches long
and a quarter of an inch wide. Tie the stalks of the
fruit on the stick from within an inch of one end to
beyond the other, so as to make them look handsome.
Simmer them in some syrup two successive days, cover-
ing them each time with it when cold. When they
look clear they are simmered enough. The third day,
do them like other candy fruit, see receipt for it above.
It is at the top of this pag3.
A beautiful vrsserve of Apricots.
When ripe, choose the finest apricots; pare them as
thin as possible, and weigh them. Lay them in halves
on dishes, with the hollow part upwards. Have ready
an equal weight of good loaf-sugar finely pounded, and
strew it over them ; in the mean time break the stones,
and blanch the kernels. When the fruit has lain twelve
hours, put it, with the sugar aud juice, and also the ker-
SWEETMEATS.
227
nels, into a preserving-pan. Let it simmer very gently
till clear; then take out the pieces of apricots singly as
they become so ; put them into small pots, and pour the
syrup and kernels over them. The scum must he taken
off as it rises. Cover with hrandy-paper.
To preserve Apricots in Jelly.
Pare the fruit very thin, and stone it; weigh an equal
quantity of sugar in fine powder, and strew over it.
Next day boil very gently till they are clear, move them
into a bowl, and pour the liquor over. The following
day pour the liquor to a quart of codlin-liquor, made by
boiling and straining, and a pound of fine sugar; let it
boil quickly till it will jelly; put the fruit into it, and
give one boil, skim well, and put into small pots.
To preserve green Apricots.
Lay vine or apricot leaves at the bottom of your pan,
then fruit, and so alternately till full, the upper layer
being thick with leaves; then fill with spring water, and
cover down, that no steam may come out. Set the pan
at a distance from the fire, that in four or five hours they
may be only soft, but not cracked. Make a thin syrup
of some of the water, and drain the fruit. When both
are cold, put the fruit into the pan, and the syrup to it;
put the pan at a proper distance from the fire till the
apricots green, but on no account boil or crack ; remove
them very carefully into a pan with the syrup for two or
three days ; then pour off as much of it as will be neces-
sary, and boil with more sugar to make a rich syrup,
and put a little sliced ginger into it. When cold, and
the thin syrup has all been drained from the fruit, pour
the thick over it. The former will serve to sweeten
pies.
A pricots or Peaches in Brandy.
Wipe, weigh, and pick the fruit, and have ready a
quarter of the weight of fine sugar in fine powder. Put
the fruit into an ice-pot that shuts very close ; throw the
2-28
DOMESTIC COOK EH V.
sugar over it, and then cover the fruit with brand}'.
Between the top and cover of the pot, put a piece of
double cap-paper. Set the pot into a sauce-pan of water
till the brandy be as hot as you can possibly bear to put
your finger in, but it must not boil. Put the fruit into
a jar, and pour the brandy on it. When cold, put a
bladder over, and tie it down tight.
To dry Apricots in half.
Pare thin and halve four pounds of apricots, weighing
them after; put them in a dish; strew among them three
pounds of sugar in the finest powder. When it melts,
set the fruit over a stove to do very gently; as each piece
becomes tender, take it out, and put it into a china-
bowl. When all are done, and the boiling heat a little
abated, pour the syrup over them. In a day or two re-
move the syrup, leaving only a little in each half. In a
day or two more turn them, and so continue daily till
quite dry, in the sun or a warm place. Keep in boxes
with layers of paper.
Apricot Cheese.
Weigh an equal quantity of pared fruit and sugar, wet
the latter a very little, and let it boil quickly, or the co-
lour will be spoiled; blanch the kernels, and add to it.
Twenty or thirty minutes will boil it. Put it in small
pots or cups half filled.
Orange Marmalade.
Rasp the oranges, cut out the pulp, then boil the rinds
very tender, and beat fine in a marble mortar. Boil
three pounds of loaf-sugar in a pint of water, skim it,
and add a pound of the rind; boil fast till the syrup is
very thick, but stir it carefully; then put a pint of the
pulp and juice, the seeds having been removed, and a
pint of apple liquor; boil all gently until well jellied,
which it will be in about half an hour. Put it into
small pots.
SWEETMEATS. 229
Lemon marmalade do in the same way; they are very
good and elegant sweetmeats.
Transparent M armalade.
Cut the palest Seville oranges in quarters, take the
pulp out, and put it in a basin, pick out the seeds and
skins. Let the outsides soak in water with a little salt
all night, then boil them in a good quantity of spring-
water till tender; drain and cut them in very thin slices,
and put them to the pulp; and to every pound a pound
and a half of double-refined sugar beaten fine; boil them
together twenty minutes, but be careful not to break the
slices. If not quite clear, simmer five or six minutes
longer. It must be stirred all the time very gently.
When cold put it into glasses.
To butter Oranges hot.
Grate off a little of the outside rind of four Seville
oranges, and cut a round hole at the blunt end opposite
the stalk, large enough to take out the pulp and seeds
and juice; then pick the seeds and skin from the pulp;
rub the oranges with a little salt, and lay them in water
for a short time. You are to save the bits cut out. Set
the fruit on to boil in fresh water till they are tender,
shifting the water to take out the bitterness. In the
mean time, make a thin syrup with fine sugar, and put
the oranges into it, and boil them up; turning them
round, that each part may partake of the syrup, as there
need not be enough to cover them, and let them remain
in it hot till they are to be served. About half an hour
before you want them put some sugar to the pulp, and
set over the fire; mix it well, and let it boil; then add
a spoonful of white wine for every orange, give it a boil,
and then put in a bit of fresh butter, and stir over the
fire to thicken; fill the oranges with it, and serve them
with some of the syrup in the dish. Put the bits on the
top.
230 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
To fill ■preserved Oranges ; a corner Dish.
For five take a pound of Naples biscuits, some blanch-
ed almonds, the yolks of four eggs beaten, sugar to your
taste, four ounces of butter warmed, grate the biscuits,
and mix with the above and some orange- flower- water.
Fill preserved oranges, and bake in a very slow oven.
If you like them frosted, sift sugar over them as soon as
filled; otherwise wipe them. Custard to fill will do as
well; if so, you need not bake the oranges, but put it
in when become cold.
Whole Oranges carved.
Cut on the rinds any shapes you please with a pen-
knife; cut a bit off near and round the stalk, and with
an apple-scoop take all the pulp carefully out; put them
into salt and water two days, changing it daily; boil
them an hour or more in fresh salt and water ; drain
them quite dry: let them stand a night more in plain
water, and then another night in a thin syrup, in which
boil them the next day a few minutes. Do this four
days successively. Let them stand six or seven weeks,
observing often whether they keep well ; otherwise boil
the syrup again. Then make a rich syrup.
Buttered Orange-juice, a cold dish.
Mix the juice of seven Seville oranges with four
spoonfuls of rose-water, and add the whole to the yolks
of eight, and whites of four eggs, well beaten ; then
strain the liquor to half a pound of sugar pounded, stir
it over a gentle fire, and when it begins to thicken, put
about the size of a small walnut of butter, keep it over
the fire a few minutes longer ; then pour it into a flat
dish, and serve it to eat cold.
If you have no silver sauce-pan, do it in a china basin
in a sauce-pan of boiling water, the top of which will
just receive the basin.
Orange Chips.
Cut oranges in halves, squeeze the juice through a
231
SWEETMEATS.
siev^; soak the peel in water ; next day boil in the
same till tender, drain them, and slice the peels, put
them to the juice, weigh as much sugar, and put all
together into a broad earthen dish, and put over the
lire at a moderate distance, often stirring till the chips
candy ; then set them in a cool room to dry. They will
not be so under three weeks.
Orange Biscuits, or little Cakes.
Boil whole Seville oranges in two or three waters,
till most of the bitterness is gone ; cut them, and take
out the pulp and juice ; then beat the outside very line
in a mortar, and put to it an equal weight of double-
refined sugar beaten and sifted. When extremely well
mixed to a paste, spread it thin on china dishes, and
set them in the sun, or before the fire ; when half dry,
cut it into what form you please, turn the other side up,
and dry that. Keep them in a box, with layers of
paper. '
They are for deserts ; and are also useful as a stom-
achic, to carry in the pocket on journeys, or for gentle-
men when shooting, and for gouty stomachs.
Orange-flower Cakes.
Put four ounces of the leaves of the flowers into cold
water for an hour ; drain, and put between napkins,
and roll with a rolling-pin till they are braised ; then
have ready boiled a pound of sugar to add to it in a
thick syrup, give them a simmer, until the syrup ad-
heres to the sides of the pan, drop in little cakes on a
plate, and dry as before directed.
To preserve Oranges or Lemons in Jelly.
Cut a hole in the stalk part, the size of a shilling, and
with a blunt small knife scrape out the pulp quite clear
without cutting the rind. Tie each separately in mus-
lin, and lay them in spring- water two days, changing
twice a day ; in the list boil them tender on a slow fire.
Observe that there is enough at first to allow for wast-
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
ing, as they must he covered to the last. To every
pound of fruit, weigh two pounds of double-refined sugar,
and one pint of water; boil the two latter together with
the juice of the orange to a syrup, and clarify it, skim
Avoll, and let it stand to be cold; then boil tlie fruit iu
tiie syrup half an hour; if not clear, do this daily till
they are done.
Pare and core some green pippins, and bof! in water
till it tastes strong of them; don’t break them, only
gently press them with the back of a spoon; strain the
water through a jelly-bag till quite clear; then to every
pint put a pound of double refined sugar, the peel and
juice of a lemon, and boil to a strong syrup. Drain off
tiie syrup from the fruit, and turning each orange with
t.;e hole upwards in the jar, pour the apple-jelly over it.
1 lie bits cut out must go through the same process with
the fruit. Cover with brandy-paper.
To keep Oranges or Lemons for Puddings, tSj'c.
Wheu you squeeze the fruit, throw the outside in wa-
ter, without the pulp ; let them remain in the same a
fortnight, adding no more; boil them therein till ten-
der, strain it from them, and when they are tolerably
dry, throw them into any jar of candy you may have
remaining from old sweetmeats ; or if you have none,
boil a small quantity of syrup of common loaf-sugar
and water, and put over them; in a week or ten davs
boil them gently in it till they look clear, and that they
may be covered with it iu the jar. You may cut each
haif of the fruit iu two, and they will occupy small
space.
To preserve Strawberries whole.
Take equal weights of the fruit and double-refined
sugar; lay the former in a large dish, and sprinkle half
the sugar, in fine powder over; give a gentle shake to
t ! e dish, that the sugar may touch the under side of the
fruit. Next day make a thin syrup with the remainder
SW KETM EATS.
233
of tlie sugar, and, instead of water, allow one pint of
red currant juice to every pound of strawberries ; in
this simmer them until sufficiently jellied. Choose the
largest scarlets, or others, when not dead ripe. In
either of the above ways, they eat well served in thin
cream, in glasses.
To preserve Strawberries in Wine.
Put a quantity of the finest large strawberries into a
gooseberry bottle, and strew in three large spoons of
line sugar; (ill up with Madeira wine, or fine sherry.
To dry Cherries with sugar.
Stone six pounds of Kentish ; put them into a pre-
serving-pan, with two pounds of loaf-sugar pounded
and strewed among them ; simmer till they begin to
shrivel; then strain them from the juice; lay them on a
hot hearth, or in an oven, when either is cool enough
to dry without baking them.
The same syrup will do another six pounds of fruit.
To dry Cherries without sugar.
Stone, and set them over the fire in the preserving-
pan; let them simmer in their own liquor, and shake
them in the pan. Put them by in china common dishes;
next day give them another scald, and put them, when
cold, on sieves to dry, in an oven of attemperated heat
as above. Twice heating, an hour each time, will do
them.
Put them in a box, with a paper between each layer.
To dry Cherries the. best way.
To every five pounds of cherries stoned, weigh one of
sugar double-refined. Put the fruit into the preserving-
pan with very little water, made both scalding hot :
take the fruit immediately out and dry them; put them
into the pan again, strewing the sugar between each
layer of cherries; let it stand to melt; then set the pan
on the fire, and make it scalding hot as before; take it
off, and repeat this thrice with the sugar. Drain them
234
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
from tlie syrup; and lay them singly to dry on dishes,
in the sun or on a stove. When dry, put them into a
sieve, dip it into a pan of cold water, and draw it in-
stantly out again, and pour them on a fine soft cloth ;
dry them, and set them once more in the hot sun, or on
a stove. Keep them in a box, with layers of white
paper, in a dry place. This way is the best to give
plumpness to the fruit, as well as colour and flavour.
Cherries in Brandy.
Weigh the finest morellas, having cut off half the
stalk ; prick them with a new needle, and drop them
into a jar or wide-mouthed bottle. Pound three
quarters the weight of sugar or white candy; strew
over; fill up with brandy, and tie a bladder over.
Cherry Jam.
To twelve pounds of Kentish or duke cherries, when
ripe, weigh one pound of sugar; break the stones of
part, and blanch them ; then put them to the fruit and
sugar, and boil all gently till the jam comes clear from
the pan. Pour it into china plates to come up dry to
table. Keep in boxes with white paper between.
Currant Jam, black, red, or white.
Let the fruit be very ripe, pick it clean from the
stalks, bruise it, and to every pound put three quarters
of a pound of loaf sugar; stir it well, and boil half an
hour.
Currant Jelly, red or black.
Strip the fruit, and in a stone jar strew them in a
sance-pan of water, or by boiling it on the hot earth ;
strain off the liquor, and to every pint weigh a pound of
loaf-sugar; put the latter in large lumps into it, in a stone
or china vessel, till nearly dissolved; then put it in a
preserving-pan ; simmer and skim as necessary. When
it will jelly on a plate, put it in small jars or glasses.
Apple Marmalade.
Scald apples till they will pulp from the core; then
SWEETMEATS.
take an equal weight of sugar in large lumps, just dip
them in water, and boiling it till it can be well skim-
med, and is a thick syrup, put to it the pulp, and sim-
mer it on a quick fire a quarter of an hour. Grate a
little lemon-peel before boiled, but if too much it will
be bitter.
Apple Jelly for preserving Apricots , or for any sort of
Sweetmeats.
Let apples be pared, quartered, and cored ; put them
into a stew-pan with as much water as will cover them;
boil as fast as possible ; when the fruit is all in a mash,
add a quart of water ; boil half an hour more, and run
through a jelly-bag.
If in summer, codlins are best; in September, golden
rennets or winter-pippins.
Red Apples in Jelly.
Pare and core some well-shaped apples ; pippins or
golden rennets if you have them, but others will do;
throw them into water as you do them ; put them in a
preserving-pan, and with as little water as will only half
cover them; let them coddle, and when the lower side
is done, turn them. Observe that they do not lie too
close when first put in. Mix some pounded cochineal
with the water, and boil with the fruit. When suffi-
ciently done, take them out on the dish they are to be
served in, the stalk downwards. Take the water, and
make a rich jelly of it with loaf-sugar, boiling the thin
rind and juice of a lemon. When come to a jelly, let
it grow cold, and put it on and among the apples ; cut
the peel of the lemon in narrow strips, and put across
the eye of the apple.
Observe that the colour be fine from the first, or the
fruit will not afterwards gain it; and use as little of the
cochineal as will serve, lest the syrup taste bitter.
Dried Apples.
Put them in a cool oven six or seven times, and flatten
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
them by degrees, and gently, when soft enough to bear
it. If the oven be too hot they will waste; and at first
it should be very cool.
The biffin, the minshul crab, or any tart apples, are
the sorts for drying.
To preserve jargand Pears most beautifully.
Pare them very thin, and simmer in a thin syrup; let
them lie a day or two. Make the syrup richer, and
simmer again; and repeat this till they are clear; then
drain, and dry them in the sun or a cool oven a very
little time. They may be kept in syrup, and dried as
wanted, which makes them more moist and rich.
Gooseberry Jam for Tarts.
Put twelve pounds of the red hairy gooseberries, when
ripe and gathered in dry weather, into a preserving-pan,
with a pint of currant-juice, drawn as for jelly ; let
them boil pretty quick, and beat them with the spoon;
when they begin to break, put to them six pounds of
pure white Lisbon sugar, and simmer slowly to a jam.
It requires long boiling, or will not keep; but is an ex-
cellent and seasonable thing for tarts or puffs. Look
at it in two or three days, and if the syrup and fruit
separate, the whole must be boiled longer. Be careful
it does not burn to the bottom.
Another. — Gather your gooseberries (the clear white
or green sort) when ripe ; top and tail, and weigh them ;
a pound to three quarters of a pound of fine sugar, and
half a pint of water; boil and skim the sugar and water;
then put the fruit, and boil gently till clear; then break
and put into small pots.
White Gooseberry Jam.
Gather the finest white gooseberries, or green if you
choose, when just ripe ; top and tail them. To each
pound put three quarters of a pound of fine sugar, and
half a pint of water. Boil and clarify the sugar in the
water as directed in page '2'25; then add the fruit; sim-
SWEETMEATS. 237
iner gently till clear, then break it, and in a few mi-
nutes put the jam into small pots.
Gooseberry Hops.
Of the largest green walnut kind, take and cut the
bud end in four quarters, leaving the stalk end whole;
pick out the seeds, and with a strong needle and thread
fasten five or six together, by running the thread
through the bottoms, till they are of the size of a hop.
Lay vine-leaves at the bottom of a tin preserving-pan,
cover them with the hops, then a layer of leaves, and so
on ; lay a good many on the top, then fill the pan with
water. Stop it so close down that no steam can get out,
set it by a slow fire till scalding hot, then take it oft till
cold, and so do till on opening while cold, the goose-
berries are of a good green. Then drain them on sieves,
and make a thin syrup of a pound of sugar, to a pint of
water, boil, and skim it well; when half cold, put in
the fruit; next day give it one boil; do this thrice. If
the hops are to be dried, which way they eat best, and
look well, they may be set to dry in a week : but if to
be kept wet, make a syrup in the above proportions,
adding a slice of ginger in boiling; when skimmed and
clear, give the gooseberries one boil, and when cold,
pour it over them. If the first syrup be found too sour,
a little sugar may be added and boiled in it, before the
hops that are for drying have their last boil.
The extra-syrup will serve for pies, or go towards
other sweetmeats.
Raspberry Jam.
Weigh equal quantities of fruit and sugar ; put the
former into a preserving-pan, boil and break it, stir con-
stantly, and let it boil very quickly. When most of
the juice is wasted, add the sugar, and simmer half an
hour.
This way the jam is greatly superior in colour aud
238
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
flavour to that which is made by putting the sugar in
at first.
Another way. — Put the fruit in a jar in a kettle of
water, or on a hot hearth, till the juice will run from it,
then take away a quarter of a pint from every pound of
fruit'; boil and bruise it half an hour, then put in the
weight of the fruit in sugar, and, adding the same quan-
tity of currant-juice, boil it to a strong jelly.
The raspberry juice will serve to put into brandy, or
may be boiled with its weight in sugar for making the
jelly for raspberry ice or cream.
To preserve Greengages.
Choose the largest, when they begin to soften ; split
them without paring, and strew a part of the sugar
which you have previously weighed an equal quantity
of. Blanch the kernels with a small sharp knife. Next
day, pour the syrup from the fruit, and boil it with the
other sugar, six or eight minutes, very gently; skim,
and add the plums and kerq^ls. Simmer till clear,
taking off any scum that rises ; put the fruit singly into
small pots, and pour the syrup and kernels to it. If
you would candy it, do not add the syrup, but observe
the directions that will be given for candying fruit ;
some may be done each way.
Damson Cheese.
Bake or boil the fruit in a stone jar in a sauce pan of
water, or on a hot hearth. Pour off some of the juice,
and to every two pounds of fruit weigh half a pound of
sugar. Set the fruit over a fire in the pan, let it boil
quickly till it begin to look dry ; take out the stones,
and add the sugar, stir it well in, and simmer two
hours slowly, then boil it quickly half an hour, till the
sides of the pan candy; pour the jam then into potting-
pans or dishes, about an inch thick, so that it may cut
firm. If the skins be disliked, then the juice is not to
taken out ; but after the first process, the fruit is to
SWEETMEATS.
23!)
be pulpeil through a very coarse sieve with the juice,
and managed as above. The stones are to be cracked,
or some of them, and the kernels boiled in the jam. All
the juice may be left in, and boiled to evaporate, but
don’t add the sugar until it has done so. The above
looks well in shapes.
Muscle-plum, Cheese.
Weigh siy pounds of the fruit, bake it in a stone jar,
remove the stones, and take out the kernels to put in.
Pour half the juice on two pounds and a half of good
Lisbon ; when melted and simmered a few minutes,
skim it, and add the fruit. Keep it doing very gently
till the juice is much evaporated, taking care to stir it
constantly, lest it burn. Pour it into small moulds,
pattypans, or saucers. The remaining juice may serve
to colour cream, or be added to a pie.
Biscuits of Fruit.
To the pulp of any scalded fruit put an equal weight
of sugar sifted, beat it two hours, then put it into little
white paper forms, dry in a cool oven, turn the next
day, and in two or three days box them.
Quince Marmalade.
Pare and quarter quinces, weigh an equal quantity of
sugar; to four pounds of the latter put a quart of water,
boil and skim, and have ready against four pounds of
quinces are tolerably tender by the following mode : lay
them into a stone jar, with a tea-cup of water at the
bottom, and pack them with a little sugar strewed be-
tween ; cover the jar close, and set it on a stove or cool
oven, and let them soften till the colour become red,
then pour the fruit syrup and a quart of quince juice
into a preserving- pan, and boil all together till the mar-
malade be completed, breaking the lumps of fruit with
the preserving ladle.
This fruit is so hard, that if it be not done as above,
it requires a great l«al of time.
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
240
Stewing quinces in a jar, and then squeezing them
through a cheese cloth, is the best method of obtaining
the juice to add as above, and dip the cloth in boiling
water first and wring it.
To preserve whole or half Quinces.
Into two quarts of boiling water put a quantity of the
fairest golden pippins, in slices not very thin, and not
pared, but wiped clean. Boil them very quick, close
covered, till the water becomes a thick jelly; then scald
the quinces. To every pint of pippin-jelly put a pound
of the finest sugar; boil it, and skim it clear. Put those
quinces that are to be done whole into the syrup at
once, and let it boil very fast; and those that are to be
in halves by themselves ; skim it, and when the fruit
are clear, put some of the syrup into a glass to try
whether it jellies before taking off the fire. The quan-
tity of quinces is to be a pound to a pound of sugar, and
a pound of jelly already boiled with the sugar.
Excellent Sweetmeats for Tarts, when Fruit is plentiful.
Divide two pounds of apricots when just ripe, and take
out and break the stones; put the kernels without their
skins to the fruit ; add to it three pounds of greengage
plums, and two pounds and a half of lump sugar; sim-
mer until the fruit be a clear jam. The sugar should be
broken in large pieces, and just dipped in water, and
added to the fruit over a slow fire. Observe that it does
not boil, and skim it well. If the sugar be clarified it
will make the jam better.
Put it into qpaall pots, in which all sweetmeats keep
best.
Magnum Bonum Plums; excellent as a Sweetmeat or in
Tarts, though very bad to eat raw.
Prick them with a needle to prevent bursting, simmer
them very gently in a thin syrup, put them in a china
bowl, and when cold pour it over. Let them lie three
days; then make a syrup of three pounds oi sugar to
SWEETMEATS.
241
five of fruit, with no more water than hangs to large
lumps of the sugar dipped quickly, and instantly brought
out. Boil the plums in this fresh syrup, after draining
the first from them. Do them very gently till they
are clear, and the syrup adheres to them. Put them
one by one into small pots, and pour the liquor over.
Those you may like to dry, keep a little of the syrup
for, longer in the pan, and boil it quickly ; then give
the fruit one warm more, drain, and put them to dry
on plates in a cool oven. These plums are apt to fer-
ment, if not boiled in two syrups ; the former will
sweeten pies, but will have too much acid to keep.
You may reserve part of it, and add a little sugar, to
do those that are to dry, for they will not require to
be so sweet as if kept wet, and will eat very nicely if
only boiled as much as those. Don’t break them. One
parcel may be done after another, and save much sugar.
Lemon Drops.
Grate three large lemons, with a large piece of dou-
ble-refined sugar; then scrape the sugar into a plate, add
half a tea-spoonful of flour, mix well, and bea,t it into
light paste with the white of an egg. Drop it upon
white paper, and put them into a moderate oven on a
jin plate.
Barberry Drops.
The black tops must be cut off : then roast the fruit
before the fire, till soft enough to pulp with a silver
spoon, through a sieve into a china basin; then set the
basin in a sauce-pan of water, the top of which will just
fit it, or on a hot hearth, and stir it till it grows thick.
When cold, put to every pint a pound and a half of
sugar, the finest double-refined, pounded and sifted
through a lawn sieve, which must be covered with a fine
linen, to prevent its wasting while sifting. Beat the
sugar and juice together three hours and a half if a
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
242
large quantity, but two ami a half for less ; then drop
it on sheets of white thick paper, the size of the drops
sold in the shops.
Some fruit is not so sour, and then less sugar is ne-
cessary. To know if there be enough, mix till well
incorporated, and then drop ; if it run, there is not
enough sugar, and if there is too much it will be rough.
A dry room will suffice to dry them. No metal must
touch the juice but the point of a knife, just to take the
drop off the end of the wooden spoon, and then as little
as possible.
Ginger Drops : a good Stomachic.
Beat two ounces of fresh candied orange in a mortar
with a little sugar, to a paste; then mix one ounce of
powder of white ginger with one pound of loaf-sugar.
Wet the sugar with a little water, and boil altogether to
a candy, and drop it on paper the size of mint drops.
Peppermint Drops.
Pound and sift four ounces of double-refined sugar,
beat it with the whites' of two eggs till perfectly smooth ;
then add sixty drops of oil of peppermint, beat it we: l,
and drop on white paper, and dry at a distance from the
tire.
Ratafia Drops.
Blanch and beat in a mortar four ounces of bitter,
and two ounces of sweet almonds, with a little of a
pound of sugar sifted, and add the remainder of the su-
gar, and the whites of two eggs, making a paste ; of
which put little balls, the size of a nutmeg, on wafer-
paper, and bake gently on tin plates.
Raspberry Cukes.
Pick out any bad raspberries that are among the
fruit, weigh and boil what quantity you please, and
when mashed, and the liquor is wasted, put to it sugar
the weight of the fruit you first put into the pan, mix it
well the fire until perfectly dissolved, then put it on
PRESERVES.
243
china plates, and dry it in the sun. As soon as the top
part dries, cut with the cover of a canister into small
cakes, turn them on fresh plates, and, when dry, put
them in boxes with layers of paper.
TO PRESERVE FRUITS FOR WINTER USE.
Observations on Siveetmeals.
Sweetmeats should be kept carefully from the air, and
in a very dry place. Unless they have a very small pro-
portion of sugar, a warm one does not hurt ; hut when
not properly boiled, that is, long enough, but not quick,
heat makes them ferment ; and damp causes them to
grow mouldy. They should be looked at two or three
times in the first two months, that they may be gently
boiled again, if not likely to keep.
It is necessary to observe, that the boiling of sugar
more or less, constitutes the chief art of the confection-
er; and those who are not practised in this knowledge,
and only preserve in a plain way for family use, are not
aware that, in two or three minutes, a syrup over the
fire will pass from one gradation to another called by
the confectioners degrees of boiling, of which there are
six, and those subdivided. But I am not versed in
the m inutile, and only make the observation to guard
against under-boiling, which prevents sweetmeats from
keeping; and quick boiling and long, which brings them
to candy.
Attention, without much practice, will enable a per-
son to do any of the following sorts of sweetmeats, &c.
and they are as much as is wanted in a private familv;
the higher articles o(; preserved fruits may be bought at
less expence than made.
Jellies of fruit made with equal quantity of sugar,
that is, a pound to a pint, require no very long boiling.
A pan should be kept for the purpose of preserving,
oi double block tin, with a bow-handle opposite the
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
244
straight one, for safety, will do very well ; and if put by
nicely cleaned, in a dry place, when done with, will
last for several years. Those of copper or brass are im-
proper, as the tinning wears out by the scraping of the
sweetmeat ladle. There is a new sort of iron, with a
strong tinning, which promises to wear long. Sieves
and spoons should be kept likewise for sweet things.
Sweetmeats keep best in drawers that are not con-
nected with a wall. If there be the least damp, cover
them only with paper dipped in brandy, laid quite close,
putting a little fresh over in spring, to prevent insect
mould.
When any sweetmeats are directed to be dried in the
sun or in a stove, it will be best in private families,
where there is not a regular stove for the purpose, to
put them in the sun on flag-stones, which reflect the
heat, and place a garden glass over them to keep insects
off ; or if put in an oven, to take care not to let it be
too warm, and watch that they do properly and slowly.
To keep Currants.
The bottles being perfectly clean and dry, let the cur-
rants be cut from the large stalks with the smallest bit
of stalk to each, that the fruit not being wounded no
moisture may be among them. It is necessary to ga-
ther them when the weather is quite dry ; and if the
servant can be depended upon, it is best to cut them
under the trees, and let them drop gently into the bot-
tles.
Stop up the bottles with cork and rosin, and put
them into the trench in the garden with the neck down-
wards; sticks should be placed opposite to where each
sort of fruit begins.
Cherries and Damsons keep in the same way.
Currants may be scalded, as directed for gooseberries,
the first method.
PRESERVES.
245
To keep Codlins for several months.
Gather codlins at Midsummer of a middling size, put
them into an earthen pan, pour boiling water over them,
and cover the pan with cabbage-leaves. Keep them by
the fire till they would peel, but don’t peel them; then
pour the water off till both are quite cold. 1 lace the
codlins then in a stone jar with a smallish mouth, and
pour on them the water that scalded them. Cover the
pot with bladder wetted, and tied very close, and then
over it coarse paper tied again.
It is best to keep them in small jars, such as will be
used at once when opened.
To keep Gooseberries.
Before they become too large, let them be gathered,
and take care not to cut them in taking off the stalks
and buds. Fill wide-mouthed bottles ; put the corks
loosely in, and set the bottles up to the neck in water
in a boiler. When the fruit looks scalded, take them
out; and when perfectly cold, cork close, and rosin the
top. Dig a trench in a part of the garden least used,
sufficiently deep for all the bottles to stand, and let the
earth be thrown over, to cover them a foot and a half.
When a frost comes on, a little fresh litter from the
stable will prevent the ground from hardening so that
the fruit cannot be dug up. Or, scald as above; when
cold, fill the bottles with cold water, cork them, and
keep them in a damp or dry place ; they will not be
spoiled.
Another way.— In the size and preparation as above;
when done, have boiling water ready, either in a boiler
or large kettle; and into it put as much roach- alum as
will, when dissolved, harden the water, which you will
taste by a little roughness ; if there be too much it will
spoil the fruit. Put as many gooseberries into a large
sieve as will lie at the bottom without covering one
another. Hold the sieve in the water till the fruit be-
246
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
gins to look scalded on the outside * then turn them
gently out of the sieve on a cloth on the dresser, co-
ver them with another cloth, and put some more to be
scalded, and so on till all be finished. Observe not to
put one quantity on another, or they will become too
soft. The next day pick out any bad or broken ones,
bottle the rest, and fill up the bottles with the alum-
water in which they were scalded, which must be kept
in the bottles ; for if left in the kettle, or in a glazed
pan, it will spoil. Stop them close.
I he water must boil all the time the process is carry-
ing on. Gooseberries done this way make as fine tarts
as fresh off the trees.
Another way. In dry weather pick the gooseberries
that are full grown, but not ripe; top and tail them, and
put into open-mouthed bottles; gently cork them with
new velvet corks; put them in the oven when the bread
is drawn, and let them stand till shrunk a quarter part ;
take them out of the oven, and immediately beat the
corks in tight, cut off the tops, and rosin down close;
set them in a dry place ; and if well secured from air
they will keep the year round.
If gathered in the damp, or the gooseberries’ skins
are the least cut in taking off the stalks and buds, they
will mould. The hairy sort only must be used for
keeping, and do them before the seeds become large.
Currants and damsons may be done the same.
To keep Damsons for winter Pies.
Put them in small stone jars, or wide-mouthed bot-
tles ; set them up to their necks in a boiler of cold wa-
ter, and lighting a fire under, scald them. Next day,
when perfectly cold, fill up with spring water ; cover
them.
Another way. — Boil one third as much sugar as fruit
with it, over a slowr fire, till the juice adheres to the
fruit, and forms a jam. Keep it in small jars in a dry
PRESERVES.
247
place. If too sweet, mix with it some of the fruit that
is done without sugar.
Another way.— Choose steen-pots if you can get them,
which are of equal size top and bottom (they should hold
eight or nine pounds;) put the fruit in about a quarter
up, then strew in a quarter of the sugar; then aiiotne-.
quantity of fruit, and so till all of both are in. I he pro-
portion of sugar is to be three pounds to nine pounds ot
fruit. Set the jars in the oven, and bake the fruit quite
through. When cold, put a piece of clean scraped stick
into the middle of the jar, and let the upper part stand
above the top; then pour melted mutton-suet over the
top, full half an inch thick, having previously covered
the fruit with white paper. Keep the jars in a cool dry
place, and use the feet as a cover, which you will draw-
up by the stick, minding to leave a little forked branch
to it to prevent its slipping out.
To preserve Fruit for Tarts , or Family Fescrts.
Cherries, plums of all sorts, and American apples,
gather when ripe, and lay them in small jars that will
hold a pound ; strew over each jar six ounces ol good
loaf-sugar pounded; cover with two bladders each, sepa-
rately tied down; then set the jars in a large stew-pan
of water up to the neck, and let it boil three hours
gently. Keep these and all other sorts of fruit free
from damp.
To keep Lemon Juice.
Buy the fruit when cheap, keep it in a cool place two
or three days, if too unripe to squeeze readily; cut the
peel off some, and roll them under your hand to make
them part with the juice more readily; others you may-
leave unpared for grating, when the pulp shall be taken
out and dried. Squeeze the juice into a China basin;
then strain it through some muslin, which will not per-
mit the least pulp to pass. Have ready half and quar-
ter ounce phials perfectly dry; fill them with the juice
213
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
SO near the top as onJy to admit half a tea-spoonful of
sweet oil into each; or a little more, if for larger bottles.
Cork the bottles, and set them upright in a cool place.
When you want lemon-juice, open such a sized bottle
as you shall use in two or three days; wind some clean
cotton round a skewer, and dipping it in, the oil will
be attracted; and when all shall be removed, the juice
will be as fine as when first bottled.
Hang the peels up till dry; then keep them from the
dust.
China Orange Juice. A very useful thing to mix
u-ith water in Fevers, when the fresh juice
cannot be produced.
Squeeze from the finest fruit, a pint of juice strained
through fine muslin, and gently simmer with three quar-
ters of a pound of double- refined sugar twenty minutes;
when cold, put it in small bottles.
Different ways of dressing Cranberries.
For pies and puddings with a good deal of sugar.
Stewed in a jar with the same ; which way thev eat
well with bread, and are very wholesome.
Thus done, pressed and strained, the juice makes a
line drink for people in fevers.
Orgeat.
Boil a quart of new milk with a stick of cinnamon,
sweeten to your taste, and let it grow cold; then pour it
by degrees to three ounces of almouds, and twenty bit-
ter, that have been blanched and beaten to a paste, with
a little water to prevent oiling; boil all together, and stir
till cold, then add half a glass of brandy.
Another way. — Blanch and pound three quarters of a
pound of almonds, and thirty bitter, with a spoonful of
water. Stir in by degrees two pints of water, and three
of milk, and strain the whole through a cloth. Dissolve
halt a pound of fine sugar in a pint of water, boil and
»knn it well ; mix it with the other, as likewise two
PRESERVES. 249
spoonfuls of orange-flower water, and a tea-cupful of
the best brandy.
Lemonade, to be maxle a day before wanted.
Pare two dozen of tolerably sized lemons as thin as
possible, put eight of the rinds into three quarts of hot,
not boiling water, and cover it over for three or four
hours. Rub some fine sugar on the lemons to attract
the essence, and put it into a china bowl, into which
squeeze the juice of the lemons. To it add one pound
and a half of fine sugar, then put the water to the above,
and three quarts of milk made boiling hot ; mix, and
pour through a jelly-bag till perfectly clear.
Another way. — Pare a number of lemons according to
the quantity you are likely to want ; on the peels pour
hot water, but more juice will be necessary than you
need use the peels of. While infusing, boil sugar and
water to a good syrup with the white of an egg whipt
up ; when it boils, pour a little cold water into it ; set
it on again, and when it boils up take the pan off, and
set it to settle. If there is any scum, take it off, and
pour it clear from the sediment to the water the peels
were infused in, and the lemon-juice ; stir and taste it,
and add as much more water as shall be necessary to
make a very rich lemonade. Wet a jelly bag, and
squeeze it dry, then strain the liquor, which is uncom-
monly fine.
Lemonade that has the flavour and appearance of Jelly.
Pare two Seville oranges and six lemons as thin as
possible, and steep them four hours in a quart of hot
water. Boil a pound and a quarter of loaf sugar in
three pints of water, and skim it. Add the two liquors
to the juice of six China oranges, and twelve lemons ;
stir the whole well, and run it through a jelly-bag till
clear. Then add a little orange-water, if you like the
flavour, and, if wanted, more sugar. It will keep well
if corked.
250
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Raspberry Vinegar.
Put a pound of fine fruit into a china bowl, and pour
upon it a quart of the best white wine vinegar ; next
day strain the liquor on a pound of fresh raspberries ;
and the following day do the same, but do not squeeze
the fruit, only drain the liquor as dry as you can from
it. The last time pass it through a canvas previously
wet with vinegar to prevent waste. Put it into a stone
jar, with a pound of sugar to every pint of juice, broken
into large lumps ; stir it when melted, then put the
jar into a sauce-pan of water, or on a hot hearth, let it
simmer, and skim it. When cold, bottle it.
This is one of the most useful preparations that can
be kept in a house, not only as affording the most re-
freshing beverage, but being of singular efficacy in com-
plaints of the chest. A large spoonful or two in a tum-
bler of water. Be careful to use no glazed nor metal
vessel for it.
The fruit, with an equal quantity of sugar, makes
excellent Raspberry Calces without boiling.
PART .IX.
CAKES, BREAD, &c.
Observations on making and baking Calces.
Currants should be very nicely washed, dried in a
cloth, and then set before the fire. If damp they will
make cakes or puddings heavy. Before they are added,
a dust of dry flour should be thrown among them, and
a shake given to them, which causes the thing that they
are put to, to be lighter.
CAKES. 2.51
Eggs should be very long beaten, whites and yolks
apart, and always strained.
Sugar should be rubbed to a powder on a clean board,
and silted through a very fine hair or lawn-sieve.
Lemon-peel should be pj.red very thin, and with a
little sugar beaten in a marble mortar to a paste, and
then mixed with a little wine, or cream, so as to di-
vide easily among the other ingredients.
After all the articles are put into the pan, they should
bo thoroughly and long beaten, as the lightness of the
cake depends much on their being well incorporated.
Whether black or white plum-cakes, they require less
butter and eggs for having yeast, and eat equally light
and rich. If the leaven be only of flour, milk and
water, and yeast, it becomes more tough, and is less
easily divided, than if the butter be first put with those
ingredients, and the dough afterwards set to rise by the
fire.
The heat of the oven is of great importance for cakes,
especially those that are large. If not pretty quick, the
batter will not rise. Should you fear its catching by
being too quick, put some paper over the cake to pre-
vent its being burnt. If not long enough lighted to
have a body of heat, or it is become slack, the cake will
be heavy. To know when it is soaked, take a broad-
bladed knife that is very bright, and plunge it into the
very centre, draw it instantly out, and if the least sticki-
ness adheres, put the cake immediately in, and shut up
the oven.
If the heat was sufficient to raise, but not to soak,
I have with great success had fresh fuel quickly put in,
and kept the cakes hot till the oven was lit to finish the
soaking, and they turned out extremely well. But
I those who are employed, ought to be particularly care-
ful that no mistake occur from negligence when large
cakes are to be baked.
252
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Teeing for Cukes.
For a large one, beat and sift eight ounces of fine su-
gar, put into a mortar with four spoonfuls of rose-water,
and the whites of two eggs beaten and strained, whisk
it well, and when the cake«is almost cold, dip a feather
in the iceing, and cover the cake well ; set it in the
oven to harden, but don’t let it stay to discolour. Put
the cake into a dry place.
To ice a very large Cake.
Beat the whites of twenty fresh eggs ; then by de-
grees heat a pound of double- refined sugar sifted through
a lawn-sieve ; mix these well in a deep earthen pan ;
add orange-flower water, and a piece of fresh lemon-
peel ; of the former enough to flavour, and no more.
Whisk it for three hours till the mixture is thick and
white ; then with a thin broad bit of board spread it all
over the top and sides, and set it iu a cool oven, aud an
hour will harden it.
A common Cake.
Mix three quarters of a pound of flour with half a
pound of butter, four ounces of sugar, four eggs, half an
ounce of caraways, and a glass of raisin-wine. Beat it
well, and bake in a quick oven. Fine Lisbon sugar
will do.
A very good common Cake.
Rub eight ounces of butter into two pounds of dried
flour ; mix it with three spoonfuls of yeast that is not
bitter, to a paste. Let it rise an hour and a half ; then
mix in the yolks aud whites of four eggs beaten apart,
one pound of sugar, some milk to make it a proper
thickness (about a pint will be sufficient), a glass of
sweet wine, the rind of a lemon, and a tea-spoonful of
ginger. Add either a pound of currants, or some cara-
ways, and beat well.
An excellent Cake.
Rub two pounds of dry fine flour, with one of butter
CAKES.
253
washed in plain and rose-water, mix it with three spoon-
fuls of yeast in a little warm milk and water. Set it
to rise an hour and a half before the fire ; then beat in-
to it two pounds of currants, one pound of sugar sifted,
four ounces of almouds, sis ounces ot stoned raisins,
chopped fine, half a nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice, and a
few cloves, the peel of a lemon chopped as fine as pos-
sible, a glass of wine, ditto of brandy, twelve yolks and
whites of eggs beat separately and long, orange, citron,
and lemon. Beat exceedingly well, aud butter the pan.
A quick oven.
A very fine Cake.
Wash two pounds and a half of fresh butter in water
first, and then in rose-water ; beat the butter to a cream ;
beat twenty eggs, yolks and whites separately, half an
hour each. Have ready two pounds and a half of the
finest flour, well dried, and kept hot, likewise a pound
and a half of sugar pounded and sifted, one ounce of
spice in finest powder, three pounds of currants nicely
cleaned and dry, half a pound of almonds blanched,
and three quarters of a pound of sweatmeats cut not too
thin. Let all be kept by the fire, mix all the dry in-
gredients ; pour the eggs strained to the butter ; mix
half a pint of sweet wine with a large glass of brandy ;
pour it to the butter and eggs, mix well, then have all
the dry things put in by degrees ; beat them very tho-
roughly, you can hardly do it too much. Having half
a pound of stoned jar-raisins chopped as fine as possible,
mix them carefully, so that there shall be no lumps, and
add a tea-cupful of orange-flower w'ater. Beat the in-
gredients together a full hour at least. Have a hoop
well buttered, or, if you have none, a tin or copper
cake-pan ; take a white paper, doubled and buttered,
and put in the pan round the edge, if the cake batter
till it more than three parts ; for space should be allow-
254
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
ed fur rising. Bake in a quick oven. It will require
three hours.
Rout Drop Cakes.
Mix two pounds of flour, one ditto butter, one ditto
sugar, one ditto currants, clean and dry ; then wet into
a stiff paste, with two eggs, a large spoon of orange-
flower water, ditto rose-water, ditto sweet wine, ditto
biandy, drop on a tin plate floured; a very short time
bakes them.
Flat Cakes , that will keep lone/ in the house good .
Mix two pounds of flour, one pound of sugar, and one
ounce of caraways, with four or five eggs, and a few
spoonfuls of water, to make a stiff paste ; roll it thin,
and cut it into any shape. Bake on tins lightly floured.
"While baking, boil a pound of sugar in a pint of water
to a thin syrup ; while both are hot, dip each cake into
it, and put them on tins into the oven to dry for a short
time; and when the oven is cooler still, return them
there again, and let them stay four or five hours.
Little White Cakes.
Dry half a pound of flour, rub into it a very little
pounded sugar, one ounce of butter, one egg, a few ca-
raways, and as much milk and water as to make a
paste ; roll it thin, and cut it with the top of a canister
or glass. Bake fifteen minutes on tin plates.
Little short Cakes.
Bub into a pound of dried flour four ounces of butter,
four ounces of white powder-sugar, one egg, and a
spoonful or two of thin cream to make into a paste.
When mixed, put currants into one half, and caraways
into the rest. Cut them as before, and bake on tins.
Plum Cake.
Mix thoroughly a quarter of a peck of fine flour, well
diied, with a pound of dry and sifted loaf sugar, three
pounds of currants washed, and very dry, half a pound
of raisins stoned and chopped, a quarter of an ounce of
CAKES.
2oo
mace and cloves, twenty Jamaica peppers, a grated nut-
meg, the peel of a lemon cut as tine as possible, and
half a pound of almonds blanched and beaten with
orange- flower water. Melt two pounds of butter in a
pint and a quarter of cream, but not hot, put to it a
pint of sweet wine, a glass of brandy, the whites and
yolks of twelve eggs beaten apart, and half a pint ot
good yeast. Strain this liquid by degrees into the dry
ingredients, beating them together a full hour, then
butter the hoop, or pan, and bake it. As you put the
batter into the hoop, or pan, throw in plenty of citron,
lemon, and orange-candy.
If you ice the cake, take half a pound of double-
refined sugar sifted, and put a little with the white of
an egg, beat it well, and by degrees pour in. the re-
mainder. It must be whisked near an hour, with the
addition of a little orange-flower water, but mind not
to put much. When the cake is done, pour the iceing
over, and return it to the oven for fifteen minutes ; but
if the oven be warm, keep it near the mouth, and the
door open, lest the colour be spoiled.
Another. — Flour dried, and currants washed and
picked, four pounds, sugar pounded and sifted one
pound and a half, six orange, lemon, and citron-peels,
cut in slices : mix these.
Beat ten eggs, yolks and whites separately ; then
melt a pound and a half of butter in a pint of cream ;
when lukewarm, put it to half a pint of ale-yeast, near
half a pint of sweet wine, and the eggs ; then strain the
liquid to the dry ingredients, beat them well, and add
of cloves, mace, cinnamon, and nutmeg, half an ounce
each. Butter the pau, and put it into a quick oven,
Three hours will bake it.
Very good common Plum Cakes.
Mix five ounces of butter in three pounds of dry
flour, and live ounces of line Lisbon sugar ; add six
256 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
ounces of currants, washed and dried, and some pi-
mento finely powdered. Put three spoonfuls of yeast
into a Winchester pint of new milk warmed, and mix
into a light dough with the above. Make it into twelve
cakes, and bake on a floured tin half an hour.
Little Plum, Cukes, to keep long.
Dry one pound of flour, and mix with six ounces of
finely pounded sugar ; beat six ounces of butter to a
cream, and add to three eggs, well beaten, half a pound
of currants washed, and nicely dried, and the flour and
sugar ; beat all for some time, then dredge flour on tin
plates, and drop the batter on them the size.of a walnut.
If properly mixed, it will be a stiff paste. Bake in a
brisk oven.
A good Pound Cake.
Beat a pound of butter to a cream, and mix with it
the whites and yolks of eight eggs beaten apart. Have
ready warm by the fire, a pound of flour, and the same
of sifted sugar, mix them and a few cloves, a little nut-
meg and cinnamon in fine powder together ; then by de-
grees work the dry ingredients into the butter and eggs.
When well beaten, add a glass of wine and some cara-
ways. It must be beaten a full hour. Butter a pan,
and bake it a full hour in a quick oven.
The above proportions, leaving out four ounces of the
butter, and the same of sugar, make a less luscious
cake, and to most tastes a more pleasant one.
A cheap Seed Cake.
Mix a quarter of a peck of flour with half a pound of
sugar, a quarter of an ounce of allspice, and a little
ginger ; melt three quarters of a pound of butter, with
half a pint of milk ; when just warm, put to it a quarter
of a pint of yeast, and work up to a good dough. Let
it stand before the fire a few minutes before it goes to
the oven ; add seeds, or currants, and bake an hour
and a half.
CAKES.
257
Another. — Mix a pound and a half of flour, and a
pound of common lump-sugar, eight eggs beaten sepa-
rately, an ounce of seeds, two spoonfuls of yeast, and
the same of milk and water.
Note. Milk alone causes cake and bread soon to dry.
Common Bread Cake.
Take the quantity of a quartern loaf from the dough,
when making white bread, and knead well into it two
ounces of butter, two of Lisbon sugar, and eight of cur-
rants. Warm the butter in a tea-cupful of good milk.
By the addition of an ounce of butter, or sugar, or
an egg or two, you may make the cake the better. A
tea-cupful of raw cream improves it much. It is best
to bake it in a pan, rather than as a loaf, the outside
being less hard.
Queen Cakes.
Mix a pound of dried flour, the same of sifted sugar,
and of washed clean currants. Wash a pound of butter
in rose-water, beat it well, then mix with it eight eggs,
yolks and whites beaten separately, and put in the dry
ingredients by degrees ; beat the whole an hour ; butter
little tins, tea cups, or saucers, and bake the batter in,
filling only half. Sift a little fine sugar over just as you
put into the oven.
Another way. — Beat eight ounces of butter, and mix
with two well-beaten eggs, strained ; mix eight ounces
of dried flour, and the same of lump-sugar, and the
grated rind of a lemon, then add the whole together,
and beat full half an hour with a silver spoon. Butter
small pattypans, half fill, and bake twenty minutes in
a quick oven.
Shrewsbury Cakes.
Sift one pound of sugar, some pounded cinnamon,
and a nutmeg grated, into three pounds of flour, ti e
finest sort ; add a little rose-water to three eggs, well
K
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
258
beaten, and mix these with the flour, &c. then pour into
it as much butter melted as will make it a good thick-
ness to roll out.
Mold it well, and roll thin, and cut it into such
shapes as you like.
Tunbridge Cakes.
Rub six ounces of butter quite fine, into a pound of
flour, then mix six ounces of sugar, beat and strain two
eggs, and make with the above into a paste. Roll it
very thin, and cut with the top of a glass; prick them
with a fork, and cover with caraways, or wash with the
white of an egg, and dust a little white sugar over.
Rice Cake.
Mix ten ounces of ground rice, three ounces of flour,
eight ounces of pounded sugar ; then sift by degrees into
eight yolks and six whites of eggs, and the peel of a le-
mon shred so fine that it is quite mashed ; mix the whole
well in a tin stew-pan over a very slow fire with a
whisk, then put it immediately into the oven in the
same, and bake forty minutes.
Another. — Beat twelve yolks and six whites of eggs
with the peels of two lemons grated. Mix one pound
of flour of rice, eight ounces of flour, and one pound of
sugar pounded and sifted; then beat it well with the
eggs by degrees, for an hour, with a wooden spoon.
Butter a pan well, and put it in at the oven mouth.
A gentle oven will bake it in an hour and a half.
Water Cakes.
Dry three pounds of fine flour, and rub into it one
pound of sugar sifted, one pound of butter, and one
ounce of caraway-seed. Make it into a paste with three
quarters of a pint of boiling new milk, roll very thin,
and cut it into the size you choose ; punch full of holes,
and bake on tin plates in a cool oven.
Spungc Cake.
Weigh ten eggs, and their weight in very fine sugar,
CAKES.
259
ami that of six in flour ; beat the yolks with the flour,
and the whites alone, to a very stiff froth ; then by de-
giees mix the w'hites and the flour with the other ingre-
dients, and beat them well half an hour. Bake in a
quick oven an hour.
Another, without butter. — Dry one pound of flour, and
one and a quarter of sugar ; beat seven eggs, yolks and
w'hites apart ; grate a lemon, and, with a spoonful of
brandy, beat the whole together with your hand for an
hour. Bake in a buttered pan, in a quick oven.
Sweetmeats may be added, if approved.
Tea Cakes.
, Rub fine four ounces of butter into eight ounces of
flour ; mix eight ounces of currants, and six of fine Lis-
bon sugar, two yolks and one white of eggs, and a
spoonful of brandy. Roll the paste the thickness of an
Oliver biscuit, and cut with a wine glass. You may
beat the other white, and wash over them ; and either
dust sugar, or not, as you like.
Benton Tea Cakes.
Mix a paste of flour, a little bit of butter, and milk :
roll as thin as possible, and bake on a back-stone over
the fire, or on a hot hearth.
Another sort, as Biscuits— Rub into a pound of flour
six ounces of butter, and three large spoonfuls of yeast,
and make into a paste, with a sufficient quantity of new
milk ; make into biscuits, and prick them with a clean
fork.
Another Sort. — Melt six or ’seven ounces of butter
with a sufficiency of new milk warmed to make seven
pounds of flour into a stiff paste ; roll thin, and make
into biscuits.
A Biscuit Cake.
One pound of flour, five eggs well beaten and strained,
eight ounces of sugar, a little rose or orange-flower wa-
ter ; beat the whole thoroughly, and bake one hour
2G0
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Macaroons.
Blanch four ounces of almonds, and pound with four
spoonfuls of orange-flour water ; whisk the whites of
four eggs to a froth, then mix it, and a pound of sugar
sifted, with the almonds, to a paste ; and laying a sheet
of wafer-paper on a tin, put it on in different little cakes,
the shape of macaroons.
Wafers.
Dry the flour well which you intend to use, mix a
little pounded sugar and finely pounded mace with it ;
then make it into a thick batter with cream ; butter the
wafer irons, let them be hot ; put a tea-spoonful of the
batter into them, so bake them carefully, and roll them
off the iron with a stick.
Crack Nuts.
Mix eight ounces of flour, and eight ounces of sugar ;
melt four ounces of butter in two spoonfuls of raisin-
wine : then, with four eggs beaten and strained, make
into a paste ; add caraways, roll out as thin as paper,
cut with the top of a glass, wash with the white of an
egg, and dust sugar over.
Cracknels.
Mix with a quart of flour half a nutmeg grated, the
yolks of four eggs beaten, with four spoonfuls of rose-
water, into a stiff paste, with cold water ; then roll in
a pound of butter, and make them into a cracknel shape ;
put them into a kettle of boiling water, and boil them
till they swim, then take out, and put them into cold
water ; when hardened, lay them out to dry, and bake
them on tin plates.
A good plain Bun, that may be eaten with or without
toasting and butler.
Rub four ounces of butter into two pounds of flour,
four ounces of sugar, a nutmeg, or not, as you like, a
few Jamaica peppers, a desert spoonful of caraways ;
put a spoonful or two of cream into a cup of yeast, and
CAKES.
261
as much good milk as will make the above into a light
paste. Set it to rise by a fire till the oven be ready.
They will quickly bake on tins.
Richer Buns.
Mix one pound and a half of dried flour with half a
pound of sugar ; melt a pound and two ounces of butter
in a little warm water ; add six spoonfuls of rose-water,
and knead the above into a light dough, with half a
pint of yeast ; then mix five ounces of caraway-comfits
in, and put some on them.
Gingerbread.
Mix with two pounds of flour half a pound of treacle,
three quarters of an ounce of caraways, one ounce of
ginger finely sifted, and eight ounces of butter.
Roll the paste into what form you please, and bake
on tins, after having worked it very much, and kept it
to rise.
If you like sweetmeats, add orange candied ; it may
be added in small bits.
Another sort. — To three quarters of a pound of treacle
beat one egg strained ; mix four ounces of brown sugar,
half an ounce of ginger sifted ; of cloves, mace, allspice,
and nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce, beaten as fine as
possible ; coriander and caraway seeds, each a quarter
of an ounce ; melt one pound of butter, and mix with
the above ; and add as much flour as will knead into a
pretty stiff paste ; then roll it out, and cut into cakes.
Bake on tin plates in a quick oven. A little time
will bake them.
Of some, drops may he made.
A good plain sort. — Mix three pounds of flour with
half a pound of butter, four ounces of brown sugar, half
an ounce of pounded ginger ; then make into a paste
with one pound and a quarter of treacle warm.
A good sort without butter. — Mix two pounds of trea-
cle ; of orange, lemon, and citron and candied ginger
2G2
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
eacli four ounces, all thinly sliced ; one ounce of cori-
ander seeds, one ounce of caraways, and one ounce of
beaten ginger, in as much flour as will make a soft
paste ; lay it in cakes on tin plates, and bake it in a
quick oven. Keep it dry in a covered earthen vessel,
and it will he good for some months.
Note. If cake or biscuits be kept in paper, or a
drawer, the taste will be disagreeable. A pan and cover,
or tureen, will preserve them long and moist. Or, if
to be crisp, laying them before the (ire will make them so.
Rusks.
Beat seven eggs well, and mix with half a pint of
new milk, in which have been melted four ounces of
butter ; add to it a quarter of a pint of yeast, and three
ounces of sugar, and put them, by degrees, into as much
flour as will make a very light paste, rather like a bat-
ter, and let it rise before the fire half an hour ; then
add some more flour, to make it a little stiffer, hut not
stiff. W ork it well, and divide it into small loaves, or
cakes, about five or six inches wide, and flatten them.
When baked and cold, slice them the thickness of rusks,
and put them in the oven to brown a littie.
Note. The cakes, when first baked, eat deliciously
buttered for tea ; or, with caraways, to eat cold.
To make Yeast.
Thicken two quarts of water with fine flour, about
three spoonfuls ; boil half an hour, sweeten with near
half a pound of brown sugar ; when near cold, put into
it lour spoonfuls of fresh yeast in a jug, shake it well
together, and let it stand one day to ferment near the
fire, without being covered. There will be a thin liquor
on the top, which must be poured off ; shake the re-
mainder, and cork it up for use. Take always four
spoonfuls of the old to ferment the next quantity, keep-
ing it always in succession.
A lialf-peck loaf will require about a gill.
I5READ, &c. 263
Another way. — Boil one pound of potatoes to a mash ;
•when half cold, add a cupful of yeast, and mix it well.
It will be ready for use in two or three hours, and
keeps well.
Use double the quantity of this to what you do of
beer-yeast.
To take off the bitter of yeast, put bran into a sieve,
and pour it through, having first mixed a little warm
water with it.
To make Bread.
Let flour be kept four or five weeks before it is be-
gun to bake with. Put half a bushel of good flour into
a trough, or kneading-tub ; mix with it between four
and five quarts of warm water, and a pint and a half of
good yeast ; put it into the flour, and stir it well with
your hands till it becomes tough. Let it rise about an
hour and twenty minutes, or less if it rises fast ; then,
before it falls, add four quarts more of warm water, and
half a pound of salt ; work it well, and cover it with a
cloth. Put the fire then into the oven ; and by the
time it is warm enough, the dough will be ready. Make
the loaves about five pounds each ; sweep out the oven
very clean and quick, and put in the bread ; shut it up
close, and two hours and a half will bake it. In sum-
mer the water should be milk-warm, in winter a little
more, and in frosty weather as hot as you can well bear
your hand in, but not scalding, or the whole will be
spoiled. If baked in tins, the crust will be very nice.
The oven should be round, not long ; the roof from
twenty to twenty-four inches high, the mouth small, and
the door of iron, to shut close. This construction will
save firing and time, and bake better than long and
high-roofed ovens.
Bolls, muffins, or any sort of bread, may be made to
taste new when two or three days old, by dipping them
uncut in water, and baking afresh or toasting.
2G4 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
American Flour
Requires almost twice as much water to make it into
bread as is used for English flour, and therefore it is
more profitable ; for a stone of the American, which
weighs fourteen pounds, will make twenty-one pounds
and a half of bread, but the best sort of English flour
produces only eighteen pounds and a half.
The Reverend Mr /lay (jet's economical Bread.
Only the coarse flake-bran is to be removed from the
flour ; of this take five pounds, and boil it in rather
more than four gallons of water ; so that when perfectly
smooth, you may have three gallons and three quarts of
bran-water clear. With this knead fifty-six pounds of
the flour, adding salt and yeast in the same way and
proportions as for other bread. When ready to bake,
divide it into loaves, and bake them two hours and a
half.
Thus made, flour will imbibe three quarts more of
bran-water than of plain ; so that it not only produces a
more nutritious substantial food, but makes an increase
of one-fifth of the usual quantity of bread, which is a
saving of one day’s consumption out of six ; and if this
•was adopted throughout the kingdom, it would make a
saving of ten millions sterling a year, when wheat was
at the price it stood in the scarcity, reckoning the con-
sumption to be two hundred thousand bushels a day.
The same quantity of flour which, kneaded with wa-
ter, produces sixty-niue pounds eight ounces of bread,
will, in the above way, make eighty-three pounds eight
ounces, and gain fourteen pounds. At the ordinary
price of flour four millions would be saved. When ten
days old, if put into the oven for twenty minutes, this
bread will appear quite new again.
Rice and iclieat Bread.
Simmer a pound of rice in two quarts of water till it
becomes perfectly solt ; when it is of a proper warmth,
BREAD, &C. 265
mix it extremely well with four pounds of flour, and
yeast and salt as for other bread ; of yeast about four
large spoonfuls ; knead it extremely well ; then set it to
rise before the fire. Some of the flour should be re-
served to make up the loaves. The whole expense, in-
cluding baking, will not exceed three shillings, for
which eight pounds and a half of exceeding good bread
will be produced. If the rice should require more water,
it must be added, as some rice swells more than others.
French Bread.
With a quarter of a peck of fine flour mix the yolks
of three and whites of two eggs, beaten and strained, a
little salt, half a pint of good yeast that is not bitter,
and as much milk, made a little warm, as will work
into a thin light dough. Stir it about, but don’t knead
it. Have ready three quart wooden dishes, divide the
dough among them, set it to rise, then turn them out
into the oven, which must be quick. Rasp when done.
4 To discover whether Bread has been adulterated with
whiting or chalk.
Mix it with lemon-juice, or strong vinegar, and if
this puts it into a state of fermentation, you may be
certain it has a mixture of alkaline particles ; and these
are sometimes in large quantities in baker’s bread.
To detect Bones, Jalap, Ashes, <$c. in Bread.
Slice a large loaf very thin, the crumb only ; set it
over the fire with water, and let it boil gently a long
time ; take it off, and pour the water into a vessel ; let
it stand till near cold ; then pour it gently out, and in
the sediment will be seen the ingredients which have
been mixed. The alum will be dissolved in the water,
and may be extracted from it. If jalap has been used,
it will form a thick film at top, and the heavy ingre-
dients will sink to the bottom.
Excellent Rolls.
W arm one ounce of butter in half a pint of milk, put
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
206
to it a spoonful and a half of yeast of small beer, and a
little salt. Put two pounds of flour into a pan, and mix
in the above. Let it rise an hour ; knead it well ; make
into seven rolls, and bake in a quick oven.
If made in cakes three inches thick, sliced and but-
tered, they resemble Sally Lumm’s, as made at Bath.
The foregoing receipt, with the addition of a little
saffron boiled in half a tea-cupful of milk, makes them
remarkably good.
French Rolls.
Rub an ounce of butter into a pound of flour ; mix
one egg beaten, a little yeast that is not bitter, and as
much milk as will make a dough of a middling stiffness.
Beat it well, but do not knead ; let it rise, and bake on
tins.
Brentford Rolls.
Mix with two pounds of flour a little salt, two ounces
of sifted sugar, four ounces of butter, and two eggs
beaten with two spoonfuls of yeast, and about a pint of
milk. Knead the dough well, and set it to rise before
the fire. Make twelve rolls, butter tin plates, and set
them before the fire to rise, till they become of a proper
size ; then bake half an hour.
Potatoe Rolls.
Boil three pounds of potatoes, bruise and work them
with two ounces of butter, and as much milk as will
make them pass through a colander. Take half or three
quarters of a pint of yeast, and half a pint of warm
water, mix with the potatoes, then pour the whole up-
on five pounds of flour, and add some salt. Knead it
well : if not of a proper consistence, put a little more
milk and water warm ; let it stand before the fire an
hour to rise ; work it well, and make into rolls. Bake
about half an hour in an oven not quite so hot as for
bread.
They eat well toasted and buttered.
HOME- BREWERY.
2G7
Muffins.
Mix two pounds of flour with two eggs, two ounces
of butter melted in a pint of milk, and four or five
spoonfuls of yeast ; beat it thoroughly, and set it to rise
two or three hours. Bake on a hot hearth in flat cakes.
When done on one side turn them.
Note. Muffins, rolls, or bread, if stale, may be made
to' taste new, by dipping in cold water, and toasting, or
heating in an oven, or Dutch oven, till the outside be crisp.
Yorkshire Cuke.
Take two pounds of flour, and mix with it four ounces
of butter melted in a pint of good milk, three spoonfuls
of yeast, and two eggs ; beat all well together, and let
it rise ; then knead it, and make into cakes ; let them
rise on tins before you bake, which do in a slow oven.
Another sort is made as above, leaving out the but-
ter. The first sort is shorter ; the last lighter.
Hard Biscuits.
Warm two ounces of butter in as much skimmed
milk as will make a pound of flour into a very stiff paste,
beat it with a rolling pin, and work it very smooth.
Roll it thin, and cut it into round biscuits ; prick them
full of holes with a fork. About six minutes will bake
them.
Plain and very crisp Biscuits.
Make a pound of flour, the yolk of an egg, and some
milk, into a very stiff paste ; beat it well, and knead
till quite smooth ; roll very thin, and cut into biscuits.
Bake them in a slow oven till quite dry and crisp.
PART X.
HOME-BREWERY, WINES, &c.
To brew very fine Welch Ale.
Pour forty- two gallons of water hot, but not quite
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
2(18
boiling, on eight bushels of malt, cover, and let it stand
three hours. In the mean time infuse four pounds of
hops in a little hot water, and put the water and hops into
the tub, and run the wort upon them, and boil them to-
gether three hours. Strain off the hops, and keep for
the small beer. Let the wort stand in a high tub till
cool enough to receive the yeast, of which put two quarts
of ale, or if you cannot get it, of small beer yeast.
Mix it thoroughly and often. When the wort has done
working, the second or third day, the yeast will sink
rather tlian rise in the middle, remove it then, and tun
the ale as it works out ; pour a quart in at a time, and
gently, to prevent the fermentation from continuing too
long, which weakens the liquor. Put a bit of paper
over the bung-hole two or three days before stopping up.
Strong Beer, or Ale.
Twelve bushels of malt to the hogshead for beer, (or
fourteen if you wish it of a very good body) eight for
ale; for either pour the whole quantity of water hot,
but not boiling, on at once, and let it infuse three hours
close covered; mash it in the first half hour, and let it
stand the remainder of the time. Run it on the hops
previously infused in water ; for strong beer three quar-
ters of a pound to a bushel ; if for ale, half a pound.
Boil them with the wort two hours from the time it
begins to boil. Cool a pailful to add three quarts of
j'east to, which will prepare it for putting to the rest
when ready next day ; but if possible put together the
same night. Tun as usual. Cover the bung hole with
paper when the beer has done working ; and when it is
to be stopped, have ready a pound and a half of hops
dried before the fire, put them into the bung-hole and
fasten it up.
Let it stand twelve months in casks, and twelve in
bottles before it be drunk. It will keep, and be very
HOME-BREWERY. 269
fine, eight or ten years. It should be brewed the begin-
ning of March.
Great care must he taken that the bottles are perfect-
ly prepared, and that the corks are of the best sort.
The ale will be ready in three or four months ; and if
the vent-peg be never removed, it will have spirit and
strength to the very last. Allow two gallons of water
at first for waste.
After the beer or ale is run from the grains, pour a
hogshead and a half for the twelve bushels, aud a hogs-
head of water if eight were brewed ; mash, and let stand,
and then boil, &c. Use some of the hops for this table-
beer that were boiled for the strong.
When thunder or hot weather causes beer to turn
sour, a tea-spoonful, or more, if required, of salt
of wormwood put into the jug will rectify it. Let
it be drawn just before it is drunk, or it will taste
lint.
Excellent Table Beer.
On three bushels of malt pour of hot water the third
of the quantity you are to use, which is to be thirty-
nine gallons. Cover it warm half an hour, then mash,
and let it stand two hours and a half more, than set it
to drain. When dry, add half the remaining water,
mash, and let it stand half an hour, run that into another
tub, and pour the rest of the water on the malt, stir it
well, and cover it, letting it infuse a full hour. Run
that off, and mix all together. A pound and a half of
hops should be infused in water, as in the former receipt,
and be put into the tub for the first running.
Boil the hops with the wort an hour from the time
it first boils. Strain off and cool. If the whole be not
cool enough that day to add to the yeast, a pail or two
of wort may be prepared, and a quart of yeast put to it
over night. Before tunning, all the wort should be
added together, and thoroughly mixed with the lade-
270 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
pail. W hen the wort ceases to work, put a bit of paper
on the bung-hole for three days, when it may be safely
fastened close. In three or four weeks the beer will be
fit for drinking.
Note. Servants should be directed to put a cork in-
to every barrel as soon as the cock is taken out, and to
fasten in the vent-peg, the air causing casks to become
musty.
To refine Beer , Ale , Wine, or Cyder.
Put two ounces of isinglass shavings to soak in a quart
of the liquor that you want to clear, beat it with a whisk
every day till dissolved. Draw off a third part of the
cask, and mix the above with it; likewise a quarter of
an ounce of pearl-ashes, one ounce of salt of tartar cal-
cined, and one ounce of burnt alum powdered. Stir it
well, then return the liquor into the cask, and stir it
with a clean stick. Stop it up, and in a few days it will
be fine.
Eoetract of Mali for Coughs.
Over half a bushel of pale ground malt, pour as much
hot, not boiling water, as will just cover it. In forty-
eight hours drain off the liquor entirely, but without
squeezing the grains; put the former into a large sweet-
meat pan, or sauce-pan, that there may be room to boil
as quick as possible, without boiling over : when it be-
gins to thicken stir constantly. It must be as thick as
treacle.
A desert spoon thrice a-day.
To preserve Yeast.
When you have plenty of yeast, begin to save it in the
following manner ; whisk it until it becomes thin, then
take a new large wooden dish, wash it very nicely, and
when quite dry, lay a layer of yeast over the inside with
a soft brush ; let it dry, then put another layer in the
same manner, and so do until you have a sufficient quan-
tity, observing that each coat dry thoroughly before an-
WINES, &c. 271
other be added. It may be put on two or three inches
thick, and will keep several months ; when to be used,
cut a piece out ; stir it in warm water.
If to be used for brewing, keep it by dipping large
handfuls of birch tied together ; and when dry, repeat
the dipping once. You may thus do as many as you
please ; but take care that no dust comes to them, or
the vessel in which it has been prepared as before.
When the wort is set to work, throw into it one of
these bunches, and it will do as well as with fresh
yeast ; but if mixed with a small quantity first, and then
added to the whole, it will work sooner.
Remarks on English Wines.
English wines would be found particularly useful, now
foreign are so'diigh-priced ; and though sugar is dear,
they may be made at a quarter of the expense. If care-
fully made, and kept three or four years, a proportion-
able strength being given, they would answer the pur-
pose of foreign wines for health, and cause a very con-
siderable reduction in the expenditure.
A rich and pleasant Wine.
Take new cyder from the press, mix it with as much
honey as will support an egg, boil gently fifteen minutes,
but not in an iron, brass, or copper pot. Skim it well ;
when cool, let it be tunned, but don’t quite fill. In
March following bottle it, and it will be fit to drink in. six
weeks ; but will be less sweet if kept longer in the cask.
Y ou will have a rich and strong wine, and it will keep
well. This will serve for any culinary purposes which
milk, or sweet wine, is directed for.
Honey is a fine ingredient to assist, and render pala-
table, new crabbed austere cyder.
Raspberry Wine.
To every quart of well-picked raspberries put a quart
of water ; bruise, and let them stand two days ; strain
DOMESTIC COOKKUY.
272
off the liquor, and to every gallon put three pounds of
lump sugar; when dissolved put the liquor in a barrel,
and when tine, which will be in about two months, bot-
tle it, and to each bottle put a spoonful of brandy, or a
glass of wine.
Raspberry or Currant Wine.
To every three pints of fruit, carefully cleared from
mouldy or bad, put one quart of water; bruise the for-
mer. In twenty-four hours strain the liquor, and put to
every quart a pound of sugar, of good middling quality
of Lisbon. If for white currants, use lump-sugar. It is
best to put the fruit, &c. in a large pan, and when in
three or four days the scum rises, take that off before
the liquor he put into the barrel.
Those who make from their own gardens, may not
have a sufficiency to fill the barrel at once ; the wine
will not be hurt if made in the pan, in the above pro-
portions, and added as the fruit ripens, and can be ga-
thered in dry weather. Keep an account of what is put
in each time.
Another way. — Put five quarts of currants, and a pint
of raspberries, to every two gallons of water ; let them
soak a night; then squeeze and break them well. Next
day rub them well on a fine wire sieve, till all the juice
is obtained, washing the skins again with some of the
water ; then to every gallon put four pounds of very
good Lisbon sugar, but not white, which is often adul-
terated ; tun it immediately, and lay the bung lightly
oil. Do not use any thing to work it. In two or three
days put a bottle of brandy to every four gallons; bung
it close, but leave the peg out at top a few days ; keep
it three years, and it will be a very fine agreeable wine ;
four years would make it still better.
Black Currant Wine, very fine.
To every three quarts of juice, put the same of water
unboiled ; and to every three quarts of the liquor, add
wines, &c. 273
three pounds of very pure moist sugar. Put it into a
cask, reserving a little for filling up. Put the cask in a
warm dry room, and the liquor will ferment of itself.
Skim off the refuse, when the fermentation shall be
over, and fill up with the reserved liquor. When it has
ceased working, pour three quarts of brandy to forty
quarts of wine. Bung it close for nine months, then
bottle it, and drain the thick part through a jelly-bag,
until it be clear, and bottle that. Keep it ten or twelve
months.
Excellent Ginger Wine.
Put into a very nice boiler ten gallons of water, fif-
teen pounds of lump-sugar, with the whites of six or
eight eggs well beaten and strained; mix all well while
cold; when the liquor boils, skim it well; put in half a
pound of common white ginger bruised, boil it twenty
minutes. Have ready the very thin rinds of seven le-
mons, and pour the liquor on them ; when cool, tun it
with two spoonfuls of yeast ; put a quart of the liquor
to two ounces of isinglass shavings, while warm, whisk
it well three or four times, and pour all together into
the barrel. Next day stop it up; in three weeks bottle,
and in three months it will be a delicious and refresh-
ing liquor; and though very cool, perfectly safe.
Another. — Boil nine quarts of water with six pounds
of lump-sugar, the rinds of two or three lemons very
thinly pared, with two ounces of bruised white ginger
half an hour; skim. Put three quarters of a pound of
raisins into the cask; when the liquor is lukewarm, tun
it with the juice of two lemons strained, and a spoonful
and a half of yeast. Stir it daily, then put in half a
pint of brandy, and half an ounce of isinglass-shavings;
stop it up, and bottle it six or seven weeks. Do not
put the lemon-peel in the ban-el.
Excellent Cowslip Wine.
To every gallon of water, weigh three pounds of
DOMESTIC COOK Era-.
274
lump-sugar, boil the quantity half an hour, taking off
the scum as it rises. When cool enough, put to it a
crust of toasted bread dipped in thick yeast, let the li-
quor ferment in the tub thirty- six hours; then into the
cask put for every gallon the peel of two and rind of
one lemon, and both of one Seville orange, and one gal-
lon of cowslip-pips, then pour on them the liquor. It
must be carefully stirred every day for a week ; then to
every five gallons put in a bottle of brandy. Let the
cask be close stopped, and stand only six weeks before
you bottle off. Observe to use the best corks.
Elder Wine.
To every quart of berries put two quarts of water, boil
half an hour, run the liquor, and break the fruit through
a hair sieve ; then to every quart of juice, put three
quarters of a pound of Lisbon sugar, coarse, but not the
very coarsest. Boil the whole a quarter of an hour with
some Jamaica peppers, ginger, and a few cloves. Pour
it into a tub, and when of a proper warmth, into the bar-
rel, with toast and yeast to work, which there is more
difficulty to make it do than most other liquors. When
it ceases to hiss, put a quart of brandy to eight gallons,
and stop up. Bottle in the spring or at Christmas.
The liquor must be in a warm place to make it work.
White Elder Wine , very much like Frontiniac.
Boil eighteen pounds of white powder sugar, with six
gallons of water, and two whites of eggs well beaten;
then skim it, and put in a quarter of a peck of elder-
flowers from the tree that bears white berries; don’t
keep them on the fire. When near cold, stir it, and put
in six spoonfuls of lemon-juice, four or five of yeast, and
beat well into flic liquor; stir it every day; put six
pounds of the best raisins, stoned, into the cask, and
tun the wine. Stop it close, and bottle in six months.
When well kept, this wine will pass for Frontiniac.
275
WINES, &C.
Clary Wine.
Boil fifteen gallons of water, with forty-five pounds of
sugar, skim it, when cool put a little to a quarter of a
pint of yeast, and so by degrees add a little more. In
an hour pour the small quantity to the large, pour the
liquor on clary-flowers, picked in the dry; the quan-
tity for the above is twelve quarts. Those who gather
from their own garden may not have sufficient to put in
at once, and may add as they can get them, keeping
account of each quart. When it ceases to hiss, and the
flowers are all in, stop it up for four months. Rack it
off, empty the barrel of the dregs, and adding a gallon
of the best brandy, stop it up, and let it stand six or
eight weeks, then bottle it.
Excellent Raisin Wine.
To every gallon of spring water, put eight pounds
of fresh Smyrnas in a large tub ; stir it thoroughly every
day for a month ; then press the raisins in a horse-hair
bag, as dry as possible; put the liquor into a cask; and
when it has done hissing, pour in a bottle of the best
brandy ; stop it close for twelve months ; then rack it off,
but without the dregs ; filter them through a bag of flan-
nel of three or four folds ; add the clear to the quantity,
and pour one or two quarts of brandy, according to the
size of the vessel. Stop it up, and at the end of three
years, you may either bottle it, or drink it from the
cask.
Raisin wine would be extremely good, if made rich
of the fruit, and kept long, which improves the flavour
greatly.
Raisin Wine with Cyder.
Put two hundred weight of Malaga raisins into a cask,
and pour upon them a hogshead of good sound cyder
that is not rough; stir it well two or three days; stop it,
and let it stand six months; then rack into a cask that
it will fill, and put in a gallon of the best brandy.
276 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
li raisin wine be much used, it would answer well to
keep a cask always for it, and bottle off one year’s wine
just in time to make the next, which, allowing the six
months of infusion, would make the wine to he eighteen
months old. In cyder counties this way is very econo-
mical ; and even if not thought strong enough, the addi-
tion of another quarter of a hundred of raisins would he
sufficient, and the wine would still he very cheap.
When the raisins are pressed through a horse-hair hag,
they will either produce a good spirit by distillation, and
must be sent to a chymist who will do it (but if for that
purpose, they must he very little pressed;) or they will
make excellent vinegar, on which article see page 131.
The stalks should be picked out for the above, and
may he thrown into any cask of vinegar that is making,
being very acid.
Raisin Wine without Cyder.
On four hundred weight of Malagas pour one hogs-
head of spring- water, stir well daily for fourteen days,
then squeeze the raisins in a horse-hair bag in a press,
and tun the liquor; when it ceases to hiss, stop it close.
In six months rack it off into another cask, or into a
tub, and after clearing out the sediment, return it into
the same, hut don’t wash it ; add a gallon of the best
brandy, stop it close, and in six months bottle it.
Take care of the pressed fruit, for the uses of which
refer to the preceding receipt.
Sack Mead.
To every gallon of water put four pounds of honey,
and boil it three quarters of an hour, taking care to
skim it. To every gallon add an ounce of hops ; then
boil it half air hour, and let it stand till next day : put
it into your cask, and to thirteen gallons of the liquor
add a quart of brandy. Let it be lightly stopped till the
fermentation is over, and then stop it very close. If
you make a large cask, keep it a year in cask.
wines, &c. 277
Cowslip Mead.
Put thirty pounds of honey into fifteen gallons of wa-
ter, and boil till one gallon is wasted ; skim it, take it
off the fire, and have ready a dozen and a half of lemons
quartered ; pour a gallon of the liquor boiling hot upon
them ; put the remainder of the liquor into a tub, with
seven pecks of cowslip-pips; let them remain there all
night, and then put the liquor and the lemons to eight
spoonfuls of new yeast, and a handful of sweet briar :
stir all well together, and let it work for three or four
days. Strain it, and put into the cask : let it stand six
months, and then bottle it for keeping.
Imperial.
Put two ounces of cream of tartar, and the juice and
paring of two lemons, into a stone-jar; pour on them
seven quarts of boiling water, stir and cover close.
When cold, sweeten with loaf-sugar, and straining it,
bottle and cork it tight.
This is a very pleasant liquor, and very wholsesome;
but from the latter consideration was at one time drank
in such quantities, as to become injurious. Add, in
bottling, half a pint of rum to the whole quantity.
Ratafia.
Blanch twro ounces of peach and apricot kernels, bruise
and put them into a bottle, and fill nearly up with
brandy. Dissolve half a pound of white sugar-candy in
a cup of cold water, and add to the brandy after it has
stood a month on the kernels, and they are strained
off ; then filter through paper, and bottle for use. The
leaves of peach and nectarines, when the trees are cut
in the spring, being distilled, are an excellent substitute
for ratafia in puddings.
Raspberry Brandy.
Pick fine dry fruit, put into a stone jar, and the jar
into a kettle of water, or on a hot hearth, till the juice
will run; strain, and to every pint add half a pound of
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
278
sugar, give one boil, and skim it; when cold, put equal
quantities of juice and brandy, shake well, and bottle.
Some people prefer it stronger of the brandy.
An excellent Method of making Punch.
Take two large fresh lemons with rough skins, quite
ripe, and some large lumps of double-refined sugar. Rub
the sugar over the lemons till it has absorbed all the yel-
low part of the skins. Then put into the bowl these
lumps and as much more as the juice of the lemons may
be supposed to require; for no certain weight can be
mentioned, as the acidity of a lemon cannot be known
till tried, and therefore this must be determined by the
taste. Then squeeze the lemon-juice upon the sugar;
and with a bruiser press the sugar and the juice particu-
larly well together, for a great deal of the richness and
fine flavour of the punch depends on this rubbing and
mixing process being thoroughly performed. Then mix
this up very well with boiling water (soft water is best)
till the whole is rather cool. When this mixture (which
is now called the sherbet) is to your taste, take brandy
and rum in equal quantities, and put them to it, mixing
the whole well together again. The quantity of liquor
must be according to your taste : two good lemons are
generally enough to make four quarts of punch, includ-
ing a quart of liquor, with half a pound of sugar; but
this depends much on taste, and on the strength of the
spirit.
As the pulp is disagreeable to some persons, the sher-
bet may be strained before the liquor is put in. Some
strain the lemon before they put it to the sugar, which is
improper; as, when the pulp and sugar are well mixed
together, it adds much to the richness of the punch.
When only rum is used, about half a pint of porter
will soften the punch ; and even when both rum and
brandy are used, the porter gives a richness, and to
some a very pleasant flavour.
wines, &c. 279
This receipt has never been in print before, but is
greatly admired amongst the writer’s friends. It is im-
possible to take too much pains in all the processes of
7 niiing, and in minding to do them extremely well, that
all the different articles may be most thoroughly incor-
porated together.
Venter, or Milk Punch,. '
Pare six oranges, and six lemons, as thin as you can,
grate them after with sugar to get the flavour. Steep
the peels in a bottle of rum or brandy stopped close
twenty-four hours. Squeeze the fruit on two pounds of
sugar, add to it four quarts of water, and one of new
milk boiling hot; stir the rum into the above, and run
it through a jelly- bag till perfectly clear. Bottle, and
cork close immediately.
Norfolk Punch.
In twenty quarts of French brandy put the peels of
thirty lemons and thirty oranges, pared so thin that not
the least of the white is left. Iniuse twelve hours.
Have ready thirty quarts of cold water that has boiled;
put to it fifteen pounds of double refined sugar ; and
when well mixed, pour it upon the brandy and peels,
adding the juice of the oranges and of twenty-four le-
mons; mix well; then strain through a very fine hair-
sieve, into a very clean barrel that has held spirits, and
put two quarts of new milk. Stir, and then bung it
close; let it stand six weeks in a warm cellar; bottle the
liquor for use, observing great care that the bottles are
perfectly clean and dry, and the corks of the best qua-
lity, and well put in. This liquor will keep many years,
and improves by age.
Another way. — Pare six lemons and three Seville
oranges very thin, squeeze the juice into a large tea-
pot, put to it two quarts of brandy, one of white wine,
and one of milk, and one pound and a quarter of su-
gar. Let it be mixed, and then covered for twenty-
280 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
four hours, strain through a jelly-bag till clear, then
bottle it.
White Currant Shrub.
Strip the fruit, and prepare in a jar as for jelly ; strain
the juice, of which put two quarts to one gallon of
rum, and two jiounds of lump-sugar; strain through a
jelly-bag.
PART XI.
DAIRY AND POULTRY.
DAIRY.
The servants of each country are generally acquainted
with the best mode of managing the butter and cheese
of that country; but the following hints may not be un-
acceptable, to give information to the mistress.
On the Management of Cows, §0.
Cows should be carefully treated; if their teats are
sore, they should be soaked in warm water twice a day,
and either be dressed with soft ointment, or done with
spirits and water. If the former, great cleanliness is
necessary. The milk, at these times, should be given
to the pigs.
When the milk is brought into the dairy, it should he
strained and emptied into clean pans immediately in
winter, but not till cool in summer. White ware is
preferable, as the red is porous, and cannot be so tho-
roughly scalded.
The greatest possible attention must be paid to great
cleanliness in a dairy; all the utensils, shelves, dressers,
DAIRY.
281
and the flour, should be kept Avith the most perfect
neatness, and cold water thrown over every part very
often. There should be shutters to keep out the sun
and the hot air. Meat hung in a dairy will spoil milk.
The cows should be milked at a regular and early
hour, and the udders emptied, or the quantity will de-
crease. The quantity of milk depends on many causes;
as the goodness, breed, and health of the cow, the pas-
ture, the length of time from calving, the having plenty
of clean water in the field she feeds in, &c. A change
of pasture will tend to increase it. People who attend
properly to the dairy will feed the cows particularly
well two or three weeks before they calve, which makes
the milk more abundant after. In gentlemen’s dairies
more attention is paid to the size and beauty of the
cows than to their produce, which dairymen look most
to.
For making cheese the cows should calve from Lady-
Day to May, that the large quantity of milk may come
into use about the same time; but in gentlemen’s fami-
lies one or two should calve in August or September for
a supply in winter. In good pastures, the average pro-
duce of a dairy is about three gallons a day each cow,
from Lady-Day to Michaelmas, and from thence to
Christmas one gallon a day. Cows will be profitable
milkers to fourteen or fifteen years of age, if of a pro-
per breed.
When a calf is to be reared, it should he taken from
the cow in a week at furthest, or it will cause great
trouble in rearing, because it will be difficult to make
it take milk in a pan. Take it from the cow in the
morning, and keep it without food till the next morn-
ing; and then, being hungry, it will drink without diffi-
culty. Skimmed milk and fresh whey, just as warm as
new milk, should be given twice a day in such quantity
as is required. If milk runs short, smooth gruel mixed
282 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
with milk will do. At first, let the calf be out only by
day, and feed it at night and morning.
When the family is absent, or there is not a great call
for cream, a careful dairy-maid seizes the opportunity
to provide for the winter store : she should have a book
to keep an account, or get some one to write down for
her the produce of every week, and set down what but-
ter she pots. The weight the pot will hold should be
marked on each in making at the pottery. In another
part of the book should be stated the poultry reared i u
onfe leaf, and the weekly consumption in another part.
Observations respecting Cheese.
This well known article differs according to the pas-
ture in which the cows feed. Various modes of prepar-
ing may effect a great deal; and it will be bad or good
of its kind, by being in unskilful hands or the contrary;
but much will still depend on the former circumstance.
The same land rarely makes very fine butter, and re-
markably fine cheese; yet due care may give one pretty
good, where the other excels in quality.
When one is not as fine as the other, attention and
change of method may amend the inferior. There is
usually, however, too much prejudice in the minds of
dairy people, to make them give up an old custom for
one newly recommended. This calls for the eye of the
superior. A gentleman has been at the expense of pro-
curing cattle from every county noted for good cheese,
and it is affirmed that the Cheshire, double Gloucester,
North Wiltshire, Chedder, and many other sorts are so
excellent, as not to discredit their names. As the cows
are all on one estate, it should seem that the mode of
making must be a principal cause of the difference in
flavour; besides, there is much in the size and manner
of keeping.
Cheese made on the same ground, of new, skimmed,
or mixed milk, will differ greatly, not in richness only,
DAIRY.
283
but also iu taste. Those who direct a dairy in a gentle-
man's family, should consider in which way it can he
managed to the best advantage. Even with few cows,
cheeses of value may be made from a tolerable pasture,
by taking the whole of two meals of milk, and propor-
tioning the thickness of the vat to the quantity, rather
than having a wide and flat one, as the former will be
most mellow. The addition of a pound of fresh-made
butter, of a good quality, will cause the cheese made on
poor land to be of a very different quality from that
usually produced by it.
A few cheeses thus made, wheu 'the weather is not
extremely hot, and when the cows are in full feed, will
be very advantageous for the use of the parlour. Cheese
for common family use will be very well produced by
two meals of skim, and one of new milk ; or in good
land, by the skim milk only. Butter likewise should
be made, and potted down for winter use, but not to in-
terfere with the cheese as above, which w'ill not take
much time.
To prepare Rennet to turn the Milk.
Take out the stomach of a calf as soon as killed, and
scour it inside and out with salt, after it is cleared of the
curd always found in it. Let it drain a few hours ; then
sew it up with two good handfuls of salt in it, or stretch
it on a stick well salted ; or keep it in the salt wet, and
soak a bit, which will do over and over by fresh water.
Another way. — Clean the maw as above ; next day
take two quarts of fresh spring-water, and put into it a
handful of haw thorn- tops, a handful of sweet-briar, a
handful of rose-leaves, a stick of cinnamon, forty cloves,
four blades of mace, a sprig of knotted marjoram, and
two large spoonfuls of salt. Let them boil gently to three
pints of water; strain it off ; and when only milk- warm,
pour it on the veil (that is, the maw). Slice a lemon
into it; let it stand two days; strain it again, and bottle
284
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
it for use. It will keep good at least twelve months, and
has a very fine flavour. You may add any sweet aro-
matic herbs to the above. It must be pretty salt, but
not brine. A little will do for turning. Salt the veil
again for a week or two, and dry it stretched on sticks
crossed, and it will be near as strong as ever. Don't
keep it in a hot place when dry.
To make Cheese.
1 ut the milk into a large tub, warming a part till it is
of a degree of heat quite equal to new ; if too hot the
cheese will be tough. Put in as much rennet as will turn
it, and cover it over. Let it stand till completely turned ;
then strike the curd down several times with the skim-
ming dish, and let it separate, still covering it. There
are two modes of breaking the curd; and there will be a
difference in the taste of the cheese, according as either
is observed ; one is, to gather it with the hands very
gently towards the side of the tub, letting the whey pass
through the fingers till it is cleared, and lading it off as
it collects. The other is, to get the whey from it by
early breaking the curd ; the last method deprives it of
many of its oily particles, and is therefore less proper.
Put the vat on a ladder over the tub, and fill it with
curd by the skimmer : press the curd close with your
hand, and add more as it sinks ; and it must be finally
left two inches above the edge. Before the vat is filled,
the cheese-cloth must be laid at the bottom ; and when
full, drawn smooth over on all sides.
1 heie are two modes of salting cheese ; one by mixing
it in the curd while in the tub after the whey is out ; and
the other by putting it in the vat, and crumbling the curd
all to pieces with it, after the first squeezing with the
hands has dried it. The first method appears best on
some accounts, but not on all, and therefore the custom
of the country must direct. Put a board under and
over the vat, and place it in the press : in two hours
DAIRY.
285
turn it out, and put a fresh cheese-cloth ; press it again
for eight or nine hours ; then salt it all over, and turn
it again in the vat, and let it stand in the press four-
teen or sixteen hours, observing to put the cheeses last
made undermost. Before putting them the last time
into the vat, pare the edges if they do not look smooth.
The vat should have holes at the sides and at bottom
to let all the whey pass through. Put on clean boards,
and change and scald them.
To preserve Cheese sound.
Wash in warm whey, when you have any, and wipe
it once a month, and keep it on a rack. If you want
to ripen it, a damp cellar will bring it forward. When
a whole cheese is cqt, the larger quantity should he
spread with butter inside, and the outside wiped, to
preserve it. To keep those in daily use, moist, let a
clean cloth he rung out from cold water, and wrapt
round them when carried from table. Dry cheese may
he used to advantage to grate for serving with macaroni
or eating without. These observations are made with
a view to make the above articles less expensive, as in
most families where much is used there is waste.
To make Sage Cheese.
Bruise the tops of young red sage in a mortar, with
some leaves of spinach, and squeeze the juice ; mix it
with the rennet in the milk, more or less according as
you like for colour and taste. When the curd is come,
break it gently, and put it in with the skimmer, till it is
pressed two inches above one vat. Press it eight or ten
hours. Salt it, and turn every day.
Cream Cheese.
Put five quarts of strippings, that is, the last of the
milk, into a pan, with two spoonfuls of rennet. AVhen
the curd is come, strike it down two or three times with
the skimming-dish just to break it. Let it stand two
hours, then spread a cheese-cloth on a sieve, put the
2S<5
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
curd on it, and let the whey drain ; break the curd a
little with your hand, and put it into a vat with a two
pound weight upon it. Let it stand twelve hours, take
it out, and bind a fillet round. Turn ever}' day till dry,
from one board to another ; cover them with nettles, or
clean dock-leaves, and put between two pewter plates
to ripen. If the weather be warm, it will be ready in
three weeks.
Another. — Have ready a kettle of boiling water, put
five quarts of new milk into a pan, and_/w>e pints of cold
water, and five of hot ; when of a proper heat, put in as
much rennet as will bring it in twenty minutes, likewise
a bit of sugar. When come, strike the skimmer three
or four times down, and leave it on the curd. In an
hour or two lade into the vat without touching it ; put
a two pound weight on it when the whey has run from
it, and the vat is full.
Another sort. — Put as much salt to three pints of raw
cream as shall season it ; stir it well, aud pour it into a
sieve in which you have folded a cheese-cloth three or
four times, and laid at the bottom. When it hardens,
cover it with nettles on a pewter plate.
Rush Cream Cheese.
To a quart of fresh cream put a pint of new milk
warm enough to make the cream a proper warmth, a bit
of sugar, and a little rennet.
Set near the fire till the curd comes ; fill a vat made
in the form of a brick, of wheat-straw or rushes sewed
together. Have ready a square of straw, or rushes
sewed flat, to rest the vat on, and another to cover it ;
the vat being open at top and bottom. Next day take it
out, and change it as above to ripen. A half-pound
weight will be sufficient to put on it.
Another way. — Take a pint of very thick sour cream
from the top of the pan for gathering butter, lav a nap-
kin on two plates, and pour half into each, let them
DAIRY.
287
stand twelve hours, then put them on afresh wet napkin
in one plate, and cover with the same ; this do every
twelve hours until you find the cheese begins to look
dry, then ripen it with nut-leaves ; it will be ready in
ten days.
Fresh nettles, or two pewter plates, will ripen cream-
cheese very well.
Observations respecting Butter.
There is no one article of family consumption more
in use, of greater variety in goodness, or that is of more
consequence to have of a superior quality, than this,
and the economising of which is more necessary. The
sweetness of butter is not affected by the cream being
turned, of which it is made. When cows are in tur-
nips, or eat cabbages, the taste is very disagreeable ;
and the following ways have been tried wTith advantage
to obviate it : —
When the milk is strained into the pans, put to every
six gallons one gallon of boiling water. Or dissolve one
ounce of nitre in a pint of spring- W'ater, and put a quar-
ter of a pint to every fifteen gallons of milk. Or, when
you churn, keep hack a quarter of a pint of the sour
cream, and put it into a well-scalded pot, into which
you are to gather the next cream ; stir that well, and do
so with every fresh addition.
To make Butter.
During summer, skim the milk when the sun has not
heated the dairy ; at that season it should stand for but-
ter twenty-four hours without skimming, and forty-eight
in winter. Deposit the cream-pot in a very cold cellar,
if your dairy is not more so. If you cannot churn daily,
change it into scalded fresh pots ; but never omit churn-
ing twice a week. If possible, put the churn in a tho-
rough air ; and if not a barrel one, set it in a tub of
water two feet deep, which will give firmness to the but-
ter. When the butter is come, pour off the buttermilk,
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
2118
and put the butter into a fresh-scalded pan, or tubs
which have afterwards been in cold water. Pour water
on it, and let it-lie to acquire some hardness before you
work it ; then change the water, and beat it with flat
boards so perfectly that not the least taste of the butter-
milk remain, and that the water, which must be often
changed, shall be quite clear in colour. Then work
some salt into it, weigh, and make it into forms ; throw
them into cold water, in an earthen pan and cover of the
queen’s ware. You will then have very nice and cool
butter in the hottest weather. It requires more working
in hot than in cold weather ; but in neither should be
left with a particle of buttermilk, or a sour taste, as is
sometimes done.
To preserve Butter.
Take two parts of the best common salt, one part
good loaf-sugar, and one part saltpetre ; beat them
well together. To sixteen ounces of butter thoroughly
cleansed from the milk, put one ounce of this composi-
tion ; work it well, and pot down, when become firm and
cold.
The butter thus preserved is the better for keeping,
and should not be used under a month. This article
should be kept from the air, and is best in pots of the
best glazed earth, that will hold from ten to fourteen
pounds each.
To preserve Butter for Winter, the best way.
When the butter has been prepared as above directed,
take two parts of the best common salt, one part of good
loaf-sugar, and one part of saltpetre, beaten and blended
well together. Of this composition put one ounce to
sixteen ounces of butter, and work it well together in a
mass. Press it into the pans after the butter is become
cool ; for friction, though it be not touched by the hands,
will soften it. The pans should hold ten or twelve
pounds each. On the top put some salt ; and when that
DAIRY. 289
is turned to brine, if not enough to cover the butter en-
tirely, add some strong salt and water. It requires only
then to be covered from the dust.
To manage Cream for Whey Butter.
Set the whey one day and night, skim it, and so till
you have enough ; then boil it, and pour it into a pan
or two of cold water. As the cream rises, skim it till
no more comes ; then churn it. Where new-milk cheese
is made dai ly, whey butter for common and present use
may be made to advantage.
To scald Cream, as in the West of England.
In winter let the milk stand twenty-four hours, in the
summer twelve at least ; then put the milk-pan on a
hot hearth, if you have one ; if not, set it in a wide brass
kettle of water large enough to receive the pan. It must
remain on the fire till quite hot, but on no account boil,
or there will be a skin instead of a cream upon the milk.
You will know when done enough, by the undulations
on the surface looking thick, and having a ring round
the pan the size of the bottom. The time required to
■card cream depends on the size of the pan and the heat
of the fire ; the slower the better. Remove the pan into
the dairy when done, and skim it next day. In cold
weather it may stand thirty-six hours, and never less
than two meals.
The butter is usually made in Devonshire of cream
thus prepared, and if properly it is very firm.
Buttermilk,
If made of sweet cream, is a delicious and most whole-
some food. Those who can relish sour buttermilk, find
it still more light ; and it is reckoned more beneficial in
consumptive cases.
Buttermilk, if not very sour, is also as good as cream
to eat with fruit, if sweetened with white sugar, and
mixed with a very little milk. It likewise does equally
T
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
2.00
for cakes and rice-puddings, and of course it is econo-
mical to cliurn before the cream is too stale for any thing
but to feed pigs.
To keep Mills and Cream.
In hot weather, when it is difficult to preserve milk
from becoming sour, and spoiling the cream, it may be
kept perfectly sweet by scalding the new milk very
gently, without boiling, and setting it by in the earthen
dish, or pan that it is done in. This method is pursued
in Devonshire, and for butter, and eating, would equally
answer in small quantities for coffee, tea, &c. Cream
already skimmed may be kept twenty-four hours if
scalded without sugar ; and by adding to it as much
powdered lump-sugar as shall make it pretty sweet, will
be good two days, keeping it in a cool place.
Syrup of Cream
Maybe preserved as above in the proportion of a pound
and a quarter of sugar to a pint of perfectly fresh cream ;
keep it in a cool place two or three hours ; then put it
in one or two ounce phials, and cork it close. It will
keep good thus for several weeks, and will be found
very useful on voyages.
Gallino Curds and Whey, as in Italy.
Take a number of the rough coats that line the giz-
zards of turkies and fowls ; clean them from the pebbles
they contain ; rub them well with salt, and hang them to
dry. This makes a more tender and delicate curd than
common rennet, hen to be used, break off some bits
of the skin, and put on it some boiling water ; in eight
or nine hours use the liquor as you do other rennet.
To choose Butter at Market.
Put a knife into the butter if salt, and smell it when
drawn out; if there is any thing rancid or unpleasant, it
is bad. Being made at different times, the layers in
casks will vary greatly, and you will not easily come at
the goodness but by unhooping the cask, and trying it
POULTRY-YARD. 291
between the staves. Fresh butter ought to smell like a
nosegay, and be of an equal colour all through : if sour
in smell it has not been sufficiently washed ; if veiny
and open, it is probably mixed with staler or an infe-
rior sort.
POULTRY- YARD.
Management of Fowls.
In order to have fine fowls, it is necessary to choose a
good breed, and have proper care taken of them. The
Dartford sort is thought highly of ; and it is desirable to
have a fine large kind, bqf people differ in their opinion
of which is best. The black are very juicy ; but do not
answer so well for boiling, as their legs partake of their
colour. They should be fed as nearly as possible at the
same hour and place. Potatoes boiled, unskinned, in a
little water, and then cut, and either wet with skimmed
milk or not, form one of the best foods. Turkies and
fowls thrive amazingly on them. The milk must not be
sour.
lhe best age for setting a hen, is from two to five
years ; and you should remark which hens make the
best brooders, and keep those to laying who are giddy
and careless of their young. In justice to the animal
creation, however, it must be observed, there are but
few instances of bad parents for the time their nursing
is necessary.
Hens sit twenty days. Convenient places should he
provided for their laying, as these will be proper for sit-
ting likewise. If the hen-house is not secured from ver-
min, the eggs will be sucked, and the fowls destroyed.
Those hens are usually preferred which have tufts of
feathers on their heads ; those that crow are not looked
upon as profitable. Some fine young fowls should be
reared every year, to keep up a stock of good breeders ;
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
2.92
and by this attention, and removing bad layers and care-
less nurses, you will have a chance of a good stock.
Let the hens lay some time before you set them, which
should be done from the end of February to the begin-
ning of May. While hens are laying, feed them well,
and sometimes with oats.
Broods of chickens are hatched all through the sum-
mer, but those that come out very late require much
care till they have gained some strength.
If the eggs of any other sort are put under a hen with
some of her own, observe to add her own as many days
after the others, as there is a difference in the length of
their sitting. A turkey and duck sit thirty days. Choose
large clear eggs to put her upon, and such a number as
she can properly cover. If very large eggs, there are
sometimes two yolks, and of course neither will be pro-
ductive. Ten or twelve are quite enough.
A hen-house should be large and high ; and should be
frequently cleaned out, or the vermin of fowls will in-
crease greatly. But hens must not be disturbed while
sitting; for if frightened, they sometimes forsake their
nests. Wormwood and rue should be planted plentifully
about their houses : boil some of the former, and sprin-
kle it about the floor; which should be of smooth earth,
not paved. The windows of the house should be open
to the rising sun ; and a hole must be left at the door,
to let the smaller fowls go in; the larger may be let in
and out by opening the door. There should be a small
sliding board to shut down when the fowls are gone to
roost; which would prevent the small beasts of prey
from committing ravages, and a good strong door and
lock may possibly, in some measure, prevent the depre-
dations of human enemies.
When some of the chickens are hatched long-before
the others, it may be necessary to keep them in a basket
of wool till the others come forth. The day after they
POULTRY-YARD.
293
are hatched, give them some crumbs of white bread, and
small (or rather cracked) grits soaked in milk. As soon
as they have gained a little strength, feed them with
curd, cheese-parings cut small, or any soft food, but
nothing sour; and give them clean water twice a day.
Keep the hen under a pen till the young have strength
to follow her about, which will be in two or three weeks ;
and be sure to feed her well.
The food of fowls goes first into their crop, which
softens it; and then passes into the gizzard, which by
constant friction macerates it ; and this is facilitated by
small stones, which are generally found there, and which
help to digest the food. *
If a sitting hen is troubled with vermin, let her be
well washed with a decoction of wild lupins. The
pip in fowls is occasioned by drinking dirty water, or
taking filthy food. A white thin scale on the tongue,
is the symptom. Pull the scale off with your nail, and
rub the tongue with some salt; and the complaint will
be removed.
It answers well to pay some boy employed in the farm
or stable, so much a score for the eggs he brings in. It
will be his interest then to save them from being pur-
loined, which nobody but one in his situation can pre-
vent; and sixpence or eightpence a score will be buying
eggs cheap.
To make Hens lay.
Dissolve an ounce of Glauber’s salts in a quart of
water; mix the meal of potatoes with a little of the li-
quor, and feed the hens two days, giving them plenty of
clean water to drink. The above quantity is sufficient
for six or eight hens. They should have plenty of clean
water in reach. In a few days they will produce eggs.
To fatten Fowls or Chickens in four or five Days.
Set rice over the fire with skimmed milk, only as
much as will serve one day. Let it boil till the rice is
294
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
quite swelled out : you may add a tea-spoonful or two
of sugar, but it will do well without. Feed them three
times a day, in common pans, giving them only as much
as will quite fill them at once. When you put fresh, let
the pans be set in water, that no sourness may be
conveyed to the fowls, as that prevents them from fat-
tening. Give them clean water, or the milk of the rice,
to drink ; but the less wet the latter is when perfectly
soaked, the better. By this method the flesh will have
a clear whiteness which no other food gives; and when
it is considered how far a pound of rice will go, and how
much time is saved by this mode, it will be found to be
as cheap as barley-meal, or more so. The pen should
be daily cleaned, and no food given for sixteen hours
before poultry be killed.
To choose Eggs at Market, and preserve them.
Put the large end of the egg to your tongue ; if it feels
warm it is new. In new-laid eggs, there is a small divi-
sion of the skin from the shell, which is filled with air,
and is perceptible to the eye at the end. On looking
through them against the sun or a candle, if fresh, eggs
will be pretty clear. If they shake they are not fresh.
Eggs may be bought cheapest when the hens first be-
gin to lay in the spring, before they sit ; in Lent and at
Easter they become dear. They may be preserved fresh
by dipping them in boiling water and instantly taking
them out, or by oiling the shell ; either of which wavs
is to prevent the air passing through it : or kept on
shelves with small holes to receive one in each, and be
turned every other day ; or close-packed in a keg, and
covered with strong lime-water.
Feathers.
In towns, poultry being usually sold ready picked, the
feathers, which may occasionally come in in small quan-
tities, are neglected ; but orders should be given to put
them into a tub free from damp, and as they dry to
POULTRY-YARD.
change them into paper hags, a few in each ; they should
hang in a dry kitchen to season ; fresh ones must not be
added to those in part dried, or they will occasion a musty
smell, but they should go through the same process. In
a few months they will be tit to add to beds, or to make
pillows, without the usual mode of drying them in a cool
oven, which may be pursued if they are wanted before
five or six months.
Ducks
Generally begin to lay in the month of February. Their
eggs should be daily taken away except one, till they
seem inclined to sit ; then leave them and see that there
are enough. They require no attention while sitting,
except to give them food at the time they come out to
seek it ; and there should be water placed at a moderate
distance from them, that their eggs may not be spoiled
by their long absence in seeking it. Twelve or thirteen
eggs are enough : in an early season it is best to set them
under a hen ; and then they can be kept from water till
they have a little strength to bear it, which in very cold
weather they cannot do so well. They should be put
under cover, especially in a wet season ; for though wa-
ter is the natural element of ducks, yet they are apt to
be killed by the cramp before they are covered with
feathers to defend them.
Ducks should be accustomed to feed and rest at one
place, which would prevent their straggling too far to
lay. Places near the water to lay in are advantageous ;
and these might be small wooden houses, with a parti-
tion in the middle, and a door at each end. They eat
any thing ; and when to be fattened, must have plenty,
however coarse, and in three weeks they will be fat.
Geese
Require little expense ; as they chiefly support them-
selves on commons or in lanes, where they can get water.
The largest are esteemed best, as also are the white and
— '6 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
grey. The pied and dark-coloured are not so good.
Thirty days is generally the time the goose sits, but in
warm weather she -will sometimes hatch sooner. Give
them plenty of food, such as scalded bran and light oats;
and as soon as the goslings are hatched, keep them
housed for eight or ten days, and feed them with barley-
meal, bran, curds, &c. For green geese, begin to fatten
them at six or seven weeks old, and feed them as
above. Stubble geese require no fattening if they have
the run of good fields.
Turkies
Are very tender when young. As soon as hatched, put
three pepper-corns down their throat. Great care is
necessary to their well-being, because the hen is so care-
less that she will walk about with one chick, and leave
the remainder, or even tread upon and kill them. Tur-
kies are violent eaters ; and must therefore be left to
take charge of themselves in general, except one good
feed a day. The ben sits twenty-five or thirty days ;
and the young ones must be kept warm, as the least
cold or damp kills them. They must be fed often; and
at a distance from the hen, who will eat every thing
liom them. They should have curds, green cheese-
parings cut small, and bread and milk with chopped
wormwood in it ; and their drink milk and water, but
not left to be sour. All young fowls are a prey for ver-
min, therefore they should be kept in a safe place where
none can come ; weasels, stots, ferrets, &c. creep in at
very small crevices.
Let the hen be under a coop, in a warm place exposed
to the sun, for the first three or four weeks ; and the
young should not be suffered to go out in the dew at
morning or evening. Twelve eggs are enough to put
under a turkey ; and when she is about to lay, lock her
up till she has laid every morning. They usually begin
to lay in March, and sit in April. Feed them near the
POULTRY-YARD.
297
hen-house ; and give them a little meat in the evening,
to accustom them to roosting there. Fatten them with
sodden oats or barley for the first fortnight ; and the last
fortnight give them as above, and rice swelled with warm
milk over the fire, twice a day. The flesh will be beau-
tifully white and fine-flavoured. The common way is
to cram them, but they are so ravenous that it seems un-
necessary, if they are not suffered to go far from home,
which makes them poor.
Pea Fowl.
Feed them as you do turkies. They are so shy that
they are seldom found for some days after hatching : and
it is very wrong to pursue them, as many ignorant people
do, in the idea of bringing them home ; for it only causes
the hen to carry the young ones through dangerous
places, and by hurrying she treads upon them. The
cock kills all the young chickens he can get at, by one
blow on the centre of the head with his bill ; and he
does the same by his own brood before the feathers of
the crown come out. Nature therefore impels the lieu
to keep them out of his way till the feathers rise.
Guinea Hens
Lay a great number of eggs ; and if you can discover
the nest, it is best to put them under common hens, which
are better nurses. They require great warmth, quiet,
and careful feeding with rice swelled with milk, or bread
soaked in it. Put two pepper-corns down their throat
when first hatched.
Pigeons
Bring two young ones at a time ; and breed every month,
if well looked after, and plentifully fed. They should
be kept very clean, and the bottom of the dove-cote be
strewed with sand once a month at least. Tares and
white peas are their proper food. They should have
plenty of fresh water in their house. Starlings and
other birds are apt to come among them, and suck the
DOMESTIC COOK Ull Y.
298
eggs. Vermin likewise are their great enemies, and
destroy them. If the breed should be too small, put a
few tame pigeons of the common kind, and of their own
colour, among them. Observe not to have too large a
proportion of cock-birds ; for they are quarrelsome, and
will soon thin the dove-cote.
Pigeons are fond of salt, and it keeps them in health.
Lay a large heap of clay near the house ; and let the
salt-brine that may be done with in the family be poured
upon it.
Bay-salt and cummin-seeds mixed is an universal re-
medy for the diseases of pigeons. The backs and breasts
are sometimes scabby : in which case, take a quarter of
a pound of bay-salt, and as much common salt; a pound
of fennel-seeds, a pound of dill-seed, as much cummin-
seed, and an ounce of assafoetida ; mix all with a little
wheaten flour, and some fine worked clay ; when all are
well beaten together, put it into two earthen pots, and
bake them in the oven. When cold, put them on the
table in the dove-cote ; the pigeons will eat it, and thus
be cured.
Rabbits.
The wild ones have the finest flavour, unless great
care is taken to keep the tame delicately clean. The
tame one brings forth every month, and must be allow-
ed to go with the buck as soon as she has kindled. The
sweetest hay, oats, beans, sow-thistle, parsley, carrot-
tops, cabbage-leaves, and bran, fresh and fresh, should
be given to them. If not very well attended, their
stench will destroy themselves, and be very unwhole-
some to all who live near them; but attention will pre-
vent this inconvenience.
SICK COOKERY.
209
PART XII.
COOKERY FOR THE SICK, AXD FOR THE
POOR.
SICK COOKERY.
General Remarks.
The following pages will contain cookery for the sick ;
it being of more consequence to support those whose had
appetite will not allow them to take the necessary nou-
rishment, than to stimulate that of persons in health.
It may not be unnecessary to advise that a choice be
made of the things most likely to agree with the patient;
that a change be provided ; that some one at least be
always ready; that not too much of those be made at
once, which are not likely to keep, as invalids require
variety ; and that they should succeed each other in dif-
ferent forms and flavours.
A dear Broth that will keep long.
Put the mouse round of beef, a knuckle bone of veal,
and a few shanks of mutton, into a deep pan, and cover
close with a dish or coarse crust ; bake till the beef is
done enough for eating, with only as much water as
will cover. When cold, cover it close in a cool place.
When to be used, give what flavour may be approved.
A quick made Broth.
Take a bone or two of a neck or loin of mutton, take
off the fat and skin, set it on the fire in a small tin sauce-
pan that has a cover, with three quarters of a pint of
water, the meat being first beaten, and cut in thin bits;
put a bit of thyme and parsley, and, if approved, a slice
of onion. Let it boil very quick, skim it nicely, take
off the cover, if likely to be too weak ; else cover it.
Half an hour is sufficient for the whole process.
DOMESTIC COOKERT.
A very supporting Broth against any kind of weakness.
Boil two pounds of loin of mutton, with a very large
handful of chervil, in two quarts of water, to one. Take
oft part of the fat. Any other herb or roots may be
added. Take half a pint three or four times a day.
A very nourishing Veal Broth.
Put the knuckle of a leg or shoulder of veal, with very
little meat to it, an old fowl, and four shank bones of
mutton extremely well soaked and bruised, three blades
of mace, ten pepper-corns, an onion, and a large hit of
bread, and three quarts of water, into a stew-pot that
covers close, and simmer in the slowest manner after it
has boiled np, and been skimmed ; or bake it ; strain,
and take off the fat. Salt as wanted. It will require
four hours.
Broth of Beef, Mutton, and Veal.
Put two pounds of lean beef, one pound of scrag ot
veal, one pound of scrag of mutton, sweet herbs, and ten
pepper-corns, into a nice tin sauce-pan, with five quarts
of water: simmer to three quarts; and clear from the
fat when cold. Add one onion if approved.
Soup and broth made of different meats, are more
supporting, as well as better flavoured.
To remove the fat, take it off when cold as clean as
possible; and if there be still any remaining, lay a bit
of clean blotting or cap paper on the broth when in the
basin, and it will take up every particle.
Calves' Feet Broth.
Boil two feet in three quarts of water to half; strain
and set it by; when to be used, take off the fat, put a
large tea-cupful of the jelly into a sauce-pan, with half a
glass of sweet wine, a little sugar and nutmeg, and heat
^ up till it be ready to boil, then take a little of it, and
beat by degrees to the yolk of an egg, and adding a bit
of butter, the size of an nutmeg, stir it all together, but
don t let it boil. Grate a bit of fresh lemon-peel into it.
SICK COOKEItY.
301
Another. — Boil two calves’ feet, two ounces of veal,
and two of beef, the bottom of a penny-loaf, two or
three blades of mace, half a nutmeg sliced, and a little
salt, in three quarts of water, to three pints; strain, and
take off the fat.
Chicken Broth.
Put the body and legs of the fowl that chicken-pana-
da wras made of, as in page 303, after taking off the skin
and rump, into the water it was boiled in, with one
blade of mace, one slice of onion, and ten white pepper-
corns. Simmer till the broth be of a pleasant flavour
If not water enoughs add a little. Beat a quarter of
an ounce of sweet almonds with a tea-spoonful of wa-
ter, fine, boil it in the broth, strain, and when cold, re-
move the fat.
Eel Broth.
Clean half a pound of small eels, and set them on with
three pints of water, some parsley, one slice of onion, a
few pepper-corns; let them simmer till the eels are bro-
ken, and the broth good.
The above should make three half-pints of broth.
Tench Broth.
Make as eel broth above. They are both very nutri-
tious, and light of digestion.
Beef Tea.
Cut a pound of fleshy beef in thin slices ; simmer
with a quart of water twenty minutes, after it has once
boiled, and been skimmed. Season, if approved ; but
it has generally only salt.
Dr. Ratcliff's restorative Pork-jelly.
Take a leg of well-fed pork, just as cut up, beat it,
and break the bone. Set it over a gentle fire, with three
gallons of water, and simmer to one. Let half an ounce
of mace, and the same of nutmegs, stew in it. Strain
through a fine sieve. When cold, take off the fat. Give
SftO
ou" domestic cookery.
a <i0C0latie CUP the first and last thing, and at noon
putting salt to taste.
Shank Jelly.
Soak twelve shanks of mutton four hours, then brush
and scour them very clean. Lay them in a sauce-pan
t i thiee blades o f mace, an onion, twenty Jamaica
and thirty or forty black peppers, a buck of sweet
erbs and a crust of bread made very brown by toast-
ing. Pour three quarts of water to them, and set them
on a hot hearth close covered ; let them simmer as genii v
as possible for five hours, then strain it off, and put it
in a cold place. 1
This may have the addition of a pound of beef, if ap-
proved, for flavour. It is a remarkably good thing for
people who are weak.
Arrow-root Jelly.
Of this beware of having the wrong sort, for it has
been counterfeited with bad effect. If genuine, it is
very nourishing, especially for weak bowels. Put into
a sauce-pan half a pint of water, a glass of sherry or a
spoonful of brandy, grated nutmeg, and fine sugar; boil
once up, then mix it by degrees into a desert-spoonful
of arrow-root, previously rubbed smooth, with two
spoonfuls of cold water; then return the whole into the
sauce-pan; stir aud boil it three minutes.
Tapioca Jelly.
Choose the largest sort, pour cold water on to wash
it two or three times, then soak it in fresh water five or
six hours, and simmer it in the same until it become
quite clear; then put lemon-juice, wine, and sugar.
ie peel should have been boiled in it. It thickens
very much.
Gloucester Jelly.
ake lice, sago, pearl-barley, hartshorn shavings, and
enngo-root, each an ounce; simmer with three pints of
"ater to one, and strain it. When cold it will be a
sick cook liar.
503
jelly; of which give, dissolved in wine, milk, or broth,
in change with other nourishment.
Panada, made in jive minutes.
Set a little water on the tire with a glass of white
wine, some sugar, and a scrape of nutmeg and lemon-
peel ; meanwhile grate some crumbs of bread. 1 he
moment the mixture boils up, keeping it still on the
fire, put the crumbs in, and let it boil as fast as it can.
When of a proper thickness just to drink, take it oft.
Another. — Make as above, but instead of a glass of
wine, put in a tea-spoontul of rum, and a bit of butter;
sugar as above. Thi is a most pleasant mess.
Another. — Put to the water a bit of lemon-peel, mix
the crumbs in, and when nearly boiled enough, put
some lemon or orange-syrup. Observe to boil all the
ingredients ; for if any be added after, the panada will
break, and not jelly.
Chicken Panada.
Boil it till about three parts ready, in a quart of wa-
ter, take off the skin, cut the white meat off when cold,
and put into a marble mortar: pound it to a paste with
a little of the water it was boiled in, season with a little
salt, a grate of nutmeg, and the least bit of lemon peel.
Boil gently for a few minutes to the consistency you
like ; it should be such as you can drink, though tole-
rably thick.
This conveys great nourishment in small compass.
Sippets, when the Stomach will not receive meat.
On an extreme hot plate put two or three sippets of
bread, and pour over them some gravy from beef, mut-
ton, or veal, if there is no butter in the dish. Sprinkle
a little salt over.
Eggs.
An egg broken into a cup of tea, or beaten and mixed
with a basin of milk, makes a breakfast more support-
ing than tea solely.
'5U4 DOMESTIC COOKKRV.
^ n eSS divided, and the yolk and white beaten sepa-
rately, then mixed with a glass of wine, will afford two
very wholesome draughts, and prove lighter than when
taken together.
Eggs very little boiled, or poached, taken in small
quantity, convey much nourishment ; the yolk only,
when dressed, should be eaten by invalids.
A great Restorative.
Bake two calves’ feet in two pints of water, and the
same quantity of new milk, in a jar close covered, three
hours and a half. When cold remove the fat.
Give a large tea-cupful the last and first thing. What-
ever flavour is approved, give it by baking in it lemon-
peel, cinnamon, or mace. Add sugar after.
Another.—- Simmer six sheep’s trotters, two blades of
mace, a little cinnamon, lemon-peel, a few hartshorn
shavings, and a little isinglass, in two quarts of water to
one ; when cold, take off the fat, and give near half a
pint twice a day, warming with it a little new milk.
Another. Boil one ounce of isinglass-shavings, forty
Jamaica peppers, and a bit of brown crust of bread, in
a quart of water to a pint, aud strain it.
This makes a pleasant jelly to keep in the house ; of
which a large spoonful may be taken in wine and water,
milk, tea, soup, or any way.
Another, a most pleasant Draught. — Boil a quarter of
an ounce of isinglass-shavings with a pint of new milk,
to half ; add a bit of sugar, and, for change, a bitter
almond.
Give this at bed-time, not too warm.
Dutch flummery, blatnange, and jellies, as directed
in pages 202, 204, and 213, or less rich according to
judgment.
Candle.
Make a fine smooth gruel of half-grits; strain it when
boiled well, stir it at times till cold. Wdien to be used,
SICK COOKERY.
305
add sugar, -wine, and lemon-peel, with nutmeg. Some
like a spoonful of brandy besides the wine; others like
lemon-juice.
Another. — Boil up half a pint of fine gruel, with a bit
of butter the size of a large nutmeg, a large spoonful of
brandy, the same of white wine, one of capillaire, a bit
of lemon-peel and nutmeg.
Another. — Into a pint of fine gruel, not thick, put
while it is boiling hot, the yolk of an egg beaten with
sugar, and mixed with a large spoonful of cold water, a
glass of wine, and nutmeg. Mix by degrees. It is very
agreeable and nourishing/ Some like gruel, with a glass
of table beer, sugar, &c. with or without a tea-spoonful
of brandy.
Cold Caudle.
Boil a quart of spring- water; when cold, add the yolk
of an egg, the juice of a small lemon, six spoonfuls of
sweet wine, sugar to your taste, and syrup of lemons
one ounce.
A Flour Caudle.
Into five large spoonfuls of the purest water rub
smooth one desert-spoonful of fine flour. Set over the
fire five spoonfuls of new milk, and put two bits of su-
gar into it ; the moment it boils, pour into it the flour
and water; and stir it over a slow fire twenty minutes.
It is a nourishing and gently astringent food. This is an
excellent food for babies who have wehk bowels.
Rice Caudle.
When the water boils, pour into it some grated rice
mixed with a little cold water; when of a proper con-
sistence, add sugar, lemon-peel, and cinnamon, and a
glass of brandy to a quart. Boil all smooth.
Another. — Soak some Carolina rice in water an hour,
strain it, and put two spoonfuls of the rice into a pint
and a quarter of milk; simmer till it will pulp through
u
306
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
a sieve, then put the pulp and milk into the sauce-pan,
■with a bruised clove and a bit of white sugar. Simmer
ten minutes ; if too thick, add a spoonful or two of
milk; and serve with thin toast.
To mull Wine.
Boil some spice in a little water till the flavour is
gained, then add an equal quantity of port, some sugar
and nutmeg; boil together, and serve with toast.
Another way. — Boil a bit of cinnamon and some grated
nutmeg a few minutes, in a large tea-cupful of water ;
then pour to it a pint of port wine, and add sugar to
your taste : heat it up, and it will be ready.
Or it may be made of good British wine.
To make Coffee.
Put two ounces of fresh ground coffee, of the best
quality, into a coffee pot, and pour eight coffee cups of
boiling water on it; let it boil six minutes, pour out a
cupful two or three times, and return it again ; then put
two or three isinglass-cliips into it, and pour one large
spoonful of boiling water on it ; boil it five minutes
more, and set the pot by the fire to keep hot for ten
minutes, and you will have coffee of a beautiful clear-
ness.
Fine cream should always be served with coffee, and
either pounded sugar-candy, or fine Lisbon sugar.
If for foreigners, or those who like it extremely strong,
make only eight dishes from three ounces. If not fresh
roasted, lay it before a fire until perfectly hot and dry;
or you may put the smallest bit of fresh butter into a
preserving pan of a small size, and, when hot, throw
the coflee in it, and toss it about until it be freshened,
letting it be cold before ground.
Coffee Milk.
Boil a desert- spoonful of ground coffee, in nearly a
pint of milk, a quarter of an hour; then put into it a
shaving or two of isinglass, and clear it ; let it boil a
SICK COOKERY. 307
few minutes, and set it on the side of the fire to grow
fine.
This is a very fine breakfast; it should be sweetened
with real Lisbon sugar of a good quality.
Chocolate.
Those who use much of this article, will find the fol-
lowing mode of preparing it both useful and econo-
mical :
Cut a cake of chocolate in very small bits ; put a pint
of water into the pot, and, when it boils, put in the
above ; mill it off the fire until quite melted, then on a
gentle fire till it boil: pour it into a basin, and it will
keep in a cool place eight or ten days, or more. When
wanted, put a spoonful or two into milk, boil it with
sugar, and mill it well.
This, if not made thick, is a very good breakfast or
supper.
Patent Cocoa
Is a light wholesome breakfast.
Saloop.
Boil a little water, wine, lemon-peel, and sugar, to-
gether : then mix with a small quantity of the powder,
previously rubbed smooth, with a little cold water; stir
it all together, and boil it a few minutes.
Milk Porridge.
Make a fine gruel of half-grits, long boiled; strain
off ; either add cold milk, or warm with milk, as may
be approved. Serve with toast.
French Milk Porridge.
Stir some oatmeal and water together, let it stand to
be clear, and pour off the latter; pour fresh upon it, stir
it well, let it stand till next day ; strain through a fine
sieve, and boil the water, adding milk while doing.
The proportion of water must be small.
This is much ordered, with toast for the breakfast of
weak persons, abroad.
308
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Ground Rice Milk.
Boil one spoonful of ground rice, rubbed down
smooth, with three half pints of milk, a bit of cinna-
mon, lemon-peel, and nutmeg. Sweeten when nearly
done.
Sago.
To prevent the earthy taste, soak it in cold water an
hour ; pour that off, and wash it well ; then add more,
and simmer gently till the berries are clear, with lemon-
peel and spice, if approved. Add wine and sugar, and
boil all up together.
Sago Milk.
Cleanse as above, and boil it slowlv and wholly with
new milk. It swells so much, that a small quantity
will be sufficient for a quart, and when done it will be
diminished to about a pint. It requires no sugar or
flavouring.
Asses' Milk
Far surpasses any imitation of it that can be made. It
should be milked into a glass that is kept warm by be-
ing in a basin of hot water.
The fixed air that it contains gives some people a pain
in the stomach. At first a tea-spoonful of rum may be
taken with it, but should only be put in the moment it
is to be swallowed.
Artificial Asses' Milk.
Boil together a quart of water, a quart of new milk, an
ounce of white sugar-candy, half an ounce of eringo-
root, and half an ounce of conserve of roses, till half be
wasted.
This is astringent ; therefore proportion the doses to
the effect, and the quantity to what will be used while
sweet.
Another. — Mix two spoonfuls of boiling water, two of
milk, and an egg well beaten ; sweeten with pounded
SICK COOKERY.
309
white sugar-candy. This may be taken twice or thrice
a day.
Another. — Boil two ounces of hartshorn-shavings, two
ounces of pearl-barley, two ounces of candied eringo-
root, and one dozen of snails that have been bruised, in
two quarts of water, to one. Mix with an equal quan-
tity of new milk, when taken, twice a day.
Water Gruel.
Put a large spoonful of oatmeal by degrees into a pint
of water, and when smooth, boil it.
Another way. — Rub smooth a large spoonful of oat-
meal, with two of water, and put it into a pint of water
boiling on the tire ; stir it well, and boil it quick, but
take care it does not boil over. In a quarter of an hour
strain it off; and add salt and a bit of butter when eaten.
Stir until the butter be incorporated.
Barley Gruel.
Wash four ounces of pearl-barley, boil it in two
quarts of water and a stick of cinnamon, till reduced to
a quart ; strain, and return it into the sauce-pan with
sugar, and three quarters of a pint of port wine. Heat
up, and use as wanted.
A very agreeable Drink.
Into a tumbler of fresh cold water, pour a table-
spoonful of capillaire, and the same of good vinegar.
Tamarinds, currants fresh or in jelly, or scalded cur-
rants or cranberries, make excellent drinks ; with a little
sugar, or not, as may be agreeable.
A refreshing Drink in a Fever.
Put a little tea-sage, two sprigs of balm, and a little
wood-sorrel, into a stoue jug, having first washed and
dried them ; peel thin a small lemon, and clear from the
white ; slice it, and put a bit of the peel in, then pour
in three pints of boiling water, sweeten, and cover it
close.
Another Drink. — Wash extremely well an ounce of
310
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
pearl-barley; shift it twice, then put to it three pints of
water, an ounce of sweet almonds beaten fine, and a bit
of lemon-peel ; boil till you have a smooth liquor, then
put in a little syrup of lemons and capillaire.
Another. — Boil three pints of water with an ounce and
a half of tamarinds, three ounces of currants, and two
ounces of stoned raisins, till near a third be consumed.
Strain it on a bit of lemon-peel, which remove in an
hour, as it gives a bitter taste if left long.
A most pleasant Drink.
Put a tea-cupful of cranberries into a cup of water, and
mash them. In the mean time boil two quarts of water
with one large spoonful of oatmeal and a bit of lemon-
peel ; then add the cranberries, and as much fine Lis-
bon sugar as shall leave a smart flavour of the fruit; and
a quarter of a pint of sherry, or less, as may be proper;
boil all for half an hour, and strain off.
Soft and fine Draught for those who are weak and have
a Cough.
Beat a fresh laid egg, and mix it with a quarter of a
pint of new milk warmed, a large spoonful of capillaire,
the same of rose-water, and a little nutmeg scraped.
Don’t warm it after the egg is put in. Take it the first
and last thing.
Toast and Water.
Toast slowly a thin piece of bread till extremely
brown and hard, but not the least black ; then plunge
it into a jug of cold water, and cover it over an hour
before used. This is of particular use in weak bowels.
It should be of a fine brown colour before drinking it.
Barley Water.
Wash a handful of common barley, then simmer it
gently in three pints of water with a bit of lemon-peel.
This is less apt to nauseate than pearl-barley; but the
other is a very pleasant drink.
Another way. — Boil an ounce of pearl-barley a few
SICK COOKERY. 31 1
minutes to cleanse, then put on it a quart of water, sim-
mer an hour; when half done, put into it a bit of fresh
lemon-peel, and one bit of sugar. If likely to be too
thick, you may put another quarter of a pint of water.
Lemon-juice may be added if chosen.
Lemon Water, a delightful Drink.
Put two slices of lemon thinly pared into a tea-pot, a
little bit of the peel, and a bit of sugar, or a large spoon-
ful of capillaire ; pour in a pint of boiling water, and
stop it close two hours.
Apple Water.
Cut two large apples in slices, and pour a quart of
boiling water on them; or on roasted apples; strain in
two or three hours, and sweeten lightly.
Raspberry Vinegar Water.
(See page 250.) This is one of the most delightful
drinks that can be made.
Whey.
That of cheese is a very wholesome drink, especially
when the cows are in fresh herbage.
White Wine Whey.
Put half a pint of new milk on the fire ; the moment
it boils up, pour in as much sound raisin wine as will
completely turn it, and it looks clear ; let it boil up, then
set the sauce- pan aside till the curd subsides, and do not
stir it. Pour the whey off, and add to it half a pint of
boiling water, and a bit of white sugar. I bus you will
have a whey perfectly cleared of milky particles, and as
weak as you choose to make it.
Vinegar and Lemon Wheys.
Pour into boiling milk as much vinegar or lemon-
juice as will make a small quantity quite clear, dilute
with hot water to an agreeable smart acid, and put a bit
or two of sugar. This is less heating than if made of
wine ; and if only to excite perspiration, answers as
well.
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Buttermilk , with Bread or without.
It is most wholesome when sour, as being less likely
to he heavy ; but most agreeable when made of sweet
cream.
Dr. Boerhaave's sweet Buttermilk.
lake the milk from the cow into a small churn, of
about six shillings price ; in about ten minutes begin
churning, and continue till the flakes of butter swim
about pretty thick, and the milk is discharged of all the
grepsy particles, and appears thin and blue. Strain it
through a sieve, and drink it as frequently as possible.
It should form the whole of the patient’s drink, and
the food should be biscuits and rusks, in every way and
sort; ripe and dried fruits of various kinds, when a de-
cline is apprehended.
Baked and dried fruits, raisins in particular, make
excellent suppers for invalids, with biscuits, or common
cake.
Orgeat.
Beat two ounces of almonds with a tea-spoonful of
orange-flower water, and a bitter almond or two; then
pour a quart of milk and water to the paste. Sweeten
with sugar, or capillaire. This is a fine drink for those
who have a tender chest ; and in the gout it is highly
useful, and, with the addition of half an ounce of gum
arabic, has been found to allay the painfulness of the
attendant heat. Half a glass of brandy may be added
if thought too cooling in the latter complaints, and the
glass of orgeat may be put into a basin of warm water.
Another orgeat, for company, is in page 248.
Orangeade, or Lemonade.
Squeeze the juice ; pour boiling water on a little of
the peel, and cover close. Boil water and sugar to a
tnin syrup, and skim it. When all are cold, mix the
juice, the infusion, and the syrup, with as much more
water as will make a rich sherbet; strain through a jelly-
COOKERY FOR THE POOR. 313
bag. Or squeeze the juice, and strain it, and add water
and capillaire.
Egg Wine.
Beat an egg, mix with it a spoonful of cold water; set
on the fire a glass of white wine, half a glass of water,
sugar, and nutmeg. When it boils, pour a little of it
to the egg by degrees, till the whole be in, stirring it
well ; then return the whole into the sauce-pan, put it on
a gentle fire, stir it one way for not more than a minute ;
for if it boil, or the egg be stale, it will curdle. Serve
with toast.
Egg wine may be made as above, without warming
the egg, and it is then lighter on the stomach, though
not so pleasant to the taste.
COOKERY FOR THE POOR.
General Remarks and Hints.
I promised a few hints, to enable every family to as-
sist the poor of their neighbourhood at a very trivial ex-
pense ; and these may be varied or amended at the dis-
cretion of the mistress.
Where cows are kept, a jug of skimmed milk is a va-
luable present, and a very common one.
When the oven is hot, a large pudding may be baked,
and given to a sick or young family ; and thus made,
the trouble is little : — Into a deep coarse pan put half a
pound of rice, four ounces of coarse sugar or treacle,
two quarts of milk, and two ounces of dripping; set it
cold into the oven. It will take a good while, but be
an excellent solid food.
A very good meal may be bestowed in a thing called
brewis, which is thus made Cut a very thick upper
crust of bread, and put it into the pot where salt beef is
boiling and near ready; it will attract some of the fat,
and, when swelled out, will be no unpalatable dish to
those who rarely taste meat.
314 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
A baked Soup. »
Put a pound of any kind of meat cut in slices ; two
onions, two carrots, ditto ; two ounces of rice, a pint
of split peas, or whole ones if previously soaked, pep-
per and salt, into an earthen jug or pan, and pour one
gallon of water. Cover it very close, and bake it with
the bread.
The cook should be charged to save the boiling of
every piece of meat, ham, tongue, &c. however salt :
as it is easy to use only a part of that, and the rest of
fresh water, and, by the addition of more vegetables, the
bones of the meat used in the family, the pieces of meat
that come from table on the plates, and rice, Scotch
barley, or oatmeal, there will be some gallons of nu-
tritious soup two or three times a week. The bits of
meat should be only warmed in the soup, and remain
whole ; the bones, &c. boiled till they yield their nou-
rishment. If the things are ready to put in the boiler as
soon as the meat is served, it will save lighting fire, and
second cooking.
Take turnips, carrots, leeks, potatoes, the outer leaves
of lettuce, celery, or any sort of vegetable that is at
hand; cut them small, and throw in with the thick part
of peas, after they have been pulped for soup, and grits,
or coarse oatmeal, which have been used for gruel.
Should the soup be poor of meat, the long boiling of
the bones, and different vegetables, will afford better
nourishment than the laborious poor can obtain ; espe-
cially as they are rarely tolerable cooks, and have not
fuel to do justice to what they buy. But in every fa-
mily there is some superfluity ; and if it be prepared
with cleanliness and care, the benefit will be very great
to the receiver, and the satisfaction no less to the giver.
I found, in the time of scarcity, ten or fifteen gallons
of soup could be dealt out weekly, at an expense not
worth mentioning, though the vegetables were bought.
i
COOKERY FOR THE POOR.
315
If in the villages about London, abounding with opulent
families, the quantity of ten gallons were made in ten
gentlemen’s houses, there would he a hundred gallons of
wholesome agreeable food given weekly for the supply
of forty poor families, at the rate of two gallons and a
half each.
What a relief to the labouring husband, instead of
bread and cheese, to have a warm comfortable meal !
To the sick, aged, and infant branches, how important
an advantage ! nor leSs to the industrious mother, whose
forbearance from the necessary quantity of food, that
others may have a larger share, frequently reduces that
strength upon which the welfare of her family essentially
depends.
It very rarely happens that servants object to second-
ing the kindness of their superiors to the poor ; hut
should the cook in any family think the adoption of this
plan too troublesome, a gratuity at the end of the winter
might repay her, if the love of her fellow-creatures failed
of doing it a hundred fold. Did she readily enter into
it, she would never wash away, as useless, the peas or
grits of which soup or gruel had been made ; broken po-
tatoes, the green heads of celery, the necks and feet of
fowls, and particularly the shanks of mutton, and va-
rious other articles which in preparing dinner for the
family are thrown aside.
Fish affords great nourishment, and that not by the
part eaten only, but the bones, heads, and fins, which
contain an isinglass. When the fish is served, let the
cook put by some of the water, and stew in it the above-
as likewise add the gravy that is in the dish, until she
obtain all the goodness. If to be eaten by itself, when it
makes a delightful broth, she should add a very small
bit of onion, some pepper, and a little rice-flour rubbed
down smooth with it.
316 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
But strained, it makes a delicious improvement to the
meat-soup, particularly for the sick ; and when such are
to be supplied, the milder parts of the spare bones and
meat should be used for them, with little, if any, of the
liquor of the salt meats.
The fat should not be taken off the broth or soup, as
the poor like it, and are nourished by it.
An excellent Soup for the weakly.
Put two cow-heels and a breast of mutton into a large
pan, with, four ounces of rice, one onion, twenty Ja-
maica peppers, and twenty black, a turnip, a carrot, and
four gallons of water ; cover with brown paper, and
bake six hours.
Sago.
Put a tea-cupful of sago into a quart of water, and a
bit of lemon-peel; when thickened, grate some ginger,
and add half a pint of raisin wane, brown sugar, and
two spoonfuls of Geneva; boil all up together.
It is a most supporting thing for those whom disease
has left very feeble.
Caudle for the Sick and Lying-in.
Set three quarts of water on the fire; mix smooth a3
much oatmeal as will thicken the whole, with a pint
of cold water : when boiling, pour the latter in, and
twenty Jamaica peppers in fine powder ; boil to a good
middling thickness; then add sugar, half a pint of well-
fermented table -beer, and a glass of gin. Boil all.
This mess twice, and once or twice of broth, will be
of incalculable service.
There is not a better occasion for charitable commi-
seration than when a person is sick. A bit of meat or
pudding sent unexpectedly has often been the means of
recalling long-lost appetite.
Nor are the indigent alone the grateful receivers; for
in the highest houses a real good sick-cook is rare y
VARIOUS RECEIPTS.
317
met with ; and many who possess all the goods of for-
tune, have attributed the first return of health to an
appetite excited by good kitchen-physic, as it is called.
PART XIII
VARIOUS RECEIPTS, AND DIRECTIONS TO
SERVANTS.
VARIOUS RECEIPTS.
To make soft Pomatum.
Beat half a pound of unsalted fresh lard in common
water; then soak and beat it in two rose-waters, drain it,
and beat it with two spoonfuls of brandy ; let it drain
from this ; add to it some essence of lemon, and keep it
in small pots.
Another way. — Soak half a pound of clear beef-mar-
row, and a pound of unsalted fresh lard, in water two
or three days, changing and beating it every day. Put
it into a sieve; and when dry, into a jar, and the jar
into a sauce-pan of water. When melted, pour it into a
basin, and beat it with two spoonfuls of brandy ; drain
oil the brandy, and then add essence of lemon, berga-
not, or any other scent that is liked.
Hard Pomatum.
Prepare equal quantities of beef-marrow and mutton-
suet as before, using the brandy to preserve it, and add-
ing the scent ; then pour it into moulds, or, if you have
none, into phials of the size you choose the rolls to be
of. When cold, break the bottles, clear away the glass
carefully, and put paper round the rolls.
Pomade Divine.
Clear a pound and a half of beef marrow from the
318 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
strings and bone, put it into an earthen pan, or vessel of
water fresh from the spring, and change the water night
and morning for ten days ; then steep it in rose-water
twenty-four hours ; and drain it in a cloth till quite dry.
Take an ounce of each of the following articles, namely,
storax, gum-benjamin, odoriferous cypress-powder, or
of Florence ; half an ounce of cinnamon, two drams of
cloves, and two drams of nutmeg, all finely powdered ;
mix them with the marrow above prepared; then put all
the ingredients into a pewter pot, that holds three pints;
make a paste of white of egg and flour, and lay it upon
a piece of rag. Over that must be another piece of
linen to cover the top of the pot very close, that none of
the steam may evaporate. Put the pot into a large cop-
per pot, with water, observing to keep it steady, that it
may not reach to the covering of the pot that holds the
marrow. As the water shrinks, add more, boiling hot;
for it must boil four hours without ceasing a moment.
Strain the ointment through a linen cloth into small pots,
and, when cold, cover them. Don’t touch it with any
thing but silver. It will keep many years.
A fine pomatum may be made by putting half a pound
of fresh marrow, prepared as above, and two ounces of
hog’s lard, on the ingredients ; and then observing the
same process as above.
Pot Pourri.
Put into a large China jar the following ingredients in
layers, with bay-salt strewed between the layers ; two
pecks of damask roses, part in buds and part blown ;
violets, orange- flowers, and jasmine, a handful of each ;
orris-root sliced, benjamin and storax, two ounces of
each ; a quarter of an ounce of musk ; a quarter of a
pound of angelica-root sliced ; a quart of the red parts of
c!o\ e-gillyflowers ; two handfuls of lavender-flowers;
half a handful of rosemary-flowers ; bay and laurel leaves,
hall a handful of each ; three Seville oranges, stuck as
VARIOUS RECEIPTS.
31.0
full of cloves as possible, dried in a cool oven, and
pounded ; half a handful of knotted marjoram; and two
handfuls of balm of Gilead dried. Cover all quite close.
When the pot is uncovered the perfume is very fine.
A quicker sort of Sweet Pot.
Take three handfuls of orange-flowers, three of clove-
gillyflowers, three of damask roses, one of knotted mar-
joram, one of lemon-thyme, six bay-leaves, a handful of
rosemary, one of myrtle, half one of mint, one of laven-
der, the rind of a lemon, and a quarter of an ounce of
cloves. Chop all ; and put them in layers, with pound-
ed bay-salt between, up to the top of the jar.
If all the ingredients cannot be got at once, put them
in as you get them ; always throwing in salt with every
new article.
To make Wash-Balls.
Shave thin two pounds of new white soap into about
a tea-cupful of rose-water ; then pour as much boiling
water on as will soften it. Put into a brass pan a pint
of sweet oil, fourpenny- worth of oil of almonds, half a
pound of spermaceti, and set all over the fire till dis-
solved ; then add the soap, and half an ounce of cam-
phor that has first been reduced to powder by rubbing
it in a mortar with a few drops of spirit of wine, or la-
vender-water, or any other scent. Boil ten minutes ;
then pour it into a basin, and stir till it is quite thick
enough to roll up into hard balls, which must then he
done as soon as possible. If essence is used, stir it in
quick after it is taken off the fire, that the flavour may
not fly off.
Paste for Chopped Hands, a nd which will preserve them
smooth by constant use.
Mix a quarter of a pound of unsalted hog’s lard, which
has been washed in common and then rose-water, with
the yolks of two new-laid eggs, and a large spoonful of
320 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
honey. Add as much fine oatmeal, or almond-paste, as
will work into a paste.
For chopped Lips.
Put a quarter of an ounce of benjamin, storax, and
spermaceti, twopenny-worth of alkanet root, a large
juicy apple chopped, a bunch of black grapes bruised, a
quarter of a pound of unsalted butter, and two ounces
of bees- wax, into a new tin sauce-pan. Simmer gently
till the wax, &c. are dissolved, and then strain it through
a linen. When cold, melt it again, and pour it into
small pots or boxes ; or if to make cakes, use the bot-
toms of tea- cups.
Hungary Water.
To one pint of highly rectified spirit of wine, put an
ounce of oil of rosemary, and two drams of essence of
ambergris ; shake the bottle well several times, then let
the cork remain out twenty-four hours. After a month,
during which time shake it daily, put the water into
small bottles.
Honey Waier.
Take a pint of spirit as above, and three drams of
essence of ambergris ; shake them well daily.
Lavender Water.
Take a pint of spirit as above, essential oil of lavender
one ounce, essence of ambergris two drams; put all into
a quart bottle, and shake it extremely well.
An excellent Water to prevent Hair from falling off, and
to thicken it.
Put four pounds of unadulterated honey into a still,
with twelve handfuls of the tendrils of vines, and the
same quantity of rosemary-tops. Distil as cool and as
slowly as possible. The liquor may be allowed to drop
till it begins to taste sour.
Black Paper for drawing Patterns.
Mix and smooth lamp-black and sweet oil; with a bit
of flannel, cover a sheet or two of large writing paper
VARIOUS RECEIPTS.
321
with this mixture ; then dab the paper dry with a bit of
tine linen, and keep it by for using in the following
manner : —
Put the black side on another sheet of paper, and
fasten the corners together with a small pin. Lay on the
back of the black paper the pattern to be drawn, and go
over it with the point of a steel pencil : the black paper
will then leave the impression of the pattern on the under
sheet, on which you musfj now draw it with ink.
If you draw patterns on cloth, or muslin, do it with a
pen dipped in a bit of stone blue, a hit of sugar, and a
little water mixed smooth in a tea-cup, in which it will
be always ready for use ; if fresh, wet to a due consist-
ence as wanted.
Blade Ink.
Take a gallon of rain or soft water, and three quarters
of a pound of blue galls bruised ; infu?o them three
weeks, stirring daily. Then add four ounces of green
copperas, four ounces of logwood-chips, six ounces of
gum arabic, and a wine-glassful of brandy.
Another way. — The ink-powder sold in Shoe-lane is
one of the best preparations in this useful article. Di-
rections are given with it how to mix it ; in addition to
which, a large cup of sweet wort to two papers of the
powder, gives it the brightness of the japan ink. If a
packet of six papers is bought together, it costs only
eightpence, and that quantity will last a long time.
To cement broken China.
Beat lime into the most impalpable powder, sift it
through fine muslin : then tie some into a thin muslin ;
put on the edges of the broken china some white of egg,
then dust some lime quickly on the same, and unite them
exactly.
A n excellent Stucco, which will adhere to Wood-wod:.
i rlake a bushel of the best stone-lime, a pound of yel-
x
322 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
low oker, and a quarter of a pound of brown umber, all
In fine powder. Mix them with a sufficient quantity of
hot (but not boiling) water, to a proper thickness ; and
lay it on with a whitewashed brush, which should be
new. If the wall be quite smooth, one or two coats will
do ; but each must be dry before the next is put on.
The month of March is the best season for doing this.
Mason's Washes for Stucco.
Blue. — To four pounds of blue vitriol, and a pound of
the best whiting, put a gallon of water, in an iron or
brass pot. Let it boil an hour, stirring it all the time.
Then pour it into an earthen pan ; and set it by for a day
or two, till the colour is settled. Pour off the water,
and mix the colour with whitewashed size. Wash the
walls three or four times, according as is necessary.
Yellow. — Dissolve in soft water over the fire equal
quantities separately of umber, bright oker, and blue
black. Then put it into as much whitewash as you think
sufficient for the work, some of each, and stir it all to-
gether. If either cask predominates, add more of the
others till you have the proper tint.
The most beautiful whitewash is made by mixing the
lime and size with skimmed milk instead of water.
Roman Cement or Mortar, for outside plastering or
brickwork.
This will resist all weather ; and may be used to
great advantage to line reservoirs, as no water can pene-
trate it.
Take eighty-four pounds of drift-sand, twelve pounds
ot unslacked lime, and four pounds of the poorest cheese
grated through an iron grater. When well mixed, add
enough hot (but not boiling) water to make into a pro-
per consistence for plastering, such a quantity of the
above as is wanted. It requires very good and quick
working. One hod of this mortar will go a great way,
as it is to be laid on in a thin smooth coat, without the
VARIOUS RECEIPTS.
323
least space being left uncovered. The wall or lath- work
should be covered first with hair and lime mortar, and
well dried. This was used by the ancients, and is now
adopted among us. The Suffolk cheese does better than
any other of this country.
To take Stains of any kind, out of Linen.
Stains caused by Acids. — Wet the part, and lay on
some salt of wormwood. Then rub it without diluting
it with more water.
Another— Let the cloth imbibe a little water without
dipping, and hold the part over a lighted match at a due
distance. The spots will be removed by the sulphure-
ous gas.
Another way. — Tie up in the stained part some pearl-
ash ; then scrape some soap into cold soft water to make
a lather, and boil the linen till the stain disappears.
Stains of Wine, Fniit, §c. after they have been long in
the Linen. — Rub the part on each side with yellow soap.
Then lay on a mixture of starch in cold water very thick ;
rub it well in, and expose the linen to the sun and air
till the stain comes out. If not removed in three or
four days, rub that off, and renew the process. When
dry it may be sprinkled with a little water.
Many other Stains may be taken out by dipping the
linen in sour butter-milk, and drying in a hot sun.
Then wash it in cold water, and dry it, two or three
times a day.
fron-moidds should be wetted ; then lay on a hot
water-plate, and a little essential salt of lemons put on
the part. If the linen becomes dry, wet it and renew
the process ; observing that the plate is kept boiling hot.
Much of the powder sold under the name of salt of le-
mons is a spurious preparation ; and therefore it is ne-
cessary to dip the linen in a good deal of water, and
wash it as soon as the stain is removed, to prevent the
part from being worn into holes by the acid.
324
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
To take out Mildew. — Mix soft soap with starch pow-
dered, half as much salt, and the juice of a lemon ; lay
it on the part on both sides with a painter’s brush. Let
it lie on the grass day and night till the stain comes out.
To make Flannels keep their colour and not shrink.
Put them into a pail, and pour boiling water on, let-
ting them lie till cold, the first time of washing.
To preserve Furs and Woollen from Moths.
Let the former he occasionally combed while in use,
and the latter be brushed and shaken. When not want-
ed, dry them first, let them be cool, then mix among
them bitter apples from the apothecary’s, in small mus-
lin bags, sewing them in several folds of linen, carefully
turned in at the edges, and keep from damp.
To dye the linings of Furniture, $c.
Buff or Salmon-colour, according to the depth of the
km. — Rub down on a pewter plate twopenny-worth of
Spanish arnatto, and then boil it in a pail of water a
quarter of au hour. Put into it two ounces of pot-ash,
stir it round, and instantly put in the lining ; stir it
about all the time it is boiling, which must be five or
six minutes ; then put it into cold pump water, and
hang the articles up singly without wringing. When
almost dry, fold and mangle it.
Pink. — The calico must be washed extremely clean
and be dry. Then boil it in two gallons of soft water,
and four ounces of alum ; take it out, and dry in the
air. In the mean time boil in the alum-water two
liandtuls of wlieat-bran till quite slippery, and then
strain it. Take two scruples of cochineal, and two
ounces of argali finely pounded and sifted ; mix with it
the liquor by little at a time. Then put into the liquor
the calico ; and boil till it is almost wasted, moving it
about. Take out the calico, and wash it in chamberlye
first, and in cold water after ; then rinse it in water-
starch strained, and dry it quick without hanging it in
VARIOUS RECEIPTS, 325
folds. Mangle It very highly, unless you have it cal-
endered, which is best.
Blue. — Let the calico be washed clean and dried ;
then mix some of Scot’s liquid blue in as much water as
will be sufficient to cover the things to be dyed, and put
some starch to it to give a light stiffness. Dry a bit to
see whether the colour is deep enough ; then set the
linen, &c. into it, and wash it ; then dry the articles
singly, and mangle or Callender them.
To dye Gloves to look like York tan or Limerick,
according to the deepness of the dye.
Put some saffron into a pint of water boiling hot, and
let it infuse all night ; next morning wet the leather
over with a brush. The tops should be sewn close to
prevent the colour from getting in.
To dye White Gloves a beautiful Purple.
Boil four ounces of logwood, and two ounces of roche
alum, in three pints of soft water till half wasted. Let
it stand to be cold, after straining. Let the gloves be
nicely mended ; then with a brush do over them, and
when dry repeat it. Twice is sufficient, unless the co-
lour is to be very dark. When dry, rub off the loose
dye with a coarse cloth. Beat up the white of an egg,
and with a spunge rub it over the leather. The dye
will stain the hands, but wetting them with vinegar will
take it off, before they are washed.
A Liquor to wash Old Deeds, <ijfc. on Paper or Parch -
ment when the writing is obliterated, or when
sunk, to make it legible.
Take five or six galls, bruise them, and put them into
a pint of strong white wine ; let it stand in the sun two
days. Then dip a brush iuto the wine, and wash the
part of the writing which is sunk ; and by the colour
you will see whether it is strong enough of the galls.
To prevent the Rot in Sheep.
Keep them in the pens till the dew is off the grass.
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
To prevent green Hay from firing.
Stuff a sack as full of straw or hay as possible; tie the
mouth with a cord ; and make the rick round the sack,
drawing it up as the rick advances in height, and quite
out when finished. The funnel thus left in the centre
preserves it.
To preserve a Granary from Insects and Weasels.
Make the floor of Lombardy poplars.
To destroy Crickets.
Put Scotch snuff upou the holes where they come out.
DIRECTIONS TO SERVANTS,
To clean Calico Furniture when taken down for the
Summer.
Shake off the loose dust, then lightly brush with a
small long-haired furniture brash; after which wipe it
closely with clean flannels, and rub it with dry bread.
If properly done, the curtains will look nearly as well
as at first, and if the colour be not light, they will not
require washing for years.
Fold in large parcels, and put carefully by.
bile the furniture remains up, it should be preserved
fiom the sun and air as much as possible, which injure
delicate colours; and the dust may be blown off with
bellows.
By the above mode curtains may be kept clean, even
to use with the linings newly dipped.
To clean Plate.
Boil an ounce of prepared hartshorn-powder in a quart
of water; while on the fire, put into it as much plate as
the vessel will hold; let it boil a little, then take it out,
drain it over the sauce-pan, and dry it before the fire.
Put in more, and serve the same, till you have done.
Then put into the water some clean linen rags till all be
soaked up. AVhen dry, they will serve to clean the 1
plate, and are the very best things to clean the brass
directions to servants. o-/
locks and finger-plates of doors. When the plate is
quite dry, it must be rubbed bright 'with leather, llus
is a very nice mode. In many plate-powders there is
a mixture of quicksilver, which is very injurious; and,
among other disadvantages, it makes silver so brittle,
that from a fall it will break.
To clean Looking-glasses.
Remove the fly-stains* and other soil, by a damp rag;
then polish with woollen cloth and powder blue.
To preserve CHlding , and clean it.
It is not possible to prevent flies from staining the
gilding without covering it; before which, blow off the
light dust, and pass a feather or clean brush over it :
then with stripes of paper cover the frames of your
glasses, and don’t remove it till the Hies are gone.
Linen takes off the gilding, aud deadens its bright-
ness ; it should therefore never be used for wiping it.
Some means should be used to destroy the flies, as
they injure furniture of every kind, and the paper like-
wise. Bottles hung about with sugar and vinegar, 01
beer, will attract them ; or fly-water put into little shells
placed about the room, but out of the reach of children.
To clean Paint.
Never use a cloth, but take off the dust with a little
long-haired brush, after blowing off the loose parts with
theliellows. With care, paint will look well for a length
of time. When soiled, dip a sponge or a bit of flannel
into soda and water, wash it off quickly, and dry imme-
diately, or the strength of the soda will eat out the colour.
When wainscot requires scouring, it should be done
from the top downwards, and the soda be prevented horn
running on the unclean part as much as possible, or
marks will be made which will appear after the whole is
finished. One person should dry with old linen as fast
as the other has scoured off the dirt aud washed the
soda off.
328
domestic cookery.
To clean Paper Hangings.
lnrst blow off the dust with the bellows. Divide a
white loaf of eight days old into eight parts. Take the
crust into your hand, and beginning at the top of the
paper, wipe it downwards in the lightest manner with
the crumb. Don’t cross nor go upwards. The dirt of
the paper and the crumbs will fall together Ob-
serve you must not wipe above half a yard at a stroke, .
and after doing all the upper part, go round again, be-
ginning a little above where you left off. If yOU don’t
do it extremely lightly, you will make the dirt adhere
to the paper.
It will look like new if properly done.
To give a Gloss to fine Oak-wainscot.
greasy, it must be washed with warm beer ; then
boil two quarts of strong beer, a bit of bee’s wax as lar<m
as a walnut, and a large spoonful of sugar ; wet it all
over with a large brush, and when dry rub it till bright.
To give a fine Colour to Mahogany.
Let the tables be washed perfectly clean with vinegar
having first taken out any ink stains there may be with
spirit of salt; but it must be used with the greatest care,
and only touch the part affected, and be instantly washed
off. Use the following liquid Into a pint of cold-
drawn linseed oil, put four pennyworth of alkanet-root
and twopennyworth of rose-pink, in an earthen vessel •
let it remain all night, then stirring well, rub some of it
aH over the tables with a linen rag ; when it has lain
some time, rub it bright with linen cloths.
Eating-tables should be covered with mat, oil-cloth,
or baize, to prevent staining, and be instantly rubbed
when the dishes are taken off, while still warm.
To take Ink out of Mahogany.
Dilute half a tea-spoonful of oil of vitriol with a lar<re
spoonful of water, and touch the part with a feather •
watch it, for if it stays too long it will leave a white
DIRECTIONS TO SERVANTS. 329
mark. It is therefore better to rub it quick, and repeat
if not quite removed.
Floor-cloths
Should be chosen that are painted on a fine cloth, that is
well covered with the colour, and the flowers on which
do not rise much above the ground, as they wear out
first. The durability of the cloth will depend much on
these two particulars, ‘‘but more especially on the time it
has been painted, and the goodness of the colours. If
they have not been allowed sufficient space for becoming
thoroughly hardened, a very little use will injure them;
and as they are very expensive articles, care in preserv-
ing them is necessary. It answers to keep them some
time before they are used, either hung up in a dry barn
where they will have air, or laid down in a spare room.
When taken up for the winter, they should be rolled
round a carpet roller, and observe not to crack the paint
by turning the edges in too suddenly.
Old carpets answer extremely well, painted and sea-
soned some months before laid down. If for passages,
the width must be directed when they are sent to the
manufactory, as they are cut before painting.
To clean Floor-cloths.
Sweep, then wipe them with a flannel; and when all
dust and spots are removed, rub with a waxed flannel,
and then with a dry plain one ; but use little wax, and
rub only enough with the latter to give a little smooth-
ness, or it may endanger falling.
Washing now and then with milk after the above
sweeping, and dry-rubbing them, give as beautiful a
look, and they are less slippery.
To dust Carpets and Floors.
Sprinkle tea-leaves on them, then sweep carefully.
The former should not be swept frequently with a
whisk brush, as it wears them fast ; only once a week,
and the other times with the leaves and a hair brush.
330 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Fine carpets should be gently done with a hair hand-
brush, such as for cloths, on the knees.
To clean Carpets.
Take up the carpet, let it be well beaten, then laid
down, and brushed on both sides with a hand-brush ;
turn it the right side upwards, and scour it with ox-gall,
and soap and water, very clean, and dry it with linen
cloths. Then lay it on glass, or hang it up to dry.
To give to Boards a beautiful appearance.
After washing them very nicely clean with soda and
warm water, and a brush, wash them with a very large
sponge and clean water. Both times observe to leave
no spot untouched; and clean straight up and down, not
crossing from board to board : then dry with clean cloths,
rubbing hard up and down in the same way.
The floors should not be often wetted, but very tho-
roughly when done ; and once a week dry-rubbed with
hot sand, and a heavy brush, the right way of the boards.
The sides of stairs or passages on which are carpets,
or floor-cloth, should be washed with sponge instead of
linen or flannel, and the edges will not be soiled. Dif-
ferent sponges should be kept for the two above uses ;
and those and the brushes should be well washed when
done with, and kept in dry places.
To extract Oil from Boards or Stone.
Make a strong lye of pearl-ashes and soft water; and
add as much unslacked lime as it will take up ; stir it
together, and then let it settle a few minutes; bottle it,
and stop close ; have ready some water to lower it as
used, and scour the part with it. If the liquor should
lie long on the boards, it will draw out the colour of
them ; therefore do it with care and expedition.
To clean stone Stairs and Halls.
Boil a pound of pipe- maker’s clay with a quart of wa-
ter, a quart of small beer, and put in a bit of stone-blue.
i
DIRECTIONS TO SERVANTS. 331
Wash with this mixture, aud when dry, nib the stones
with flannel and a brush.
To blacken the fronts of Stone Chimney-pieces.
Mix oil-varnish with lamp-black, and a little spirit
of turpentine to thin it to the consistence of paint. Wash
the stone with soap and water very clean ; then sponge
it with clear water ; .and when perfectly dry, brush it
over twice with this colour, letting it dry between the
times. It looks extremely well. The lamp-black must
be sifted first.
To take Stains out of Marble.
Mix unslacked lime, in finest powder, with the
stronger soap-lye, pretty thick ; and instantly, with a
painter’s brush, lay it on the whole of the marble. In
two months time wash it off perfectly clean ; then have
ready a fine thick lather of soft soap, boiled in soft wa-
ter ; dip a brush in it, and scour the marble with pow-
der, not as common cleaning. This will, by very good
rubbing, give a beautiful polish. Clear off the soap,
and finish with a smooth hard brush till the end be
effected.
To take Iron Stains out of Marble.
An equal quantity of fresh spirit of vitriol and lemon-
juice being mixed in a bottle, shake it well ; wet the
spots, and in a few minutes rub with soft linen till they
disappear.
To preserve Irons from Rust.
Melt fresh mutton-suet, smear over the iron with it
while hot; then dust it well with unslacked lime pound-
ed, and tied up in a muslin. Irons so prepared will
keep many months. Use no oil for them at any time,
except salad oil ; there being water in all other.
Fire-irons should be kept wrapt in baize, in a dry
place, when not used.
Another ivay. — Beat into three pounds of unsalted
hogs’ lard, two drams of camphor sliced thin, till it is
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
dissolved ; then take as much black lead as will make
it of the colour of broken steel. Dip a rag into it, and
lub it thick on the stove, &c. and the steel will never
rust, even if wet. When it is to be used, the grease
must be washed off with hot water, and the steel be
dried before polishing.
To take Rust ou t of Steel.
Cover the steel with sweet oil well rubbed on it, and
in forty-eight hours use unslacked lime finely powdered,
and rub until all the rust disappears.
To clean the back of the Grate , the inner Hearth, and
the fronts of Cast Iron Staves.
Boil about a quarter of a pound of the best black lead,
with a pint of small beer, and a bit of soap the size of
a walnut. When that is melted, dip a painter’s brush,
and wet the grate, having first brushed off all the soot
and dust ; then take a hard brush, and rub it till of a
beautiful brightness.
Another way to clean Cast Iron, and black Hearths.
Mix black lead and whites of eggs well beaten toge-
ther ; dip a painter’s brush, and wet all over, then rub
it bright with a hard brush.
To take the Black of the bright Bars of polished Stores
in a few Minutes.
Rub them well with some of the following mixture on
a bit of broad cloth ; when the dirt is removed, wipe
them clean, and polish with glass, not sand-paper.
The mixture. — Boil slowly one pound of soft soap in
two quarts of water, to one. Of this jelly take three or
four spoonfuls, and mix to a consistence with emery
No. 3. }
To dean Tin Covers, and Patent Pewter Porter Pots.
Get the finest whiting, which is only sold in large
cakes, the small being mixed with sand ; mix a little
of it powdered, with the least drop of sweet oil, and
rub well, and wipe clean ; then dust some dry whiting
BILLS OF FARE.
333
in a muslin bag over, aud rub bright with dry leather-
The last is to prevent rust, which the cook must be
careful to guard against by wiping dry, and putting by
the fire when they come from the parlour ; for if but
once hung up without, the steam will rust the inside.
To prevent the creaking of a Door.
Rub a bit of soap on the hinges.
A strong Paste for Paper.
To two large spoonfuls of fine flour, put as much
pounded rosin as will lie on a shilling ; mix with as
much strong beer as will make it of a due consistence,
and boil half an hour. Let it be cold before it is used.
Fine blacking for Shoes.
Take four ounces of ivory black, three ounces of the
coarsest sugar, a table spoonful of sweet oil, and a pint
of small beer ; mix them gradually cold.
BILLS OF FARE, FAMILY DINNERS, &C.
BILLS OF FARE, &C.
List of various Articles in season in different months.
JANUARY.
Poultry. — Game : Pheasants. Partridges. Hares.
Rabbits. Woodcocks. Snipes. Turkies. Capons.
Pullets. Fowls. Chickens. Tame Pigeons.
Fish. — Carp. Tench. Perch. Lampreys. Eels. Cray-
fish. Cod. Soles. Flounders. Plaice. Turbot. Thorn-
back. Skate. Sturgeon. Smelts. Whitings. Lobsters.
Crabs. Prawns. Oysters.
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
J egetabtes. Cabbage. Savoys. Colewort. Sprouts.
Brocoli. Leeks. Onions. Beet. Sorrel. Chervil. Endive.
Spinach. Celery. Garlick. Scorzonera. Potatoes. Par-
snips. 1 urnips. Brocoli, white and purple. Shalots. Let-
tuces. Cresses. Mustard. Rape. Salsafy. Herbs of all
sorts; dry, and some green. Cucumbers. Asparagus, and
Mushrooms, to be had though not in season.
Fruit. Apples. Pears. Nuts. Walnuts. Medlars.
Grapes.
FEBRUARY AND MARCH.
Meat, Fowls, and Game, as in January, with the ad-
dition of Ducklings and Chickens; which last are to be
bought in London, most, if not all, the year, but very
dear.
Fish. — As the last two months ; except that Cod is
not thought so good from February to July, but may be
bought.
Vegetables. — The same as the former months, with
the addition of Kidney Beans.
Fruit. Apples. Pears. Forced Strawberries.
SECOND QUARTER; APRIL, MAY, AND JUNE.
Teat. Beef. Mutton. A eal. Lamb. Venison in June.
Poultry. — Pullets. Fowls. Chickens. Ducklings.
Pigeons. Rabbits. Leverets.
Fish.- — Carp. Tench. Soles. Smelts. Eels. Trout.
Turbot. Lobsters. Chub. Salmon. Herrings. Crayfish.
Mackerel. Crabs. Prawns. Shrimps.
Vegetables. — As before ; and in May, early Potatoes.
Peas. Radishes. Kidney Beans. Carrots. Turnips. Early
Cabbages. Cauliflowers. Asparagus. Artichokes. All
sorts of Salads forced.
Fruits. — In June: Strawberries. Cherries. Melons.
Green Apricots. Currants and Gooseberries for Tarts. —
In July: Cherries. Strawberries. Pears. Melons. Goose-
BILLS OF FARE. 335
berries. Currants. Apricots. Grapes. Nectarines ; and
some Peaches. But most of these are forced.
THIRD QUARTER. — JULY, AUGUST, AND SEPTEMBER.
Meat as before.
Poultry. — Pullets. Fowls. Chickens. Rabbits. Pi-
geons. Green Geese. Leverets. Turkey Poults. Two
former months, Plovers. Wheatears. Geese in Sep-
tember.
Fish. — Cod. Haddock. Flounders. Plaice. Skate.
Thornback. Mullets. Pike. Carp. Eels. Shell-fish,
except Oysters. Mackerel the first two months of the
quarter, but not good in August.
Partridge shooting begins the 1st of September; what
is therefore used before, is poached.
Vegetables. — Of all sorts, Beans, Peas, French Beans,
&c. &c.
Fruit.- — Tn July : Strawberries. Gooseberries. Pine
Apples. Plums, various. Cherries. Apricots. Rasp-
berries. Melons. Currants. Damsons.
In August and September : Peaches. Plums. Figs.
Filberts. Mulberries. Cherries. Apples. Pears. Necta-
rines. Grapes. Latter months. Pines. Melons. Straw-
berries. Medlars and Quinces in the latter month. Mo-
relia Cherries. Damsons ; and various Plums.
OCTOBER.
Meat as before, and Doe Venison.
Poultry and Game. — Domestic fowls as in former
quarter. Pheasants, from the 1st of October. Partridges.
Larks. Hares. Dotterels. The end of the month, Wild-
ducks. Teal. Snipes. Widgeon. Grouse.
Fish. — Dories. Smelts. Pike. Peach. Holibets.
Brills. Carp. Salmon. Trout. Barbel. Gudgeons. Tench.
Shell Fish.
336 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Vegetables. — As in January, French Beans, last crops
of Beans, &c.
Fruit. — Peaches. Pears. Figs. Bullace. Grapes. Ap-
ples. Medlars. Damsons. Filberts. Walnuts. Nuts.
Quinces. Services. Medlars.
NOVEMBER.
Meat. — Beef. Mutton. Veal. Pork. House Lamb.
Doe Venison. Poultry and Game as the last month.
Fish as the last month.
Vegetables. — Carrots. Turnips. Parsnips. Potatoes.
Skirrets. Scorzonera. Onions. Leeks. Shalots. Cabbage.
Savoys. Colewort. Spinach. Cliurd Beets. Cardoons.
Cresses. Endive. Celery. Lettuces. Salad. Herbs.
Pot-herbs.
Fruit. — Pears. Apples. Nuts. Walnuts. Bullace.
Chesnuts. Medlars. Grapes.
DECEMBER.
Meat. — Beef. Mutton. Veal. House Lamb. Pork
and Venison.
Poultry and Game.— Geese. Turkies. Pullets. Pi-
geons. Capons. Fowls. Chickens. Rabbits. Hares.
Snipes. Wood-cocks. Larks. Pheasants. Partridges.
Sea-fowls. Guinea-fowls. Wild-ducks. Teal. Widgeon.
Dotterels. Dun-birds. Groose.
Fish. — Cod. Turbot. Holibets. Soles. Gurnets. Stur-
geon. Carp. Gudgeons. Codlings. Eels. Dories. Shell
Fish.
Vegetables. — As in the last month. Asparagus forced,
&c.
Fruit as the last, except Bullace.
FAMILY DINNERS.
33!
FAMILY DINNERS.
FIVE DISHES.
Knuckle of Veal stewed with Rice.
Apple-sauce.
Bread and Butter.
Pudding.
Loin of Pork roasted.
•»
Potatoes.
Potatoes.
Peas Soup.
(Remove — boiled Foiol.)
Oyster Sauce.
Apple-pie.
Brocoli.
>
Roasted Beef.
Benton Sauce.
Pig Souse fried in Batter.
(Remove for Yorkshire Pudding.')
Potatoes.
Peas Soup.
Roast Veal.
Salad,
Stewed Beet
and Onions.
Hessian Ragout.
Hessian Soup
of the above.
Leg of Lamb roasted.
Potatoes.
Beef Podovies.
(Remove — Curd Puddings.)
Mashed Potatoes Mutton Broth.
grilled.
Neck of Mutton.
Carrots
and Turnips.
Potatoes.
Broiled Haddocks stuffed.
Light Suet
Dumplings.
Round of Beef.
Carrots
and Greens.
Salad.
Crimp Cod.
Gooseberry
Pudding.
Jerusalem
Artichokes.
Leg of Mutton.
T
338
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
Spitchcock Eels.
( Remove — Clime of Lamb in Cresses.)
P otatoes. Damson Pudding.
Cold Beef.
Stewed
Carrots.
Scrag of Veal
smothered with Onions.
( Remove — a Fruit Pie.)
Mashed Potatoes
trimmed with T, ,,
small slices of Peas Soup.
Bacon.
Hashed Hare.
Brocoli.
Tongue
and Brains.
Half Calf’s Head, grilled.
( Remove — Pie or Pudding.)
Carrot Soup.
Saddle of Mutton,
Potatoes and Salad, at side table.
Bacon,
Greens round.
Young
Greens.
Boiled neck of Mutton.
Baked
Plum Pudding.
Currie of dressed Meat
in Casserole of Rice.
Turnips.
Carrots.
Edgebone of Beef.
Vegetable Soup.
Pulled Turkey or Fowl,
Leg broiled.
Greens.
Boiled Fowls.
( Remove — Snowballs .)
Potatoes Patties of Greens, and
dressed Meat. mashed Turnips.
Chine of Bacon Pork, boiled.
FAMILY DINNERS.
339
Macaroni
Pudding.
Potatoes.
Peas Pudding.
SEVEN DISHES.
Salmon and fried Smelts.
Giblet Soup.
Roast Beef.
Turnips
and Potatoes.
Leg of Pork boiled.
Onion Soup.
Stewed Celery.
Veal Patties.
Bread Sauce.
Plum-Pudding,
baked.
Large Fowl, dressed as Turkey.
Small Meat
Pie.
Stewed Onions
Minced Veal,
garnished with fried crumbs.
Hot Apple Pie, Potatoes
in change for Soup. in a Form.
Beans and Bacon.
Saddle of Mutton.
Carrots.
Mushrooms
stewed.
FOUR AND FIVE.
(FIRST course.)
Soup.
Mashed Turnips.
Bonillie.
(second course.)
Fricassee of Sweetbreads.
Lemon r,
Pudding. Peas-
Green Goose.
Bacon.
Salad.
(first course.)
Mackerel broiled, with Herbs.
Butter.
Boiled Chickens.
(second course.)
Fruit Pie.
Fore-quarter of Lamb roasted.
Greens and
Carrots.
Potatoes,
in a shape.
340
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
SEVEN AND SEVEN.
(FIRST COURSE.)
Broiled Salmon.
Stewed
Spinach.
Oxford
Dumplings.
( Potatoes
( Remove — Chine of Pork.)
Mince-
Pies.
Peas Soup.
Peas
Pudding.
Fillet of Veal.
and mashed Turnips on side table.)
(SECOND COURSE.)
Ragout of Palates.
Orange Fool. Potted Beef.
Curd Star with whip.
Collared Eel. Stewed Pears.
Pheasant.
( Bread-sauce, on side table.)
(first course.)
Cod’s head and shoulders.
(Remove — boiled Turkey.)
Patties.
Giblet Soup.
Boiled Neck
of Mutton,
7 Bones.
Small Leg of Pork.
Four small Dishes of Vegetables may be put round the
Soup, or two served at the side table.
(second course.)
Fricandeau.
Orange Pudding. Scraped Beef.
Lemon Creams.
Anchovy Toast. Tarts.
Teal, or other wiki Fowls-
Currie of
Rabbit.
Eel Pie.
FAMILY DINNERS.
341
Brocoli.
Chickens
boiled.
SEVEN AND NINE.
(FIRST COURSE.)
Pepper Pot.
Tongue braised.
Hunter’s Pudding.
. Celery,
* dished in a Pyramid.
Saddle of Mutton.
Greens and Potatoes on the side ta)Ae.
(second course.)
Roasted Partridges. .
Almond
Cheesecakes.
Celery in Raspberry
White Sauce. Cream.
Collared Beef. Lemon
Potted
Cheese.
Cardoons
stewed.
Pudding.
Hare.
Chickens.
Codsounds
White.
NINE AND SEVEN.
(FIRST COURSE.)
Stewed Carp.
Cheek
Parsley of Bacon.
Butter. Butter.
Rabbits
Epergne. and Onions.
Stewed
Pigeons.
Mushrooms
stewed.
Currant
J elly.
Gravy.
Cutlets
Maiutenon.
Green Peas Soup.
(Remove — Haunch Venison.)
Vegetables on side table.
(SECOND COURSE.)
Sweetbreads.
Sauce Robart. Blamange in
small forms.
Trifle.
( urrant Tart Bread Sauce,
with Custard.
Stewed
Cucumbers.
Roasted Partridges.
342
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
NINE AND ELEVEN ; AND A REMOVE.
Palates.
French
Pie.
Veal ,
Olives.
Stewed
Pippins.
Scalloped
Oysters.
Cray Fish
in Jelly.
(first course.)
Turbot.
( Remove — Chickens. )
Liver and Lemon Sauce. Lamb’s Fry.
Carrot Soup. .
1 in 1 urnips.
Butter. Ra,l’)it brown
m b ncassee.
Edgebone of Beef.
Vegetables on side table.
(second course.)
Wild Fowl.
French
Beans.
Solid Syllabub
in a glass dish.
Peas.
Goose.
Lobster in
Fricassee Sauce.
Stewed
Mushrooms.
Apricot Tart,
open cover.
NINE DISHES, TWO REMOVES, AND ELEVEN.
(FIRST COURSE.)
Fish.
( Remove — Stewed Beef)
Oxford Dumplings. w, .. q " Fricandeau.
Small Ham. '' hlte SouP- Turkey boiled.
Lamb Steaks Oyster Sauce,
round Potatoes. Lobster Patties.
Fish.
( Remove — Saddle of Mutton.)
(SECOND COURSE.
Sweetbreads larded.
French Beans,
in White Sauce.
Open Tart.
Lobster.
Orange Jelly.
Raspberry Cream.
Form.
Green Goose.
Prawns.
Sago
Pudding.
Stewed
Mushrooms.
FAMILY DINNERS,
343
(fiemove-
Rabbit and Onions.
Macaroni
Pudding.
Veal
Cutlets.
(FIRST COURSE.)
Fish.
- Hashed, Calf's Head.')
Sauce.
Transparent
„Soup.
Butter.
Lamb’s Fry.
Beef-steak
Pie.
Stewed Pigeons
with Cabbage.
Fish.
( Remove — Sirloin of Beef.)
(SECOND COURSE.)
Chickens.
Cheesecakes. Stewed Lobster.
Raspberry Cream.
Peas. Trifle. Asparagus.
Lemon Cream.
Macaroni. Apricot open Tart.
Ducklings.
Pigeons
stewed.
T ongue.
Boiled Mutton.
ELEVEN AND NINE.
(FIRST COURSE.)
Fish.
( Remove — Ham Glazed..')
Sauce.
Gravy Soup.
Sweetbreads
grilled.
Butter.
Fillet of Veal.
(SECOND COURSE.)
Pheasant.
Raspberry Tartlets. Bread Sauce.
Collared Eel. Plateau.
Stewed Gravy and J elly
Celery. for Hare.
Hare.
Beef-steak Pie.
Boiled Chickens.
Artichokes.
Collared Beef.
Stewed
Pears.
344
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
ELEVEN AND ELEVEN.
Oxford Puddings
Ham
braised.
Lamb Steaks.
Potatoes.
French Beans.
White Sauce.
Open
Tartlet.
Anchovy.
Toasts.
(first course.)
Stewed Beef.
. White Soup.
Fish.
Saddle of Mutton.
(second course.)
Sweetbreads.
Orange Jelly.
Whipped
Cream.
Wine Roll.
Green Goose.
Teal Fricandeau.
Turkey.
Oyster Sauce.
Lobster
Patties.
Prawns.
Muffin
Pudding.
Stewed
Mushrooms.
ELEVEN AND ELEVEN, AND TWO REMOVES.
(FIRST COURSE.)
Salmon.
( Remove Brisket of Beef stewed, and high Sauce.)
Cauliflower.
Shrimp Sauce.
Giblet Soup.
Potatoes.
Anchovy Sauce.
Soles Fried.
{Remove— Quarter of Lamb roasted.)
(SECOND COURSE.)
Young Peas.
Fry.
Stewed
Cucumbers.
Cutlet
Maintenon.
Pigeon Pie.
Stewed Peas
and Lettuce.
Veal Olives
braised.
Coffee Cream.
Raspberry
Tart.
Omlet.
Lobster.
Trifle.
Grated Beef.
Ducks.
Ramakins.
Orange
Trout.
Roughed Jelly.
FAMILY DINNERS.
345
LONG TABLE ONCE COVERED.
Fruit Tart.
Ilarrico.
Fish.
One Turkey or
Two Poults.
Mock Turtle Soup.
Mash Turnips.
Carrots thick
round.
Cray
Kish.
Ham braised.
Jerusalem Artichokes
fricasseed.
Savoy Cake.
Macaroni Pudding.
Trifle.
French Pie.
Blamange.
Sweetbreads
larded.
Stewed
Spinach.
Dried Salmon
in papers.
Chickens.
Casserole of Rice Picked Crab,
with Giblets.
Stewed Celery.
Sea Cale. Young Sprouts.
Apple Pie and Custard.
Ox Rumps, and
Fricandeau. Spanish Onions.
Rich White Soup.
Jelly Form. Cheesecakes.
Fish.
( Remove — Venison, or Loin of Veal.)
GENERAL REMARKS ON DINNERS.
Things used at first Courses— Various Soups. Fish
dressed many ways. Turtle. Mock Turtle. Boiled Meats
and stewed. Tongue. Ham. Bacon. Chawls of
Bacon, Turkey and Fowls, chiefly boiled. Rump, Sirloin,
and Ribs of Beef roasted. Leg, Saddle, and other roast
Mutton. Roast Fillet, Loin, Neck, Breast, and Shoul-
der of Veal. Legs of Lamb. Loin. Fore- Quarter.
Chine. LatnbVhead and Mince. Mutton stuffed and
346 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
roasted. Steaks, variously prepared. Ragouts and
Fricassees. Meat Pies raised, and in Dishes. Patties
of Meat, Fish, and Fowl. Stewed Pigeons. Venison.
Leg of Pork. Chine, Loin, Sparerib, Rabbits. Hare.
I uddings, boiled and baked. "V egetables, boiled and
stewed. Calf’s Head different ways. Pig’s Feet and Ears
different ways. In large Dinners, two Soups and two
dishes of Fish.
Things for second Courses.— Birds and Game of all
sorts. Shell-fish, cold and potted. Collared and Pot-
ted Fish. Pickled ditto. Potted Birds. Ribs of Lamb
roasted. Brawn. V egetables, stewed or in sauce. French
Beans. Peas. Asparagus. Cauliflower. Fricassee.
Pickled Oysters. Spinach, and Artichoke bottoms.
Stewed Celery. Sea Cale. Fruit Tarts. Preserved-
Fmit Tourts. Pippins stewed. Cheesecakes, various
sorts. All the list of Sweet Dishes, of which abundance
are given from page 200 to 22 5, with directions for pre-
paring them, such as Cream, Jellies, and all the finer
sorts of Puddings, Mince Pies, &c. Omlet. Macaroni.
Oysters in Scallops, stewed or pickled.
Having thus named the sort of things used for the
two courses, the reader will think of many others. For
removes of Soup and Fish, one or two joints of Meat
or Fowl are served; and for one small course, the articles
suited to the second must make a part. Where Vr ege-
tables and Fowls, & c. are twice dressed, they add°to
the appearance of the table the first time ; three sweet
things may form the second appearance without greater
expense.
I he Bills of Fare which have been given from page
33d to 345, may be modified at discretion.
In some houses, one dish at a time is sent up with the
vegetables or sauces proper to it, and this in succession
hot and hot. In others, a course of Soups and Fish;
then Meats and boiled Fowls, Turkey, &c. Made'
GENERAL REMARKS ON DINNERS. 347
Dishes and Game follow ; and lastly, Sweet Dishes:
but these are not the common modes.
It is worthy observation here, that common cooks do
not think of sending up such articles as are in the house,
unless ordered ; though by so doing the addition of a
collared or pickled tiring, some Fritters, fried Patties,
or quick-made Dumplings, would be useful when there
happen to be accidental visitors : and at all times it is
right to better the appearance of the table rather than let
things spoil below, by which the expense of a family is
more increased than can be easily imagined. V egetables
are put on the side table at large dinners, as likewise
sauces, and servants bring them round: but some incon-
veniences attend this plan; and, when there are not
many to wait, delay is occasioned, besides that by awk-
wardness the clothes of the company may be spoiled.
If the table is of a due size, the articles alluded to will
not fill it too much.
SUPPERS.
Hot suppers are not much in use where people dine
very late. When required, the top and bottom, or
either, may be Game. Fowls. Rabbit. Boiled Fish,
such as Soles, Mackerel. Oysters stewed or scalloped.
French Beans. Cauliflower, or J erusalem Artichokes,
in white Sauce. Brocoli with Eggs. Stewed Spinach
and ditto. Sweetbreads. Small Birds. Mushrooms.
Potatoes. Scallop, &c. Cutlets. Roast Onions. Sai-
magundy. Buttered Eggs on Toast. Cold Neat s
Tongue. Ham. Collared things. Hunter’s Beef sliced.
Rusks buttered, with Anchovies on. Grated Hung
Beef with butter, with or without Rusks. Grated
Cheese round, and Butter dressed in the middle of a
plate. Radishes ditto. Custards in glasses with Sip-
pets. Oysters cold or pickled. Potted Meats. Fish.
Birds. Cheese, &c. Good plain Cake sliced. Pies
of Birds or Fruit. Crabs. Lobsters. Prawns. Cray-
348 DOMESTIC COOKERY.
fish. Any of the list of sweet things. Fruits. A Sand-
wich set with any of the above articles, placed a little
distance from each other, on the table, looks well, with-
out the tray, if preferred.
The lighter the things the better they appear, and
glass intei'mixed has the best effect. Jellies, different
coloured things, and flowers, add to the beauty of the
table. An elegant supper may be served at a small ex-
pense by those who know how to make trifles that are
in the house form the greatest part of the meal.
Note. — Any of the following things may be served
as a relish, with the cheese, after dinner. Baked or
pickled Fish done high. Dutch pickled Herring.
Sardinias, which eat like Anchovy, but are larger. An-
chovies. Potted Char. Ditto Lampreys. Potted Birds
made high. Caviare and Sippets of Toast. Salad.
Radishes. French Pie. Cold Butter. Potted Cheese.
Anchovy Toast, &c. Before serving a Dutch Herring,
it is usual to cut to the bones without dividing, at the
distance of two inches from head to tail, before served.
FINIS.
H.& J. Pi i. lans, Printers, Edinburgh.
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